IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Be4u on December 11 2006, 10:05:50 AM
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RR, when you said "As for stroking (engines, that is), A 383 is a 350 bored .030 over with a 400 crank. The 400 crank has to have the mains turned down to fit in the 350 block. You can buy cranks that that have already been done. This also requires a piston with a different pin height to accomodate the different stroke."
What do you mean "have the mains turned down"?
We still havent figured out exactly what engine this is. I got a six digit number off the back drivers side top "887000". And the side passenger has a date code I believe, "5h11" that was above a clock looking thing. I've looked here http://www.mortec.com/location.htm and other sites but couldnt match any of the numbers up. Not even the intake number. I still have more numbers to look for.
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Well, look at this, the sizes of the journals on the mains and rods.
Gen.I, "Medium Journal", includes "Vortec" 305 and 350 thru '98 262...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 267...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 302...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 305...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 307...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 327...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 350...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10"
Gen.I, "Large Journal" 400...Mains-2.65"-rods-2.10"
The 400 crank is .20" bigger on the main journals. So you need to cut that down to 2.45" to fit in the 350 block. Rob's right about the rods too, the increased stroke might makes one of those big ass counterweights smack a piston. So usually people go up to a 6" rod. The stock 350 rod is 5.7" and the 400 is a little shorter than that I think.
Send us pics of the motor if you can.
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I have a book somewhere around the house that has
most of Chevies casting numbers. If I can find the book and that number,
I'll post what I find. We've built quite a few 383's at work.
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Is it true if you dont use it you lose it?
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IHADAV8 once. Then I sold it.
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Is it true if you dont use it you lose it?
Wrong forum, Pinhead ! :rofl;
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Heres some pics. Also, do you think it would be possible to build this engine ourselves? I believe we could but I dont want to mess it up. We'd take the block somewhere but what about putting the crank in and bolting the rods to the pistons? How hard is that?
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more pics
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more pics
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Definitely old school.
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Bigtime old school. It's in Pauls 74 Nova. He "thinks" it came out of a 74 Custom Delux Chevy pickup so that means it could have came out of a gremlin or even a pinto. lol. Runs good though. Paul abuses the hell out of it every Cruising the Coast and it's still kickin'.
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I'd be skeptical on whether or not its a 383. Sometimes people
who race circle track in the stock classes will cheat and build
something like that. But, I don't think thats the case there after
seeing an EGR valve with a 2 barrel intake. More than likely
its a basic 350. The circle track guys usually kill for the Canadian 2 barrel intakes
because they out flow the American ones. Somewhere along the line it got a set of headers. Probably does great burnouts with all that low end torque though.
Edit: You can also buy a complete kit to make a 383 from companies like Summit, Jegs, and PAW. Then all you need to do is have the block machined accordingly.
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There's nothing to building a 350. Tolerances aren't as critical as a Buick. Just get a good book and an even better machinist. You can have someone do you crank and rods, pistons, etc. That's called an assembled short block. The long block includes the heads, etc.
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RR, check this out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260070359820&rd=1,1
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That is a decent price. Check with them to find out how much for a complete short block. A road trip to TN may be fun too.
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Did you ever price the crate motors??? They are ready to run and are reasonable.
Check www.gmpartsdir ect.com
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Yeah but we want to build it ourselves...sa ves a little money unless we mess up lol :bigeyes;
What do y'all think about this? Would we want the dish pistons to drop the compression?
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Would we want the dish pistons to drop the compression?
Only if you are going to turbo it or supercharge it.
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No more than 9:1 compression on iron heads and 10-10:5 on aluminum heads. This is depends on your combustion chamber volume. What heads are you going to use? There's way to many small block variations out there. Usually it's 58, 64 and 72 cc's.
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I say go for it man. Building a 350 is way easier then building a turbo 6. With the right combo of heads and cam you should be fine. your clearances are a little looser also so you have some room for error.....kind a.
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No more than 9:1 compression on iron heads and 10-10:5 on aluminum heads. This is depends on your combustion chamber volume. What heads are you going to use? There's way to many small block variations out there. Usually it's 58, 64 and 72 cc's.
The 305 HO in the Nonte SS and Camaros were factory 9.5:1 with iron heads.
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Dont know what kind of heads yet....any suggestions? Any questions I should send the guy about this setup?
Oh, and DAMNIT! I forgot to add a link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150089255958&rd=1,1
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It would be nice to get an Eagle stroked Buick V6 shortblock for $1700!
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Are you going to juice the motor with nitrous? If so, those hyper pistons won't last. Seems like way too much $ though. I wouldn't pay $1,700 for a small block short block.
Try www.enginekits .com for deals on their balanced kits. Use all the money you save on a badass set of heads.
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That is a decent price. Check with them to find out how much for a complete short block. A road trip to TN may be fun too.
Too bad they are not close to us, I can have Bryan check on it for ya.
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Nah, I dont think nitrous would be involved.
I thought that short block was kinda high.
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I'm kinda confused on exactly what to buy.
He wants a 383 stroker and we want to build it ourselves. Street/Strip. We want to start with the short block and get that completed.
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Dont know what kind of heads yet....any suggestions? Any questions I should send the guy about this setup?
Oh, and DAMNIT! I forgot to add a link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150089255958&rd=1,1
You should be able to get one with forged pistons for that price.
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Yeah, assembled. I think you guys would be happier with the longevity of a professionally assembled short block vs. one you did yourself. Unless you just feel like doing it yourself. You can bolt the heads on for sure!
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We got a video and book to look at. Were going to actually decide if were going to build it or not after we watch the vid.
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Well go for it then! I assembled a 1978 Pontiac 400 and drove it for over 30,000 mi before I traded the TA for the T-Type. The machine balanced and blueprinted everything and I did the final assembly.
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You should be able to get one with forged pistons for that price.
That's what I was thinking. And a cam and chain, etc, etc. Hell, I think I can get a long block done for that much from scratch.
www.enginekits .com > stroker kits
383SK
POWERHOUSE
Chevrolet 383ci Stroker Kit
$499.00
105 LB
Product Description
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If you are wanting to build a 383 stroker then why get a short block? Why not just get the 350 block bare and go from there? Just curious.
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We want to build the short block.
Thanks Brian!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Whats the difference?
CR1 5.7" Rods
&
CR3 Rods
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Um... I THINK the CR3's are shotpeened and magnafluxed and come with ARP bolts. Call them to check it out. The price of the bolts alone is worth it to me.
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Oh, and as far as heads go, I like iron, but that's just me. I'd go with a ported set of production heads or Dart's 'Iron Eagles'. I've heard a lot of good about Racing Head Service (RHS) 'ProAction' heads too. If I had to choose aluminum, I like the Air Flow Research (AFR) heads because they're all CNC'd and have a 3/4" deck on them, because I'm paranoid of heads warping and gaskets blowing.
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Chevys have alot more head bolts than a Buick, and therefore aren't as vunerable
to blowing head gaskets.
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*puts hands over ears* LALALALALLALAL AA!!
Excellent point though! Hmm... that totally made me re-think Chevy heads now.
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what does this kit mean by "some machining required"?
http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=81
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what does this kit mean by "some machining required"?
http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=81
I think that they're referring to boring the block, and clearancing for the stroker crank.
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Ok, if I call them I'll ask.
Now, if we buy this kit and decide to buy a block already machined, would we need to still bring the block and rot assy to a shop for further machining?
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Ok, if I call them I'll ask.
Now, if we buy this kit and decide to buy a block already machined, would we need to still bring the block and rot assy to a shop for further machining?
Don't buy a block thats already machined. Buy the kit first, and then have the block machined. The cylinders must be bored to the specs of the piston manufacturer.
Different pistons require a different piston to bore clearance.
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Ok, I'm about to draw up a plan.
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clearencing the block is no big deal at all. The main thing you have to do is remove some material from the pan rails. Also, in the past I have had to slightly modify (hit with a hammer) the oil pan to make room for the last crank throw. One other thing to consider too ... depending on the camshaft's profile and design of connecting rods you might find that you will have to file some material off the top of the rod bolt. Good luck with the project.