Upper Control Arm Removal

[Recap]

So I'm in the process of doing the b body big brake and spindle upgrade and I'm pretty much ready to remove everything except the lower control arm.  Any suggestions as to the best approach to removing the upper cross shaft nuts.  I am planning to remove spindle and upper control arm together. I did remove the caliper and rotor to reduce the weight of the assembly.  Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

[Steve Wood]

Wrench or socket

[Recap]

Very little room on the driver's side to remove them from the top.  Is it best to work them from underneath the car?  Passengers side looks a lot more accessible.  Between the AC and brake lines, not much wiggle room on the driver's side.  Everything else is off.  Didn't have any 18mm wrenches at my shop, so that's the only thing left to do. Cotter pins were a pain. Was unable to get any of them out the normal way!

[Steve Wood]

I hate damned cotter pins:011:

I don't recall which way I went.  I recall it was slow going.  Seems like I went over the top and thru the fender well.  I thought they were a SAE size, but, it's been about ten years since I last did them.  

I have to make a quick run to the store.  When I come back, I will see what, if anything, fits

[Steve Wood]

Looks like the nuts are either 15/16" or 24mm.

Drivers side, looks like the front nut would be easiest from the top...probably help to swing the PS reservoir out of the way.  Back nut looks like easiest would be from under the wheel well.  

Easiest does not really mean easy, tho LOL

[Recap]

Thanks for the input Steve.  Was hoping there was some easier way I was overlooking!  Wishful thinking on my part.  Oh well. 

[TexasT]

I've always gone through the wheel well to split the ball joints then under the hood to get the cross shaft fasteners. Then the upper arm can come out the wheel well. Just make sure you have the vehicle supported well. Wrastlin it around and such you don't want it falling. Pay attention to those shims and how many are front n back. Not that it will be correct for the new arms but it will give something to work with other than starting from scratch . 

[Recap]

Success.  What a pain!  Ended up having to remove the upper end of the downpipe on the passenger side to get the control arm off.  The driver's side was a complete pain.  Good suggestion regarding the power steering fluid reservoir Steve. 

Where can I get replacement upper control arm bolts?  The driver's side bolts came out easily after the nuts were off.  The serrated portion seems to have rusted away so there is no grip.  Did some searching on the internet with out any success. Any thoughts as to where I might try?  Going to try the local stealership in the morning.

[Steve Wood]

I would check locally for Dorman replacements but

various places sell them such as Summit, etc.   I did not look these up specifically for a Buick.  I just saw they fit some old GM stuff.  In other words, go thru the menu til you get there instead of using google like me LOL

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/opg-ch25634?rrec=true

[Recap]

Yeah, I've been looking for hours.  They are still available from GM but you have to order them.  Just found them at UMI Performance but no serations.  Checked the Dorman website and they don't have them.  So I guess those are my options.  The summit racing ones don't list the later models as being applicable.  Wish they did work as Summit is 20 minutes down the road.  If I have to wait for parts I might have to take the lowers off and put in a new ball joint and poly bushings!  Thanks for the lead though. 

[Steve Wood]

Personally, I have never been happy with poly bushings

[TexasT]

I've never put poly in. I just don't want the squeaky rough ride. New rubber is pretty firm. As far as the bolts go, can you use wheel studs? Dorman has a plethorah of lengths, diameters and thread pitches. 

[Recap]

Had some success yesterday.  I was able to get 12mm bolts in grade 10.9 at the hardware store.  They are not splined, but on the driver's side that may actually work better.  You can still get them thru GM but my local dealer quoted me a week to 10 days to get them.  So hopefully theses will work, or I can always use the original ones.  Off to start the reassembly process.  Here goes nothing! Also, thanks for the input on the poly bushings.  Guess I'll leave the rubber ones in as they still look ok. Up

[Steve Wood]

Might put a little Locktite on them for a bit better grip

[Recap]

Ended up using the bolts I bought at the hardware store on the driver's side.  Easier to tighten up than trying to wrench on the nuts.  Just had a friend hold the nuts I cranked on the bolt head from the wheel well.  All back together now for the most part.  Just rotors, calipers, and brake hoses to go.  The end is near!