Help Me With My Final Engine Build

[Scoobum]

I retire July 1st 2016...so this will be my final engine build...and here's what I have to work with. Only goal I have for the engine is to go 6.90 at 101 all day long on a 1.6 launch on 110 race gas.

.030 TRW Forged Pistons
Standard Bore 109 Block That'll Be Bored/Honed To Fit The TRW's
STD/STD Stock Stroke Crank
TA SI Aluminum Heads
Champion Stock Appearing Intake
6262 CEA Billet JB Turbo
Art Carr 16930 Convertor 3000-3200
Balanced Rotating Assembly

I wasn't impressed with the quality of the Felpro 9441 PT headgaskets I used on the current engine...so point me in the right direction for a quality set...and I don't want shim style head gaskets.

I also need help picking a cam for this setup....and also the brand of lifters.

Thanks in advance,

[good2win22]

Any street action?  Looks like what I have in mind. Short block I have is already assembled with those exact components minus my rod journals have been turned .010".  I haven't studied any time slips with that 210/215 that full throttle has but I like its specs.  Everything that I've read points me to either the morels or comp 885's but I haven't run them so it's just speculation coming from me.

[Charlief1]

Get hold of Earl and get some pistons with more compression Brad. Somewhere in the 9 to 9.5 range will work better and you won't have to worry about the valves kissing the pistons.

[Steve Wood]

Brad, I would go with a set of lightweight pistons that will give you 9.5-1 c.r.

For head gaskets, I think the Victor Reinz are better than what Feldpro gives us this day.  The other option is Cometic.    If you do not readily have a machine shop at hand that can put a glass like finish on the heads and block, Hylomar spray is the bees knees-better than copper coat in my opinion.

For a long-lived engine, I would select a cam that does not need to go over 6000 rpm to make power.  I don't think there is much power to be gained from roller lifters but there should be some margin of comfort with regard to wiping a lobe with strong springs.  I don't see the point of going over 210/210.  Let's face it, stock cams can run into the tens.  With rollers, I think I would go with the near zero preload lifters.

Between a cam that does not need to rev too high and lightweight pistons, you will take a lot of strain off the rods and crank.

[earlbrown]

Those .030 FMO pistons are HEAVY as hell and waaaay down in the hole.   If you don't want to deck the block, the only way to get any good efficiency is to deck the hell out of the block or run some custom $100 ea Cometic .027's (and even that won't get you all the way there).

With the gaskets, if you want to avoid MLS it's hard to be the plain ole VR gray graphite units. They make a big ass mess when they blow but they really take a beating before they let go.

[Scoobum]

VR gaskets and higher compression pistons...and a roller cam around 210. Let's talk about roller lifters...cuz I've read horror stories about some on the other board. I want durability...a nd I don't care if they're noisy.

Oh...this standard bore block I have has scratches in one cylinder. How big an overbore higher compression piston can I get?

[Scoobum]

Jason...NO street action. Up here...anythin g over 50 kilometers an hour over the posted speed limit (30 mph) is considered racing. Your car is immediately impounded...an d your license revoked for 30 days. You'd have to take on a second job to afford car insurance.

[Steve Wood]

VR gaskets and higher compression pistons...and a roller cam around 210. Let's talk about roller lifters...cuz I've read horror stories about some on the other board. I want durability...a nd I don't care if they're noisy.

Oh...this standard bore block I have has scratches in one cylinder. How big an overbore higher compression piston can I get?

A number of people have run .040" over.  I would rather stop at 0.030".  No science behind that number-just my preference.  I think I would want to sonic check the block before going more.  It really depends on the individual block.  I would bore it to get the cylinders the right shape and minimze the scratches.

With regard to lifters, I would ask Billy A.  I don't believe in asking more than one expert so I don't get confused.  Long ago, he told me the comp zero preload were good, but, I would ask him again today as that is several years ago.  At that time, some of the regular comp hydraulics were gummed up with shipping lube and needed to be taken apart and cleaned out so work right.  I am not up to date on any of the options, myself.

[Scoobum]

Steve, I lost track of Bill a long time ago. Do you know how I can reach him? A friend of mine with a machine shop locally can sonic check the block. After cracking two cylinders in that last block, I'd like to stay at.020. Joe's told me he's seen quite a few blocks at .030 crack cylinders...bu t none at .020.

[Steve Wood]

I sent him a message on Facebook.  No reply yet.

[motorhead]

Brad,

I would look into some slow leak down hydraulic roller lifters, and specing a cam specifically designed for your combination over buying an off-the-shelf grind (using outdated technology, theory, lobes, etc).  Getting your valve events (and supporting parts) right will be the difference.

[earlbrown]

Oh...this standard bore block I have has scratches in one cylinder. How big an overbore higher compression piston can I get?

5.500" is as big as mine can go.   

With a 22cc inverted dome that should give good compression (after you figure out how to make them overlap of course )