IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: TexasT on November 24 2014, 02:28:48 PM
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http://www.buickgn.com/fuelpumpsinjectorspage.htm (http://www.buickgn.com/fuelpumpsinjectorspage.htm)
Looking at the dw200
Anyone have experience? Something better?
TIA
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No matter what pump you name, you can find someone that will tell you it is a pos. :)
I have the 300 from a few years back and it works fine. The 200 looks like it will do everything you need and the price is right. I say, why not?
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I thought about the walbro from full throttle but it is $25 more. I believe I will be ordering the dw200
Three year no fault warranty sounds good. At least they have conf.idence in their product.
Mime is very stock, just upgraded the injectors and chip. I wanted to put a pump and hanger in when I did a new tank earlier this year but the budget said not at that time. Just put in a new water pump last Sunday. Oh well, I do like wrenching on it.
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Looking at one of these for the wagon to replace the 255lph unit in there now.
http://www.amazon.com/Walbro-TIA485-2-450-Fuel-Pump/dp/B00DMPQYHI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Y49S39XNEXVM5MZFEFN#productDetails (http://www.amazon.com/Walbro-TIA485-2-450-Fuel-Pump/dp/B00DMPQYHI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Y49S39XNEXVM5MZFEFN#productDetails)
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That looks like a nifty piece. Does that put the current pump up for grabs/sale?
I placed the order for the dw200 this am. 20.95 to ship. So $120 all told for the new one.
Now on to determine which alternator my 2500hd pickup needs as it quit charging two days safter the fuel pump quit.
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We have a DW in one car. Not had any trouble (2 years). Not sure what the deal is with those folks
with return line troubles, our car is stock and works fine.
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255 LPH pump in mine and SS hanger from Jack at Racetronix. Injectors and pump both hotwired....al so Racetronix stuff. Oh...and Caspers volt booster. Letting these cars lack fuel pressure and volume is never a good idea.
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Rich, when I bought my T in '07 one of the first upgrades I did was the fuel pump. Replaced the stock pump with the Walbro 340 255 lph which took a dump within 2 weeks of the install. Put another one in, dumped again on me a in a couple of days :x
After that I decided. piss on it, I'll try a GM EP381. It's still in the car and I've run upwards of 24psi with alky and NEVER seen any KR in any gear rugged. Lowest O2 counts I've seen were in the 730-740 range and that was in high gear. Call me kooky, call me wacky but that pump works for me.
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I'm running the racetronix stuff. -8 feed and -6 return with inline filter. Wish I would've seen this thread earlier, I have a walbro that was in my car for about 18 months that I would've given to ya
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And I would have put it in.
My pump has arrived.
Anyone know what size hose I could pick up to put on the feed and run the pump after I get it in to put some of the fuel in the tank into some cans so the tank is lighter to put back up? Maybe 3/8ths.
I am excited.
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Just measured my old sending unit. .375 for the feed line
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be sure your fuel line for inside the tank is rated SAE 30R10. It's expensive by the foot but regular fuel line will swell up and come apart after a bit
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Yeah, I'm familiar with the need for submursible hose.
(http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq167/texastandgransport/The%20T/Fuel%20Tank/IMAG4300.jpg) (http://s444.photobucket.com/user/texastandgransport/media/The%20T/Fuel%20Tank/IMAG4300.jpg.html)
I put a tank in earlier this year. I ran it out of gas as the gauge doesnt work and I wasnt paying close enough attention. That might have contributed to failure or the fact that I put it in in 93 or so. It was a good run.
I havn't actually seen what I got. Those are pix my wife texted to me. Yeah, she's a keeper.
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Anyone have thoughts on what to do to the hanger to get the fuel gauge to work? Yes, I'd love a new stainless hanger, no it isn't in the budget.
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Have you ohm-ed out the sender? I believe the digital dash has 150 ohm sender and standard dash has 90 ohm sender
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on mine it ended up being the stupid dirty contacts on the back of the dash cluster that caused my gas gauge not to work. I'm pretty sure mine was always pegged way past full.
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digital senders ae 120 ohms vs 90 for the analog senders. No digital senders available so 90 is what you can buy.
You can clean the slider and the wire coil with some number 1000 grit paper...lightl y and see if that helps. (actually, I am thinking of another sender but I remember that I took the new sender that I bought from racetronix apart after it did not read and did something to the pick up to make it make better contact) think it was my jeep that I shined up the surface on lol) that was after I had to pull the pump back out when it did not work...found a miscrimped wire in the hd in tank wiring that allowed the wire to fall out once it was installed...so I fixed that as well as convinced the fuel level to work...
Ohm the sender and see if it does the 0 when empty and somewhere close to 90 when full.
Cleaning the terminals at the gauge end is always a good idea. having a good ground at the tank helps too.
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Sounds good. Thanks for all the info. The gauge kinda moves around but I don't trust it. We will put the meter to it and see if the contacts can be cleaned at the tank and in the dash. I know the light dimmer switch was quite corroded so I bet the fuel gauge isn't much better.
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We dropped the tank and got the level gauge contacts and the other connections cleaned with some spray electrical contact cleaner. The plug for.the pump was different than stock so we cut and soldered the new connector on and put some heat shrink on the connection. Now I am kind of gunshy with the connection as there wasn't anything mechanical connecting just the solder and the heat shrink. Any thoughts on this, or am I just silly and over thinking it? I guess the gas sloshing around in there and the wire just out there getting pushed around stressing the connection.
Anyone have any thoughts?
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if you soldered the wires, it should be fine
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Anyone have thoughts on what to do to the hanger to get the fuel gauge to work? Yes, I'd love a new stainless hanger, no it isn't in the budget.
Yes, take a file and knock a clean spot on the float arm and the hanger assembly. Then solder a thin ground wire from the arm to the hanger. Make sure to route it so the wire can't really add any tension or friction to the arm's sweep.
After I did that mod, I can damn near see fuel slosh on my gauge.
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If you put heat shrink rap on the connections after the fix and then put it back in the tank the gas is just melt the rap off.
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Thoughts on what to wrap the solder joint with so the exposed wire doesn't cause problems ?
My thought was pull it again and install a butt crimp connector, but I'm still mulling it over.
Thanks for all the input.
Car running well and it looked like the gauge was working but I haven't changed the level yet. We got it 20-120 ohms but this is an analog car so I wasnt real sure of it.
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In the aviation world we sometimes use what we call a knife splice. Make the splice, connect the two terminals, then slide clear tube over the splice and zip tie the ends of the clear tube.
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if you staggered the splices, there should be no problem.
Putting a piece of tubing over them, if you did not, should fix the problem.
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Tubing, I have some clear tubing that might be used in an oxygen breathing apparatus. That and a zip tie at each end might be the way I go.
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that should work...
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I also have the squishy rubber cylinder piece looks like it might be deteriorating. I didn't really process it until I looked at the "sock" from the other pump. I think ill remove it too. Maybe wrap the pump with a piece of bicycle inner tube for noise cancellation.
I broke the "tit"(for lack of a better term) that retains the new sock on. We uased some zip ties but it seemed the bottom of the tank will hold it on. Also had to zip the cover for the fuel gauge on as we broke one of the retaining tags off. We will be saving up for a new pump hanger piece. Upside, car did run so we have it wired correctly. I have pix but am having trouble getting them on my hosting site.
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teflon heat shrink is likely OK
http://www.vp-scientific.com/Chemical_Resistance_Chart.htm (http://www.vp-scientific.com/Chemical_Resistance_Chart.htm)
Do test the stuff you have laying around in your fuels first.
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(http://s25.postimg.org/dn733z1vj/IMAG5798.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/eph9mikor/full/)
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Old sock
(http://s25.postimg.org/skfk4zf3z/IMAG5807.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7arxu4yt7/full/)
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Contact cleaner
(http://s25.postimg.org/s3ucijrcv/IMAG5803.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/a119rbvi3/full/)
image hosting services (http://postimage.org/)
Insider sender
(http://s25.postimg.org/71ud47m0v/IMAG5810.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/96eq5annf/full/)
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Broken Tit
(http://s25.postimg.org/457c3xg73/IMAG5808.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ksyu6fayj/full/)
picture upload (http://postimage.org/)
Zip tied sock
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Looks like you and me have the same kinda luck
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I don't like to think of it as bad luck, just another challenge that needs solving. Part of the fun and excitement that is the car hobby. Where everything original that you touch crumbles in your hand. Works like that on the gs too, but on that there isn't as much plastic and rubber stuff.
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Had a DW200 installed couple months ago to replace a Walbro. Nothing was wrong with the Walbro (yet) but just wanted the reliability since I run an ethanol blend and the Walbro wasn't rated for it. Hard to beat the price, warranty, and reliability. I haven't heard of one dying yet. Only thing is I couldn't get mine to seat well on the bottom of the hangar and install the sock without cutting part of the hangar seat. No biggie though, just put a couple of zip ties much like you did for added security.
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We got it dropped recrimped and such. I have new pix ill post. Working on a no left blinker now. I think it is a poor connection with the cold weather but we are pulling the lens now to see.
I found some cool 3m crimp butt joint with a heat shrink right on it in my stuff so we put those on. Got to use the cool Thomas &betts crimpers I bought at least a decade ago. Pix to follow.
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(http://s25.postimg.org/gpfu1243j/IMAG5832.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/d5twb91dn/full/)
jpg images (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s25.postimg.org/3p434mhj3/IMAG5833.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/qdta46ywr/full/)
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(http://s25.postimg.org/rhdeg5jjz/IMAG5834.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4so7gl263/full/)
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I
Drove it to work today. Had a guy wanting to know if it is for sale at the gas station. This was at 6am. Crazy the attention this car gets and it is a beater.
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Looks good to go.
You're right, the attention these cars get is crazy. From the guys who try to talk to me about the car thru my rolled up windows at stoplights, or stop at my house while I'm working on the car (this makes me really paranoid), or yells "are you the original owner?" or "nice Monte" from the farthest pump away at the gas station---all these things drive me nuts. Can't complain about it to the wifey though...she just tells me "well why the hell did you buy this flashy car in the first place then?" LOL!
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(http://s25.postimg.org/crskbnha7/IMAG5840.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4maidht17/full/)
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Put heat to em to shrink em.
(http://s25.postimg.org/zad8zm4an/IMAG5837.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jovxfnscb/full/)
image hosting over 5mb (http://postimage.org/)
The package , been in the drawer so long I forgot where I picked em up.
Got the new to me 42lb injectors and 5.6tt chip in. Replaced a bunch of crumbly vacuum lines. Starts and idles super smooth now
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we use tons of those heat shrink butt connectors at work. As long as you don't cut the covering by over crimping they seem to last. Whenever I find a green rotted one its usually because it was cut when installed new.
we buy ours by either the 50 packs or 100 packs from napa.
these work pretty sweet too
http://www.cableorganizer.com/elelktralink-butt-splices/ (http://www.cableorganizer.com/elelktralink-butt-splices/)
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Dude... use hose clamps, not zip ties.