Newbie w. New GN

[Steve Wood]

that's progress.  Yep, I don't like it too hot, or too cold, but, I can manage hot when I am in the mood...

[bryes]

Well, I had a pretty good weekend as far as getting things done with the engine. I think I now pretty much have a complete long block now as I was able to install the timing cover, heads, oil pan, rockers / lifters and water pump. I am missing one of the rocker shaft bolts and since I had a bunch of parts on the living room floor, I can only hope that its disappearance and the vacuum cleaner making loud noises are purely coincidental.. .. because I think I emptied that bag    I still have to find a way to tighten the big bolt on the harmonic balancer, but other than that I think it's all assembled properly.

Below is the mill in its current state.

[Steve Wood]

Looking like an engine now!

[bryes]

Well once the weather cooperates I'll be able to make some more progress on this engine. If it is rainy or too windy I can't do any work because I have to have the shed door open,  and the last few weekends have seen their share of both.

Plus the other day as I was admiring my "expert" craftsmanship,  I noticed dangling from a nail ..... the dreaded oil slinger!     So since my last post the only progress that I have made is fixing that screw-up.

That being said, I have been thinking about how to install my exhaust headers and have been reading that some use header gaskets or copper rtv while others do not. Mine had gaskets on them, so I think that's the best route for me to take because they may have been needed in the first place. The fel-pro kit that I bought has them so I don't even have to spend any $$. Any opinions?

I am also planning on re-using as many of my old sensors as I can other than the o2, knock and fan switch, which I have already bought new. It seems like the cam sensor, map and crank sensor are also fairly problematic. Is there any way of testing these to insure that my used ones are OK? Anything else that should be tested before the motor goes in?


The intake is ready to go with the new fuel system, so as soon as I get a good weekend (I'll be out of town next weekend too), I'll be really close to being able to set the thing in.  I think it is time to start reading up on initially starting the engine and breaking in the cam. Does anyone know if there are any good threads / checklists?

If I can't find them out there, I'm going to start putting together some sort of checklist to do before I turn the key. It would be nice to leave as little to chance as I can.

As always thanks for any responses.

Bryes

[Steve Wood]

take the headers to a machine shop and have the flanges belt sanded flat....then they will seal no matter which route you take

it probably had gaskets on it because someone thought cars came from the factory that way

[bryes]

Thnks Steve, I'm going to check to see if the manifold surfaces are warped next weekend, if they are then I can straighten them out with an air file I bought copper gaskets from summit and I guess that I plan to use them either way unless there is a reason not to?


This weekend I was able to get the intake installed and worked on some other parts. I need to start thinking about putting the beast back into the car.

[earlbrown]

PLEASE cover up that oil cooler adapter with a bag and some tape!!!!!     Oh and an aerosol cap fits in the throttlebody perfect to seal it off. Put some tape over the exhaust ports too....     Better yet go ahead and put the manifolds in place.



Oh yeah, chunk those copper exhaust gaskets into the scrap metal pile. Dab a thing layer or orange RTV on the exhaust port flange and do the same on the header port flanges. Let it skin over and then dry for about 20 minutes. After that put the headers in place and run the fasteners down.  It'll also give you a chance to torque cycle the fasteners a few times before installing the engine.

Use that same "let the RTV dry method" on the crossover flange too. Make sure to run them down evenly and don't let the crossover touch the pan or the bell housing cover. Keep it nice and centered.

[bryes]

OK, I'll cover 'er up next time I'm out there! That Oil adapter was the last thing that I installed so there really wasn't much of a chance for anything to get in there. Everything always gets bagged when I'm not working on it or taking pictures to keep things clean.

If orange RTV is the way to go then that's what I'll do. There seems to be a whole bunch of different opinions on the best methods.


Speaking of the oil cooler adapter,  I'd like to buy some new o-rings for the oil cooler lines (those two small ones) that didn't come in my kit. Where would be the best place to get those?

[Steve Wood]

A thin coat of rtv.  Not an 1/8" bead.

Always nice to replace the flanges on a belt sander

[earlbrown]

I think you can get a small assortment of orings in the HELP! section of the fast food parts stores.  Just don't use the black one's with fuel.

[bryes]

The engine is together now, and except for replacing the vacuum hoses and some little stuff,  is ready to put back into the car. Thanks again to everyone for all of the help on this project... it has been a lot of fun. I can't believe it has been over a year now, nothing like moving at a glacial pace

I was able to verify the straightness of my exhaust manifolds with a straight edge, and sealed them with just the silicon as suggested. I must apologize in going against the advice of Earl in using a copper gasket between the exhaust and turbo though. If it leaks then at least it'l be an easy fix. I think it's likely that I'll be removing that turbo soon, so I won't have to clean silicon this way.

I did find some black o-rings at Autozone but the help section had a pack with probably 15  in it, only 1 looked like it was the right size. I brought in the old o-rings to match up with and fortunately they had a package of two behind the desk for only $1.60.

Next weekend I plan on finishing up the engine, then getting the car ready to put it back in. I have to clean the engine compartment and set up the gauges. At my pace it might take me a couple of weeks but as long as I am able to fire it up before summer, I'll be happy.

Also I am second guessing myself a little. I used  AC R44TS spark plugs and after reading it seems like cooler plugs are usually recommended. What do you guys think?

Thanks

Bryes

[Steve Wood]

43's or autolite 24's or NGK UR-5s which might be the best of the three from a quality stance.  be sure the gap is 0.035"

[earlbrown]

I was able to verify the straightness of my exhaust manifolds with a straight edge, and sealed them with just the silicon as suggested. I must apologize in going against the advice of Earl in using a copper gasket between the exhaust and turbo though. If it leaks then at least it'l be an easy fix. I think it's likely that I'll be removing that turbo soon, so I won't have to clean silicon this way.

It always takes less time to do it twice

You'll find the silicon is easy to clean off the exhaust on these cars. It basically gets the hell baked out of it and the 'sticky' gets done in.

[Steve Wood]

last few times, I have used a gasket because the mounting surface can get warped with time and sometimes will leak...talking about the mounting surface on the up pipe where the turbo sits....

[bryes]

That's the gasket I was referring to Steve, the one between the up-pipe and turbo flange.  I just used a copper gasket that I had bought before I knew Earl's thoughts on the idea

Awhile back I found a second stock turbo (luckily not too expensive) that was supposedly virgin. Well, as it turns out it isn't; so I had to go back to the original. Once I get the car running, I thought I might try my hand at rebuilding the second one... Thus the gasket idea.