IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Be4u on May 04 2005, 11:39:24 PM
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bore cylinders
2 steel caps & block girdle + crank scraper
performance valve job
port match and bowl work heads
max high flow heads
mod oil pump
cp forged pistons/rings
214/210 Ductile iron roller cam
port match intake
eagle forged crank
JW flexplate
BHJ harmonic balancer
ARP rod bolts
main and head studs
Rollermaster chain set
Roller rockers w/stud kit and valve covers
rjc deep oil pan
billet rods
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Holy shit...
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It's really sad that you're gonna waste all that money. You could get out of AutoZone for $15 for a fart can and a 'Type R' sticker and produce WAY more power.
.......looks good, man! (Seething Envy)
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Am I forgetting anything? I was going to get all four caps but I guess it's a waste of money.
Do y'all think I'll be able to run 18#'s of boost, 93gas and coast through a 1/4 mile in about 10.5 seconds with no problems? Thats what I want. I dont want to crank it up and get crazy. Maybe just once with some help tuning perfectly(if thats possible). I just want a bad ass engine that I shouldnt have to vorry about for 20 years. Since my cars fucked this makes me feel better about it.
BTW, I'm kinda scared of it. My girl says that she'll race it for me. LoL. OK!!!!! She's a speed freak but I dont think she understands what is about to happen. I have to definatly get a roll bar to keep her safe. She wants to pop a fuckin' wheelie so bad. Good luck to her!!!
Sylvan, I'm definatly going to change turbos. Your first on the list, granitestgn is second. It may be a few months though....if your still interested. I have to talk to Taffy first. The turbo has play. It's only been on the car for what....9 months? & for 7 months the car wasnt even driven. When I first put it on I had to call Taffy and ask him about the screetching sound that I heard. I've only heard it about 5 times. It wouldnt do it all the time. The good news is that the turbo is still under warranty. While removing the engine I checked the shaft play and there is zero in and out play. Side to side play is probably .010.
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No Alcohol injection?
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I have an alkycontrol pac installed. It'll be used. Maybe bump the boost to 20#'s? I guess I can sell the "got 25 psi?" stickers I got from Dceptcn. eBay $5
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Am I forgetting anything? I was going to get all four caps but I guess it's a waste of money.
Do y'all think I'll be able to run 18#'s of boost, 93gas and coast through a 1/4 mile in about 10.5 seconds with no problems? Thats what I want. I dont want to crank it up and get crazy. Maybe just once with some help tuning perfectly(if thats possible). I just want a bad ass engine that I shouldnt have to vorry about for 20 years. Since my cars fucked this makes me feel better about it.
BTW, I'm kinda scared of it. My girl says that she'll race it for me. LoL. OK!!!!! She's a speed freak but I dont think she understands what is about to happen. I have to definatly get a roll bar to keep her safe. She wants to pop a fuckin' wheelie so bad. Good luck to her!!!
Sylvan, I'm definatly going to change turbos. Your first on the list, granitestgn is second. It may be a few months though....if your still interested. I have to talk to Taffy first. The turbo has play. It's only been on the car for what....9 months? & for 7 months the car wasnt even driven. When I first put it on I had to call Taffy and ask him about the screetching sound that I heard. I've only heard it about 5 times. It wouldnt do it all the time. The good news is that the turbo is still under warranty. While removing the engine I checked the shaft play and there is zero in and out play. Side to side play is probably .010.
FWIW, I run 22lbs on 93oct. w/ little to no knock. Ironically I'm building nearly the same engine. I've got all but the rear main caps in billet. I bought a TE-44 from
Jay C. that I'm going to use on the new engine.
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Are you building it yourself?
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Get a bigger cam, a 206 is good for a stock engine with untouched heads and intake. Go up to like a 214 or something. What kind of torque converter are you getting?
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I run 20 pounds of boost...you should be able to do better than 18.
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I'll have to ask him about the cam. Thanks for bringing that up.
I have a vigilante 3500 stall converter. I'm going to step my turbo up to a 67 or 70.
Gordy, are you using alky? I will be. 20#'s should be fine for me. I just dont want to get crazy. I want this engine to last for a loooong time.
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Robert, run a thread on the boards about the ideal cam size. I've heard from many that it's easy to over-cam these cars.....then again, others say that's horseshit. I went with a 202 cam and am very happy with the results: extra pull (especially on the high end) without a loping idle.
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Robert, run a thread on the boards about the ideal cam size. I've heard from many that it's easy to over-cam these cars.....then again, others say that's horseshit. I went with a 202 cam and am very happy with the results: extra pull (especially on the high end) without a loping idle.
Nick and I havent talked about the cam size yet. I'm just going to go with what he suggests. What questions should I ask him? I'm definatly going to research it now that it's brought up.
Yesterday I was trying to figure out fuel pumps and fuel lines. Sounds simple but I'm a little confused. I'm thinking -10 braided line, -6 braided return with a Weldon 2015 pump. Anyone know anything about the pumps? Is the 2015 going to be too much?
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If you're going to get a roller cam you can run high pressure valve springs and a wicked ass cam profile. Might as well if you're going to spend that much on a conversion. Your car is goign to have some high end pull. I've been looking at an Isky 208/208 myself.
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I need to find a cam website...cam 101 or something. I dont know crap about cams or spring pressure. Last time I talked to Nick about springs he said 135#'s.
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I run an SMC alcohol setup...
I'm going with a 214/214 hydraulic cam for my motor.
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Check these out:
http://hotrod.com/techarticles/113_0209_cam/
http://hotrod.com/techarticles/113_9811_cam/
http://hotrod.com/techarticles/113_9804_cam/
http://hotrod.com/techarticles/113_9604_cam/
and then look at www.iskycams.c om They have one hell of a tech section.
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Gordy, what else are you going to have done? Whats your build now. Is it a secret? :girl:
The hotrod links are greek. The iskycams is good! Lots to read and learn about. I think I may be able to figure some stuff out! Thanks!!!! :wtg:
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Robert, we need an update here.
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Just found out today that the cam will probably be a 214/210.
I ended up getting billet rods and the RJC oil pan too.
This summer I expected to invest my money. I didnt expect to have a motor built. I'm really starting to get into this. I have a feeling I'm going to be happy I did it.
Tomorrow I'll be pulling the motor. I've got things working against me though. I bought a pull strap from hrpartsnstuff. Then it clicked that I need it on wednesday. Called them yesterday and left a messege with my delima. Paul Ferry emailed me his private #. Well, it's being overnighted. If UPS does its job It'll be here tomorrow.
I found out monday that about 10 people are comming over. It's turned into a cookout.
I have one question. My tranny is still attached to the motor. Other than the ground wires, tranny and turbo the engine is unhooked. I want to get this strait. If I pull the engine up enough to clear the motor mounts that wont strain the tranny right? Then just unbolt the tranny. I'm worried about the guide pins too. Any input?
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Dude, if I was you I'd take the struts off the hood or take the whole damn thing off and pull the motor with the tranny. Put down plenty of blankets to protect your header panel, fenders, etc. When you pull your driveshaft have a big plastic bac and some zip ties ready because your tranny will start bleeding out of the tailshaft. Put the bag over with a quickness and zip that bitch on there. If you do it this way, don't forget the TV cable, shift linkage, TCC switch harness and speedo cable.
If you're heart set on disconnecting the motor from the tranny first, I'd say support the tranny with jack stands and wood and then get at your bellhousing bolts. Don't forget the TV cable on the passenger side! Don't forget your flexplate either (personal experiance...). Take your coil pack off too, just in case the engine rocks back against the firewall.
I demand photos!
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Don't forget the TV cable on the passenger side! Don't forget your flexplate either (personal experiance...).
I demand photos!
Do you mean the tranny dipstick? Wait, that connected to the bellhousing. What TV cable on the pass side? I'll definatly look for it tomorrow. Wheres the flexplate? I probably know, I just dont know what it's called or I call it something different.
Hopefully I'll update photos throught the day. I'm hoping we dont get rained out and everything else falls into place. I aint got a pallat, engine hoist or the pullstrap.
The pull strap goes through the intake manafold under the plenum. How scary is that?
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Oh Jesus, you're insane. Anyway, the TV cable is the throttle valve cable, going from the side of the throttle body next to the throttle cable all the way down to the same area as the tranny cooling lines on the tranny. It has a little 8 or 10mm bolt holding it in, take the bolt off and pull the cable out. It's a slip fit onto a little hook in your tranny.
If you decide to take the trans with it as one unit, disconnect the tranny cooler lines from the tranny, or you'll be in a world of shit.
Flexplate is the technical name for the flywheel.
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Ok, I got the tv cable undone. I thought you were talking about a secret cable that I didnt know about. This is a new thing for me so I expect little monsters to be hiding around every corner.
I should have prepared to pull it all as one unit. Too many people are telling me to do it. You never know, you may see a pic of the engine and tranny. I'm just scared that the intake manafold will break. LoL.
Your saying to take off the flexplate/flywheel so it dont get damaged?
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I'm saying pull off the three bolts connecting it to the torque converter, you don't want to trash your input shaft. I would take off the intake and grab it with a chain from head to head myself. Make sure to post pictures before you lift on it man. And take your fuel rail off, don't want that getting damaged.
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Ohyeah. I unbolted the converter the same time I unbolted the dust cover.
I used the pullstrap without any problems. (as you can see) I left the fuel rail on and just tucked the strap between the rail and the plenum. It looked like it would be a bitch but I went through the drivers side and used a screwdriver to pull it throug the pass side.
The pull strap is great! Very easy to deal with. No issues. Cake.
The ONLY thing I didnt do is disconnect the little hose that goes from the...ummm...m at? to the water hose that goes to the firewall. I'm drunk.
I didnt pull the tranny. I'll try it next time but I think pulling just the engine is the way to go. I may say that now but I'll give you a final answer after I get the engine back and installed. My opinion may change.
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More pics
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more piics
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Hers a crappy pic of my ramchargers dual fans.
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It's beautiful thing isn't it? Now get a wrench and attach it to your bellhousing using a nut and bolt and swing the wrench doen to hold your torque converter in place.
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His pink torque converter at that ! :rofl;
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His pink torque converter at that !
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Did you send this link to Nick?
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Did you send this link to Nick?
Nah, but he does know that the engine is in transit.
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Sup robert, i thought id check out how you were coming along on this could you pm me with the details of how much it cost with shipping and everything...I m looking to do the same thing minus roller and steel crank(dont have much money so Im kinda fucked at this time, i loaned my bro. 1400 for a turbo kit and for his stang that i helped him buy he better let me drive that bastard).
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Thanks Gary! I now have RJC pullies. I still need to get the power steering pully. I'm scared to use a puller and even more scared to put it back on. I dont know ehat I'm going to do with my altenator yet. Maybe RJC, maybe not.
My power steering pump looks like shit!
New tstat housing, ss fuel lines, rjc pullies.
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more
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Lookin good!! (nice pulleys btw)
:prayer:
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Damn.