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Messages - PacecarTA
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31
« on: December 19 2013, 04:10:18 PM »
when my 86 was on TT chip and a 2004r running gta rims with 25.5" tires (mt255/50-16) i would always use fourth gear sometimes as soon as 400ft out , other times i would hold off until 120 mph , and I used OD for several hundreds passes at around 600hp trapping 125-129 and i was running a flat tappet 206 cam and ported irons that would pull over 6k without any issues but with 4th i was trapping around 5400 with a loose artcarr 9" that slipped over 17%
with 28" tires i wouldnt use fourth and really didnt need it
, now on a th400 i only have three gears and thats been working out ok .
if plans are to use fourth make sure you have the fuel and the tune are good with room to spare , those that are running out third and just on the edge will find fourth gear will be more than the tune can handle
keep timing low until the fueling is worked out , only after the fueling is good should you add timing
32
« on: December 18 2013, 05:15:24 PM »
alky cant freeze
windshield washer fluid is hit or miss on if it will freeze
if you arent going to use for a while , just drain it. either pull the hose off at the pump or take the hose off nozzle and put in a bucket ,unplug the map sensor and put a wire across the map sensor gray and green wire and turn it on (or hold the test button) , the pump will run and empty the system
i personally dont do a thing except make sure there is alky in the tank and it makes pressure before boosting it
33
« on: December 17 2013, 04:04:50 PM »
nice. I figured the install would be a bit tougher for us digital dash users
the digital dash (and gnx style dash) only requires a little work to power the map sensor plug under the hood . splice in the map connector wires (above the ecm) to the 5v tps and tps low ground from engine harness by the ecm there is a plug and play from casper or hartline for those that cant put two wires together the analog guys already have power at the map sensor but that connector gets its 5v power from the tach boost module, and those modules arent reliable after 26+years, they should also jump the power and ground from the ecm like the digital dash same goes for classic fast cars ..hard wire it and get the map sensor off the tach/boost module if you curently run the map sensor off the powerlogger analog block i would hard wire the map sensor to the tps 5v circuit ,
34
« on: December 15 2013, 08:02:44 AM »
the little external pump they use doesnt make a lot of pressure and that pressure has to overcome boost pressure
the faster you can go without alky will help when you run alky '
bigger FMIC and turbo helps because in the end its the air charge temps that need to be reduced
for a stockish car its fine and was never really meant to set any records in the alky world just keep an eye on the pump and if you can log the alky pressure to better keeep a watch on the pump output
ive had lots of problems with the SMC progressive little external pump leaking and guys knocking long before they made it to the tens
that said , buy the razor kit
the single nozzle razor kit just made it into the nines with a 67turbo
35
« on: December 12 2013, 01:59:38 PM »
cam at base (intake lifter up check exhaust and vice verse)
with tool installed and rockers installed and torqued ,adjust tool for zero lash ,then remove tool and spin it longer to add for desired preload, then measure tool and order push rods
the roller cam also has to go in with .005-008 end play between the end of cam button and the timing cover(installed and torqued)..they provide the adjustable cam button with shim set but its your job to add shims as needed to get proper end play
and its your job to verify timing chain length ,they provide a comp cams std timing set (its a double roller so you cant use the tensioner)
on a block like yours with billet mains , fitting steel caps requires a line bore and usually moves the crank center line closer to cam (some shops cut more than others) it usually requires an undersized timing set (rollmaster) , or a chain set that can use the tensioner (ta perf) but using a tensioner to take up looseness will require degreeing in the cam as a longer chain than needed will retard the cam
and be sure to check the gear/chain clearance on timing cover , they usually hit double rollers
seeall basic stuff... for buicks
36
« on: December 12 2013, 11:13:32 AM »
you can and the shafts may break with the added spring pressure required for roller cam
i run a roller on my 87x but i have solid shafts
that kit usually includes the less expensive and usually quieter morel lifters .
fullthrottle includes pushrods with kit but you should ask to have them hold off sending them until the cam is installed and measured using a pushrod tool .. allowing for proper preload
they have morell lifter option vs comp cams lifters and they both take a different pushrod length because of different lifter disc height (about .150" difference)
and limited travel race lifters may need you to order several lengths of pushrods to get it all correct to use stock rockers because they are set with almost no preload , unless you are after a class that wont allow roller rockers i would reccomend rollers rockers if you decide on limited travel lifters
roller rockers vs stock rockers will differ the rod length another .100"
once you have the number that will work with your setup give them a call and they are very quick to get out what you need
37
« on: December 11 2013, 09:46:02 PM »
for roller cam , the cam is a drop in the block (unless its a billet then you had better do your homework ) but the heads need to be prepped for the cam lift
youll want to cut the exhaust valve guide down for clearance as well as PC seals the exhaust valves should be replaced because the stock ones have a groove cut into them for oiling and a PC seal wont work with the stock valve , so you need to swap them out for a valve without a grooved stem (the TTA exhaust valve , manley or ferrea valve)
just so you know to fit a 1.94 on stock iron heads requires moving the valve guides over.
you will need new springs for a roller cam and new pushrods measured for fit after the heads and cam are installed ...dont assume the vendor sent you what you need in regards to adequate spring pressure or pushrod ..measure first
if you want to do roller rockers youll need to clearance the pedastils and measure for pushrods with the rockers you intend to run , stock and roller rockers take different length pushrods and the adjusters arent there to fix measurement errors , they are there to obtain closer preload matching and to get preloads closer to zero lash on performance lifters ..oh yeah.. all roller lifters arent created equal or take the same preload
as far as heads go the champion irons out of the box are hard to beat for the price , 1.775 1.50 valves , cnc ported , they will do springs for what you need ready for most roller cams -valve guides cut with pc seals- pedastils clearanced for roller rockers, head surface ready for MLS gaskets and the vc rail smoothed , they have been 9s and faster
38
« on: December 11 2013, 07:39:11 PM »
FYI your 1.94 intake valves look an awful lot like stock (hell they even have the GM casting) , might want to take a caliper to that
39
« on: December 09 2013, 02:44:11 PM »
12:1 A/F aint it maybe at 12-14psi youll be ok
do that and youll be doing those gaskets over again
my target on alky/ 93(its 10% ethanol blended already) is 10.5 A/F and timing at 18-19 degrees
and that 10.5 being its a mix of alky and fuel is based on having enough temp drop from alky and enough fuel to support the hp without alky
take your injector rating x injectory duty at traps and youll have the flow per injector, x 6 (injectors) , x2 (bsfc.5lb per hp)... should=HP
take your mph and weight and figure the HP,plenty of online HP charts out there .
the fuel numbers should match provided you maintained the AF ,fuel pressure stayed 1:1 during run and your boost wasnt a runaway and was somewhat under control,
too low on fuel means and you have too much alky ,
too high on fuel you dont have enough alky
its also a good idea to log the air temp at plenum so you can evaluate the alky effect , i look for ambient or withing 10 degrees during a pass , in winter 10 degrees warmer is ok , in summer 10 degrees cooler is ok
40
« on: December 03 2013, 12:49:41 PM »
nope just us and some of the canada guys ,
its like having our own board
and like driving to work at 3am...no traffic
41
« on: November 22 2013, 11:17:56 PM »
with your combo stay with the 2004r just get a rebuild from buick trans guy like husek or diers
42
« on: November 21 2013, 12:35:31 PM »
the fuel pump sock should be positioned to be pointing long end toward the float ,
43
« on: November 21 2013, 08:01:17 AM »
its not the regulator , its the return line cant flow back what the hotwired walbro is supplying
im sure if you bypass the hotwire at the tank by plugging the pump back into the factory harness youll see the pressure drops
try opening up the return line ends (the opening of the saginaw ends) with an awl or a small drill bit , and check the line at the axle and tank for kinks
44
« on: November 19 2013, 05:47:50 PM »
the ecm commands the prime for a few seconds after key on by powering up the fuel pump relay on passenger fender , after the prime times out the relay deactivates and pump goes off . after keying off for 10 seconds and then turning key on will start the prime cycle again.
as you crank the starter if the ecm sees a sufficient tach signal it commands the pump relay again
it has nothing to do with pressure
now there is a secondary pump supply at the oil sending switch (its also the idiot lamp switch) that will provide power to the pump once oil pressure goes above 4psi (turns off idiot lamp above 4psi oil pressure)
its possible that connector which is rubber is crudded up and shorting the power feed at that switch to the pump supply feed and the pump stays running or the sender switch is stuck (not common)
unplug it and see if pump still runs
not knowing whos been monkeying with your car or what its history is its possible someone miswired a hotwire relay or plugged something into the fuel prime connector behind the alternator (by the ac lines ) or bypassed the fuel relay to have the pump run with key on thats keeping the pump powered
45
« on: November 15 2013, 11:32:21 PM »
43-44 psi is where most (I think all) chips see static fuel pressure (idle rpm vacuum bias) around 700 rpm. 46 psi is static fuel pressure adjustment error (+2 psi) maybe. Your short term integrator should be driving learns closer to 128. With the static fuel pressure set to 44, pull the vacuum line off the regulator and your fuel pressure should be 38-39 psi. I wonder if you have a tear in the regulator diaphram or the spring is snagged/stuck. I wonder if a messed up return line could cause this?? 52 psi with the line off is not correct. The old KENNE BELL regulators seemed to work well and are meant to be rebuilt as necessary. If I sound like a nut case it's cause I am. Long day at work.
this is incorrect static (or base FP) is the pressure with line off or as it would read at 0psi reference line off should be 44 (varies with chip to achieve a blm around 128 ) and upon hooking back the vaccum line the pressure should drop the amount of drop should be roughly 1/2 of the reading you would see on a vacuum gauge because vacuum gauges read in In/HG and the conversion to psi is roughly 1/2 so if you have 18in/hg of vac on your gauge the pressure should drop 9psi (if satic was 44 new pressure should be 35) but dont expect that to happen on a stock return line with a hotwired 255lph pump
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