IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Forzfed on August 26 2015, 03:19:25 PM
-
Took the car for a spin last night and it died on me. The car has made a popping sound on me a few times out of the blue. Last night it made a popping sound again, drove for 2 blocks then it suddenly died. I put a brand new ECM in it to try and I put the ignition module and coil from my other car as well as checked all fuses.
What do you guys think? Crank sensor?
-
Oh lord.....
Blown fuse, corroded (dead) orange ECM wire, stripped timing set, bad cam sensor cap, crank sensor, overtightened module plug........
-
Fuel pump may have taken a dump, fuel filter clogged. Running lean causes bad stuff to happen
-
Nice to see I am not alone. So when you crank it there is no spark jumping to the head/header off an exposed spark plug/screw driver?
-
Nice to see I am not alone. So when you crank it there is no spark jumping to the head/header off an exposed spark plug/screw driver?
I should've asked that first. I've seen guys run a car without the actuator line hooked up and wonder why it was popping, Also seen a weak fuel pump be the cause of the popping
-
Fuel pump may have taken a dump, fuel filter clogged. Running lean causes bad stuff to happen
Fuel pump is brand new and I have lots of fuel pressure and oil pressure when I crank over the car.
-
Oh lord.....
Blown fuse, corroded (dead) orange ECM wire, stripped timing set, bad cam sensor cap, crank sensor, overtightened module plug........
Like I already said, the fuses are all good. But I have a double roller timing chain without the tensioner, I'm thinking it could be way to sloppy.
-
I went to Steves site...and if you have no spark or injector pulse...have a peek at the crank sensor. Steve has an entire no start tree...which has pulled my ass out of the fire on more than one occasion. :)
-
Oh lord.....
Blown fuse, corroded (dead) orange ECM wire, stripped timing set, bad cam sensor cap, crank sensor, overtightened module plug........
Like I already said, the fuses are all good. But I have a double roller timing chain without the tensioner, I'm thinking it could be way to sloppy.
Unlikely. I only say this because have had a double roller w/o a tensioner in my car since the day it hit the road back in 2002. It is more likely tied to something else. Plus, I don't want to see you do all that work. LOL!
-
No spark
How bout injector pulse?
Is the compression normal?
Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk
-
I haven't put a noid light on it but I don't smell any fuel, so I'm thinking not.
-
So, you have a gauge on it and can see pressure/hear the pump?
Is the cam sensor spinning with the cap off?
Coil pack has correct ohms across each coil?
No spark at the spark plug?
-
So, you have a gauge on it and can see pressure/hear the pump?
Is the cam sensor spinning with the cap off?
Coil pack has correct ohms across each coil?
No spark at the spark plug?
I have 45psi on the rail, did not check the cam sensor, I have the module and coil from my 14k car on it, and yes no spark at the spark plug. Couldn't find my noid light but the laptop show 10 to 12ms when spinning the car over.
-
Still 25yr old electrical pieces. Have em tested, put a meter across the coils.
-
Problem solved! Have a look.
-
Check your end play with a dial indicator.
-
I know. :( I was thinking that as soon as I tried putting the new sensor in and it touches the dampener. But that being said the old sensor is a few mm shorter and more so where broken.
-
When mine went out, it started with a strange ding sound. That was the reluctor wheel hitting the sensor. Good find!
-
I know. :( I was thinking that as soon as I tried putting the new sensor in and it touches the dampener. But that being said the old sensor is a few mm shorter and more so where broken.
If that was an original sensor, you'll be needing the bracket too. For some reason about 20 years ago the dimensions where changed and the 'upgraded' sensor needs a matching bracket.
-
Good info Earl...thanks. :)
-
If that was an original sensor, you'll be needing the bracket too. For some reason about 20 years ago the dimensions where changed and the 'upgraded' sensor needs a matching bracket.
I was hoping to just slip the new one in the old bracket but no go. So I took the old bracket off and it was identical to the one I had. So I have the same bracket and little taller crank position sensor. :chin:
-
The sensor that was on there measured 17.9 mm and there was no wear on the top of it other than the center section being taken out. The aftermarket one measured 20.5mm and I traded it in for another one that measured 20.1mm.
Does anyone know if the plastic v's form an electrical loop? If not then I should be able to file the top off so the after market one fits. I'm going to send Highway stars an email and see if they can measure the one they are selling for me.
-
Does anyone know if the plastic v's form an electrical loop?
It is a Hall effect sensor, so it depends where the magnetic field(s) are/managed.
According to this video both slots are active: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWYJhcVXw_M (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWYJhcVXw_M)
-
Does anyone know if the plastic v's form an electrical loop?
It is a Hall effect sensor, so it depends where the magnetic field(s) are/managed.
According to this video both slots are active: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWYJhcVXw_M (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWYJhcVXw_M)
That I know, but I want to know how far up the plastic slots it goes or if it goes right to the top. I might file one down for an experiment to see how far I can go before it doesn't work.
-
It would be pretty simple to test if you had another pigtail and could set up the power, ground, and signal (to a voltmeter) wires; and then just pass a length of metal through the slots to establish its sensitivity range up/down/in/out. Then modify.
-
It would be pretty simple to test if you had another pigtail and could set up the power, ground, and signal (to a voltmeter) wires; and then just pass a length of metal through the slots to establish its sensitivity range up/down/in/out. Then modify.
I can't think well, hungover. With the ignition on I will pass a metal through the slot and see if it activates the injectors. When I tested the plug in, you can hear it loud and clear. I'm thinking it probably isn't a good idea to file it. I just spoke to a fellow car club member and he has a factory crank sensor so I will grab that one and modify the other one just to see.