Whatta ya know...

[good2win22]

Decided to disconnect the analog tach and boost guage on the factory dash. At idle, it displayed 3k on the tach and at 3lbs of boost. Kind of annoying. Got it all apart, fished for the connector, disconnected and then back together.  Turn the key and the alky pump is spraying.... Turn the key off. Turn the key on again and the alky pump is spraying...  Disassembled again, fished the connector out and reconnected the factory tach and boost guage. Reassembled, turn the key and the pump is off like it's supposed to be.  I guess I'll have to live with it till I figure out what's going on with the circuit.

[earlbrown]

Power for the MAP sensor goes through the boost/tach module.   I removed mine a few years ago to get it rebuilt and put a piece of black construction paper in it's place.  When I did my powerlogger/scanmaster couldn't log boost anymore.

If you do the jumper wire thing on Steve's site that should allow you to unplug it again and have the alky work.

[good2win22]

Power for the MAP sensor goes through the boost/tach module.   I removed mine a few years ago to get it rebuilt and put a piece of black construction paper in it's place.  When I did my powerlogger/scanmaster couldn't log boost anymore.

If you do the jumper wire thing on Steve's site that should allow you to unplug it again and have the alky work.

That's just it Earl.  I have the map hot wired at the ECM and the signal is spliced into the green wire then goes to the PL block. Still a bit confused but I'll figure it out.

[earlbrown]

That is odd.   Sounds easy enough to figure out though.  Measure input voltage and output voltage on the MAP.  Unplug the boost/tach (and the alky pump) and measure again.

  Might want to verify the ground is still grounded too..  The wiring diagram doesn't show a redundant ground (that doesn't mean there isn't one though)

[Steve Wood]

Like he said...this should be easy.  Look for 5 volts on the gray wire as a starter