I've searched

[phil_long]

That's a good point.  Had I not experienced that amazing feel of the boost coming on that quick i could care less.  Lol.  As far as threaded wastegate rod or stock, im going to assume stock.  Where would the threads be located? Would they be visible before adjusting anything?  And, you are right. Get the car running well 1st. Valve springs and motor mount next.  Thanks Earl.

[earlbrown]

I think it was the amount of boost that caused the big grin not the rate of boost rise over time.

Look where the wastegate rods hooks to the arm on the turbo. If it's threaded it'll have a female end (giggity) with a jam nut (giggity) locking it in place.  Normally you can see threads on the rod itself if it's adjustable. 

[phil_long]

Ah. Ok.  I'll check

[gnonyx]

Hi Phil, If you look at the picture one is non-adjustment and the other one is homemade adjustable WG rod.

[phil_long]

So this part actually turns when lenghtening or shortening the rod?

[Steve Wood]

remove the clip that holds it onto the wastegate arm and then shorten it or lengthen it by screwing the end in or out of the turnbuckle.... I use a small alligator clamp instead of the frigging c clip that came on it from the factory...much easier to deal with

[earlbrown]

So this part actually turns when lenghtening or shortening the rod?

It would if you had an adjustable wastegate.  Looks like you get to do some custom fabbing or just order an adjustable unit. (hey look, I signed off on buying an upgrade part!)


That being said, have you replaced all the rubber vac lines and done a spring cleaning?! 

[phil_long]

Spring cleaning yes, vac lines yes, but I'm going to re-do them again when I get that vacuum block. Some of the lines i used could be smaller, but due to zip ties, they're "safe." 

[gnonyx]

Phil, Just be careful when removing the c-clip that holds the WG arm to the little stud. As I try to remove the c-clip from the little stud, it broke off from the lever to which was spot welded. As you can see in the photo I had to drill a hole in the turbo lever arm, and also drill into the center of the little stud. I drill upside down to the turbo lever arm as I didn't want to remove the whole turbo for one hole. Assembled with red threaded locktite, 10/32 S/S screw. The next picture shows all is repaired, WG rod modified and all put together.

[phil_long]

Pretty crafty.  I hope i dont run into this issue. Lol.

[phil_long]

I think after the valve springs, billet vacuum block, and new vacuum hoses, im gonna save up for an external WG setup.  I have this Alky kit laying around that I want to try, and I want to control boost from within the cockpit of my jet.

[Steve Wood]

so you really want to complicate things.

You said the other day that you understood that the more air you add by increasing boost, the more fuel you had to add to the chip.

Therefore you understand that every time you change the boost from the cockpit, that you will have to reprogram the chip to get the fuel needed for the new boost level.

[phil_long]

Lol. Not complicate, but demonstrate my understanding by getting my car sound and running strong the way it is before any major upgrades. The way that I would do it, if I had the oppurtunity, would be raise the FP to the future amount of boost I would want to run after getting the car dialed in.  As far as the Alky is concerned, I'd just have you or Earl come to Saint Louis and tune. 

[phil_long]

Or Ed. 

[Steve Wood]

why do you want to raise the fuel pressure?  that is why god invented programmable chips!

 hell, why do you want to change the boost levels?

I think it is time to leave you with Earl or Ed