IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Shimy87 on May 27 2014, 01:28:11 PM
-
Probably not the correct name but has anyone tried to replace the stock steering box with one out of say a C4 corvette. I want to get a quicker ratio, I have wider tires on the front of mine, all steering components are in good shape, but because of our dipped out roads the car wanders all over and I thought with a quicker ratio it would be nicer to drive. I had a C4 and it liked to follow the ruts but it was much easier to manage.
Thanks
-
after some research looks like they have 2 different boxes for the GN, one is 3.5 lock to lock and one is 2.5. Anyone changed to the 2.5?
-
thought they all were 2.5 turn boxes, but I guess not-not sure if I ever checked mine. I know this damn challenger is 3.5 turns and it is a pain in the neck...
-
Yes, and yes.
https://www.google.com/search?q=gbodyforum+steering+boxes+site:gbodyforum.com&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=t1n&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb (https://www.google.com/search?q=gbodyforum+steering+boxes+site:gbodyforum.com&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=t1n&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb)
I just recently pulled the school bus-like over compensated power steering out of our donor car LeMans and replaced it with the stock MCSS high effort/quick ratio steering gear... it made an amazing difference.
The only real factory upgrade for us is the XH box from the high performance 3rd Gen F-bodies; it is the same 12.7(ish):1 ratio as the F41/FE3 (I believe) boxes in our G-bodies except that the internal stops are set up for 16x8 wheels. I have one of these in my MCSS, and now it is going into the wagon.
In my Buick I welded larger steering stops in the lower control arms to deal with the wider wheels... it works fine, but kinda kills the turning radius.
I hope this helps.
-
after some research looks like they have 2 different boxes for the GN, one is 3.5 lock to lock and one is 2.5. Anyone changed to the 2.5?
the aftermarket parts catologs may show two boxes available for g bodies and you can interchange the two on a GN but the hurstolds/SS /GN -TR's and any car with the handling option got the performance ratio high effort(12:1) 2.5 turn box , the soft (16:1) 3.5 was used on all other standard suspension gbodies
heres an link to save
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2007/09/01/hmn_feature21.html (http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2007/09/01/hmn_feature21.html)
-
Thanks for all the great info!!! Looks like you can get a quick ratio unit from Rock auto that should bolt right up for $115....well worth it if it improves the "wander" on our Wisconsin winter ruined pavement.
-
Doesn't wander usually mean something is worn and sloppy?
-
I have had it up on a lift and everything is good, no apparent play in anything. It was not to bad with stock tires but after I changed over to wider low profile 17's it is much more noticable
-
Doesn't wander usually mean something is worn and sloppy?
I would agree. Our LeMans was a death ride before I changed out the shocks... check your shocks.
-
If the steering box was higher effort IE more friction I could see it would help?
German cars have steering dampers for this purpose?
-
Trucks also have steering dampeners on them to help prevent the "wandering" issue. Putting a car on a lift may give you some idea of what's worn but in most cases, it has to be seriously worn out. The best way is to have it on a flat surface and watch the linkage as someone else turns the wheel back and forth. You'll be surprised how much flex the suspension parts will have when they're under a load.
One other gear box you can use is off the S-10 extreem trucks. It's a fast variable rate gear box and will bolt on. You might find one in a junk yard if you're lucky.
-
Checked tonight and already have the 2.5 turns lock to lock gear box. I saw on another board a " quickiner" that you put in the steering post that works like a gear reducer. Anyone tried these?
-
I watched a local mechanic do a safety, he use a 4 foot pry bar to gain sufficient leverage to find the linkage slop and I think that's the only way if it's not on the ground.
-
Tie rod joints...ball joints...cente r link joints...all have a specific resistance...a nd there's a spec for each. You put the nut on...then turn it down till the ball starts moving in the socket. Usually the spec is in inch pounds...so you turn your inch pound torque wrench and watch the needle.