Track results with my Limited

[TexasT]

If you can swing it  that hr bar is what I would do. But as Jason has proven the helwig bar is a nice piece too. I like the atr because it is only $160. And as we all know I'm cheap. I'd have the  blisteins as soon as I'm quick enough to score a used set. They sell fast on the big board.

[Steve Wood]

Lose the Lakewood shocks...

[gusszgs]

Lose the Lakewood shocks...

Why? You have a bad experience with these or sum'n? Or do think this is the cause of the rears unloading?


Never mind I went back and re-read your previous post.........I'll be all right  [size=78%] [/size]

[gusszgs]

Rich, that H&R bar is sweet.......bu t sour price 

[TexasT]

Buying quality you only have to cry once. From my reading you can pretty much ditch the front bar with that h&r bar. Also you might want to look at that arm relocation kit to adjust the instant center. $90 and some wrenching then some adjusting could be the ticket.

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/turbo-buick-performance/buick-suspension/sway-bar-air-bag/505-mic0005.html

[Steve Wood]

That kit is for the lower arms which is generally not so good as it's preferable to keep the lowers close to parallel to the ground for best results.  Dropping the front end of the upper arms tends to work better and does not provide as violent reaction where the back of the car rises and then unloads due to the i.c. being above the thrust line.  It can also make the braking very unstable on a street car because it eliminates the anti-dive built into the car to create stable braking at speed.

Again, tho, you have to decide if you want nine second parts on a eleven second car   If you do, go with Kevin Slaby's upper arm relocation kit that gives you much better geometry which is less likely to cause problems when used in spite of actual need.

[Steve Wood]

If you are really serious about drag racing suspension theory, buy a copy of Dave Morgan's "Door Slammers".  he goes into great detail about theory and its translation to the average guy.  Not cheap, but, he is not selling parts...just theory

[Steve Wood]

how much boost were you running?  112-113 is not very good for a 60 turbo, it seems to me.

[gusszgs]

Steve,Boost was 23-24 for the most part. I did see a short spike of a pound somewhere, but about 24 psi for the most part.. Car is exactly 3800lbs with me in. Timing was 2* above Erics default setting. So 25/23*

[Steve Wood]

Your mph suggests the car is running about 12.1.

I would show Brad a PL log so he can look at third gear and also compute slippage at the line.  I would expect more mph than that with that much boost.  I would like to know how many rpm it gained from the shift into third to the line.

Too much squat actually means the tires are being sucked up into the body and are subject to unloading as the hp comes up after launch.  It also means the hp is rotating the body when it should be pushing the car forward.  I am going to stick with losing the Lakewoods

[Steve Wood]

Also, I told you how to check air bag pressure above...but, go to a safe place to launch the car with no cops and some nice light concrete or asphalt...laun ch the car like you would at the track and see if it leaves two equal length stripes of rubber

[TexasT]

Also, I told you how to check air bag pressure above...but, go to a safe place to launch the car with no cops and some nice light concrete or asphalt...laun ch the car like you would at the track and see if it leaves two equal length stripes of rubber

X2 on the making test hits. Even the street outlaws do it. and it needs to be done to get it where you want it to be.

And those strips will help you know about the tire pressure. too much in the middle needs less pressure, to strips at the edges needs more tire pressure

[gusszgs]

K guys, pulled trigger on the Bilsteins
I'll get these on and report and improved 60' times

Steve, you have first dibs on my Lakewood 90/10's 😎

[Steve Wood]

LOL....on some cars, they probably work....but on our cars with the typical instant centers, they waste time rotating the car instead of allowing it to go forward immediately and delays the weight transfer to the tires at the same times. 

You need a stiffer rear bar while you are at it. That will help reduce your reliance on the air bag

[1 RARE T]

Silly question, is there a converter still in the exhaust?

Take all the air out of the bag and pull more first gear fuel. By the time your mixture catches up to the boost, it starts to make decent power. Before that, it's too rich / can't burn what's there. That's why boost comes up/blows the tires off a few feet out.

I used to run 115 mph on a little 49 and stock cam. Stock everything in the rear. 26' D/R. 11.8's all day.