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Messages - ttipe
1
« on: January 16 2015, 11:43:01 PM »
I bought two hard parts from B.W. One was a turbo drain back pipe. The part I received did not look like his picture in the part description. The part was of no use. I came to the conclusion that what he sold to me had almost no engineering or common sense in the part whatsoever. The guy has a sad life.
2
« on: January 05 2015, 12:33:10 PM »
Perhaps you may know Tom Halka (rod & piston release)?
3
« on: December 30 2014, 05:51:25 PM »
Art Carr 16930 (3000 stall) always used Amsoil (nice condition), my combo has changed $150
Power Plate for stock plenum along with a cleaned up plenum (no chimney and matched to 62mm T/B) $50
ATR crossover pipe (2 piece) $60
Intercooler fan & adapter $ 35
Prices may be negotiable; Buyer pays the freight ; Thanks for looking
4
« on: December 30 2014, 05:38:33 PM »
I may know your Mom. I worked at the corner of Hamilton & St. Johns (Buick Engineering) in Flint.
5
« on: November 12 2014, 01:19:45 AM »
Happy Birthday Steve!
6
« on: February 24 2014, 08:59:14 PM »
Hemco being gently worked. Lower being equalized. I did play around with all these findings from Richard Clark and #2 needs flow improvement. Do I believe my findings. No Way! Too much variability with the work of others. The proper way is to balance the manifolds (upper & lower ) as a system. Lots of data and long story. For building a pump gas only car equalizing the intake is definately a plus.
7
« on: February 24 2014, 08:51:54 PM »
This kit has everything except the thread in port for map.It is plug and go. It has a 95lb flash on board. Hartline will provide support for low cost but buyer needs to call Holley. My work has kept me busy so I've had little time to play. I have an XFI ready so I'm not forced to sell. I'm looking at trades (I could use a proper rad rebuild with engine & trans coolers and appropriate fittings and a transmission upgrade). The harnesses are in great shape. Comes with NTK wide band and 3 bar map. I won't go lower than $750 (its in great shape) and buyer pays the freight.
Thanks for looking
8
« on: November 23 2013, 05:06:53 PM »
There is a 9 cfm gap between 2 & 4. If I can reduce that gap by 4/5 cfm that will make my day (based on their testing). I asked if they flowed it with the egr tower in/out. If the tower was in that could fix my concern.
9
« on: November 22 2013, 11:31:51 PM »
Interesting stuff going on. There is a post on the "other board" I believe in the general section titled "interesting numbers". Richard Clark was flowing different intake manifold / plenum combos. They were using some science in their approach. They flowed a Hemco and it did very well. I don't know whether you venture over there or not but the results are very interesting, not conclusive but some ideas are coming to light. I'll chime in tomorrow with specifics that I thought after you have had an opportunity to see for yourself.
10
« on: November 22 2013, 06:21:35 PM »
Ditto Ditto Ditto!!!! If you have a thumpin' little 6 without a turbo can you imagine what you have with a turbo!
11
« on: November 18 2013, 10:43:32 PM »
Where can I purchase a couple of sets of turbo mounting studs and nuts. Hopefully I don't have to order them from Limit or Precision.
12
« on: November 18 2013, 08:14:16 PM »
I'm also surprised at just how rarely people mention that head flow really means dick on a turbo engine. Granted, anything you do to decrease restriction is a net positive... but there's no need to spend $1000s when a simple 1/2 turn will do the same thing. (until the combo is maxxxed out)
True dat! Be advised that turning up the wick may increase air volume but probably reduces mass density (how tightly packed the air molecules are per unit of volume) since the air friction goes up so air temperature goes up. It's not just the amount of air you pump into the chamber but it's how easy you pump it in (larger unshrouded valves) and the efficiency of the burn process (chamber shape and position of spark plug within the chamber) and how much you reduce the tendency to knock (spark plug location within the cylinder & relational position to the valves).
13
« on: November 17 2013, 02:52:32 PM »
Please understand I AM NO EXPERT. I will drive my T Type into the pond when I start thinking like I'm some hot shot that knows all of this. My reason for an aluminum head is driven by being able to run pump gas on the street. I go crazy watching people follow the leader without considering the facts, not mine or someone else's opinion. I like it when folks go to other sites (Speed Talk, Yellow Bullet etc.) to snoop around and learn. Bring what you have learned back here to teach a nut case like me.
14
« on: November 16 2013, 08:25:52 PM »
I read this thread and had to hurl! 1) In the specific case of aluminum heads for LC2 the valves and seats are larger, and unshrouded, therefore more charge air per intake stroke. The flow data from both Champion & TA support the fact that untouched Aluminums will out flow most (if not all ported irons). Since aluminum heads likely flow more air (at 28 inches on the water monometer) than iron, does boost (or unusable intake air quantity go down???) Yes if all other conditions are equal. If a greater amount of air by volume (aluminum) and a greater mass density due to cooler temperature (aluminum) makes it to the combustion chamber is more gas required to meet the commanded air/fuel ratio? YES!! Since the spark plug location (aluminum) is closer to the intake and exhaust valve might the thought occur that the chamber burn rate is faster?( Less octane req'd??). This is somewhat verifiable by the fact that aluminum head cars with higher static compression ratios run pump gas (without alky) at higher boost levels than iron head motors. Temperature is only one part of the Carnot cycle. You have mass density, potential energy/unit of mass and temperature. These factors combine uniquely in most situations. Folks with aluminum heads that I know without exception say they make better power and have better response than their irons. Is it more expensive to change over to aluminum? YES!!!! Do aluminums have different torque requirements for fasteners? Are aluminums good for newbies?? Probably not!
15
« on: November 16 2013, 10:00:12 AM »
If all is well and you remove the vacuum bias line from the regulator and the static fuel pressure should be 44.1 psi (with a 3 bar regulator). When I previously stated "static fuel pressure" I have regarded that to mean no vacuum/boost pressure influence on the regulator.Sorr y about the confusion.
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