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Messages - kjhansen
31
« on: December 19 2021, 12:43:45 PM »
Is the last one metal? I don't remember anything with a big heatsink
No, it's plastic.
32
« on: December 19 2021, 12:41:43 PM »
Turns out that the green box in the first message IS a vehicle speed sensor. Probably replaced because the cluster was replaced and the speedometer now goes to 145 instead of 85. So Daveismissing got that one right.
33
« on: December 18 2021, 11:11:03 PM »
Here's a couple more.
34
« on: December 18 2021, 11:07:06 PM »
The guy who sold me my Regal sent along boxes of extra parts, including mufflers, exhaust manifolds, and lots of miscellaneous things. I don't even know what some of them are, as they are unlabeled. In fact I don't even know if they are car parts. Hmm. So here's a couple to start with. See pictures.
Keith
35
« on: December 18 2021, 10:49:46 PM »
Not yet. Will do.
36
« on: December 18 2021, 05:18:33 PM »
While your list doesn't seem "narrow," it's a lot narrower than "it could be anything." So, thank you. Work to do!
Keith
37
« on: December 18 2021, 04:16:57 PM »
So I fixed the leak from the passenger side valve cover gasket. But the car is still leaking oil. I got the oil leak detection kit, but it's not much help, other than the fact that I don't see oil coming out from under that valve cover. The leak appears to be coming from somewhere above the front brace that connects the frame rails in front of the deep part of the oil pan. I tried to take a picture through the yellow glasses and with the UV flashlight aimed at the dyed oil, but that didn't work out so well--mostly because I didn't have enough hands and also probably due to the limitations of the telephone camera. I've attached it anyway. The bright yellow is the general area of the leak. It isn't a very good representation as the actual bright yellow is much smaller and mostly on the vertical back of the crossmember. Any thoughts?
Keith
38
« on: December 18 2021, 03:51:52 PM »
There always seems to be a next problem doesn't there? In this case, I've stopped the oil leak from the passenger side valve cover gasket, but it's still leaking oil from somewhere else. Look for a new thread!
Keith
39
« on: December 12 2021, 09:51:52 AM »
Will do. Weather is still holding pretty warm for December though. January will be cooooolllllddd d
40
« on: December 11 2021, 06:54:50 PM »
It's hardwired into the TPS connector.
41
« on: December 11 2021, 04:30:16 PM »
Tried snipping the wires. That took the TPS out of the computer loop. Putting the TEC back in fixed the problem. What did I do wrong?
42
« on: December 11 2021, 04:29:01 PM »
Well, I decided to struggle with the back bolt. I couldn't get the heat shield off. There's a screw holding the bottom of it to the plastic, and that screw is invisible from under the hood. I managed to get the little 3/16" hex head wrench (it's only about 3/4" long with a 1/4" base) into the bolt by using a McDonalds straw. The base of the little wrench fit right into the straw. I pushed it down until it touched the bolt, then reached in there with a long screwdriver and pushed it into the hole on the top of the bolt. Then pressing against the little 3/16" wrench head with the screwdriver to hold it in place, I slid the straw right off. Then I tightened it with a 1/4" open end wrench. I have pretty thin hands and arms, so I was able to get down in there.
NEXT TIME, if there is a next time, I'm going to epoxy the little wrench into the bolt and just leave it there. In any case, I got it all back together and it doesn't leak any more. Whew. That was a lot of work.
However, the heater doesn't blow hot air either. It must have a bubble of air trapped in the heater core, or else the vacuum operated valve isn't working. Ah well, more diagnostics.
I also followed your advice, Steve, and snipped the wires to the TPS TEC. Big mistake. The TPS itself quit working altogether. Apparently, the circuit carrying TPS voltage goes through the TEC and then back to the computer somehow. I stripped and twisted and taped the TEC back in, and the TPS reads again (and it was already set to the correct voltage) but before I solder and shrink wrap, I would like to know if that's my only option. Obviously simply snipping the wires to the TEC doesn't work.
And no, I didn't snip the wires to the computer from the TPS.
Keith
43
« on: December 10 2021, 09:22:22 AM »
I removed the flare nut that held heater tubes to the water pump. It really didn't want to come off and I was just rounding the edges using my 1" open end wrench, so I cut the tube just in front of the nut with my Dremel tool and a cutting wheel and removed the tubes. This wasn't quite as easy as it sounds. I had to cut off one of the little tubes attached to the bigger tube, and also remove the engine lift hook bolted just to manifold just to the right of the flare nut. I don't remember my last Regal having the engine lift hook there. Makes me wonder if this is the original engine... hmmm. Then I put a 1" socket and a breaker bar on the nut and it came right off. I had already ordered and received the new heater tubes. Almost ready to remove the valve cover and replace the gasket, which is the whole point of this exercise. Just have to remove the heat shield from the HVAC unit. All this is an unheated barn in Missouri in December. Although it's a pretty unusual December....
44
« on: December 05 2021, 01:47:55 PM »
OK, thanks
45
« on: December 04 2021, 05:16:48 PM »
Steve, in a previous message I said I had a TPS TEC (came on the car) and you said it's better to take it off. I quote:
"take the tps.tec off. It does nothing but it could screw up something. As long as the tps is set between .36-.46, it should not affect the idle once the engine has been shut off and restarted. Floating around while running will make it feel different, however.
The tps/tec was sold in a day before people understood how the ecm fuels the engine. It was a totally meaningless product but people did not know that then."
I've been meaning to take it off but haven't yet. It has wires running from the plug that goes into the TPS that are the same colors as the wires running INTO the TPS plug (see picture). Do I just cut the wires that go to the TPC TEC or do I need to find a stock TPS plug as this one is obviously modified for the TPS TEC.
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