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Messages - bryes
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181
« on: June 05 2012, 11:03:53 PM »
New to this thread and won't hit you with more detailed advice to confuse you. Just to make the end cost a little
clearer, after sitting 10 years it all has to be rebuilt or replaced. This goes for brake system, fuel system, all
chassis rubber, turbo, wiring eaten by animals, all vacuum lines and anything powered like antenna, seats or windows.
Looking at your engine pics these is no shortcut or cheap build. The block and crank, intake and bare heads may be all
that can be reused. Stand back and look at all the costs. It may be cheaper to use it as a parts car and buy something
running and looks good for $7-$10K. To do your car right expect to go over that.
ULYCYC, welcome to the thread. I do appreciate the heads up! When I bought the car, I thought that I'd look into the motor "real quick", and if it wasn't something relatively simple, it would become a parts car or whatever. Now, if I stand back and look at it objectively, I realize that this project has crossed over that threshold, and if I continue down this path, I'll likely, like you mentioned, have more money in it than it's worth. But for some unexplained reason, I just feel myself putting on my work clothes... walking out to that shed... I think your post may well be one of those rare nuggets of wisdom that one day I'll look back at and think to myself, "why the heck didn't I listen to him!"  One advantage this way is that I don't have to come up with a large chunk of cash all at once (much easier to keep a large # of smaller purchases on the DL!). Also, I have learned a lot of new things met some new people who offer to send me parts and buy me canadian beers. So maybe that makes up the difference! For now at least I am going to work on putting together the heads, and we'll see what happens. I am not in too deep yet, so I can always change my mind depending on what happens.
If it helps I have a few sets of stock heads here so if you need some good used valves just pay for the postage. I could also deliver to Ohio for the BPG event 1st week of August. I'll even throw in a couple Ice Cold Canadian Beers!! 
Thanks a lot for the offer/s Super Six, you rock!  Unfortunately, I won't be in Ohio the 1st of August , so I'll have to pass on the beer.  I just might take you up on the valve/s though. Now about those valves, I'd like a better idea of how many I'll need: Any chance that this valve can be resurfaced?
182
« on: June 04 2012, 11:11:42 PM »
Although I am still in a holding pattern on the short-block, I have decided to have the my stock heads rebuilt now. I am going to try to drop them off in Ohio this weekend, then pick them up mid-July. I have already bought the new valve springs (cc 980s), so now I need to worry about valves.
My plan is to have the oem valves, especially the exhaust, reconditioned if possible. After doing research on the issue it is my impression that the Inconel stock exhaust valves are superior to all but the most expensive aftermarket pieces. Unfortunately, it is likely that at least one of my exhaust valves is trash. After keeping an eye on the boards lately, I haven't seen any sets of NOS or good used oem exhaust valves, so I was hoping to find the next best alternative, unless that alternative is just to wait until a stock set shows up.
From what I have found so far it seems that ferrara "severe duty" stainless valves are the way to go. But that was an older post, so if someone wouldn't mind pointing me in the right direction for guidance, I'd appreciate it.
As always thanks in advance.
Bryes
183
« on: May 13 2012, 10:16:54 PM »
I just now ordered the 42 lb injector kit from TT, along with a hotwire kit, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a scanmaster. I think I was able to successfully "launder" some money from the budget over the past several months, so hopefully this transaction will fly under the radar of the evil female "auditor" who I am sure by now is wondering what these car parts are doing in her living room and when, if ever, will I get this piece of crap back together!
184
« on: May 13 2012, 10:54:50 AM »
As always, thanks Steve for the helpful information and for explaining the 42# injectors, that saved me some money. I'll be ordering them today with a fuel regulator and hotwire kit. I need to think about that fuel gauge too, I will probably buy an autometer gauge from summit. I think they are still made in usa, which is worth the extra $$ to me. I will be buying a scanmaster and possibly a fuel pump (supposedly my pump was replaced, but I have no idea what that really means considering the source) when I get closer to installing the motor. I definitely won't be working on the car much down here when the temperature is > 90; so I really expect this project to be completed in the fall. That is unless my employment is terminated and am forced to finish sooner. At least once I get the intake back together, if I was forced I could have an ATK long block delivered here in a few days. Then I could have the car back together in a few days if I worked all day (Yes, I am slow). I want to avoid moving a project in pieces as things would get lost/ damaged, so I have to keep that in mind. Hopefully I can remain 1 step ahead of my employment situation! The plan now is to just work on sub-assemblies when I have the time. I am going to have the heads done and ready to go, this will allow me to buy a short block if I find one. Other than that, I will just be cleaning everything up and getting it ready to install once the engine situation is worked out. Holy crap that is one fried piston! It is worse than the one I keep on my desk at work...
Funny you say that, at work I have the snout from a broken crank that I replaced probably ten years ago!
185
« on: May 12 2012, 10:32:49 PM »
Although I am still mulling around my options on the long block, I have begun to work on the intake. At the suggestion of basically everyone, I am going to take this "opportunity" to upgrade my injectors (60 lb I think) and also install an adjustable fuel regulator. I was wondering what exactly to buy?
I will buy brand new parts, so it suggestions on what brand and where to buy from would be very helpful. The car will remain stock for now, so I was also wondering if I have to change chips with the new injectors, or will the one in there (I think it is stock but not 100% sure) do. I would like to avoid buying a chip if I have to, but it's not that big of a thing.
Also, I ruined on of the sensors (#1) in the picture below so I would like to know what it is first (1- 3 all look like they measure coolant temp) and where to buy a new one (hopefully still available.)
Thanks
186
« on: April 02 2012, 08:03:35 PM »
So I am wondering, not that it matters at this point, what happened to this motor knowing that the plug wires were hooked up wrong, the piston was blown, the timing sprocket was stripped out and the flywheel bolts were ovaled.
Here are two hair brained theories that could possibly explain everything.
Scenario 1.
Wires were hooked up wrong causing pre-ignition and burning a hole in the piston. Torque converter bolt holes were ovaled from inertial loads of the torque converter mass under negative angular acceleration due to this pre ignition. Same thing happens at the front of the crank to the timing chain with inertial loads from cam, stripping the teeth off the weaker nylon sprocket.
Debris from the piston and burning from hot gasses galled the valve causing it to stick and Driving it into the cam, scuffing it and ripping out timing gears.
Scenario 2:
Timing chain sprocket breaks and engine runs like crap. To remedy this situation someone comes up with a brain child of hooking up spark plug wires in the wrong order to compensate (don't ask me how they figured out what worked). Pre-ignition results, and damage occurs from this point as described above.
Let me know if anyone else has any ideas / scenarios, thinks the above is complete bollocks or really doesn't care.
Bryes
187
« on: April 02 2012, 07:45:49 PM »
Yesterday I found some more damage in the engine. First (and pictured) the timing sprocket was missing a couple of teeth as seen below. Also when I took the cam out into the light, a single lobe corresponding to the valve neares the damaged portion of the damaged piston was scuffed. I could actually see a line where the lobe was worn and / or deformed. None of the other lobes had similar damage.
188
« on: April 01 2012, 12:19:41 PM »
Yeah, it's strange. I can say for sure that all of the bolts were torqued TIGHT with blue locktite, it was a real pain to break them loose. Also, All three torque converter bolt holes look similar. I'm just puzzled as to what exactly could do this.
189
« on: April 01 2012, 12:34:10 AM »
Ok Guys, another update.
I begged one of my co-workers to borrow his cherry picker and engine stand, so I have completed removing the motor from the car. While I am still considering getting a rebuilt engine, I am also looking into having it machined locally here. I finally found a small machine shop, run by an individual, whose work all the locals rave about. I think he has been in business a long time but I need to research further... so we'll see.
Because of this I have been digging into the motor further and have posted some pictures below. The un-damaged bores are not bad, they measured nominal dimension at a small distance from TDC. When I removed the bad piston, the corresponding crank journal looks normal to me, will mic it tomorrow. The rod bearing has not worn excessively and is not scored badly by my estimation. To me it looks like I'll likely at least have a good crank, I'll have it NDT'd just in case though.
If do rebuild this one, I am going with a stock rebuild with forged pistons. I'll probably have to replace the oil pump because I noticed some shavings were sucked into the screen on this one. Any thoughts on what to get, oil pump wise??
Also, I notice that my flex plate had suffered a fastener bearing failure (see below) so that will have to be replaced. This seems like a strange thing to me. Anyone have this happen??
Thanks for reading,
Bryes.
190
« on: March 12 2012, 12:26:51 AM »
I understand, and as long as you keep the boost low, those hypereutectics may hold up...until they see a little detonation and then you will discover why they are not used very often...
I can look into getting forged pistons with the motor if that is the major weak point in the build (I believe you can customize some but sacrifice delivery). Would it make sense to have forged pistons with an NA crank? I'll try to keep a closer eye on the boards, maybe something interesting will pop up in the next couple of weeks.
191
« on: March 11 2012, 11:53:50 PM »
Thanks for the heads up. I just got back into town and it was already sold! I would have really considered it too.
192
« on: March 10 2012, 12:02:34 AM »
I was looking through some other posts, and it seems they do use turbo pistons, hyper-eutectic silverlight 1735H specifically. Probably they aren't any more expensive for a big company buying in bulk anyway, so might as well use the right one. As far as the crank goes, I realize I won't be assured to get a rolled fillet. But from a company rep said, they do try and match turbo cranks with the turbo motors when available. The only post I saw where somebody tried to verify the crank, it turned out to indeed be a turbo crank. Either way, from what I have read, i think I can live with a NA crank for my setup. There was some mixed reviews about the motors for sure, but I think that is pretty universal for every type of build.  For what it's worth they do have a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty, if they stand behind it at all then maybe it forces them to not cut all corners. Either way, I'm kind of in a bind here and really haven't had much luck finding a buick engine shop in this area.
193
« on: March 09 2012, 07:39:38 PM »
Well everyone, I won't have a chance to work on the car this weekend to get the motor out. My mics are coming through the mail though, so I'll try to measure the bores when they arrive.
I have been considering my options should the engine show additonal significant damage (crank, pistons, etc) or wear; as i suspect will be the case. In the interest of completing this project, I think I have decided against rebuilding this motor for the time being and instead I will buy a reman long block. I have read several posts regarding this route, and most seem to have had good luck with ATK. I called them and it's about $1,600 including delivery. They'll deliver to the house, and I can just swat out the accessories and intake and more or less be done with it.
Let me know if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions, experience with going the rebuilt long block route.
Thanks
194
« on: March 07 2012, 07:20:52 PM »
Nice Car!!
195
« on: March 06 2012, 07:58:42 PM »
Does anyone have recommendation s for a machine shop that does good work on turbo buicks near Savannah?
I'm going to be doing a stock rebuild on my '87 231 and am willing to drive some for the right place.
Thanks
Bryes
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