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Topics - ~JM~
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« on: November 04 2021, 01:32:40 PM »
Steve, Will this rebuild kit work with the CS144 typically found in '87 Turbo Regal? https://www.ebay.com/itm/142984342064I see mention of an "early" & "later" model CS144. Haven't found an explanation of the differences. Thank you.
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« on: October 03 2021, 07:00:56 PM »
...Or a Tale of Two PCV Valves.
Drove the car yesterday after a top-end overhaul. My vacuum assist brakes performed poorly. Car has been down for several months. Ran a few vacuum tests today. With the new PCV valve installed (pictured left) I have 10" of vacuum at brake booster. With the old PCV (pictured right) I have 16" of vacuum.
I applied 20-30# of pressure to the opposite end. Here are my findings. The valve on the left prevents the boost pressure from entering the block/crankcase. The valve on the right reduces flow into crankcase, but does not prevent pressurizing the engine block.
I need a PCV valve that has the proper sized orifice to provide enough vacuum to operate the brakes & still blocks boost pressure from entering the engine block.
Any recommendation s?
Thanks.
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« on: September 25 2021, 10:35:44 AM »
I have used Powermaster starters & alternators in the past with good success, so I ordered a new 170a alternator intended for the Grand National.
It just arrived & I noticed the drive pulley is smaller diameter than the OEM pulley. Concerned this may negatively affect the serpentine belt tension. Haven't looked into it well enough to see if the pulleys can be swapped. The alternator has a performance test card that shows 130+ amps @ idle, but I suspect that is with the smaller pulley.
Anyone have any feedback on this?
Thanks.
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« on: September 18 2021, 09:17:35 PM »
First fire on newish top end. A couple of problems I need to resolve pasted below.
Problem #1: I replaced the driver side header with one from TA Performance. The OEM crossover pipe does not mate up well between the two headers now. I think the outlet flange on the TA header is larger diameter & taller. I have an exhaust leak on the D-side that I'm assuming is coming from there. Suppose I must now order the TA crossover to make it work. Sure wish these companies would either QC or communicate better. I'm trying to remain grateful that parts are even available.
Problem #2: When I bring RPM up to about 2K & release the throttle, the engine almost returns to idle, but then sputters & dies. Re-starts just fine. On initial start the Scanmaster displayed MAL #34 MAF Low Signal, but it cleared upon re-start & has not reappeared. I have a 3.5" LS1 MAF (plastic housing by Standard) & a MAF Translator. This is new equipment for me. The dip switches are On-On-On-Off. I have not attempted any adjustments yet.
Today was initial start, run a minute or two & shut-down, check levels & look for leaks. Engine started on first attempt, no drama. Re-start & increase run time, vary RPM & heat cycle several times.
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« on: September 16 2021, 06:34:01 PM »
Recently installed a rebuilt Steve Monroe 62mm Throttle Body. Not the original TB, but I am using the original TPS. Battery has been in storage & is reading 11.9-12V. Battery Tender is bringing it back up to charge. Attempted to set TPS with Scanmaster. Numbers are very low. 30 is the best low setting so far.
How much, if any, does battery voltage affect setting the TPS?
While operating the throttle linkage by hand to full throttle, it appears that the throttle blade may not be quite a full 90 degrees open. May be an illusion, can't tell for sure. Appears that the lever contacting the throttle body casting would require relieving to open any further. Lever & linkage from original TB & swapped over to rebuilt TB.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you.
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« on: September 08 2021, 04:12:35 PM »
Need to replace the vacuum hoses & seeking recommendation s on proper tubing. I have some of Kirban's tubing but it is rated to 1 Bar. I'm thinking 3 Bar or better would be a wiser choice. I bought some silicone tubing but the wall thickness will not allow installation at the throttle body vacuum block, plus it breaks fairly easy.
Thanks
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« on: September 01 2021, 08:07:38 PM »
Thoughts on the use of a gasket between exhaust header flange & the head?
No gasket?
Copper gasket?
High-temp RTV?
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« on: August 29 2021, 05:05:29 PM »
Is this part available through local auto parts stores or vendors?
What is the part name & function?
Thanks
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« on: July 09 2021, 04:14:28 PM »
136K miles & the heads are off. Thinking about replacing the valves while I have it apart. Seeking advice on make, material & type of valves to use.
Is there much of an option for larger valves? Doesn't look like there is much room between them.
How often are valve stem seals installed on the exhaust valves?
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« on: June 26 2021, 11:51:30 AM »
Removed my headers & see the crack on the rear tube on the driver side header. Haven't really examined both very closely yet. What should I be looking for? I've heard mention of cutting the mounting flange & creating clearance for expansion & contraction. Also heard of an additional brace welded in. Are the heat shields typically cut off & then tacked back on after repairs/modifications? I have a spare set of heads to bolt up to.
O2 sensor bung repair? My O2 sensor has been cross threaded. I chased the threads, but I believe it has probably been done before. The O2 sensor will not thread in & seat flush. Any reason a new bung couldn't be positioned about 90 degrees away from the original one? I need to mock it up before selecting a final position, but I'm thinking there should be a spot available with better access for sensor replacement.
Thank you.
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« on: June 24 2021, 11:33:11 PM »
I need 1 or a couple of OEM valve stem locks. Lost one off one of my exhaust valves & cannot find it. If you know the correct size & a source, I'd really appreciate the info.
Thank you.
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« on: June 16 2021, 03:48:57 PM »
Who makes a 3" DP (internal waste-gate) that provides clearance between top of pipe & the bottom of the A/C heater box?
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