Track times....help

[Scoobum]

I'd go with an off the shelf NL 2800 10" PTC and a NL kit from Chris...but that's just me.

[good2win22]

I have a lock up as well. I've never figured the efficiency of it but it I have no qualms when deciding whether or not to take a road trip

[Shimy87]

I'd go with an off the shelf NL 2800 10" PTC and a NL kit from Chris...but that's just me.

Just curious, why the nl?

[larrym]

Lol!

Larry...what's the slip percentage of that convertor locked and unlocked?

I have not checked or ran it locked up wot.

[Scoobum]

I'd go with an off the shelf NL 2800 10" PTC and a NL kit from Chris...but that's just me.

Just curious, why the nl?

Because a LU convertor unlocked is incredibly inefficient... meaning you'll have a higher slip percentage...w hich equates to lower mph in the 1/4 and a higher rpm.

The only two convertors that can be locked at WOT to MY knowledge is the 9/11 and the Precision multidisc. The best idea would be to call Chris and David and ask if you can lock their convertors at WOT in 3rd gear for racing. I had two different LU convertors years ago. I had Eric lock them for me via his chip in 3rd gear for racing. Neither lasted long. I smoked the clutch in both of them.

Norbs went 134 mph with a Precision multidisc...an d Grumpy went 138 mph with a 9/11.

For daily driving when the convertor locks at highway speeds the rpm's will drop about 200 and get you 1-2 mpg better gas mileage. If I was worried about gas mileage then I would have sold my GN and bought a Honda.

I get 20 MPG with my old AC NL convertor.

[Steve Wood]

I would go non lock up myself. You can drive the new ones any where you want without much loss of gas mileage

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[Shimy87]

Well crap, I make a descision and then you guys have me re-thinking it    I'm not worried about the mileage at all, kinda concerned about the higher RPM when freeway crusing. Seeing as my car is no monster racing, will I see much of a difference at the track between a NL and a LU? For that matter, will I notice much of a difference in regular driving between the 2?

Thanks for all the help guys, don't wana do this twice 

[Forzfed]

The new NL have come a long ways.  I like my 9/11 but I know it is losing me performance unlocked in the 1/4.  Running pig rich one time at the track I was running 12.1@114, then locked the converter and went 11.8@117mph.  I then unlocked the converter and started leaning it out till I got an 11.8@115mph.

[1KWIKSIX]

If you do go Non Lock up, be sure you have an external transmission cooler (in addition to your internal transmission cooler in your radiator).  Non Lock Ups tend to cause much higher transmission fluid temperatures which could pose more of a concern on a long drive / cruise (particularly if you're on an uphill grade).


A sprag or diode is recommended to be installed in a converter if you want to keep fluid temperatures in check.  Spragless tend to run higher / hotter fluid temps.


Here's a quote from Lonnie Diers (Extreme Automatics) one several leading 200-R4 transmission builders.

For long periods of time yes it is too high. Ideal would be 160s but in the real world that's a hard number to hit. Unfortunately with a spragless converter trans temps will be affected and tend to be higher in hiway driving situations. This is not an opinion, it is a fact. A true street converter should have a sprag when possible. Its makes cooling the transmission much easier. Bottom line is keeping the temps in check. If you can do that IMO it does not matter what converter you run. I personally run a diode in mine. For no other reason than transmission temp. The spragless I just could not keep under 210-220 deg.

Lonnie Diers
Cincinnati, OH
513-898-0553
Extreme Automatics

[Shimy87]

Talked to Chris at CK and went over my combo and expectations and he recommended going with a 2800-3000 stall 9.5 inch wuth lu.

[Steve Wood]

well...its your money! 

[Shimy87]

Is it just the lu feature your not liking........ or the diameter...... .or the stall.....help me out Steve!!

[Scoobum]

Heat is the number one killer for transmissions. I run a large B and M transcooler. I have a full array of Z series gauges...inclu ding a trans heat gauge. Temp is normally 170 degrees on the freeways at 60 mph. I remember reading a post by Dusty Bradford stating not to sit on the footbrake or transbrake for more than 5 seconds so to avoid overheating the transmission. When bracket or grudge racing I'll prestage the car...and I'll sit there until the other car fully stages before I roll in...just to keep the trans temp down. For those that don't have a trans temp gauge in their car...you'd shit if you saw how fast the trans temp rises when you spool up on the line.

I talked to David Husek a while back and he recommended using an external cooler in tandem with the trans cooler in the rad.

[Steve Wood]

Already gave an opinion. . This one should be fine if you get it

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[gusszgs]

I changed my mind back and forth a least 5 times on whether to go LU or NL. Common sense took over,  I just asked myself how many times a year will I be running this car at the track. For me, 2-3 times tops, so I went with a Husek 9.5" LU. So far I'm elated with the performance of this converter. No track times as of yet but on the street the car is night and day to the D5. Foot brake to 1-2 psi, stab it and it just grenade's the tires. Driving normal, feels like the D5 in there. 12lb weight saving off the back of the crank as well.
If I had a track close to me I would probably be going way more often and would have gone NL.