Pending....

[phil_long]

a data point: 93 octane, stock chip and injectors- I don't see any retard.

Thats what I was hoping to see Dave. I do have a question though.  How big of a role do the spark plugs really play?  I've had the plugs on there for about 4-5 years, and if my memory serves me correctly, my dad didnt put the stock plugs on there. I believe he put on some rapid fires.  Thanks for the responses

[daveismissing]

I suppose I need to add that is at stock boost levels with a stock turbo.

[phil_long]

Which is what's installed!! Lol. I have to check that DS motor mount Steve mentioned.

[phil_long]

Just ordered the injectors/chip.  Let you guys know after I get it installed whenever it gets here. 

[Steve Wood]

if it is not already fastened to the rail, tie wrap the injector harness to the rail so the connectors are by the correct injector so that when you pull an injector out of the rail, you can stick the new one right back in and reconnect the harness.  Main thing to remember is to put some vaseline or grease on the o rings top and bottom so they don't get nicked during install....and be sure you don't pinch the the injector harness on the coil bracket or egr...keep it away from the egr so it cannot get burned and short out

[phil_long]

That makes sense.  Got it. And sense the EGR is no longer used, what should I do with that once the chip is installed? Leave it be? And I need to know EXACTLY what plugs to get and what to gap them at?  thanks

[Steve Wood]

Leave it be....

AC CR43TS or R43TS
Autolite 24
NGK UR5

For up to 20psi of boost...gap all at a tight 0.035"

Ignore everyone that says 028, 030, 032....they are living on folk lore

[Steve Wood]

If running above 20 psi...then change the 43 to 42 on the AC
go to 23 on the Autolites,
keep the ur5s on the NGK....still all at .035"

[phil_long]

Cool.  I hope to be in business soon.  Never understood the theory of the spark plugs and diff in them(gapping, etc) but i'm not too worried.  Especially now that I know what to get.  Thanks

[phil_long]

Soooo, is the motor suppose to not move at all?  Or just not a lot?

[Steve Wood]

If you mean move around while it is idling....very little if the mounts are in good condition and the engine is running properly

[Steve Wood]

get the rapid fires out of the engine

[phil_long]

getting those out this morning.  And i was referring to when I have the E-brake pressed firmly and revving up to 1200 rpms in drive.  thanks.  I drove the car last night, gave it another WOT run for about 2 sec.  O2's 898 with 6.2 KR.  Got to my destination.  turned the car off.  car wouldnt start.  Lol. My car always turn over a lot when I start it up.  Between how rich it's running and me increasing the richness at idle to get my BLM's down, in addition to the old rapid fires thats on there, I think the plugs are fouled out.  Couldnt do ANY tests last night because b/c i wasnt home.  I plan on going through the NO START diagnosis later on today.  I got the plugs already though.  Keep you posted.

[phil_long]

increasing the richness at idle through the translator is what I meant.  i was reading an article that explained how to foul out spark plugs(not that I WANT to do it).  article was reading that basically you can foul spark plugs due too running to rich or running too lean or worn valve seals and/or piston rings leaking oil. Either way I'm checking into it.  And again, I will keep you guys posted.  Im going to Memphis tonight so it probably wont be until sunday that I get a chance to REALLY diagnose the issue. 

[Steve Wood]

set the translator back to the default for idle...

that probably makes it rich all the way from idle up....

don't start it, or try to start it until you have done that....

Hopefully,  you will have the new injectors and chips and we can try to get it nailed down better.

When you revved it up to 1200 with the brakes on, did the engine shift or jump up a bit?  Sign of a bad engine mount on the drivers side