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Messages - kjhansen
16
« on: September 29 2022, 01:58:48 PM »
Here's a better picture of the alternator on my current TR
17
« on: September 29 2022, 01:54:48 PM »
The ones I've seen on other TR/GNs, and the one on my old '87 TR, had the metal fan blades and a wider gap between the metal parts of the body. This one has the plastic fan and a narrower gap. I'm just wondering if it's a different brand name. Attached is a picture of the one on my old TR
18
« on: September 28 2022, 07:26:42 PM »
Anybody recognize this alternator? It's on my car and it's making a bad-bearing noise. Can't order a bearing if I don't know what alternator I have. I can't find any part number or anything but a stenciled-in-white-paint number 001 on it. Of course I haven't taken it off yet, so it might have a number hidden on it somewhere.
Keith
19
« on: May 13 2022, 07:24:53 AM »
Just a note for those of you looking to upgrade your stock, old headlights. This isn't an ad. I just did this and really recommend it. I did some research on YouTube before I got the Philips LED-HL lights. They weren't "the best" but they were highly rated and cheaper than "the best." H4656LED for low beams, H4651LED for high beams. They are plug and play and make a huge difference. Not cheap, but less than many other options. I got them from Amazon, and chose the sellers selling for less option for three of them. One I had to buy at full price, because I bought up the cheap ones. Full price was $124.35 each. Maybe there will be more offered for less soon. The ones selling for less were perfectly good. In one case the box was damaged, in the other two cases the sellers didn't want them, no reason given. We have Amazon Prime, so no shipping. The cheaper ones were as low as $78 each. Easy installation, no extra wiring or trimming of plugs or anything . They fit right into the headlight buckets and they throw a normal pattern, i.e., they are not "projectors" that just throw light in big circles. The difference in light output is amazing. I just had to recommend these lights.
Keith
20
« on: May 06 2022, 09:34:32 AM »
It was the ECM wire. He'd disconnected it and forgotten to put it back on. I called him this morning but he'd figured it out already.
Thanks for your input.
Keith
21
« on: May 05 2022, 09:36:07 PM »
The subject line about covers it, but here's the backstory. The clutch on the A/C compressor locked up. I disconnected the pressure switch so i wouldn't accidently turn the A/C on while driving (not that I would, but just to be careful) and drove the car fine for a couple of weeks (good mechanics around here are booked out a couple of weeks). Took it to the mechanic and he disconnected the battery then removed the compressor and replaced it, reconnected the battery, then went to start it up to recharge the system and it wouldn't start. I'm not at the shop, as the shop is now closed and I just got his voice mail. Does anything come to mind? Like, could he have bumped and disconnected or broken a sensor? I've used this shop many times before and they are honest, competent and friendly--in fact, my daughter's neighbors. They have an excellent reputation. So I know they're not trying to scam me. I need to have the car running before Saturday. I've printed out the no-start article from here, but thought I'd see if anybody had any ideas.
Keith
22
« on: February 15 2022, 05:04:40 PM »
Turns out it's the oil pressure sending unit. HOWEVER, since the car has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge (a "Cobalt" by Autometer), I'll have to find someplace that sells the appropriate sending unit. Plus the power steering pump sprang a leak too, and now goes through a reservoir full of fluid in about 30 miles or less.
23
« on: February 13 2022, 09:43:14 AM »
That's what I feared.
24
« on: February 11 2022, 07:15:46 PM »
I replaced the PCV valve, which was unexpectedly difficult (the grommet part). This is the PCV valve that was in it and the new one I got from Kirban Performance. The old one, you could blow through it from either side. The new one, you couldn't. This might be part of my oil leak problem. Not sure yet.
25
« on: February 11 2022, 02:44:04 PM »
I watched one too. Time serts are the way to go, but... I dug through my bolt collection. I found a turbo-to-downpipe bolt that looks like one from my old car. Wrapped some thin wire around it and threaded it in. It went in tight and didn't pop the threads. For now I'll live with it. I'll check it often. I didn't put any threadlocker on it because heat breaks down threadlocker and there's plenty of heat there!
Thanks for all the input. I will probably do (or have somebody do--let them invest in the equipment) the time serts when the bolt comes loose again, which I'm sure it will.
26
« on: February 09 2022, 10:27:49 AM »
The saga continues. For those who don't remember, which is probably everybody, I ordered a new downpipe from RJC because my wastegate was corroded shut. Paid someone to, as it turned out, not put it in. He couldn't get it to fit. But when taking the old downpipe off, he broke some bolts. He used a drill and an easy-out to remove the broken bolt(s) and put in studs on all the holes. One of the holes, however, stripped the threads (top left hole). I don't want to take the car back to him, because he'll probably make it worse. I don't want to take the downpipe back off because it was a pain to get it back on. I don't want to just force a coarse thread bolt in because that's unpredictable--if it goes in crooked I'm screwed. I looked up fixing it with a helicoil, but that looks like I'd have to remove the downpipe and then remove the turbo. Any thoughts?
27
« on: February 08 2022, 09:30:17 AM »
I know it's been a long time, but here's an update. I sent my downpipe to RJC and they fixed it. The wastegate swivels freely when not attached to the boost control rod. I also ordered the boost controller from RJC. We'll see how that works when it gets here.
Keith
28
« on: December 22 2021, 05:10:37 PM »
Tightned up everything I could see and reach. We'll see what happens.
29
« on: December 19 2021, 01:10:05 PM »
Here's the flip side of the second picture in the second message. It appears to have a part number on the back, but a search didn't find it.
30
« on: December 19 2021, 12:45:55 PM »
The first picture in the second message is indeed an EGR Vacuum Solenoid. Steve got that one, thank you.
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