Author Topic: General 350 tech  (Read 12139 times)

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Offline Top Speed

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General 350 tech
« Reply #30 on: February 08 2007, 07:09:02 PM »
Well go for it then!  I assembled a 1978 Pontiac 400 and drove it for over 30,000 mi before I traded the TA for the T-Type.  The machine balanced and blueprinted everything and I did the final assembly.
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Offline 87natty

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General 350 tech
« Reply #31 on: February 08 2007, 09:46:14 PM »
Quote from: "Recklessrob @ Thu Feb 08, 2007 3:22 pm"

You should be able to get one with forged pistons for that price.


That's what I was thinking. And a cam and chain, etc, etc. Hell, I think I can get a long block done for that much from scratch.

www.enginekits .com > stroker kits

383SK
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Chevrolet 383ci Stroker Kit
$499.00
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Offline Dragonational

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Re: General 350 tech
« Reply #32 on: February 08 2007, 10:27:23 PM »
If you are wanting to build a 383 stroker then why get a short block?  Why not just get the 350 block bare and go from there?  Just curious.
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Offline Be4u

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General 350 tech
« Reply #33 on: February 08 2007, 11:28:15 PM »
We want to build the short block.

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Offline Be4u

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Re: General 350 tech
« Reply #34 on: February 16 2007, 07:40:44 PM »
Whats the difference?

CR1 5.7" Rods

&

CR3 Rods
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Offline 87natty

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General 350 tech
« Reply #35 on: February 16 2007, 09:39:13 PM »
Um... I THINK the CR3's are shotpeened and magnafluxed and come with ARP bolts. Call them to check it out. The price of the bolts alone is worth it to me.
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Offline 87natty

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General 350 tech
« Reply #36 on: February 16 2007, 10:11:27 PM »
Oh, and as far as heads go, I like iron, but that's just me. I'd go with a ported set of production heads or Dart's 'Iron Eagles'. I've heard a lot of good about Racing Head Service (RHS) 'ProAction' heads too. If I had to choose aluminum, I like the Air Flow Research (AFR) heads because they're all CNC'd and have a 3/4" deck on them, because I'm paranoid of heads warping and gaskets blowing.
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Offline Recklessrob

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Re: General 350 tech
« Reply #37 on: February 16 2007, 10:21:35 PM »
Chevys have alot more head bolts than a Buick, and therefore aren't as vunerable
to blowing head gaskets.
Rob

Offline 87natty

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General 350 tech
« Reply #38 on: February 16 2007, 10:38:59 PM »
*puts hands over ears* LALALALALLALAL AA!!

Excellent point though! Hmm... that totally made me re-think Chevy heads now.
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Offline Be4u

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General 350 tech
« Reply #39 on: February 16 2007, 11:01:31 PM »
what does this kit mean by "some machining required"?

http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=81
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Offline Recklessrob

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« Reply #40 on: February 16 2007, 11:14:57 PM »
Quote from: "Be4u @ Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:01 pm"
what does this kit mean by "some machining required"?

http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=81

I think that they're referring to boring the block, and clearancing for the stroker crank.
Rob

Offline Be4u

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General 350 tech
« Reply #41 on: February 17 2007, 03:12:44 AM »
Ok, if I call them I'll ask.

Now, if we buy this kit and decide to buy a block already machined, would we need to still bring the block and rot assy to a shop for further machining?
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Offline Recklessrob

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« Reply #42 on: February 17 2007, 06:33:38 PM »
Quote from: "Be4u @ Sat Feb 17, 2007 3:12 am"
Ok, if I call them I'll ask.

Now, if we buy this kit and decide to buy a block already machined, would we need to still bring the block and rot assy to a shop for further machining?

Don't buy a block thats already machined. Buy the kit first, and then have the block machined. The cylinders must be bored to the specs of the piston manufacturer.
Different pistons require a different piston to bore clearance.
Rob

Offline Be4u

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General 350 tech
« Reply #43 on: February 17 2007, 07:54:13 PM »
Ok, I'm about to draw up a plan.
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Offline straycat990

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General 350 tech
« Reply #44 on: March 01 2007, 11:56:51 AM »
clearencing the block is no big deal at all.  The main thing you have to do is remove some material from the pan rails. Also, in the past I have had to slightly modify (hit with a hammer) the oil pan to make room for the last crank throw. One other thing to consider too ... depending on the camshaft's profile and design of connecting rods you might find that you will have to file some material off the top of the rod bolt.  Good luck with the project.

 

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