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Messages - ULYCYC
1
« on: February 13 2021, 03:56:24 PM »
Dont have to pull the intake. Pull off rocker arm assemblies and and check with a dial indicator. Put a pushrod on the shoulder of the lifter and measure total lift of each int and ext. If any are out of wack with the others that's your problem. It could be a lifter, lobe or valve problem. At that point you would have to pull the intake and inspect.
2
« on: February 13 2021, 02:59:04 PM »
Missing 100hp or $100 for makeup for a 60yr old women. Spending it in the kitchen would get better results...
new springs, converter and chips won't find the missing 100hp if basic issues aren't found and repaired as Steve mentioned
3
« on: February 12 2021, 07:17:58 AM »
A 35yr old stock tired intercooler as Steve mentioned could be half your problem. New one could knock off 4-5 tenths off your et.
4
« on: February 11 2021, 09:21:09 AM »
What stall speed is the converter advertised at? What is you footbrake stall rpm's. But before you blame the converter, the engine has to be running correct. A weak cylinder won't allow good converter test results.
5
« on: February 11 2021, 07:07:19 AM »
Your 60 ft's need to be 1.60 or better to hit the 11's with your combo. Too many things can cause your issue. I would start with compression check, bad tune setup, crack header, slow spool due to tune or bad turbo, trans and or converter issues. Get some powerlogger readings to post.
6
« on: February 10 2021, 06:26:23 PM »
You should be deep into the 11's with your combo, Unless your existing turbo is bad the new one wont make much difference.
7
« on: February 07 2021, 01:55:52 PM »
Magnavox is the original manufacture/supplier of the coil pack. Don't remember if it was 1st or 2nd design. Then I think GM/ AC Delco made them
8
« on: January 29 2021, 10:03:34 AM »
1.65 rockers will increase lift about .030 -.050 over stock rockers depending on how the new cam is degreed in and push rods set up.. Also if your block and heads were decked that will add to the final piston to valve clearance results. I did similar setup and had to flycut my JE pistons. For clearance.
The intake whether old or new needs to be port matched. This has to be done with a mock setup with the heads on your motor. This has nothing to do with porting for cfm flow. The headers should be done also with the new heads.
Driving on the street @ 25lbs of boost will blow up just as easy as being on the track at 25lbs of boost. Only real difference is stress on rear end and axles launching on a prepped sticky track. On the street you just smoke the tires.
9
« on: January 29 2021, 09:23:38 AM »
No!! fast street car not a track car us usually the hint to machine shops/builders that blame troubles are near when it blows up.
10
« on: January 16 2021, 09:00:03 AM »
Forget about the booster for now and make sure the hydraulics are good in the brake system. Master, proportioning valve, wheel cyls, calipers and rubber/hard lines have no air and working good. Make sure your rear brakes are adjusted and not hanging on a frozen emergency brake cable. After that check and make sure your booster rod is not too long and holding the booster down a little. It's been awhile but I think you need 1/4" free play but look it up.
11
« on: January 14 2021, 03:16:10 PM »
New one is around $600. Labor to make the old one near new condition a few hundred. But a new one should be checked by the machinist also. If you paying under $200 used Then I would say it's a good deal if it can be reconditioned and used for a daily driver under 500hp
12
« on: January 05 2021, 01:53:03 PM »
Dorman "help" Power Brake Booster Check Valves 80190 will work. All the major parts stores including Amazon and Summit carries it. Cost around $5.00 us
13
« on: November 30 2020, 05:21:10 PM »
Do what Earl said. If its off a hair it doesn't matter like fitting cove base moldings. That's the way we did things before the internet gurus gave everyone headaches.
14
« on: November 29 2020, 07:40:10 AM »
Damn - that Lesjöfors company has been in business since 1675.  The stagecoach drivers said they are best.
15
« on: November 27 2020, 08:21:30 AM »
OEM front and rear springs are constant rate. Back in the day MOOG 5606 was the choice for replacement. Now they and most others are garbage. They will need to be replaced often. I never heard of LESJÖFORS. Look around on other Gbody boards and see want others have success and happy with within the last year or two.
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