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Messages - gordyzx9r

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 71
16
A/C, Heating and Cooling / Re: AC Compressor
« on: June 17 2017, 11:09:55 AM »
After further review, while I may not agree with their shipping practices, HighwayStars has just sent me the most beautifully packaged package I have ever recieved. Overkill for what I ordered but definatly two thumbs up!

I'm surprised to see someone still ship with peanuts...I hate those things, they get everywhere.  My box showed up quick...cold AC on the way.

17
A/C, Heating and Cooling / Re: AC Compressor
« on: June 12 2017, 05:59:27 PM »
I use Amazon and Rock Auto for lotsa stuff.  I pay for Amazon Prime and it ain't cheap, but I order a lot of stuff and the fast shipping is what I like...of course, not all of it, Prime or not, is fast.  gotta watch that.

Some times, Rock will ship from a couple of warehouses and charge freight on both...Summit does not seem to do that.

Shipping is part of running a business.  You can price it separately, or mark everything up which is fine but you lose a lot of potential business from guys that go low and then add shipping.

We use the hell out of our Amazon Prime for all the other things it has to offer like movies, shows, music, etc. 

I haven't really messed around with Rock Auto, my Dad uses it a lot though. 

18
A/C, Heating and Cooling / Re: AC Compressor
« on: June 12 2017, 04:07:33 PM »
I just received a reply from highway stars concerning shipping questions I had. They don't care, it's their way or the highway. I feel they're using shipping to make extra money. $20 to ship small lightweight pieces regular FedEx ground. Then there's the numerous email issue from them reminding you to purchase what's in your cart. I'm like I know, I don't need four emails a day to remind me. So I emptied my cart. Off to old reliable gbodyparts I go. I was just trying to be nice and throw HS a few hundred $s during this restoration. I feel they gave me the middle finger in regards to shipping. Just my 2 cents.

I don't mind the cost of the S&H, it's the fact that there is only one option and I can't expedite it.  It's hot as hell down here in AL...I could have bought the parts on Amazon and had it here in two days, but I do like to use the vendors when possible and NOS4GN carries stuff the other vendors don't/won't seem to be able to.

I've had too many bad experiences with gbodyparts though...I'll order some items from them, but nothing mechanical, suspension related or electrical. 

19
A/C, Heating and Cooling / Re: AC Compressor
« on: June 12 2017, 12:20:02 PM »
Is that when they are reusing the old clutch assy perhaps?

They made it sound like something they were trying to do to avoid having to replace anything...

20
A/C, Heating and Cooling / Re: AC Compressor
« on: June 12 2017, 11:32:51 AM »
In the interim, as I wait patiently  :rolleyes; for my order to arrive.  I thought I remember reading that people have sprayed their compressor clutch with WD40 to loosen it up. Before I go out there and start spraying WD40 everywhere...i s that viable and where are they spraying exactly?  Just onto the front of the clutch?

21
A/C, Heating and Cooling / Re: AC Compressor
« on: June 12 2017, 11:20:25 AM »
Called NOS4GN this morning...they have the compressor in stock.  So I ordered everything from them.

Wish they'd take phone orders and expedite S&H.  Not a fan of having to order online and only getting one shipping option to use FEDEX. 

22
A/C, Heating and Cooling / Re: AC Compressor
« on: June 12 2017, 08:40:16 AM »
His website says he's out of the compressors.  As much as I'd like to go with AC Delco, if I buy from Advanced Auto I get a warranty and it's local.

Also, my system has been converted to 134. 



23
A/C, Heating and Cooling / Re: AC Compressor
« on: June 12 2017, 12:21:55 AM »
Most likely the compressor has seized up...will take a new compressor and clutch plus having the system flushed out to get rid of the debris...then a recharge

Yeah, that what's I figured.  Would like to do it this week.  Didn't realize there was an AC section here.  Hoping I have the right parts in mind:

 My system was converted to 134 years ago.
 
Just want to make sure I'm buying the right stuff.  I'm trying to get it done this week, so it's either Amazon 2 day delivery or try to buy them locally.
 
ACDelco 15-20225 GM Original Equipment R4 Air Conditioning Compressor and Clutch Assembly
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EQP0KA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
 
ACDelco 15-1681 GM Original Equipment Air Conditioning Accumulator
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZ8X32/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
 
What is the correct part number for the AC Compressor Cutoff Switch?  The one that's on the compressor itself.  Trying to find it on Amazon.
 
What is the correct part number for the blue Ford orifice?  Again, trying to find it on Amazon.
 
Via Advance Auto:
 
The Blue Ford Orifice
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-blue-orifice-tube-1-pack-t38621/10052826-P
 
Cutoff S
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/acdelco-a-c-pressure-switch-r1054321623acd/10769299-P
 
AC Compressor
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-air-conditioning-compressor-with-clutch-new-t68225/20891113-P
 
Accumulator
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-air-conditioning-accumulator-t33183/5892597-P
 
Gaskets:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/factory-air-o-ring-gasket-a-c-system-seal-kit-26735/15890349-P
 

24
Double post...

25
My system was converted to 134 years ago.
 
Just want to make sure I'm buying the right stuff.  I'm trying to get it done this week, so it's either Amazon 2 day delivery or try to buy them locally.
 
ACDelco 15-20225 GM Original Equipment R4 Air Conditioning Compressor and Clutch Assembly
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EQP0KA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
 
ACDelco 15-1681 GM Original Equipment Air Conditioning Accumulator
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZ8X32/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
 
What is the correct part number for the AC Compressor Cutoff Switch?  The one that's on the compressor itself.  Trying to find it on Amazon.
 
What is the correct part number for the blue Ford orifice?  Again, trying to find it on Amazon.
 






Via Advance Auto:
The Blue Ford Orifice
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-blue-orifice-tube-1-pack-t38621/10052826-P
 
Cutoff Switch
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/acdelco-a-c-pressure-switch-r1054321623acd/10769299-P
 
AC Compressor
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-air-conditioning-compressor-with-clutch-new-t68225/20891113-P
 
Accumulator
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-air-conditioning-accumulator-t33183/5892597-P
 
Gaskets:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/factory-air-o-ring-gasket-a-c-system-seal-kit-26735/15890349-P
 

26
A/C, Heating and Cooling / AC Compressor
« on: June 11 2017, 07:23:13 PM »
So, last night...I went to use the AC for the first time since last year.

Turn it on and all of a sudden I hear something screeching and smoke pouring out of the hood.

Shut the car off, grab the fire extinguisher, pop the hood...nothing .

Hmm...so I turn off everything, start the car and all is good.  Turn on AC and there it is again.

It almost looked like it was arcing out of the compressor.

Time for a new one.

I'm told I can get a compressor and dryer at any auto parts store but that I should also get an orifice for a 95 Ford F150 V8. 

27
General Buick Tech / Re: MAL codes with FAST XFI are different?
« on: June 11 2017, 06:32:21 PM »
I really need to take a couple weeks off to get educated...I had no idea all this changed with FAST XFI:

What the heck does this mean!?!  "Programmed sensor bias voltage out of tolerance"

27.3.3 Fault Codes
To determine what fault code(s) have been set, observe the “Error Code” and “ErrorCode 2” channels.  They will display a numeric code which can be used to look up what fault has occurred.  The possible faults are listed here.
Error Code 1:
 
           1: CTS Fault 
           2: ATS Fault
           4: MAP Fault
           8: TPS Fault
         16: Wideband Fault
         32: Ign. Voltage Fault
         64: Overboost Fault
        128: IAC Fault
 
 Error Code 2:
 
           1: CTS Bias Error
           2: ATS Bias Error
           4: Fuel Composition Sensor Fault
           8: Injector Duty Cycle Fault
         16: Fuel Pressure Sensor Fault (AAUX1)
         32: Oil Pressure Sensor Fault (AAUX2)
         64: Cam Sync Position Error
        128: Crank Sync Position Error

If the “Error Code” channel has a value of 4, it means a MAP Fault has occurred.  Or if “ErrorCode 2” has a value of 64, a Cam Sync Position Error has occurred.  If more than a single fault code has been set, the value of the error code channels will be the sum of the individual fault code numbers.  When this happens, there is a simple way to determine which faults have occurred.  Determine the largest single fault code that fits into the displayed error code number.  That will be one of the fault codes that have been set. Subtract that number and again look for the largest single fault code that fits into the remaining error code number.


For example, assume “Error Code” = 37.  37 does not match up with any single fault code.  The largest single fault code that fits into 37 would be 32.  So 32 would be the first fault code.  37-32 leaves 5.   Again, 5 does not does not match up with any single fault code.  In this case, the largest single fault code that fits into 5 would be 4.  So 4 would be the second fault code.  5-4 leaves 1.  1 does match up with a single fault code, so it is the third fault code.   So in this example, there has been an Ign. Voltage fault, a MAP fault and a CTS fault.

Error Code Definitions:

CTS Fault
Coolant temperature sensor measurement approaching or at range limit
[size=0pt]If a CTS fault code is set, the ECU takes the following actions to protect the engine.[/size]
 
  • Fan output is switched on
  • Target idle speed is forced to 1000 RPM
  • EGR function disabled
  • CTS based fuel correction zeroed out
ATS Fault
Air temperature sensor measurement approaching or at range limit
[size=0pt]If an ATS fault code is set, the ECU takes the following actions to protect the engine.[/size]
 
  • In Speed Density mode, fueling calculations performed based on an air temperature of 59 *F
  • EGR function disabled
  • ATS based fuel correction zeroed out
  • ATS based spark timing correction zeroed out

 MAP Fault
Raw MAP measurement approaching or at range limit
 -and-
 TPS (%) > “Max. TPS for Idle (%)” parameter
 
TPS Fault
Raw throttle position sensor measurement approaching or at range limit

 Wideband Fault
Engine RPM > 2000
 -and-
 Engine run > 10 seconds
 -and-
 WBO2 not connected (UEGOR > 4.90V)
 -or-
 WBO2 Shorted (UEGOR < 0.098V)
 -or-
 WBO2 not lit off (UEGOS > .07056V)
 -or-
 WBO2 malfunction (UEGOS < 0.196V)

 Ign. Voltage Fault
Measured Ignition Voltage > 19.0V
 -or-
 Measured Ignition Voltage < 7.0V

 Overboost Fault
 MAP(kPa) > Overboost Fault Limit (kPa)

IAC Fault
 IAC wiring shorted to ground
-or-
IAC wiring shorted to power
-or-
IAC controller overheated
Check the IAC Status channel for more detail.

 CTS Bias Error
Programmed sensor bias voltage out of tolerance
 
 ATS Bias Error
Programmed sensor bias voltage out of tolerance
Fuel Composition Sensor Fault
Sensor enabled but not detected or malfunctioning .
Injector Duty Cycle Fault
[/color]Duty Cycle at or exceeded 100%
Fuel Pressure Sensor Fault
[/color]Fuel pressure correction enabled and raw fuel pressure sensor measurement approaching or at range limit.
Oil Pressure Sensor Fault
[/color]Oil pressure engine cut enabled and raw oil pressure sensor measurement approaching or at range limit.

 Cam Sync Position Error
Cam Sync occurred at an unexpected angle
 -or-
 Cam Sync failed to occur when expected

 Crank Sync Position Error
Crank Sync occurred at an unexpected angle
 -or-
 Crank Sync failed to occur when expected

28
General Buick Tech / MAL codes with FAST XFI are different?
« on: June 11 2017, 06:10:46 PM »
I was at a car event last night and when I started the car, it stumbled and died.  I didn't turn the key off, I just started it again and I had a check engine light with a code 22.  I went to my mal card and it said TPS Low Signal Voltage.  Readings seemed normal though.

Got home, shutoff car, went to do some research...cam e back, started car and no mal code or check engine light.

Then this morning, I check the Scanmaster 3 manual and the codes are different?  It says a code 22 is ATS Bias error.

http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/scanmaster-3-manual.439091/

Is that right?  What does that mean?

I don't even see that type of mal code in the original system:

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html




29
Looks like it will run now- and Don will stand behind his work. enjoy!
Leave it the F* alone :)

Yeah, so far I'm really happy about the decision to bring him the car.  The guys in FL I've met have nothing but good things to say about him.  For those that aren't aware, he's decided to pursue working on cars full time:

http://www.cruzperformance.com/home.html

30
So...I got the car back.  Verdict is still out because I don't want to jinx it.  One of two things happened with my previous build...either I was royally screwed or someone got past my home security system and went through the trouble of replacing the motor I paid for with an identically appearing motor that was destined to fail.  Someone out there has some really nice parts on their car that I paid for.

Anyways...the only thing Don could save that wasn't junk was the block, the intake manifold, heads, and the front cover.  When I bought the heads originally (used) I was told they were the first generation of Champion Irons...Champi on couldn't guarantee 100% that they were their heads.   

So at the end of the day, head repair, machine work, new pistons, new rods, new crank (CRUZ TSM 3.400), new bearings, new cam (CRUZ TSM), lifters, new billet chain, new lifters, new girdle, new BHJ balancer, ARP bolts, XFI, TR6, Scanmaster 3, Boost Leash Boost Controller, CO2 Kit, double pumper fuel system with heavy duty braided lines front to back with new custom CRUZ fuel rails, new regulator, completely redone/relocated vacuum lines, new ALKY methanol kit, and Cotton's FMIC.

The motor looks nice.  It sounds really quiet, really quiet.  Once the XFI does it's thing after start up...the idle is unbelievably smooth and the throttle response is just amazing.  It's almost eerie how quiet the motor is...hell the dual SPALs drown out the motor when they come on.  Don has the boost set at 15 for now and it gets there immediately.  I need to go back in and check the settings on the XFI to see if the speed is set for KPH versus MPH as the SM3 is not showing accurate MPH ( I think it said I was doing 125 when I was doing around 60).  I'm hoping it's not something to do with the Stewart Warner gauges...the old SM 2.1 and power logger displayed correctly.

He'd like for me to go with a bigger turbo and injectors...ri ght now I still have the rebuilt PTE TA52 and 60lbs. injectors but I need a new roof and after what I paid for this third rebuild...I'm done spending big money on the GN for awhile. 

Forgot to mention, he also removed the "custom" pre-luber, he was not thrilled with it at all.

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