IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: bcn30141 on February 27 2014, 08:19:45 PM
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Ok so I got my first GN a little while back, unfortunately I got to only drive it for a whole two weeks before I blew the head gaskets. As my story goes I bought this car after sitting for a long time...thankfu lly the owner had a receipt book exceeding 10k of work that had been done to the car. So I was thinking there shouldn't be much more I had to do to make it fast. Keep in mind this is my first turbo car and it also hadn't been running in like 3 years....ok so I trailer it home and after a few little repairs with the ignition I got it running. Items I had to replace to get this car right again were the cam and lifters, fuel pump, replaced entire alky kit, ignition module, and map sensor, plug wires, plugs, boost controller, all soft rubber vacuum lines, fuel filter and I added Gen2 with LS1 MAF. Ok so here's my two weeks of driving...car was hauling ass, I never took it to the track so I don't know how fast. So I tuned by driving and adjusting gen 2. All was great except I kept leaning out WOT in high Third low fourth. Anyhow long story short I blew both head gaskets at the same time. Problem I believe was a bad kink in my fuel line going up around the cam senser. I'm not gonna admit it but I may had done it on the cam install...whoo ps....Ok so let me tell ya I know a lot more now than I did when I started.
So here are my changes with the new build....210 215 roller kit from Fullthrottle (Thanks Mary), Harland Roller Rockers, replacing the TT chip with Extender Extreme chip so I can use the tune by AF feature on Gen 2, AFX wide band set up, roller timing chain set, ARP head studs and Bullet Proof Head Gaskets, new valve covers which are too expensive! New SS fuel lines. All new gaskets from Victor Rienz. Venders to thank....Cotto n's, RjC gaskets, Fullthrottle, Summit. Wish me luck on my build...lookin g forward to the arrival of my parts! I will add picks of the carnage and build to come....
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The fun hehe
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I also noticed after cleaning the heads somebody did a lot of porting and polish work...that will save some time! PS I'm no mechanic, but I'm learning, the only way I have been able to do what I've done and learned what I know is thanks to being OCD and reading thousands of threads on these buick forums. Also I learned some things about the turbo, it's a Turbonetics cpt 61DBB type, I'm not sure of its capabilities quarter mile but I do know it pulls and spools really well.
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Build looks pretty good. I wouldn't put the steel shim gaskets in though. It is always better to blow a head gasket than drive over your crank and rip your block in half. It's like having a fuse.
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Yeah I had thought about that but since I don't have a huge turbo I was gonna run 28psi with a focus on safe air fuel and timing. I didn't wanna pop regular headgaskets under a high compression ratio. If I went with a bigger turbo then my 60lbs aren't gonna cut the cheese. It's costly as it is, I think I've spent 5k on parts alone and I've installed everything so I didn't have to get a 2nd mortgaged the house...
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Are you running a fuel pressure gauge or do you have access to one? I would highly recommend hooking one up if you haven't already, and verify your fuel pressure is rising 1:1 with boost.
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Thanks for asking Guss, that will be confirmed, there is a gauge on the rail. My fuel components include a hot wire kit, new areomotive stealth 340 pump, brand new Accufab FR and 60lbs injectors. I will adjust to 42 hose off and make some small colored marks on my gauge so I know where fuel psi is in regards to boost. I'm gonna do this hood off...I may get more elaborate and stick a boost and fuel gauge on the window. When I tore the engine down I found a very kinked fuel line coming up around cam sensor...I believe that was my trouble maker, so I paid $$$ for new SS lines. I really wanted something that went away from the front on a flex, but oh well. Anyhow Guss, you probably hit one of the most important checks on the list to keep this engine together. Thanks for the response!
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Question for you fellas, For a Turbonetics DBB CPT 61 (I was told it had a 61 intake housing and 65 exhaust housing) given all the fuel and Alky and timing is correct, at what level of boost would the turbo lose its efficiency due to heat or rpm or whatever....I have stock headers and 3.5 inch down pipe with evolution ext waste gate if it matters.thanks!
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Your injectors are capable of high nines with a dual nozzle alky...dual nozzle is harder to tune tho as one tends to get too much alky too early...but tuning the controller can fix that.
Stay out of fourth gear.....it really puts a load on the engine and that leads to detonation and pushing the gaskets out as you found out before.
Did not notice if you mentioned tires, but 28" tires will work better than 26"s.
The turbo will probably top out somewhere 11.0 with that cam, I suspect unless something has been done to it to increase the volume
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Your injectors are capable of high nines with a dual nozzle alky...dual nozzle is harder to tune tho as one tends to get too much alky too early...but tuning the controller can fix that.
Stay out of fourth gear.....it really puts a load on the engine and that leads to detonation and pushing the gaskets out as you found out before.
Did not notice if you mentioned tires, but 28" tires will work better than 26"s.
The turbo will probably top out somewhere 11.0 with that cam, I suspect unless something has been done to it to increase the volume
Thanks for the info Steve....
I put some MT DR's 275/55/15 ...i will have to look into that height ....I like the idea of a duel nozzle set up but is my turbo big enough to really need it? When you say 11.0 is that in reference to quarter mile time or something else...before the blow out I noticed the turbo spooling up to 28 lbs very fast, takes no time at all, is a small turbo like I have ( pte 61 DBB ) still efficient at that boost....or should I back it down...my goal is high 10 low 11 in the quarter.
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I did not suggest a dual nozzle set up..I mentioned that your injectors were capable of going much quicker than you appeared to believe-if using dual nozzles...but, of course, the rest of the combo has to be up to the task. A 61 is not going to get you there. It might get you high 10's in the quarter but I was guessing that 11.0 seconds was close to the limits. I am guessing that if the turbo will make 28 psi, that you will be moving out of the higher efficiency zone of the map and not making any additional power given the cam that you are using is going to extend the amount of air required to maintain that boost level at high rpm.
Further, the combination of parts required to obtain a prescribed level of performance is usually a lot easier than actually making it work to get there. Tuning and driving skill is the hard part.:)
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What's interesting about the turbo boosting is when I have it directly hooked up to the waste gate (20lbs spring) it spools slower, if I add the BC and dial it all the way down it spools faster to 20, and then if I turn boost up to 28 it spools super fast. Wonder why??? This might be trivial but it's a curiosity....I noticed my heads had been shaved, ported and polished like crazy, also pistons stamped 30 over...the transmission is super built with billet servo, 13 vain pump, reds clutches and bands, shift kit and modification to internals, 2800 stall...I'm hoping this will help towards a good quarter mile time.
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the boost controller prevents any boost from getting to the wastegate until the checkball in the controller comes off its seat.
If you don't have the boost controller installed, then the puck starts creeping off its seat much earlier which slows down the spool.
Now, the initial spool, in either case, from 0-15 or 20 is slower and is dependent upon your converter stall. Spool up is not linear and normally increses in rate past a certain point.
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As Jim said...mount a FP gauge on the hood...or you're gonna be doing this all over again. Steve is correct that 60's will take you into the 9's...as Grumpy cracked the 9's with them. That 61 will likely take you to a high 10...IF...you know how to tune...IF...th ose heads were ported by someone who knows what they're doing...and IF...you have an efficient convertor. Getting the car to launch hard...and driver capability also come into the equation. I went 6.90 at 101.58 which is the equivalent of a 10.87 with my 62...so there's no reason you can't do the same.
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Absolutely, do not run the car hard until you can monitor the fuel pressure while going down the track. That should be the number one commandment of forced aspiration racing.
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10-4 on that....that's the last thing I want is a hole in the piston or worse...that's one reason I moved to the extender chip, perhaps using the tune by AF option on the Gen 2 will assist in keeping things in the safe zone. I got a AFX wide band to make it all work, I hope it mingles well with the Gen2.
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I don't know how it will keep it in the safe zone....It does not control fuel pressure..and, when one is running alky on top of fuel, the alky can cover up a loss of fuel pressure or a too lean fuel curve until it is too late...
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The only thing I trust to control fuel is my right foot.
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and the amount of timing retard (which should be zero) on the scantool....an d even that is not reliable as the fuel pump can be failing and the alky will cover up the failing pump for awhile...
I am not a big fan of using the wb to control the chip's fueling for several reasons.
The primary reason is that I have had three fail on me while driving...once at full throttle (not a pretty sight when you are running an a/f down in the tens and suddenly it is reading 14's and making noises
I am currently using an AFX on one of my cars...one day I cranked it up and it was reading something other than what it normally read by a couple of numbers...I messed with it reset it, reconnected it, etc and it was still off. I walked off and left it for a month or so. Cranked it up and it was back to what it should be. Factory O2 never changed at all and the car was running perfectly.
Now, it did not make any difference because I had already learned to not let it control the fueling from prior experiences with my Innovates. I use the wb to tweak my fuel curves on my SD chips but I run open loop so the only thing that can change the fueling is me, or a bad pump or associated problem. That's just me :)
Of course, I have long ago learned that there is no magic numbers for AF, timing, or whatever...I run whatever gives me the best performance without any detonation as evidenced by timing retard...on the street, I add a couple of percent more fuel back in for a safety margin given that ambient conditions change so much on the street. Any time someone tells me that I should be running some magic number for air fuel, or whatever, I know I am dealing with an idiot.
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Absolutely, do not run the car hard until you can monitor the fuel pressure while going down the track. That should be the number one commandment of forced aspiration racing.
It is.....
....but we have a lot of sinners in our midst.
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From my understanding Steve and I hope I get this right. ...timing at zero is understood and Alky will keep that in its tracks with compression ratio increase with boost, also I suppose the general rule is max out timing until knock will no longer allow...increa se fuel to keep detonation out and cylinders not to hot, but not piggish running...I suppose that's around 750mv or it's AF equivalent. Now where the AFX and Gen2 work in ( my understanding which may be corrected) is the Gen2 reads the wide band, and raises or lowers the fuel amount by the tuners determined percentage of increase or decrease to keep it in that ball park, so yes the gen 2 is doing this on the afterthought of O2 readings but it all is going on very fast. unfortunately this all only works with the extreme chip. I can only hope everything stays reliable with hardware that maintains tuning factors. I have read a lot of good and bad reviews on almost every product...I ask questions to venders about their chips in comparison to competitors and it's always one side no matter what. I can only attempt to tune the best I can with what I got, I guess I'm in the experimental phase of products but I am weeding some things out early. No doubt I will confirm the fuel psi rise with boost...the only thing I don't have is a knock alarm...I do want that....do they make an audible alarm with out a gauge ? Im really not crazy about lots of blinking lights going on in the car during night driving.
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Steve how do you run open loop all the time? Is that preset in the chip? I assume you might have to make seasonal adjustments to outside temperatures often? I like that idea so I'm not so dependent on the computers adjustments in closed loop.
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I run the Speed Density TT chip. You program it to run either closed loop, or open loop. If you put in 99 in the fueling slots where you would normally specify a/f's, it runs open loop-
I have never run the TT 6.0 or 6.1, but they are probably the same...As I don't have emission testing out here, I don't need a maf...just another potential problem eliminated
I prefer to make it as simple as possible in order to eliminate potential problems whether hardware or software.
It is very simple. Ignore timing, run as much boost as you can without detonation on as little fuel as you can without detonation.
If you are running 93 octane and 7% alky your a/f might be X. If you are running 93 plus 15% alky, the a/f might be something else. If you are running 91 octane and some amount of alky, it might be something else. If you have 8.2-1 compression ratio, the a/f might be another number. If you have a CR of 9.3, it might be again another number. If you live at 3000' altitude and the temperature is 45 degs, then the a/f might be something else or if you live at sea level and it is 100 degs, it might be another number. If you have a stock cam it might be another number. If you have a 214 deg cam and some mix of all of the above, it may be anohter number. If you have a stock IC it might be this and if you have a big volume ic, it might be that....
There is no substitute for finding out what runs the best for your combo under given conditions...i t is time consuming but that is what tuning is. If you take time to understand all the factors, then you can short cut the process. Too many have no interest and no undertanding-they just want a number. they may have a good running car but they may never run what it could.
I told turbocajun to reduce his timing from 21 degs in 3rd to 18 degs the other day. He picked up two miles per hour on the top end (went 122) He did not change the boost. Might have been a fluke but he lost nothing on the time and gained top end. I just had a feeling based upon experience. the only way you get experience is by a lot of iterations.
You have to get consistent fuel pressure and be able to prove it before you start playing. You need PL and I like to be able to monitor fp on pl so I can see any drop offs...sometim es it is hard to watch the fp and steer at 120 mph. I guess i am getting old and have to pay attention to where I am going and what is in front of me
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Another thought...if you set the wide band to 10.8 and you are running 93 and alky...and then you crank up the alky a couple of notches....chi p has to alter the fueling to maintain 10.8 a/f which it hopefully does.
Can one actually equate the two and say 10.8 is what my car likes? Or does one have to specify all the parameters because the 10.8 does not mean a lot ? How do we explain that the car went faster with the first 10.8 than it did with the second 10.8 if 10.8 is what some guy on the board said that was the correct a/f. Alky has a different a/f number for optimum burn than does gas...and we are running a mixture so all bets might be off other than genralities based upon experience
Does this remain constant whether we run a TE 44 or a 6775?
Typically, with a small turbo like a stock unit, on race gas, we might have run 30 degs of timing because we could not push the boost up much past 22 psi because it was out of the turbo's efficiency zone and was just making hot air. On a larger turbo, we might not be able to run much over 18-20 degs even tho we run much lower boost, get colder air, and stuff a bunch more air molecules into the cylinder.
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If I had not invested in the ls1 MAF and stuff I would be speed density operational myself. Thanks for all your feedback Steve....i really look forward to the tuning part, it's gonna be fun to find that sweet spot where everything meshes just right....,I plan to use this thread and many others as reference. Well I need to come up with a tool to replace the front cam bearing, my Pops had one he made for a small block Chevy but it's to big to punch the 3.8's.
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I just ordered a Audible Knock Alarm from Caspers.....Ho oooRaaa!
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Could somebody please explain the line on the picture that says "these specs are for cam installed at 110.0 intake center line" do I still align my marks up on the timing chain sprockets or is to be set back or fourth a few tooth? Thanks!
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http://www.compcams.com/technical/instructions/files/145.pdf (http://www.compcams.com/technical/instructions/files/145.pdf)
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Thanks Steve, great material...I got my answer!
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Questions, since my valves are going to have a little more travel (higher cam lift), should I clean the stems up and replace the valves seals or can I just swap my springs out and clips...I got to thinking the stem seals might get roughened up where there previously didn't ride on the stem. The last time they were replaced were 11k ago.
Also do fellas put you timing cover on first before your oil pan on build up?
Do you all recommend using a thin layer of grey silicone or that alike on the gaskets or does it matter?
Do I need to remove the ECM to replace my chip or can it stay plugged up?, the connectors are in there pretty tight and I don't want to F it up pulling them out.
Is it anymore complicated to set the engine in with exhaust manifolds on?
Where have you all placed the audible knock alarm inside the cabin?
Can you tell I'm a newbie lol...thanks for any responses
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If the heads are off, I would think polishing the stems might be a good idea...if they are on the engine, I might not go to much trouble other than wiping them down with solvent. I tend to be lazy these days and often regret it.
I have always put the pan on first.
Definitely no sealer on the cover over the gears. If I used any on the cover to block gasket, it would be paper thin smear to fill any minor scars in the surface and I would let it set 15 minutes before attaching the cover so I could get the cover off again some day...silicone can be a terrific glue in some cases.
No need to remove the ecm...just unplug the orange ecm memory wire by the battery so there is no voltage to the ecm to be sure the memory is wiped from the prior chip
For an audible alarm it can go under the dash by your knee or on the side of the instrument pod above the radio..just try to aim the speaker so you can hear it
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When I have the option I put the timing cover on first. then trim the gasket flush, then add the pan. If you put the pan on first, you might have to pull the locating dowels out of the block to get the cover to go on without buggering up the pan gasket (or Right Stuff if you omit the gasket)
Don't forget to check your pickup to pan clearance too.
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Good deal...respons es were appreciated. Well tomorrow is valve stem seals and putting heads on, I need to so some homework on the head tightening process for the studs.
I was a little baffled that the exhaust valves don't have seals..., on another note I'm not sure if the Harland Sharp 1.55 RR's will require the rocker pedestals to be trimmed up for clearance...I would rather do that off the block to keep the shavings away. Hopefully those will come in soon.
Bad news,,,I found my crank pulley assembly has a crack right along the top off the key way...sucks cause I wasn't for buying anything else. Uhhhg!
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Pedestals have to be clearanced to fit the Harland Sharps. Stock exhaust valves require no seals.
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Thanks for the info, just figured out as my crack is in the harmonic balancer along the key way, I noticed Cottons sell a used stock one for $80, are all balancers stock made the same or are the holes drilled in them different for every motor. Thanks! Any thoughts on the pick below for replacing my stock balancer?
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I'm betting one of the guys on here have a good used stocker.
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Does the line below on this invoice that says "OUTSIDE LABOR BALANCE ROTATING ASSEMBLY" mean my engine is internally balanced....I need to know this for my balancer purchase. thanks!
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I'm betting one of the guys on here have a good used stocker.
That would be great, however I don't mind spending a few bucks to get a reliable harmonic, I heard and have seen pictures of other obliterating the front cover.
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Ok so after I did some homework this is what I came up with, only agrivation is putting the car off for another week. This is a BHJ external balancer, I don't know much about them except the fact they're way to expensive, I hope I made the best decision.
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What items were balanced?
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What items were balanced?
Your guess is good as mine, I was going to try calling the builder.
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Since after to wait on parts... No use wasting the day away, how bout bumper filler time...hehe
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Ok so after I did some homework this is what I came up with, only agrivation is putting the car off for another week. This is a BHJ external balancer, I don't know much about them except the fact they're way to expensive, I hope I made the best decision.
That is what I have on one of my cars. It is a balancer and dampener. Nice piece!
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Success 5 hours later!
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Ok so after I did some homework this is what I came up with, only agrivation is putting the car off for another week. This is a BHJ external balancer, I don't know much about them except the fact they're way to expensive, I hope I made the best decision.
That is what I have on one of my cars. It is a balancer and dampener. Nice piece!
Is all you had to do is bolt on or did you have to balance it in any way? Thanks!
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It depends if you have an internally balanced or externally balanced motor, then you would have to get the proper one. My motor was externally balanced. They are a tight fit as well. I had to clearance mine to fit. Clearance is labelled on the sheet.
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What did you do to clearance it? Does it require a machine shop? Thanks!
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I had a machine shop do it.
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Great! Another hidden cost :068:
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Does the line below on this invoice that says "OUTSIDE LABOR BALANCE ROTATING ASSEMBLY" mean my engine is internally balanced....I need to know this for my balancer purchase. thanks!
No hint on how it was balanced. It means that shop farmed out the balancing to another shop.
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Picked these up on ebay, stainless wrapped headers. Thinking about removing the wrap, thought it might lower exhaust temps going into turbo, what do you guys think?
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If for no other reason than they are ugly and will get uglier with age, remove them. Not too good if they get oil soaked eventually, either.
In theory they are good because they should retain heat better and improve turbo spool...in practice you will never be able to tell it. Some say they will increase the chance of the welds cracking-I suspect that is true.
More to the point, are those aftermarket headers from China or, are they factory?
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If for no other reason than they are ugly and will get uglier with age, remove them. Not too good if they get oil soaked eventually, either.
In theory they are good because they should retain heat better and improve turbo spool...in practice you will never be able to tell it. Some say they will increase the chance of the welds cracking-I suspect that is true.
More to the point, are those aftermarket headers from China or, are they factory?
Definetly not factory, they look similar to those KB headers and they are stainless. I don't think theyre Chinese headers, the fellow I bought them from said they were on his stroker that had a bad piston, he said they have been modified some to get to head bolts and there was exhaust probe bungs on 1 and 3, I suppose that's for checking temp? IDK, anyhow he had quite an investment on his motor so I wouldn't think they were cheapo headers, he was asking 425 but I got them for 280 shipped.
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More pics
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I don't consider myself a good welder but I think even I can lay down a better bead than what is on those headers.
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I don't consider myself a good welder but I think even I can lay down a better bead than what is on those headers.
Well hopefully they are solid, I should get them in the mail soon, if my pockets hadn't dried up so fast from all these other parts I woulda got something better. Fortunately I'm PayPal protected. I just hope all continues to come together smoothly. Right now the hold up is Roller Rockers, been a 3 week wait already. :icon_confused: :rolleyes;
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Hope they fit around the downpipe. Tried a set of ATR's with my RJC 3" DP...it was a no go.
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Hope they fit around the downpipe. Tried a set of ATR's with my RJC 3" DP...it was a no go.
Oh that's just great! When it rains it poors, I hope they work.. My 3 inch down pipe came from cottons.
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Hey Fellas, I got the BHJ balancer in today. I bought one used in good shape from cottons. I went to slide it on and it wouldn't go. I've been told they should slide on and I've read it's a hard press fit and I've read where you heat up the balancer snout and put it on. The last thing I want to do is crack it trying to ram or press it on. What is the only way the balancer should fit or be installed to the crank? Thanks for the feedback!
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There is a spec for the clearance on the sheet that is suppose to come with it. I was able to get mine on about a 1/4 of the way and than had to torque it down. If you have some calibers check the clearance between the balancer and crank.
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Therein is the reason why I stick to the stock stuff.
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I may have to look into that...came with no directions.
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Found it!
1. Crankshaft Fit
Internal diameter has been honed to a minimum OEM tolerance. In many instances, this will create an excessively tight press fit. Carefully measure your crankshaft snout diameter and hone the bore of the damper to give a .001/.0015 press fit. This operation must be performed with the utmost care as too loose a fit will cause the damper to move and damage the keyway and too tight a fit may cause the damper to gall and weld itself to the crank. We highly recommend the use of an anti-seize compound since the steel hub is not as forgiving as a stock cast iron hub.
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Found it!
1. Crankshaft Fit
Internal diameter has been honed to a minimum OEM tolerance. In many instances, this will create an excessively tight press fit. Carefully measure your crankshaft snout diameter and hone the bore of the damper to give a .001/.0015 press fit. This operation must be performed with the utmost care as too loose a fit will cause the damper to move and damage the keyway and too tight a fit may cause the damper to gall and weld itself to the crank. We highly recommend the use of an anti-seize compound since the steel hub is not as forgiving as a stock cast iron hub.
Cool Thanks! So did you need to hone yours at a machine shop? I have an Eagle Crank which the stock balancer slipped on and off of. I suppose I need to measure OD of my crank and See what the ID of the balancer is. Go from there. Thanks for the foot work on that info! :cheers:
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I read this below....does everyone agree that if I have an Eagle Crank then I should of got a internally balanced BHJ balancer? I went external BHJ cause I had OE harmonic external hub that I pulled off...aggravat ing! Some thoughts were if it was a stroker then yes I needed internal BHJ. Any thoughts?
"I take it you have an Eagle crank. If so, then you need the internal balanced BHJ balancer. As you look at the bolt holes that hold the crank pulley on, you should notice six holes. If you have 3 holes and a part that is not machined out, then you have the wrong balancer. The Eagle crank is neutral/internal balance piece. Also you need an internal balance JW Flywheel."
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I'm not sure
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Harland's installed, wasn't that bad, also got the BHJ balancer on, it was a bitch. I set my roller cam bushing by adding plastigauge to front of bushing plus gasket difference, shimmed to that number minus the clearence. Till next time....
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Good looking build so far brother! :rock:
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Hey guys do you all think my exciter ring is deep enough into the sensor? Today I install wide band and knock alarm...HooooR aaa! Thanks fellas for the feedback!
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Well car had a wobble at idle, freakin external harmonic was wrong choice, looks like I needed the neutral balanced type. I put the stocker hub on and it cleared right up. Still a little chicken shit with running my car hard into boost, richend it up alittle and put my timing in a safe zone, still ran strong as he'll at 28 psi. Coming back my exhaust took a dump, shit was dragging, looks like all the rubber hangers gave up at once. Also occurred a leaky radiator due to my ass not paying attention when install electric fan, bottom screw stabbed it somehow. I just hope the frustration will pay off one day so I can actually enjoy driving this thing. Thanks for the support.
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On another note it seems like it took a while for my lifters to fill up, they sound better now and evenly make the same sound across the board, however they just seem a little noisier than the flat tappet setup I had before, I would think a roller setup would be quieter. Any thoughts.?
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If you didn't bench bleed the lifters with a vice, it might be time to adjust the rockers again. That might quiet them down some.
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I didn't do that...they just soaked in oil for 2 weeks. When Installed I brought pushrod clearance to 0 and went another ¾ turn. I've never had rollers so I'm not sure what they're to sound like....I suppose I could pull the covers and given another half a turn.
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Coming along nicely! Should be a beast when you put it back on the road. :cheers:
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Little update, broke trans forward drum on first week of tuning. month later turbo was leaking oil out turbine seal. ended up putting billet parts throughout trans, ptc 9.5 stall, added new 6466 turbo, 80 lbs injectors, dual nozzle and volt booster. Cant pull WOT yet cause my evo wastgate is not controlling boost. looking next to increase down pipe size and larger wastgate. Becoming a long endever.
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The 6466 is a legitimate 9 second turbo with supporting mods. Keep us posted.
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Well the car is complete, trans is in with all the billet goodies, volt booster, twin nozzles, injectors....d one. Car is running pretty good, blm's are where they need to be. Maybe a little rich leading up to WOT, but will sort that out shortly with some seat time, I'm a little nervous to punch WOT, I've eased into to ¾ throttle to test my boost limits, which I believe I'm able to hold 23-25 psi and that's the lowest I can make it. Getting used to the PTC converter, totally different than the 12 inch converter I had. I've installed an audible knock alarm to help with preventative blow ups. So far the car pulls very strong and I know it's pig rich to boot, and it's only in brief moments that I ease into the peddle. I think before I go any further I need to retorque the head bolts. PS. Porting wastegate hole cured boost issues.
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I've tested up to 28 PSI with Jasons biggie puck and porting the wastegate hole...with zero issues. Be absolutely sure the puck swings freely...as mine 'grabbed' on the inside when I installed the larger puck. Had to take the die grinder to the inside of the downpipe to clearance it. Grumpy cracked the 9's with an internally gated downpipe and a 67...so it is possible to get the job done with an internally gated downpipe.