Author Topic: I was wrong but now we are getting somewhere!  (Read 36100 times)

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Offline PacecarTA

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #15 on: August 17 2013, 11:29:33 AM »
either im confused or you are full of crap or dont have a clue
you start off...
 
"this stuff destroyed my car. The engine is toast needs a rebuild."

but then you just posted
The funny thing is my car still drives perfectly flawless and doesn't make any noise when load is on the car.
 

so what is destroyed that it needs a rebuild that you say was caused by the oil ??
Paul   Magnabuick.com ..NJ rep
86GN pump gas 93/alky 109, iron heads, stock mains, no girdle  9.72 @139
best 1/8 6.13 @ 112 ,best mph 144
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSKzv7ej7Cc
87 GN TTop 109 ,93/alky , 9.82 @ 139 20.6psi , best 1/8th 6.18@113.2
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #16 on: August 17 2013, 11:50:10 AM »
pan is full of metal
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Offline YGspider

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #17 on: August 17 2013, 11:51:32 AM »
I don't know do I look like a machinist? My point being is after the oil change the car started to act up.. Maybe it was a rookie mistake on my behalf of not disconnecting the red wire and cranking it a few times.. But live and learn I guess. Will see in the upcoming months once the rebuild is under way what happen.
I don't have the tools to rip into the car or the clearance in my garage as of now so I'm going to have to wait. Rest be assured this issue will get solved one way or another.
 
 
Stratman: Is it even running?

Offline motorhead

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #18 on: August 17 2013, 12:34:56 PM »
Come on dude you can't possibly be blaming the oil.  It sounds more like user error here; either yours, the previous owner's or the engine builder... or a combination of all three.

Your best bet, value for money, is to buy David's old shortblock off of Mac.  I can have my brother check it out for you if you want as he is friends with Mac, and knows his shit.

Or even better flip that thing, cut your losses, and buy my car. ;)

PS. You can fill the oil filter about 2/3s full and cut down on your "prime time" with a dry unit.
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Offline PacecarTA

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #19 on: August 17 2013, 12:47:07 PM »
never install a dry filte.r
fill it to the top and let it soak in then fill to top again and repeat until it wont take anymore.
then spin it on


copper is usually  bearings  but could also have gold sparkle from copper tec gasket spray used on head gaskets

could have wiped bearings on a dry start up or over rich tune (cylinder wash down and oil dilution)
or from poor assembly clearances , rough cut on crank thrust surface, or converter taking out thrust bearing
 
did the old oil smell like fuel
what converter are you running ?


if you have a roller cam with morel lifters , morel doesn't reccomend using 20-50 due to their tight clearances on the lifter components
Paul   Magnabuick.com ..NJ rep
86GN pump gas 93/alky 109, iron heads, stock mains, no girdle  9.72 @139
best 1/8 6.13 @ 112 ,best mph 144
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSKzv7ej7Cc
87 GN TTop 109 ,93/alky , 9.82 @ 139 20.6psi , best 1/8th 6.18@113.2
87 GnX'd 
87 GN TTop..stock as can b

Offline YGspider

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #20 on: August 17 2013, 01:08:25 PM »
I did fill the filter with oil but I didn't disconnect the red wire. I cant see that being a completely dry start as oil has just ran down the whole motor into the pan? I've done millions of oil changes now on my dads trucks and cars and never once have we primed the filters by cranking the motor a few times. As for the motor I'm going to just take my time and rebuild with all the parts I want.. no more guessing.  ARP studs all around and a full roller motor is the goal... Will see what happens. I just wish I could have drove the car for a few years before something this stupid had to happen. And for gods sake at least be able to get on the Gas and have some fun and not worry every two seconds because the guys who built this car did a terrible job...  Time to rewire the whole car and get it back to how it should be.
I'm not going to sell it. That would be a huge waste of cash.
 
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Offline YGspider

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #21 on: August 17 2013, 01:09:57 PM »
never install a dry filte.r
fill it to the top and let it soak in then fill to top again and repeat until it wont take anymore.
then spin it on


copper is usually  bearings  but could also have gold sparkle from copper tec gasket spray used on head gaskets

could have wiped bearings on a dry start up or over rich tune (cylinder wash down and oil dilution)
or from poor assembly clearances , rough cut on crank thrust surface, or converter taking out thrust bearing
 
did the old oil smell like fuel
what converter are you running ?


if you have a roller cam with morel lifters , morel doesn't reccomend using 20-50 due to their tight clearances on the lifter components

Stock converter and yes the car had a fuel smell but it wasn't rich the car had leaned out plugs. Also the cats where plugged solid.
Stratman: Is it even running?

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #22 on: August 17 2013, 02:15:04 PM »
there is no need to disconnect the wire...just fill the filter and crank it up.  Should have oil pressure by the time you look at the gauge.

From the sound of it, you bought the wrong car and it went downhill from there.

Make sure that whoever rebuilds the engine has built Buicks and understands that they use Buick clearances and not Chevy clearances.

You told us before that the o2s were high and blms were high which does not make sense because high blms tell us that the computer is adding fuel to make up for a lean  condition while high O2s tell us that the car is rich and should be telling the computer to remove fuel.

You say the converter was plugged solid and that would make it run rich.

In the end, you are new and don't know anything about the cars in general and you don't know anything about this car in particular or what, or who did what to it.  Sounds pretty much like a cluster F to me.  Hopefully you will find someone experienced building buicks to do the engine and someone experienced with the cars to straighten out all the other problems with the car before you start driving it.

I suspect it would be much cheaper to find a good engine to buy than have this one rebuilt but I guess we shall find out sometime down the line.

These cars can be quite reliable to drive but one has to do his part which includes learning how they work and how to know when something is wrong as well as not abusing them beyond their intended limits.
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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

Offline stratman

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #23 on: August 17 2013, 02:32:23 PM »
myself i would turn the radio up a little louder and drive the damn car and take the car to someone who can figure out your 02 and blms for you.lots of guys out there willing to help you.my jeep had a terrible knock to it and i got another100000k ms before it blew.on another note you should never start a car with a dry oil filter and especially any engine with a turbo unless you like to hear knock knock knock at start up.

Offline YGspider

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #24 on: August 17 2013, 03:00:07 PM »
there is no need to disconnect the wire...just fill the filter and crank it up.  Should have oil pressure by the time you look at the gauge.

From the sound of it, you bought the wrong car and it went downhill from there.

Make sure that whoever rebuilds the engine has built Buicks and understands that they use Buick clearances and not Chevy clearances.

You told us before that the o2s were high and blms were high which does not make sense because high blms tell us that the computer is adding fuel to make up for a lean  condition while high O2s tell us that the car is rich and should be telling the computer to remove fuel.

You say the converter was plugged solid and that would make it run rich.

In the end, you are new and don't know anything about the cars in general and you don't know anything about this car in particular or what, or who did what to it.  Sounds pretty much like a cluster F to me.  Hopefully you will find someone experienced building buicks to do the engine and someone experienced with the cars to straighten out all the other problems with the car before you start driving it.

I suspect it would be much cheaper to find a good engine to buy than have this one rebuilt but I guess we shall find out sometime down the line.

These cars can be quite reliable to drive but one has to do his part which includes learning how they work and how to know when something is wrong as well as not abusing them beyond their intended limits.

Sorry low O2 I put the wrong word in there High BLMS with LOW o2's my apologies. Also I've done nothing but research after I got this car.. hell I didn't even know how the internals worked on a engine now I cant understand and communicate with you guys on engine internals I knew nothing off last year. I think this project will not only eat up some of my money but will be a very valuable learning tool for me and a big step towards becoming a better trades men. You got to remember I'm 20 years old and this is my second car. And If I do say I'm pretty happy with what I've learnt. The only thing burning me up is how this happened.
Maybe I'm overlooking something maybe there is something easy to fix.. I can only hope and bring the car to someone who can really tell me what's wrong.     
« Last Edit: August 17 2013, 03:07:43 PM by YGspider »
Stratman: Is it even running?

Offline SuperSix

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #25 on: August 17 2013, 03:53:04 PM »
Get back to basics before you start chasing non-issues.

Get good base oil pressure readings. (Hot cold, idle, WOT, etc)
Check your overall tune(FP, TPS settings, vacuum lines, etc)

If there's that much bearing material in the oil, you should have oil pressure issues, especially when hot and heat soaked. If it's below 10psi or so, then start chasing what caused it in the first place.
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #26 on: August 17 2013, 03:57:48 PM »
The car was not being enough fuel then. No telling what damage had been done before you got it.  The more you drive it, the more it will cost to fix it. Toss a rod and the cost will be many times what it is at the moment. Park it. Anyone can learn. We were all new once
 
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Offline Scoobum

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #27 on: August 17 2013, 11:59:19 PM »
Your o2s and blms are in conflict from what your reported above.  Make sure that someone that understands these cars sorts thing out before you take it out after the engine is fixed

Steve I offered to go to his house and sort the car out free of charge when he purchased it...but he decided he'd rather struggle. I cranked out another 120 mph pass last nite with this engine I've been beating on for 3 years. Good thing I don't know what I'm doing.
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Offline 278CIKILLER

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #28 on: August 18 2013, 12:15:13 AM »
Rest a easy guys, I went to his house and look at the car and heard it run and there nothing wrong he has a few noisy lifters that you cant really hear them, Bill told him he might have 36lb injectors but no there red strip and there 38lb and he has a TT chip for 009. so there you go also the clacking at the front is his belt tensioner. End of report. 

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: VR1-20/50
« Reply #29 on: August 18 2013, 12:29:39 AM »
Your o2s and blms are in conflict from what your reported above.  Make sure that someone that understands these cars sorts thing out before you take it out after the engine is fixed

Steve I offered to go to his house and sort the car out free of charge when he purchased it...but he decided he'd rather struggle. I cranked out another 120 mph pass last nite with this engine I've been beating on for 3 years. Good thing I don't know what I'm doing.

well, they say ignorance is bliss so you must be pretty happy!
Steve Wood

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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

 

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