IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
General => IHADAV8 Playground => Topic started by: larrym on November 09 2015, 12:59:12 AM
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So my car is a little rough in places, the PS rear is rotted pretty bad floors rear body mounts frame.
Ttop area is pretty rough too.
I picked up a shell and chassis from a buddy in exchange for me installing some floors. It's in really good shape and my plan is to pull the frame out and do what body work that needs to be done. Then get the frame stripped brace it up I might do a notch haven't decided.
Here it sits should have it separated next week end.
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That is the way to do it! Don't fight the rot, replace it. Good luck... and do the frame notch.
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Definately the way to go. Charlie has a frame that he's done a bunch of mods to. Maybe he will chime in with a list of things he's done
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And a link to his frame thread. It is pretty interesting.
I am liking the project. I was against TTops but the older I get the more I'd like more than just two windows down.
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Larry...call Dusty at PTC and go over frame notching with him. There's a right way and a wrong way...with the latter buckling the rear quarters on launch.
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And a link to his frame thread. It is pretty interesting.
I am liking the project. I was against TTops but the older I get the more I'd like more than just two windows down.
I have a T Top car...you don't want one.
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Larry...call Dusty at PTC and go over frame notching with him. There's a right way and a wrong way...with the latter buckling the rear quarters on launch.
Thanks Brad
I will try and talk to Dusty.
I have a buddy close by that's a pretty smart cookie that's going to help me out.
He did a 79 Malibu frame off that is sick if mine comes out half as good I will be stoked!
This all started after I broke thru the 11:50 barrier and I was thinking about a roll bar so I was good to 10:00.
Once I really started looking at what I had it became clear this was the route to go.
The roll bar should also help hold it all together. Ryan ( my buddy) like things stout his car runs mid 10s built to go deep into the 9s.
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And I wish it was a hard top too!
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Larry, I'm fairly certain a full cage is required to properly tie the frame notch into. Dusty will fill you in. You've got the car apart...may as well make it legal.
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So all but 1 body mount came out....
The one that didn't is right behind the drivers door. The channel is rotted it's the worse spot on the whole car.
We can lift it off as is just pulling what's left of the front suspension. We are having a lift party on the weekend set it on 4x4 and jack stands and drag the frame out!
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..
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Frame out and striped down.
Looks like I have 4 frame to body mounts to repair on the frame will know more after I clean it up.
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Larry...this is prolly a stupid question...but how do vehicles rust out when you guys don't see snow out there....and the roads don't get salted.
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We get salt on the roads airs full it too right on the ocean. Plus it's a rain forest....
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So I have a question about the body mount repair washers. Can they be laid on top and welded if all are done? Or should they be cut in?
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I thought your car was white, Larry? :chin:
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Oh it is white 😊 this is a replacement shell and frame. I plan to get it all fixed up and install a roll bar and then swap the pieces.
This way I can still drive it with less down time.
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If you have some good metal around the body mounts on the frame, I would sit them all on top. One weld around the washers and then grind the weld flush if needed. Everything "should" should line up body line wise as long as they are all torqued to the same value. Talk to Charlie about some frame stiffners that he has on his frame. Real slick!
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Yeah I plan on reinforcing it to stiffen it up. Here are the three worse pockets.
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Started welding the seams good thing I got a grinder it's been awhile and mig is new to me grew up on a stick welder....
I plan to box the channel and reinforce the LCA mounts plus mount a tube across the frame at the spring perches.
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I feel the same way Larry. Takes a few minutes to get back into the swing of it. Probably wouldn't be that way if we welded every day...
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I have the Mitchell frame dimensions print if you want to check anything
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Thanks Dave 😊 I end up measuring the body to locate the pocket under the AC
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I did find these
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http://dtekk.com/automotive/frame/Frame_dim_dtekk.JPG (http://dtekk.com/automotive/frame/Frame_dim_dtekk.JPG)
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Thanks Dave!
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Larry...keep the build pics comin'! :)
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So I have been keeping my self entertained for the most part. Got 2 pockets repaired and all the seams on the top from the front crossmember back done. I started fitting 4" x1/8 plate to box the frame. Found a spot on the DS rail that's tweaked any suggestions on how to tweak it back?
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I can't tell what is tweaked but for flat things I like my big crescent wrench and if needed a cheater pipe for leverage. Or maybe a pipe wrench of you can live with teeth marks in what you are bending.
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The bottom edge was tweaked picked up with my floor jack and whacked it a couple times with a hammer all good now.
Apparently I have to open up the hole I left to get that body mount in the middle one is backwards large portion of the bushing goes on the bottom ?
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So I was thinking of using these rather than bracing the stock LCA bracket.
https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/general-motors/g-box-lower-replacement/
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You could make those and save yourself about a hundred bucks
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I did consider that option wonder if my fab skills are up to it look simple enough.
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Those will really give you some options on setting the LCA level depending in your ride height. Take a look at http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/chevy.htm (http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/chevy.htm) for the upper bracket ideas. Lots of options with their brackets as well
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Cool thanks!
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Chanel all boxed.
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And here is why.... It would lift 1 side 8" before the other side came off the jack stand.
https://vimeo.com/147856167 (https://vimeo.com/147856167)
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LCA braced decided to keep it simple.
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Those will really give you some options on setting the LCA level depending in your ride height. Take a look at http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/chevy.htm (http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/chevy.htm) for the upper bracket ideas. Lots of options with their brackets as well
Wow, Jason that page is LOOOAADDDED(in my best ron white voice)with info. Thanks for posting it. I have to get bus0y measuring so mine can 60' like some of those.
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I used there upper relocation brackets and upper arms in the white T. Helped me center the rear axle under the car and dial in the preload on the right rear tire. I had MT streets on the car and had a best 60' of 1.59. I plan on putting the same upper brackets and arms on the limited along with a hellwig bar and some 28x9 slicks. First things first... Will be a moser axle swap. I'm looking at their 30 spline axles and posi
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I couldn't get to their site where they sold stuff. The link at their page was dead. I'll have to look into it.
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I used there upper relocation brackets and upper arms in the white T. Helped me center the rear axle under the car and dial in the preload on the right rear tire. I had MT streets on the car and had a best 60' of 1.59. I plan on putting the same upper brackets and arms on the limited along with a hellwig bar and some 28x9 slicks. First things first... Will be a moser axle swap. I'm looking at their 30 spline axles and posi
Helwig ARB is worth buying the links are a little hokey I had a problem with one they had me a replacement in 3 days no charge no questions.
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Your welding is looking good. :)
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Thanks Brad it's easier every pass 😃
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http://www.aggressiveauto.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SU00 (http://www.aggressiveauto.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SU00)
I'm wanting one of these. How big is the helwig bar?
And box the control arms.
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Helwig is a different desgn it bolts to the diff and has end links that bolt to the cross member.
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Hey Rich,
The problem with that bar is it is still bolted to the lower control arms. Hellwig and the HR bar clamp to the axle tubes and then to the frame. When installed and adjusted properly it really helps straighten the car out
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Car drives much better with it and it's adjustable 3 settings plus you can preload the PS so no air bag is required
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Got a little more done almost time for paint.
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A coat of POR15 flip it over do the top and run some lines.
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Looks good. :rock:
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Nice!
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Lookin good
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So got the frame finished of found the PS cross member mount needed a little help I had left it on while I was welding it up.
I cut a piece of plate and slide it under I attached it to the material I boxed the frame with for added support.
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Started to work on the floor the little hole under the window was more than I thought....
Cut it back and fit a piece of 18 ga sheet metal.
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Progress!
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Great thread!
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I made a patch panel for the floor and patched the hole by the seat belt mount.
The body mount is going to take some fabrication... ....
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Lookin' good! Keep the pics comin'!
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Ok remember I'm not a welder fabricator....
Patched the floor and made a channel would have welded it in but my hole saw was not up to the challenge.
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Less corrosion the better!