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[Scoobum]

Manual controller is available from RJC.

[Steve Wood]

Read the instructions.. ..

set the fuel pressure to 43 psi with the hose off the regulator.  Normally that is close enuf.  Put the hose back on the regulator.

Warm the car up and with the boost at 16-17 psi in your case, make a third gear run with the shifter in 3rd as fast as you can go...close to 100 mph would be nice if possible, but whatever you can do.... adjust the wot fueling up or down to get the o2s at the end of your run close to 790-800 on the O2s.  (if the numbers are higher than that by very much, drop the number from 128 to 125.  Make another run, the numbers should be lower.  If they still need to come down, take 2-3 out so you are 123-122.  Try again.  If the numbers were lower than 790-800, then increase from 128 to 131 to add fuel and try again and so on.

Now, try low gear.  Again with a hot engine, watch the numbers in low...or get someone else to watch them.  If they are above 800-810, then go down in the first gear setting from 128 to 125 and run it...if still high, pull another three numbers until you get it down around 800


before adjusting the chip, set the sm to the AF's and make sure those numbers are 5-6 at idle and go up to at least 245 at wot throttle as the rpms come up-think you have a translator so that should be working write.

[Scoobum]

Phil if you had Eric burn your chip for your exact combination... then the 02's are gonna be higher than 810-820 in 1st. I'm seeing them upwards of 850. Here's some real world numbers to get my car to run the 7.1 class.
 
1st gear fuel-115
1st gear timing-134
3rd gear fuel-122
3rd gear timing-132
 
Boost pressure-22
 
Phil...don't play with the timing...leave it alone.
 

[daveismissing]

I seem to recall the solenoid off one of the GM Diesels works?

[earlbrown]

...or simply run a hose from the actuator to the compressor housing and shorten the wastegate rod to set the boost as Brad mentioned above....tuner style...

the hose that connects to the wastegate...th o ught I said that

guess the translation did not come out right 

[phil_long]

Earl, you def said that. It just seems as if it would take "longer" shortening the rod, get back in the car, drive to see where it's at, lenghten it, drive the car, see where it's at, etc.  It seems like a long process seeing that im as "cautious" as i am.  I reset the chip tonight before going out to a bar, and i DEFINITELY had the car running too rich before.  I havent adjusted any settings, and the cars runs a lot better WOT(still having the same boost issues of course) but all in all, the numbers look more "normal."  Around 800-809 WOT in 1st gear. Seeing that the boost isn't locked in at 17 lbs, i figure that's the reason that the numbers look as well as they do.  Im sure at 17 lbs those numbers would appear more lean. Thanks for all the suggestions.  Now I just need instructions on adjusting the WG rod.  Thanks again

[earlbrown]

When running 'tuner style' the wastegate rod is the boost. period. When troubleshootin g systems that can cause the crank to fly out the bottom of the engine it's best to follow the KISS rule when possible.

Keep going up with boost (and fueling) until knock starts hinting around. Once you've found the boost level you car will put up with, back off a pound or so and lock it down. THEN add a working solenoid system and get your spool up time back.
 OR...   if your car knocks the tires loose all the time during spoolup just leave it tuner style.   (keep the solenoid plugged into the harness so you don't throw a code)

Think of it this way. ECM controlled boost has to start at the wastegate setting and go up from there. The computer can never set the boost lower than the wastegate rod setting.

I think the general rule of thumb is that one turn = @1# of boost.

[Steve Wood]

Phil...if the chip is burned for 17 psi, it should be set to deliver the correct amount of fuel for 17 psi as you got it other than for small changes to make it near perfect.

If the boost is changed to 12 psi, then it will take quite a bit less fuel  because you just cut back on the air going into the engine so then the car will be very rich unless you program the chip to take out enuf fuel to be right at 12 psi.  If you crank the boost back up to 17 psi, you will have to add fuel back into the chip via programming... you will not mess with the fuel pressure-just reprogram the chip

this is an example of what I meant when I mentioned learning how things work...

As far as throwing a code, stock chips will do that when the solenoid is disconnected, but, the TurboTweak chip has had that code deactivated.

[phil_long]

I understand how it works.  I'll leave everything as is for now until i get the other things sorted out(valve springs, motor mount) because I see KR when I shouldn't.  I'm chasing multiple issues right now.

[Steve Wood]

it will be a lot better when you sort out all the basic issues and then start tuning for better performance... .

[phil_long]

thanks

[phil_long]

http://rjcracing.com/product/boost-controller/
So, I've read this a million times, and it's pretty straight forward, but I think my understanding of the factory WG rod itself is where I'm getting confused.  What tool is needed to adjust it? Thanks in advance. The only wastegate I've seen in person is my cousin Charles external WG, and his controller is in the car next to the driver seat.

[phil_long]

Some words are possibly mispelled, and sentences dont make sense.  Like the statement at the top. "AS BOOST ENTERS IT IS THE PRESSURE IS blocked from reaching the actuator until a set adjustable pressure then it "pulses" letting boost presser through to the actuator to control boost. I just quoted this and put it in Caps lock. 

[phil_long]

Here's my understanding: this RJC piece is a replacement of the factory solenoid, and allows faster spool up due to the different design of "controlling" the boost level.  The "Y" piece is eliminated, and the actual "controlling" on the AMOUNT of boost that's ran is done by shortening and lengthining the WG rod.  This piece ISN"T mandatory, as I can just run it tuner style, but the spool up time will be a little slower.  Am I gathering this correctly?

[earlbrown]

I would get the car running extremely well before worrying about gimmicks. Anytime I'm troubleshootin g a system that giving me fits, the first thing I do it eliminate all the variables I can and get everything as basic as I can. Do you have a threaded wastegate rod or a stock one?

 The idea of faster spool time sounds nice on paper but if you're already blowing the tires away will it really help in the real world?