Author Topic: Winter Maintenance  (Read 2460 times)

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Offline gnonyx

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Winter Maintenance
« on: February 10 2020, 09:20:50 PM »
I started by replacing the intermediate exhaust pipes, muffler, and reused the original tail pipes
Replaced the powermaster with complete vacuum system, and I'm still working on them. I started by bleeding all brakes by gravity just to remove the old dirty brake fluid. Installed Russell speed bleeder, Bench bleed the MC, fresh brake fluid, and started to bleed the pass. rear. Only to find out nothing was coming out of the bleeder, I removed the bleeder clean it a bit and still nothing.
The bad new is now I have to replace the wheel cylinder, and reading how it's connected with a clip instead of two bolts. I replace the exhaust elbow/downpipe donut was damaged from moving back and forth when installing the mufflers system.
I couldn't figure where the ticking noise was coming thinking it was the donut, being I removed the throttle body to replace the shaft seal, and replace the oxygen sensor. Here I thought I was going to use a 7/8" wrench and the damn thing was so loose I removed it by just a few turns. Now I know where the ticking noise was coming from, and why the BLM was reading over 148.
I don't know if this is a winter maintenance or a winter project.I made a smoke machine and that's is how I found a major vacuum leak coming from the throttle body shaft seals, as this is the second time I replaced them.
I did found out these seals are not a direct replacement, and the following statement explains: The only available shaft seals for Buick GN throttle bodys measure 10 X 17 X 5mm. These are .010" oversize. ANSI Standards for these seals specify a maximum press fit of .0011"  thousandths. For this reason you really need to enlarge the seal pockets to get a good seal there. Distorting the shaft seal will affect its function.
I used my Dremel with a sanding band and rotate in circle inside the throttle body shaft seal pockets, and it fit pretty good, but the true test is when I use the smoke machine.

The left oxygen sensor is what I removed and the right is Denso replacement, and the damaged exhaust elbow/downpipe donut
« Last Edit: February 10 2020, 09:35:38 PM by gnonyx »
87 GN T-Top, ScanMaster, hot-wire kit, Full Throttle chips w/ matching 60# injectors, adj. fuel pump, and triple pod gauges w/ AEM A/F gauge, oil pressure gauge, vac/boost gauge, Kenne Belle rear seat brace, upgraded tranny w/ Art Carr pan cover, and a pre-lube oil system.

Offline Scoobum

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #1 on: February 10 2020, 09:58:26 PM »
Some of the best money you'll ever spend on your GN. https://www.throttlebodys.com/
109 235 Cubic Inch Stock Stroke Balanced Rotating Assembly
Stock Crank
TRW .030 Pistons
Stock Rods
Stock Timing Chain/Gears
212/212 Flat Tappet Cam
JB Racing Heads
Stock Rockers
5.7 TT Race Chip
Built 2004R
AC 16930
6262 JB

6.72 at 104.67-25 PSI

I see slow people

Offline Scoobum

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #2 on: February 10 2020, 10:00:56 PM »
Removing the rear wheel cylinder is a 2 beer job. One to remove it...and one to install it.
109 235 Cubic Inch Stock Stroke Balanced Rotating Assembly
Stock Crank
TRW .030 Pistons
Stock Rods
Stock Timing Chain/Gears
212/212 Flat Tappet Cam
JB Racing Heads
Stock Rockers
5.7 TT Race Chip
Built 2004R
AC 16930
6262 JB

6.72 at 104.67-25 PSI

I see slow people

Offline TexasT

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Rich

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Offline gnonyx

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #4 on: February 10 2020, 10:56:00 PM »
Some of the best money you'll ever spend on your GN. https://www.throttlebodys.com/
I agreed with you, throttlebodys has great workmanship, but I like to challenge myself
87 GN T-Top, ScanMaster, hot-wire kit, Full Throttle chips w/ matching 60# injectors, adj. fuel pump, and triple pod gauges w/ AEM A/F gauge, oil pressure gauge, vac/boost gauge, Kenne Belle rear seat brace, upgraded tranny w/ Art Carr pan cover, and a pre-lube oil system.

Offline gnonyx

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #5 on: February 10 2020, 11:04:05 PM »
87 GN T-Top, ScanMaster, hot-wire kit, Full Throttle chips w/ matching 60# injectors, adj. fuel pump, and triple pod gauges w/ AEM A/F gauge, oil pressure gauge, vac/boost gauge, Kenne Belle rear seat brace, upgraded tranny w/ Art Carr pan cover, and a pre-lube oil system.

Offline 1KWIKSIX

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Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Removal
« Reply #6 on: February 13 2020, 07:01:46 AM »
I ordered this tool & Never could get mine to work properly!
Seems the tiny lil pointers didn't hold the snap ring tightly enough, so retired it and never used it.
Had to McGyver something that ended up working easily.
I used a large 1/2" drive socket that just covered the footprint of the snap ring and a large C clamp to compress the ring.
Worked like a charm.
I wouldn't waste my money on that tool, its sitting in my toolbox collecting dust now.
Just saying

Offline john robertson

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #7 on: February 13 2020, 09:07:47 AM »
I haven't replaced a wheel cylinder on a TR for a long time. Chances are, I never will again.  :(
86 EL CAMINO w/ GN drivetrain - NICE!  86 T-TYPE - NICER!  87 GN -- NICEST!

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #8 on: February 13 2020, 09:58:27 AM »
John, sounds like you have rear discs!  LOL

My experience is that 50% of the wheel cylinders one buys these days are faulty right out of the box so it's a good idea to buy three and hope to get two that actually work and not leak the first time you use the brakes.  I told this to my son last year but he did not listen.  He got to go back and buy a third one....
Steve Wood

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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

Offline gnonyx

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Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder Removal
« Reply #9 on: February 13 2020, 11:24:12 AM »
I ordered this tool & Never could get mine to work properly!
Seems the tiny lil pointers didn't hold the snap ring tightly enough, so retired it and never used it.
Had to McGyver something that ended up working easily.
I used a large 1/2" drive socket that just covered the footprint of the snap ring and a large C clamp to compress the ring.
Worked like a charm.
I wouldn't waste my money on that tool, its sitting in my toolbox collecting dust now.
Just saying


I searched the YouTube and found one guy in the same situation, but he used a 12-pt 1-1/8 and a large C-clamp
The largest socket I have is a 6-pt 1-1/16. I already ordered that tool, but I'm also going to get the 12-pt 1-1/8 socket as well.
87 GN T-Top, ScanMaster, hot-wire kit, Full Throttle chips w/ matching 60# injectors, adj. fuel pump, and triple pod gauges w/ AEM A/F gauge, oil pressure gauge, vac/boost gauge, Kenne Belle rear seat brace, upgraded tranny w/ Art Carr pan cover, and a pre-lube oil system.

Offline TexasT

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #10 on: February 13 2020, 12:22:40 PM »
Yu can never have too many tools. 
Rich

"Goals without actions are just dreams."

Offline earlbrown

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #11 on: February 13 2020, 12:26:47 PM »
I looked at that tool and couldn't figure out how it was supposed to work.    The way I do mine is to deburr the stamping on the ring with a needle file.   Then I wedge a metal box cutter between the axle flange and the cylinder. (the ergonomic tapered shape makes a nice wedge that holds it square).   Then I knock the ring titties with a hammer.


..and when it comes to china made cylinders, I think I'm the last person on Earth with a stash of S10 NOS Delco cylinders. :)
'87 GN - 4.2L SFI Turbocharged innercooled V6 - Chrome valve covers - supra pump - 14" K&N - 52mm throttlebody - rocker shaft supports -  1/2 intake spacer - TB coolant bypass - 3" ATR exhaust tip - Alum intake pipe - NOS timing cover - chip - relocated charcoal canister - CR42's - stock

Offline gnonyx

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #12 on: February 13 2020, 08:47:33 PM »
Finallygood news, after installing the Russell speed bleeder, I Bench bleed the MC
again, fresh brake fluid, and started to bleed the pass. rear. only to find out
the wheel cylinder started to bleed brake fluid. The only thing that could have
happen when I open the bleeder to clear a blockage in the bleeder itself, left
it open as I continue to replace all the brake lines to the wheels caliber, and
drum wheel brake cylinder. After replacement I reinstalled the MC, add brake
fluid, and fluid started to come out on the pass. rear. The good news the
vacuum brake system all went well.Whoever claimed to replace the oxygen sensor from ACDelco to Denso, thank you. The
ACDelco number was all over the place, first it was high 700 then it will go down
to 300 and then bounce back up again to 650. The Denso numbers is reading steady around 600-700Onceeverything was put together, I used the smoke machine to see if the throttle
body seals, and the throttle body vacuum block, were good to go.Theonly thing I have to do is to readjust the TPS, replace the shifter handle, and
readjust the shifter to lock into the park location. 
87 GN T-Top, ScanMaster, hot-wire kit, Full Throttle chips w/ matching 60# injectors, adj. fuel pump, and triple pod gauges w/ AEM A/F gauge, oil pressure gauge, vac/boost gauge, Kenne Belle rear seat brace, upgraded tranny w/ Art Carr pan cover, and a pre-lube oil system.

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #13 on: February 13 2020, 08:59:38 PM »
Progress!👍👍👍👍
Steve Wood

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com

A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

Offline gnonyx

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Re: Winter Maintenance
« Reply #14 on: February 14 2020, 09:43:18 AM »
Iforgot to mention for those would like to make your own smoke machine, and also
give credit to the individual on YouTube for showing this to us. After making
this smoke machine, I have leaks where the soap and water sprayer couldn’t find
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crc6CJ_ni2w&feature=emb_logo&ab_channel=BREW2L

87 GN T-Top, ScanMaster, hot-wire kit, Full Throttle chips w/ matching 60# injectors, adj. fuel pump, and triple pod gauges w/ AEM A/F gauge, oil pressure gauge, vac/boost gauge, Kenne Belle rear seat brace, upgraded tranny w/ Art Carr pan cover, and a pre-lube oil system.