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Messages - bryes
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166
« on: August 26 2012, 10:09:50 PM »
Thanks Steve, I'll file the top rings as close to 0.020" as I can without going under. Second rings I'll aim for 2 thou more.
That is strange that the vortex buick site lists end gap from 0.01" - 0.02", it's the same tolerance that my haynes manual has, and I believe it's for an NA. I just double checked 2 of the old rings I have, and they have gaps right around 0.032". This is why I was afraid of the 0.015"
My bores are only worn about 0.001 where I check the ring gap them, so I don't think that explains much. So I guess either my old rings wore this badly in 50k miles, the motor was re-ringed before (not much other evidence of this though), or the ring gap was greater in turbo motors than what was listed on the site...
Either way, I think I am going to shoot for 0.020 to be safe.
167
« on: August 26 2012, 08:55:23 PM »
I have a question about end gap of piston rings. I bought as set of sealed power E-434K piston rings. They are moly and called out for a turbo engine, but I think they may also be used as a premium ring for NA motors, which might be some of the issue I am having. I have read that they are not supposed to be file fit, and they came with no instructions on the proper gap in the packaging.
When installed into a cylinder it looks like the gap is at most 0.015". I am under the impression the minimum gap should be 0.020" for these motors. From what I read lots of people recommend anywhere from 0.020" to 0.027" gap for the top ring and generally about 0.002" greater gap in the secondary.
I've looked on the federal mogul site for the proper gap, but have found it to be especially useless, so I thought I'd see what everyone thinks or if anyone has a good source for this spec. I am scared to use the 0.015" gap as, especially since I noticed a factory ring was > 0.027".
Thanks in advance
168
« on: August 23 2012, 08:47:49 PM »
sometimes, you gotta do what you can afford to do at the moment.
I would try to find a ball hone (flex hone) and try to put a cross hatch on the walls-I don't see any sign of a cross hatch pattern from the pic
If you look really closely all the random hone marks, I can just barely make out one or two small sections of cross hatching!  I'd never believe it looking at the result, but I do remember attempting to follow some sort of pattern when honing. If I run into a ball hone I'll take another shot at it.
169
« on: August 22 2012, 10:52:51 PM »
In the above figure, I have marked the location of the major aluminum meltdown with a smear of dye. In that area I wire brushed off a maximum measured 0.0005” of cylinder. The vertical score marks that appear are very light and all but 2 cannot be finger nailed or felt. Of the two deeper 2 scratches that you can see in the picture, I can barely feel the one while the largest scratch I can feel and will just slightly grab with a finger nail. Although I have removed less than 0.0001”, I am hesitant to hone any further as my primary goal was to remove the high spots. Not sure how much more would be gained.
Everything in this bore now measures similar to the other bores. In general the wear is a maximum of 1 thou more than about 1.5” away from the head surfaces. Bores are generally nominal diameter when measured across the wrist pin centerline the whole way down.
I have used assembly dye on the cylinder, then inserted a piston ring and cycled it to wear away the dye. I did not find any high spots. The ring wears evenly from what I can tell.
I am temped to leave well enough alone with this cylinder. I think I’d have to really open up the bore in order to remove all traces of scoring and I really don’t think I’d gain much.
170
« on: August 22 2012, 10:31:07 PM »
Hello everyone again. I have finally made a decision on the path forward with the short block for now. As you may or may not know, after completing the intake and having the heads done, the short block is my final major step. And since I haven't found any good used blocks on the boards (within what I feel I can spend and such). So I have decided to move forward and reuse my existing motor. Unfortunately, having the engine bored out with new pistons is simply out of the question for me at this time. I am just going to have to be satisfied with what I can do myself for now.
That being said, I have done some more research on that bad cylinder and I believe it is possible to repair it. In fact, I have spoken with someone who had similar melt-down in a turbo motor and successfully repaired the bore himself. So using his method, I was able to get all the aluminum off the bores with a wire brush. Then I very lightly honed out the cylinder to remove any high spots I might have missed.
The resulting repair is below.
171
« on: August 14 2012, 10:35:03 PM »
Now that's hardcore! Very cool!
172
« on: August 13 2012, 10:28:51 PM »
Maybe when you have your new compressor fine tuned I'll send a set of valve covers for a cleanup & we can trade some parts for labour! 
I'm on board with that. I hope to work on that beast over labor day so we'll see what happens.
Looks great - good work!
Thanks, if the rest of the engine looks 1/2 as good as yours I'll be happy.
173
« on: August 13 2012, 08:24:37 PM »
Thanks Steve, I'll be sure to check on that and add those wire-ties. Actually I looked at it a second ago and one of the hoses (orig '87 so I shouldn't be surprised) was pretty well cracked. Better change that as well. Looks sharp Super Six  . I like that color combo. I'm halfway thinking about pin-striping the upper plenum and valve cover fins with red and yellow stripes  . After copious amounts of cleaning I actually had to sand-blast intake and upper-plenum with fine "black beauty" to remove all of the corrosion and over-spray. Fortunately I the was able to get away with just cleaning the throttle body. Most of the hardware I wired brushed and then rattle canned. I spent way too much time on that EGR, so eyesore or not it is staying! 
174
« on: August 12 2012, 10:55:40 PM »
Here's a little before and after of the intake. Coincidently or not, my wife decided to take a vacation as soon as she saw car parts in the dining room. So now as you can see from the pictures, I have also taken over the living room for my intake "assembly station". It's too hot outside down here in Georgia so desperate times call for desperate measures!
Next weekend I have to clean, inspect and paint the heads.
175
« on: July 30 2012, 07:11:41 PM »
I am a little concerned about that egr port, I haven't done a really thorough cleaning yet. I think between brushes and my binks 140b it will all come out, but we'll see.
176
« on: July 29 2012, 09:25:54 PM »
A little update on the car, although I haven't worked on it much down here. I picked up the heads in Ohio from Mason's Auto over 4th, and was unpleasantly presented a $300 bill. Although they were supposed to call me about any overages past the $120 that we initially agreed on (I made this clear multiple times), I was never notified other than valve seals which were not that expensive. $90 of the 180 overage was to mill the heads, (no idea about how far they were out if any ). The remainder of the charge was for the seals and to install and adjust the new valve springs. On inspection, there are metal filings in the heads, so I am still going to have to disassemble and clean them. Overall I am not happy with the work, if I had it to do over again I would do it differently. While I was up there I was able to abrasive blast the valve covers and intake. I tried unsuccessfully using baking powder first, eventually moving up to glass beads and finally fine sand to get the job done. I also started to blast the exhaust up to the catalytic converter, but ran out of time. Blasting the exhaust as rusty as it is will be a lot easier once I have my "new" compressor going with a pressure feed blaster next time I am up there. With it blasted I plan on finishing up the intake in the next few weeks. I have cleared out some space in our dining room, and I am going to be moving my engine assembly area inside where there is AC. Hopefully this will allow me to expedite this project  Time will only tell how this decision goes over with the better half  , but I think she will enjoy the extra time she'll be able to spend with me on the weekends 
177
« on: July 25 2012, 09:38:13 PM »
As you can see below, I like for my air compressor to have more cylinders than my car. Over the fourth I was able to finally pick up my "new" air compressor. It's a Gardener Denver with a Hercules motor. If you count the rings on that stump it will show how long it was setting at its previous location!
178
« on: June 16 2012, 10:44:58 PM »
Looks like I finally caught a break on this motor. I delivered the heads to Ohio to have them rebuilt at Mason's auto parts in Akron (have dealt with them for years). I heard from them this week that all of my valves inspected as good. As it appeared to me, the guides are all good and the vales and heads were straight and not cracked. So it looks like it will cost me just $120 to completed the heads.
Thanks to everyone again, especially Just a Six? (btw sorry for calling you Super Six in my previous post) for offering up those spare parts. I'll be going back to Ohio over the 4th, I plan on working on a few things then, so that my be my next update. Hopefully I can get a short block together at least for fall... we'll see.
179
« on: June 06 2012, 11:05:24 PM »
Thanks for the pictures earlbrown. Your stock valve looks very similar to the other (not pictured) valves I have inspected that were in good cylinders. The pictured valve had AL shards from the burnt piston, they did seem to clean up pretty well with the wire brush. Maybe I can use my exhaust valves after all.
180
« on: June 06 2012, 08:46:24 PM »
I tried to clean it as well as possible, attached are the pictures. I have read elsewhere that this should be a 2 piece inconel valve. Is there any way to tell for sure? To me it looks like a single piece, so where is the two pieces.
Also the entire valve attracts to a strong magnet, albeit significantly less than if it were carbon steel (a retrieval tool magnet won't pick it up).
Anyway let me know what you guys think now that it is cleaned.
Bryes
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