High BLMs

[Steve Wood]

Well, you have demonstrated the problem by changing fuel pressure and backed it up by changing the chip.  Not sure what else is required, but, I hope you find peace and move on to something more funner...

[$1987 GN$]

Maybe your bin was corrupt or the chip did not write correctly.


AJ___

[Dont Panic]

 I think if the chip was faulty it probably wouldn`t work at all, or it would work in limp home mode which would result in a rich condition (batch fire mode).   I had experience with a faulty computer in the past.  No matter what I did I couldn`t get the blms to come up.  Turned out to be a faulty computer that was running in limp home mode.  That one messed me up for a long time.

I will get more time in with the R93 chip.  Maybe a few times around the block was not enough time for the blms to settle.  Maybe I will use that one for my 2 hour drive on Sunday and see what happens.

[Just a Six?]

I have heard stories that some packages get the X-Ray Machine Treatment coming across the border? It's possible I guess??     
 

[Steve Wood]

red's chips are very crude, but if it gives you the right o2s and blms....or close, (his chips were notoriously rich) then you have your answer.

Since you bought your TT chip from Eric, then I am sure he will send you a replacement burned for the injectors...

[daveismissing]

You have a hex editor.... do you have a burner?

If so did you verify the checksum?


edit : PM Devon

[Dont Panic]

I am going to try out a 42lb TT chip from another member.  It is burned for a stock set-up though and not for a TE44.  I believe if I stay out of boost and just cruise around, the blms should be close to 128 with it, so I could at least use it for testing.

[Dont Panic]

Borrowed TT chip works good. Idle blm is 127, and all others are around 123-129. It must have been the chip all along. I will ask Eric to send me another chip for my set-up.

[Steve Wood]

If you add some wot fuel, it should work fine with a TE44.   How much you add depends on boost.  If running, 16 psi or so, it may not need more fuel as that is basically the same flow out of a stock turbo.

Sometimes, you have to believe science and applied logic rather than trying to find some esoteric problem.  It has worked well for me 

[larrym]

Chips are funny things I had a similar problem when I installed a new extender chip, ( I really wanted the lean cruise feature) I had just installed a new cam at the same time. (always change 1 thing at a time makes things simpler to track down a potential problem) The BLM went really high into the 150s and I had a lean tip in problem. Checked everything welded up my headers changed vacuum lines  played with fuel pressure pulled my hair out installed another 02 sensor, used the block learn correction and added learned fuel and it was good but it was almost maxed out on the correction.
Finally I installed my old TT chip and all was good in the world BLMs were right where I liked to see them. I'm having the Extender chip adjusted so that I can use all the features it has available with out maxing the block learn correction.

[Dont Panic]

I finally got the car out of storage last summer and brought it to the house to work on, hooked it up to the computer and found high BLMS.  I started troubleshootin g, trying to figure out what was going on, and went on the forums and came across this thread.  Funny, I forgot most of what I had gone through 6 years ago.  So I called up Eric, and got a 5.7 chip.  This cleared up the BLMs during driving but I still had high BLMs at idle.  So I got into trouble shooting again.  I tried Seafoam, carb cleaner and propane with no luck, so I pressurized the intake using an inner tube to block off the turbo inlet, and putting compressed air into a vacuum line.  I found a major leak in the throttle body rotary cup seal and a leak in the EGR.  Also potential leaks in the injector o-rings.  I then pressurized the exhaust by putting a piece of the inner tube rubber between the downpipe and exhaust and pressurized it using a compression tester in the O2 bung location.  I found a pin hole in the crossover and a big leak at the crossover pipe to driverside header ball and socket joint. There was also a big leak at shaft for the waste gate puck which doesn't really matter but it was annoying because it was hard to build up pressure with air coming out of there.  I know this leak doesn't effect performance but do these shafts generally leak?  If not, maybe I should get a new elbow.


So from my experience, I could not for the life of me find the leaks until I pressurized the system and then it was obvious and all the leaks were found within minutes.  The method used was makeshift and I will figure out something better for future testing.


I welded up the crossover (after buying a mig welder, some gas - good excuse to buy more tools), and welded a new socket joint to the header and crossover.  The new socket joint is better but it still bubbles up with a soap test under pressure.  I will get a new throttle body as I can't seem to order the correct rotary cup seals with the metal outer here in Canada.  Perhaps I will go with a larger one while I am at it (likely Steve's 62 mm refurbished one).  My turbo spool up became a bit better after addressing some of the crossover issues but it still is not great.  Hopefully the intake leaks will help as well.


I'm also going to increase my intake diameter and either go with a new LS1 MAF or a SD setup, but I will create a new post on that topic to get some feedback.

[Scoobum]

Steve Monroes throttle bodies kick ass! Put one on my car...and the throttle response was instantly crisper. Steve knows I live outside of Toronto and the race season is short...so he sent me one so my car had zero downtime.

[daveismissing]

Steve will sell the seals as well IIRC

[Dont Panic]

I put the order in with Steve for one of his 62mm TBs.  My folks are snowbirds, so I'm trying to get whatever I need sent to them before they come back to Canada.

[Scoobum]

Gut the cat if you haven't already done so. Again...better throttle response...and turbos don't like back pressure. You can remove the 4 bolts...pull down the rest of the exhaust and break loose the mesh shit inside with a hammer and punch...and vacuum it out.