IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: gnonyx on February 14 2015, 11:08:30 PM
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I don't want to start a debate on whether Prolong Engine Treatment is garbage or not, but I have been using Castro GTX High Mileage 20W-50 with one bottle of Prolong Engine Treatment for the pass 90,000 miles.
I know many have been using other type of oil and also used ZDDP, and just recently I switched to Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Conventional Motor Oil since it has some ZDDP.
I'm also considering adding a bottle of Prolong Engine Treatment since personally the engine has ran great for the past 90,000 miles.
Would like to heard other opinions on Prolong Engine Treatment
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never mind
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What does a jug of that stuff cost?
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The cost is 20.00 for a 12 oz bottle and after oil change use the 8 oz bottle http://www.prolong.com/estore/default.aspx (http://www.prolong.com/estore/default.aspx)
Like I said many used ZDDP (cost of 10.00) for cam application, but I haven't hear anything mention about the rest of the engine parts.
This product takes care of all including the turbo to which I'm more concern.
Yes I know to each it's know of whats best to use; just asking some opinions, and comments
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My aunt lived to the old age of 98 and ate a piece of Italian pastry every night after dinner. I'm using her idea for long life and who can prove it wrong... :cheers:
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Global warming is a hoax.
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A little research will tell you all you need to know
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Never used it myself but I have used slick 50. I can tell you (Steve will disagree) that at 6 grand on the tach and the oil line blows, and you dump your entire sump on the pavement, no engine damage happened. :O That made me a believer in slick 50. :rock:
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I posted this on TBS years ago...but I'll do it here. The cam lobe is ground to make the lifter spin...and if it doesn't spin...you lose the cam. Throw all the ZDDP at it you want...and it won't help.
We had a rig set up that would spin the engine with the intake off and an oil line hooked up. I'd watch the lifters to make sure they spun...fast. We'd use jobber lifters...and if one spun slowly...then I'd grab a GM lifter...and it would spin a million miles an hour.
Correct break in for a flat tappet cam is absolutely essential. I slather cam break in lube on the cam and lifters on assembly. I also make sure there's oil coming out of the rockers before I twist the key on a new engine. Dan and I have a special tool for pre lubing the engine.
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Never used it myself but I have used slick 50. I can tell you (Steve will disagree) that at 6 grand on the tach and the oil line blows, and you dump your entire sump on the pavement, no engine damage happened. :O That made me a believer in slick 50. :rock:
Funny you say that. My buddy put that stuff in a beater car and then drained the oil, he then took it on the open night dirt track to blow the motor. Funny thing was he never blew the motor. :chin: I can't believe it either but that was the time when the TV commercials had the motors on the dyno and drained the oil and kept going.
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And yet, there are numerous of others that attempted to demonstrate the claims and the engine blew in seconds. I always thought that those tests where the fire hose was aimed at the engine were intended to allow the water to act as oil to keep the bearings from instantly burning up.
For all the claims, Slick 50 and Prolong could not prove any of their clams to the Federal Trade Commission and they were forced to change all their claims regarding engine protection, etc. A search with Google will find all the details of the cases against them and the settlement agreements.
Slick 50 plugged many a hydraulic lifter and caused damage when the lifter stopped functioning. I think they reformulated it to make the particles even smaller but it hurt them badly.
It's strange to hear the eye witness accounts of miracles but then they could not duplicate their claims to the government.
Snake oil. No legitimate testing agency can find any benefit. Like Ed said, I have a car that has 147,000 miles on the short block and it has had nothing but regular oil in it...
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I've always wondered how long a car would run with a crankcase full of water.
I'm betting it's much longer than a lot of people think.
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I've always wondered how long a car would run with a crankcase full of water.
I'm betting it's much longer than a lot of people think.
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I remember back in my fleet mgt, days we drained all the oil out of a high mileage 1970 6cyl Ford Maverick. Turned up the idle and let it run. It ran and smoked for over a hour. The only reason it stopped was the exh manifold glowed cherry red and started the engine grease on fire. We bought some of the cheapest low low quality oil and changed it once a year at some locations. Many got retired with over 200K miles. Funny how some can credit long engine life to snake oil.