IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: YGspider on September 11 2013, 09:22:03 PM
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So, I've done lots to my Turbo T and it runs and idles very well. With exception to the tap the car makes at hot idle... Anyway the point i'm getting at is the car will not go over 4500 rpm. The knock gauge will come on strong or it will buck back and even with out knock it wont get over 4200-4500. I'm planning on getting I rebuilt cam sensor as a first resort and if its not that i'm starting to wonder if a wiped cam lobe can cause this type of issue. What RPM should these cars shift at?
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So, I've done lots to my Turbo T and it runs and idles very well. With exception to the tap the car makes at hot idle... Anyway the point i'm getting at is the car will not go over 4500 rpm. The knock gauge will come on strong or it will buck back and even with out knock it wont get over 4200-4500. I'm planning on getting I rebuilt cam sensor as a first resort and if its not that i'm starting to wonder if a wiped cam lobe can cause this type of issue. What RPM should these cars shift at?
I'll post some Powerlogs when I get a chance.
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Thought some one told you it needs valve Springs
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Steve they don't listen.
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Thought some one told you it needs valve Springs
I've also said at least 3 or 4 times they where replaced during the rebuild...... I don't think a new set of valve springs is going to wear out that fast in 20 km?? All I'm asking is can a cam sensor cause big issues and can a whipped cam lobe make a car pretty gutless?
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You never know what to believe when someone says they changed something and they really didnt. Mine doesnt go past that either but i get around to that next year and im glad because i would probably just go faster anyways and get in trouble.these guys know these cars inside out so if they say you need springs i would go buy springs no questions asked besides they wont break your bank If you really wanted to you could buy me a set too so i get off my ass and replace mine too
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I thought you said they were claimed to have been changed, but, never mind...I am sorry for wasting your time. Won't do it again
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You never know what to believe when someone says they changed something and they really didnt. Mine doesnt go past that either but i get around to that next year and im glad because i would probably just go faster anyways and get in trouble.these guys know these cars inside out so if they say you need springs i would go buy springs no questions asked besides they wont break your bank If you really wanted to you could buy me a set too so i get off my ass and replace mine too
I've looked through the oil fill hole with a light and camera and the springs are changed I know what the stock ones look like. But hey what do I know?
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I thought you said they were claimed to have been changed, but, never mind...I am sorry for wasting your time. Won't do it again
I know the engine was rebuilt by a piece of shit that stole peoples money and turbo cranks and that the engines where built by a good shop that just followed the orders of a so called "TURBO Buick expert" sorry for just wanting to get back on track with a car that has never run right? From my inspections the valve springs are not the stock hardwear. I really don't know beyond the valve springs that's why I'm asking about symptoms of internals.
Also do you think weak valve springs could create a KR issue trying to get over 4200?
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Just because the valvesprings were changed doesn't mean they are correct for the car. The camshaft if installed incorrectly could also be limiting your topend. As for weak valve springs causing KR... I am unsure? However anytime your valvetrain is out of sync you are going to have problems.
Disconnect your wastegate rod and wire the puck FULL open then go and see if the car will break 4200-4500rpm. Takes boost out of the equation.
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are you running a catalytic converter?
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My non expert opinion is valve springs. Also why flog the shit out of it when you know there's a problem? You said there is a "tick" at idle? Might want to look into that.
Also how much knock on the scan tool?
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My non expert opinion is valve springs. Also why flog the shit out of it when you know there's a problem? You said there is a "tick" at idle? Might want to look into that.
Also how much knock on the scan tool?
Well all the "experts said to ignore the tick. And I'm not flogging the car I'm trying to get readings as soon as I see KR I back off. obviously I want to fix the tick. But you cant just fix a tick that will cost 3000 grand in new parts and maybe I will miss the part that is ticking all together.
Yes the car has a brand new magnaflow high flow cat and the boost is very quick to build.
I'm just trying to kill the small issues before I decide if I really should pull it apart and check internals this winter.
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I have a motor sitting here built ARP studded form top to bottom fresh heads with new springs with a good port job new 208/214 cam with new lifters 10/10 turbo crank yours $3700.00 and keep your motor for a spare this motor was used for one summer never to the track, just have to add a few of your parts from your motor and away you go, then you can tear your motor down and find out whats wrong with it. then you will have a spare.
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Im not a turbo Buick expert but I am a heavy truck mechanic for a living. Just because a part is new or low miles doesn't mean anything. I have seen many parts come out of the box defective or bad. What is the reputation of the engine builder? Pull off the valve covers and have a look in there. Turn the engine over by hand and watch the rockers. You could remove a set of valve springs and have them tested. A new set only costs $45 shipped to your door. Listen to Steve and the other guys on this website. I have learned tons of info and fixed many issues on my GN with their help. You will figure it out.
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Thought some one told you it needs valve Springs
I've also said at least 3 or 4 times they where replaced during the rebuild...... I don't think a new set of valve springs is going to wear out that fast in 20 km?? All I'm asking is can a cam sensor cause big issues and can a whipped cam lobe make a car pretty gutless?
You see him change them...or see the engine being rebuilt? Never take anyones word for anything. Beat on a set of stock or 980 valve springs with enuf boost or rpm's and they'll go soft in a hurry...ask me how I know. Run a compression check on the engine and then post the numbers for us...and if they're within acceptable limits then swap in a new set of valve springs. I was in the car...and it had a helluva time bringing the revs up and "hit a wall" about 4500 rpm's. If the engine is sound...then why the hell rebuild it?
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i personally would never ignore a tick. my motor is noisy as hell due to it being a full roller motor. there is a difference between noisy and a tick. no motor running 100% should have a tick.. imo. your not beating the hell out of the car but and i believe it was something ed said years ago. just because you see the knock dont mean its not doing damage. its slowly chipping away at things. my bet is still valve springs.
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These cars are a pain in the ass. Sometimes I wonder why i love mine so much. :chin:
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These cars are a pain in the ass. Sometimes I wonder why i love mine so much. :chin:
Because you know that when the day comes when you need to stomp down a Subaru or Dodge or any car she will be there for you. :powersix: :player:
So I'm going to do three things to try and sort this problem out.
1: disconnect the solenoid to the trans
2: new valve springs for the guys that wanted to see that done. If this doesn't fix the problem.
3: pull off the headers and crossover and inspect for cracks. It should be a lot easier with them off the car. I'm really starting to think my header is cracked as well because it seems in park when the car is cold the blm's are 128 as the car warms up to operating them the blms rise to 135 and the car starts clicking or tapping. can a crack in the headers affect rpms that much though?
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If your driver manifold is stock and has not been repaired you can bet it is cracked at the y of the rear two cylinder tubes. Might as well plan to have it repaired while you have it off.
Seeing as you "looked down the oil fill hole(or is it the 710 orifice?)" and saw what you think are non stock valve springs this cant be the problem? You have a few of the TOP internet diagnosticians telling you remedies and you constantly refute their solutions without even trying them. I guess I am missing something. Valve springs are a common problem. Yours are of unknown source. I see this as an easy remedy, change em out. Easy, peasy, lemon squeezy. Why are you fighting it? You, yourself, posted the engine builder was a shyster, what makes you thing he didn't skimp on the valve springs?
Change the valve springs, get the header repaired and get back to us. It will be like a whole new car if you did the repairs right.
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That's the plan my man. But I'm going to try some smaller things first before I swap in new comp cam 980 springs. But I'm sure even with stock springs wont the car get to at least 5 G of rpm?
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Sigh.
Dude, take the boost pressure off the backside of the valves and report back.
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Sigh.
Dude, take the boost pressure off the backside of the valves and report back.
I'm going to do that. I also purchased a set of 980-12 valve springs, picked them up for 40 dollars or so. I'm still sure a header is cracked as well.
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A cracked header would still let it rev up.
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3: pull off the headers and crossover and inspect for cracks. It should be a lot easier with them off the car. I'm really starting to think my header is cracked as well because it seems in park when the car is cold the blm's are 128 as the car warms up to operating them the blms rise to 135 and the car starts clicking or tapping. can a crack in the headers affect rpms that much though?
Start engine let idle until warm, or drive around until warm
Turn off engine
Unplug the maf sensor.
Remove the up-pipe to the throttle body
Reinstall up-pipe upside down so it acts like a funnel.
Start engine maybe take two trys
With engine running very slowly pour a very small stream of seafoam into throttle body through the upipe. use your other hand on the throttle to try to keep the engine running. Eventully the the car will stall from being flooded.
Turn ignition switch off and left sit for ~15 minutes.
Put up-pipe back and plug maf sensor back in
After 15-20 minutes restart the engine, all the carbon broke loose will cause a ton of smoke. Any exhaust leaks will show up.
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I've heard a lot of debate on seafoam dose it have any side effects or any issues that it can cause? Just wondering because I do like that idea.
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the proper way to use seafoam on a turbo buick is
start the car
let it warm up
throw the seafaom in the trash
drive the car
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the proper way to use seafoam on a turbo buick is
start the car
let it warm up
throw the seafaom in the trash
drive the car
:rofl: That was funny.
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Good one Brother. :cheers:
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I'm really starting to think my header is cracked as well because it seems in park when the car is cold the blm's are 128 as the car warms up to operating them the blms rise to 135 and the car starts clicking or tapping. can a crack in the headers affect rpms that much though?
the blm change is due to the rpm
the blms arent changing , you are looking at a different blm cell ,
when the rpm is above warm idle rpm you are looking at the next cell (cell 2) of the 16 blm cells
when it warms up and rpm drops its now in the idle cell or cell 1
135 isnt a real issue at warm idle , just increase fuel pressure about 1 psi and done
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/faq/BLMINT.html (http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/faq/BLMINT.html)
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the proper way to use seafoam on a turbo buick is
start the car
let it warm up
throw the seafaom in the trash
drive the car
It is a lot easier and quicker to check for exhaust leaks than to pull the ps manifold for no reason.
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a length of hose held to your ear will find it easier
btw if you can make boost then even if you have a leak its not affecting performance or have any effect on the Airfuel (or O2 reading) , may slow spool but once you have your boost doesnt matter