powerlogging!

[aminga]

This is what I do. I have the GAUGE panel up. Just before I get waved in I hit MONITOR. If PL is working correctly you'll see the gauges moving. When I get waved in then I hit RECORD. When I finish the run I stop on the return road and save the run. I overwrite it and type in the date and run number.

Actually you can set it up to trigger at TPS volts.  Mine is set to 3.5 Volts and record for 10 seconds minimum.

[aminga]

A couple of things to remember here.

Boost is only 17 PSI you almost don't need alky (especially with 94 octane)

It's real knock, not something loose.  Since it's wicked fat it may be rich knock.  I might back the alky down a little. At 18 PSI if you back the timing down you don't need much alky at all

 If you notice it happens right as you mat the gas.

Airflow seems low for 10PSI but the MAF looks responsive.

Seems like it's struggling to get RPM too, also a sign of it being rich.

[larrym]

So been doing some mucking about. Ran the ground from my wide band to the computer case smartened that up the readings on the gauge and the PL pretty much mirror each other. Load tested the alternator it appears fine. While testing my buddy said the power might be my problem. Talked to my other buddy next door the marine electrician "no problem I'll set you up"   

2 gauge lol over engineering at its best!

[Scoobum]

Nothin' better than overkill! Lol! I swapped out both neg and pos battery cables from John at Caspers. I figured they'd have a shitload of resistance built up in them from 87.

[Steve Wood]

My stock cable on the GN developed a hot spot in it about a foot from the battery...and a big voltage drop as a result...I did not cut the cable open to see if there was a connection at that point...should have.

[Scoobum]

I cut open the negative cable. It was awful brittle. Keeping the electronics in these cars fresh pays dividends.