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Messages - kjhansen
61
« on: June 21 2021, 06:30:25 PM »
This must be a weak ground, I would think. But where is the ground? The right side lights work fine.
Keith
62
« on: June 21 2021, 06:23:43 PM »
I ordered a 3" downpipe from RJC about 8 weeks ago. It's still not made, much less delivered.
63
« on: June 21 2021, 06:22:52 PM »
I ordered a heat shield from Jegs. We'll see if that helps.
64
« on: June 16 2021, 04:12:49 PM »
It was actually a mechanic at the body shop (they do mechanical work too) that jumped the starter motor. Put a jack under the frame and slid right under with no jack stand. Braver man than I am.
At 71 I don't crawl around under cars anymore.
Anyway, I went out to the barn just now where I parked the car, and it cranked right up.
Hmm.
I'm ok with a new starter motor, but does anybody sell a heat shield to go on our cars?
Keith
65
« on: June 16 2021, 01:46:31 PM »
Hot day here in Missouri--about 90. Just tooled around town with a/c on. Coolant temp didn't go over 190. Stopped at a body shop to see if they could adjust the driver's side window. Then car wouldn't start. It wouldn't click or make any noise. Scanmaster said there was 12v from the battery. Tried jumping across the starter, which spun the motor but didn't engage the bendix. Poked around under the hood checking for loose wires... none. Looked under the dash for bad fuses, lose wires, etc., and no problems seen. Tried both Park and Neutral, wouldn't start in either one. Worked on it for 30-40 minutes. Finally gave up and called my wife to come and get me. Got in the car and tried to start it one more time and it fired right up.
I've owned another TR before and took it to San Antonio, TX with me for 3 years. It gets hotter in San Antonio than it does here and I never had a heat-soak problem there, and it was my every-day driver and Friday night drag racer. Of course this is a different car and I don't know how old the starter/bendix combo is. I do know that it's got a 3" downpipe that goes fairly close to the starter, but so did my old car.
Anybody have any problems like this? Won't start when it's really hot?
Also, different topic, I put a new regulator and motor in the DS window a while ago. The old one rolled up and down with jerks and bumps and wouldn't close all the way if the door was closed. Now the new one rolls up and down jerkily and won't shut all the way if the door is closed--which was why I was at the body shop in the first place. They lubricated the rubber seals, but that didn't help. Any thoughts?
Keith
66
« on: June 16 2021, 01:33:22 PM »
Got the seat extenders--just 2 inches but it made a world of difference. Fixed.
67
« on: May 03 2021, 02:46:59 PM »
Thanks.
68
« on: April 29 2021, 11:09:32 PM »
Not a TA downpipe unfortunately. It was bought 10 years ago from Kirban, and they don't even remember who their source was back then. Anyway, got it loose, sort of. It will move but has to be forced both ways with a pair of vice-grips. Looks like the shaft is coming apart in the hole. Time for a new downpipe.
69
« on: April 28 2021, 10:20:16 PM »
So I disconnected the tube from the turbo to the wastegate controller and blew in it and sucked on it. I couldn't blow hard enough to move the arm. I connected a 12v tire pump to it and it moved the arm easily. Sucking on it didn't show any leak. However, when I hooked it all back up and attached the arm back on the wastegate lever and applied pressure from the 12v tire pump, the arm wouldn't move at all. The wastegate is locked up. I'm going to have to remove the downpipe and see what's going on.
Or live with 30psi boost. Hey, I've been doing it for 8 months now.
Keith
70
« on: April 28 2021, 12:37:12 PM »
I'll give it a try.
Keith
71
« on: April 27 2021, 05:27:56 PM »
It's a wonder I didn't blow it up. When I found out the tube was disconnected (today) I connected it and did a WOT run, but just in 2nd gear. Even with the tube connected the gauge showed 29psi (!!!!) before I backed off. No audible knock (!!), but Scanmaster replay showed it had a high of 4 degrees of retard during that run. I've been driving it around this way for months! Fortunately, not doing many WOT blasts. At first I was so focused on controlling the car during the WOT blasts that I did do that I had no time to watch the boost gauge, which is on the a-pillar. I mean, the thing went so hard it was startling and would go sideways if you weren't careful. Not surprising at probably 30+psi. I'm still not a member of the DOTC Club though.
Gotta tell ya, that much power is addicting. I hate to but I have to give it up, I know, but it was fun while it lasted, and engine is still together!
However, I'm not sure I can adjust the boost down. The wastegate doesn't seem to want to move at all (see point 3 in original message) with the wastegate rod disconnected. I guess I need to take the turbo off, which I don't like to do. It's when I replaced the turbo on my other car that I started having problems. Couldn't get the exhaust-to-turbo gasket to seal properly after that. Probably the cheap aftermarket gaskets I bought.
And I used to be one of those guys with an aquarium valve... looked tacky but sorta worked.
Keith
72
« on: April 27 2021, 02:26:10 PM »
Having nothing better to do during this rainy weather, I was closely inspecting the boost control system on my TR.
First: the wastegate control valve/solenoid was not attached to anything except its wires.
Well, it is NOT the stock turbo, it's a Precision Turbo PTE 5858 and there is a tube running from it down under it towards the wastegate controller. So, obviously the stock wastegate valve thing is out of the loop now. However...
Second: The tube running from the compressor side of the turbo and just long enough to reach around it and hook to the wastegate controller wasn't connected to anything either. I assume it was supposed to be attached to the wastegate controller?
Third: I checked the adjustable rod from the wastegate controller to the wastegate. There didn't seem to be any more threads left to tighten it up. But I popped the clip off at the swivel and removed the rod from the pin to check it out. It seems to be almost all the way back--maybe one or two threads showing. Oh well. But after I took it off, I tried to move the wastegate swivel and it would not move either direction. Now, I admit it's been 12 years since I fooled with my first Turbo Regal, but I seem to remember that you could swivel that swivel. I mean, it's the wastegate. How does it open if it won't move? This is obviously not the stock system, and I don't know how it works, although it seems to work. I understand how the stock system works, but this appears to be different. I called Precision Turbo, but just got voice mail. If anybody could explain I'd appreciate it.
Keith
73
« on: April 22 2021, 02:21:49 PM »
Weirdness. I was almost ready to spring for a new torque converter when THIS ONE STARTED WORKING.
I've had the car for 8 months now and the tc has NEVER locked up. And now it does. Cars don't fix themselves. What could have happened?
Should I name this car Christine?
Maybe I should wait until it works every day for a week or something.
Keith
74
« on: April 21 2021, 06:03:49 PM »
So... not good news. I had a reputable local transmission shop check out the no-lock-up condition of my torque converter. The electrics all checked out fine, from the brake pedal to the solenoid. The converter clutch itself, however, is shredded, with the clutch material all over the transmission pan (and I'm assuming also up in the transmission). So I contacted Full Throttle Speed because they are the ones who sold the TC to the guy I bought the car from. It was delivered to him in March of 2020 and has a 1 year warranty, so, too bad, so sad, you snooze, you lose. Never mind that the TC clutch was bad when I bought the car back in September. So I contacted Performance Torque Converters (PTC) who made the TC, but they haven't answered yet. My assumption is that they'll say the same thing. Times up, warranty is over, we didn't sell the TC to the previous owner, etc. Sorry, too bad, so sad. I know enough to know that the seller, a private individual, has no liability. He never said the TC clutch was good and in any case, #1 rule in buying a used car from a private individual, let the buyer beware. I guess I didn't beware enough.
So I guess the bottom line is that I'm looking for a good torque converter, equivalent to the PTC 10-700-27 LU S. I'm not racing anymore (at least not at a dragstrip), but I want a good TC that will stand up for more than a few months.
I'm not too happy with PTC, although they may change my mind, depending on how they reply to my message. I've read good things about Dave Husek TCs but they are pricey. Billy Anderson at Performance Automotive East in Maryland claims his lock-up torque convertors are better than PTC's, although he recommends their non-lock-up TCs if you want non-lock-up. His are pricey too. That's not necessarily a stumbling block, but expensive is relative, I know. These two are just under $1000 each and price doesn't necessarily equal quality. Plus I've seen others for over $3K, which IS too much.
The car is tuned for alcohol injection, has the basic fuel/air stuff (more powerful fuel pump, adustable FPR, big K&N air filter), has a TurboTweak 5.7 chip with matching TT 42lb injectors, a Precision Turbo 5858 turbo, 3" MAF pipe with LT1 MAF sensor and translator, 3" downpipe into a cutout pipe that flows into a 3" Pypes dual exhaust (Race Pro). Lots of other stuff, but those are the basic engine bolt-ons. So, according to the previous owner, tuned for the 2800rpm stall PTC lock-up converter.
Bottom line: I've been out of the TR game for too long to know who makes the best torque converters that are a balance of performance, durability and price. Any recommendation s?
Keith
75
« on: April 09 2021, 06:04:52 PM »
I found some. Only two inch extension, but what a difference it made. Much better. Case closed.
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