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Messages - bryes
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61
« on: March 28 2015, 09:19:50 PM »
Glad to hear that your trans is still going well TexasT, I have mine out right now and am going through it, so this thread is a nice resource!
62
« on: October 18 2014, 05:47:36 PM »
Yes! Park and six neutrals!
Really,even though it still feels like I have something to complain about , that was about the most ideal time to break something:
At the end of the season when the transmission was going to have to come out anyway, and after I got it home and unloaded from the trailer. I guess I got the better of Murphy and his stupid law on that deal!
63
« on: October 17 2014, 09:03:52 PM »
The good news is I trailered the car back to Ohio without any incident. The "good" news is that I took the car out for one last ride and I think I killed the transmission,
Under acceleration the transmission shifted from 1 to 2 and basically made some sort of noise and then nothing... the engine just reved up and now I have no forward gears and no reverse.
64
« on: October 06 2014, 10:33:59 PM »
Well thanks a lot for checking, I appreciate it.
65
« on: October 05 2014, 01:23:25 PM »
Thanks a lot. I'll take it if it's still good. I sure can wait a couple of days to find out. Any revolvers? 
66
« on: October 04 2014, 08:49:17 PM »
I am really trying to watch my spending bc I lost my job a couple weeks back, so I'd rather delay the translator purchase if I can get a stock MAF for much cheaper (one sold for 40 bucks a few weeks back). If I can't get one for somewhere near that price point, I'll probably just take a chance with what i have.
67
« on: October 04 2014, 04:54:32 PM »
I'm in the market to purchase a known good factory MAF to use as a spare in a couple of weeks when I am traveling cross country.
Let me know what you have.
Thanks!
68
« on: October 04 2014, 01:47:39 PM »
Thanks for the good suggestions everyone.
I am going to concentrate on getting another MAF before I go. I can pick up an ignition module and coil and hopefully return them later.
I think the revolver is a great idea as well, it can serve multiple purposes:
1. Play a rousing game of Russian roulette in case driving the car with a low mileage FT cam isn't risky enough for me.
2. Signal for help in case the 80s era car phone in my car won't work.
3. Instruct rednecks on the difference between the quintessential 80's muscle car and a neutered 305 powered monte
4. Shoot the WV deer that run out in front of the car
5. Celebrate like Yosemite Sam when I make it home without my cam going flat
69
« on: October 02 2014, 07:18:34 PM »
I appreciate the thought Earl. The engine is the one I did 200 miles ago and I did have to replace the stock cam with new a FT. I've read some of the same threads that you have where the cam goes flat quickly after rebuild. One things for sure, in my case if it happens I have one person to blame  At least I know that the block was cleaned and assembled to the best of my ability, I'll take that over an unknown rebuild. I could cut open the oil filter at least to make sure it's not shedding material already, but other than that it wouldn't dissuade me to have a fresh "rebuild". I'm more worried about the 27 year old sensors though. My tow vehicle would be a 15 yo excursion with 200k miles and not nearly as many new parts as my GN. So saving a 1600 mile trip for it would be mitigating risk in another respect.
70
« on: October 02 2014, 02:42:23 PM »
To summarize my situation, my GN has recently awakened from a decade long slumber. Now that I've gotten most of the bugs worked out, I have to move. The plan is to drive it from GA to OH in the next few weeks, a trip of about 800 miles. I could trailer it or have it shipped, but I've decided to save some money and drive it. Being unemployed, I have a lot of time on my hands, so a road trip sounds like a nice distraction anyway.
I appreciate the thought Earl,
I've only put about 200 miles on the car since completing it's reawakening. It seems to do fine on the highway other than minor things (no radio, odd idiot lights etc.)
Just for background info, the new or rebuilt parts that I've installed and can think of right now are listed below:
Engine: Freshened.
Brakes: Converted to hydroboost. Rotors and pads are good.
Tires: Replaced all 4
Fuel Pump: New WB 340
Cam Sensor Cap: New
ECM: Rebuilt Autozone
Crank Sensor: New
All Common Filters and fluids:
Belts and hoses are replaced or nice.
The car is pretty much stock with the upgrades in my signature. No liquid leaks yet whatsoever... believe it or not, and I've checked thoroughly.
Obviously I am taking a chance by driving a 27 yo vehicle that many miles, so i want to eliminate risk by having a few parts at hand if possible. To me the most likely candidates I think are:
MAF
IGN Module
Coils
Radiator stop leak
The module and coils I think I'll buy from a parts store, and return them when I'm home. I'm not sure what to do about the MAF though, any ideas? Do I have to have a spare? Are you dead in the water with a bad MAF or is there a way around it?
Finally, do people ever set their cars up to run on 87 for long trips? I think it'd only save me about 20 bucks, so I'm leaning against it.
I'm interested in hearing everyone's opinions and experiences. What would you do if you were in my shoes?
Thanks
71
« on: September 26 2014, 07:05:35 PM »
I took out spark plugs #1, 4 and 5 today and they did not show any signs of "peppering". So it looks like I was able to get away with the 18-19 psi boost I ran yesterday. Also, I wasn't able to test it so my knock sensor still may or may not be functioning correctly, I'll try banging around some other time unless someone else knows a better way to check. Regardless, I chickened out and lowered the boost some, I'm kind of trying for maybe 15-16 for now.
Here are a couple of photos of the #4 spark plug which is the cylinder that was blown and I "repaired". I did a WOT blast at the 18-19 psi then drove home about 1/8 mile and shut the car down. The spark plugs from the other 2 cylinders looked basically identical to the pictures below.
72
« on: September 26 2014, 11:03:02 AM »
As much as I'd like to do the converter right now, that would be something I'd much rather do on a lift. Also, I should really focus on setting the car up for highway mpg, rather than on performance for now. It's just not very fun to think in those terms  , especially since right now the 1 month before we have to get out of Savannah seems like an eternity. Today I might try to whack on my block and see if I can get the SM to retard the timing. I might also pull a plug or two to make sure that the motor is happy at those higher (for me) boost levels. Maybe if all is well I'll take it out and have a little more fun  with it before changing my focus.
73
« on: September 25 2014, 08:22:04 PM »
Thanks Steve. I checked and I did have the solenoid hooked up properly, so I guess the solenoid isn't working properly. Right now, I have more time than money on my hands, so I decided to take the homemade rout. I ordered the parts you recommended at [size=0px]http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm [/size][/color] [/size] from Grainger to make my own controller. I followed the instructions on assembling it, except for the part about beating the barb into the adjustable check valve with a hammer.[size=0px]I wonder if the valve I received had a smaller hole than some others that would allow a "press" fit with the barb. The hole was around 3/16" I think, whereas the barb OD was more like 0.280", I know I would have destroyed that 90 deg barb trying to press fit it. Anyway, I was able to drill and tap the valve and 90* barbed fitting for 5/16" 18 threads, so mine now screws together instead of being a press fit. The barb was below the minimum OD, so the threads aren't exactly nominal, but it still tightened down fine. I played with the car today and was trying to work the boost up to the point that I saw some KR on the scanmaster. With the tight converter, the car really doesn't pull until 15-20 mph, but as the boost builds to those higher pressures, the car comes to life. At 25-30 mph, I could hear the tires beginning to break loose.I worked the car past 15 psi and finally wound up making 18-19 psi of boost according to my gauge. The scanmaster still said 0 KR, I hit the recall button several times to make sure after each run. I should be OK because I replaced the knock sensor when I did the motor and torqued it to spec... and it is plugged in. But I'd like to test it to make sure I don't have any surprises. I've read that you can bang on the block to test for knock, is this the best method? Maybe I need to get an alchy kit to insure i have no knock? Plus it's a safety item for the engine so I should be able to get funding!
74
« on: September 22 2014, 11:03:55 PM »
Thanks SS, I'll let you know.
Good news, the fuel pump is in now and it looks like my fuel pressure issues have been solved. The fuel pressure looks like it increases at least 1 / 1 with boost pressure, or maybe a little more. It's kind of hard to look at both gauges simultaneously, I can see how a PL would be nice (I have one now, not installed yet).
Once I had proper fuel pressure, I re-installed the vacuum hose to the stock waste gate solenoid hoping for a bit more boost than the 10-11 I was getting by bypassing the solenoid. When I re-connected the solenoid and went WOT, my boost spiked up to about 14 psi and then settled down to 12 or so. I don't remember having that spike before switching back those vacuum tubes, does this sound like the solenoid is working properly?
Am I better off just getting rid of the stock waste gate solenoid altogether and trying to adjust boost levels with my adjustable waste gate rod? I might play with the car to try and raise the boost to 15 or 16 psi (I am running 93). Or does the stock solenoid do more than I think it does? Does the computer (I have a TT chip) reduce boost with it if it senses knock?
Thanks.
75
« on: September 19 2014, 07:48:30 PM »
Thanks and take your time. I don't think i'm going to do anything with the converter until I'm back in Ohio anyway, so I really can't use it until maybe early November at the earliest.
This weekend the WB 340 is going in, hopefully that will fix my fuel pressure issues and will be the last piece of the puzzle before I consider driving it back.
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