control arm bushing question

[tb3]

as usual, assume I know nothing, lol!  (which isn't usually to far off)
 
What you idealy want is for  your control arm bushings to move nice and freely, as in, the bushing turns without any binding around the bolt shaft, correct?  that helps keep the rearend on the ground, making launches and turns more effective.

The stock rubber bushings probably work this way when new, if lubricated correctly when installed, but as age, use and grease goes away, that causes the stiff friction you get when you move the control arm, correct? 

so in a perfect upgraded world... I should go ahead and install poly rear control arm bushings with the grease fittings?

[SuperSix]

i don't think they should rotate freely, and some of the "binding" is part of the function.

[Charlief1]

Control arm bushings are not supposed to move at all. If they do then they're broken. They're molded to both the inner and outer sleeve and are held by the bolt clamping down on them. If you want rotating bushings they make replacements for them that do though. One of the newer ideas is only to have rotating bushings on the frame end of the UCA'a which cuts down on bind issues and helps the rear work better. Combine this with off set bushings in the axle ears and it will hook better. The axle bushings are available through Speedway motors as well as the arm bushings for the UCA's.

[Steve Wood]

As Charlie said, the rubber is glued on both sides so that it distorts with load.  If you look at the geometry, the control arms would bind because they are not on common centers (upper vs lower) and that is the knock against using all poly bushings.  I would suggest using poly on one end on so there is still some movement allowed without a hard bind.  Otherwise handling can be affected.

If you use poly, do try to find ones that have a zerk fitting for grease or you may find a squeak after a few miles that does not go away.  I personally prefer a higher durometer rubber over poly, but, most seem to think there is some magic with poly...shows the power of good advertising.

[Charlief1]

If you want more response out of the rear go to www.SpeedwayMotors.com and look up part numbers 916-34048, 916-34046, and 916-34047. These are the special bushings I am talking about that will help movement in the rear, but don't use them on the LCA's if you want the rear to stay in track. These will allow for more movement, which is good, but to much movement is not.

[motorhead]

I use poly-U at the frame side and roto-joints at the axle with the lowers; and stock rubber in the diff ears and heimjoints at the frame on the uppers.

With the springs/shocks/swaybar out I can articulate the suspension up and down (either side) by hand. Very fluid.

[tb3]

With the springs/shocks/swaybar out I can articulate the suspension up and down (either side) by hand. Very fluid.

which was kinda what I was thinking the ideal situation.

thanks for replys!  I have couple more questions cause I'm still not 100% clear on the wanting some "binding", part of it. 
I'll get back here in a couple days when I'm back home

[tb3]

was gonna get back to this thread, but I'm too aggrivated right now over my wasted control arm.   
I'm going to bed!