IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Bob-Lob-Law on April 04 2013, 08:09:00 PM
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Hello, I am pretty new to this board, and have not posted until now. Well, I have finally finished installing the my new engine and have gotten a chip burned and installed. However, I cannot seem to get the engine started and running. It turns over and catches but dies immediately. I tried to start it a few times with no luck with the same thing happening every time, it catches and within a a second, it dies. I changed out the spark plugs but I still get the same result, start, catch and die. When I changed the spark plugs, I noticed that there was a very strong fuel odor and the original plugs were severely fouled.
If it is flooding, what should I look at in fixing this problem? I have looked at posts on the other board, but have still come up with nothing. I would greatly appreciate any help anyone could provide.
Thanks.
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Sounds like my car when I disconnect the battery and forget my chip has that damned anti-theft crap on it.
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Bob, make sure the battery is fully charged and not low.
make sure the ground cable is properly attached to the engine. Also check that the small ground cable off the battery is connected to the inner fender sheet metal.
take a plug and connect it to a spark plug wire and lay it on the valve cover...does it spark when you try to crank the engine?
Sounds like it has fuel. Now we need to be sure it has spark.
And it does sound like a chip with theft protection option.
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Hi Steve, Bob contacted me on the other board. I have not been keeping up with the Buick stuff for a while now and posted a link to this site but I see he already found you.
Bill
Steve heres a pic of the engine I built that is in my car now, Poston headers, TA heads & block. It has run in the 9's at 22 psi with the "air off" using a TT street chip, a gutted oem maf sensor and a 0 psi launch. :)
(http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/a457/wmbrophy/P1000940_zps7adeac79.jpg)
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Hi, Bill! It's good to see you are still up and kicking! That is a beautiful engine and it runs well! What were you using for fuel?
Give us the engine details as to what lies within. :)
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Steve, when I came to the site I was glad to see you still kickin too! :D Here's the best way to get the complete story from bare block to finished product with blow by blow pics, insight & time slips. This engine has been in the car for a while and I did the complete build on your old hunting ground; TurboBuicks.co m. Just click on the stage section and I'm the first thread, I have time slips with pump gas (12/13 psi of boost) and the 9 second race gas post. I have not used the alchy in a long time.
Check it out, Trust Me, :D I think you will really like the pics and get a more complete story than if I went into it here.
Bill
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I am kickin' slower these days but I am still playing with cars...I just need to learn to focus rather than messing with too many cars at once.
After I posted, I remembered that you had a thread going over there from the past :D...takes my memory time to snap some days!
for those interested, this is the way to build a street car that can
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/stage-ii-dfi-speedpro/90477-ta-block-heads-street-motor-build-up.html (http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/stage-ii-dfi-speedpro/90477-ta-block-heads-street-motor-build-up.html)
It's a lot more fun that a strip car that might do it once a year before being worked on again
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Thanks Steve for posting the direct link, I just posted the web site link in my post but took it down just as soon as I saw yours,
Bill
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Steve, the reason that I have not been on the Buick sites and keeping up with things the last few years is that I've been bracket racing a "Grand Sport" corvette that I bought in 2010. On the "Corvette Forum" C6 performance section I (a 260 lb.) fat man holds the Grand Sport "Competely Stock" and "Bolt-on" 1/4 mile records at the moment. Last week was the first bracket race of the year here and I made it down to the last 6 cars in modified (usually fast cars that are towed in) before I went out. I got paid for making it that far so I am already a "professional" first race of the year. :D
Bill
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All,
Thanks you so very much for answering my post. Mr. Brophy recommended that I post here as well. I do thank you Mr. Brophy for all your help.
As Mr. Earl Brown and Mr. Steve Wood suggested, yes I do have the anti-theft on the car. I had the chip burned from Turbo Tweak. Please let me know what I need to do to either overcome this problem or how to disable it.
Steve, I will check the grounds too. I was also going to check the cam setting unless it sounds like that is OK. I'll have to wait until Saturday as I am pretty busy during the week. I'll let you all know how it goes.
Thanks again.
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I don't know the sequence to using the anti theft on the TT chip, but, I do know that a battery voltage that drops too low when cranking the engine will over come the start up sequence and prevent the car from starting. There is no way to disable the function without using a chip that does not have it. So...be sure the battery is fully charged and not dropping very far into the tens when cranking.
Check the ignition for spark as I suggested using a plug....
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if you have another chip without theft protection, stick in in the ecm and see if the car fires off. Don't run it for more than a second or two if it does not match the injectors
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I do know that a battery voltage that drops too low when cranking the engine will over come the start up sequence and prevent the car from starting. There is no way to disable the function without using a chip that does not have it. So...be sure the battery is fully charged and not dropping very far into the tens when cranking.
It will also make your car look like a huge piece of shit in the big lots, walmart, homedepot, and china buffet parking lots. Big enough to make one want to park it in the carport for another 6 years.....
that reminds me, I did to do some chip shopping.
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I had one a few years ago that would not start every morning...seem s the battery had a weak cell and after sitting awhile, it would not start until I put another chip in it, then start it, let the battery charge, and then change chips again....like he said, makes you want to put the car under the car port and walk away...new battery fixed that but it left an impression
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Steve,
Thanks for the advice. I did install a new battery, however, in trying to start it, it has run down. I'll put the charger on first thing and make sure the grounds are good to go. I also installed a new coil pack too, however, I'll check the spark to make sure it's strong.
I'll let you know what the findings are.
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keeping my fingers crossed! Be sure you are following Eric's instructions for the chip with regard to starting...try another non theft chip if you have one...
In the end, we need to know if you have fuel and spark to know which way to go.
Thinking of fuel leads me to fuel pressure...be sure that is up to snuff as well
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oh, yeah...make sure the plugs are dry because it probably will not start if they are wet...
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So far this morning, I went ahead and re-charged the car and it holds a 12 volt charge (12.6 to be exact). I did some looking on the Theft Deterrent and found somewhere on the Turbobuicks board someone saying that he had to reset it to get his engine going again. Well, if memory serves me correct, I had to unlock the car using the power door locks. I tried to do just that and the door locks are dead. So are the headlights too, but that's a different story, I think.
So, I am going to unhook the battery and tear into the dash and see if I can find the Theft Deterrent's location. Hopefully that will be the problem of the engine not starting as well as the power door lock problem. I found this on the web last night:
Theft Deterrent Connector (Regal): Behind LH Side Of I/P (Instrament Pane l)
Theft Deterrent Controller (Regal): Behind I/P, Near LH Shroud
Theft Deterrent Diode (Regal)): Behind LH Side Of I/P, In Connector C857
Theft Deterrent Relay (Regal): Behind I/P, Left Of Steering Column
Too bad I couldn't find pics of these items.
I'll let you all know how it works out. It might be a bit though, I'm having to clean up my house for visitors. Something about my daughter getting married. I had better get to writing that toast.
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I wouldn't tear the dash apart just yet. If your headlights aren't working, you've got electrical issues other than a potential voltage drop and resetting antitheft chip.
Have you verified that all the fuses are getting power and the fuseable links on the starter are in good shape and not broken?
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Are you saying the chip does not have the antitheft, but, the car has a factory alarm system instead?
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Mr. Brown. I guess I should have read your response before I went out, the dash is apart and everything is in order. Oh well, at least I know this now. I'll go take a look at the fuseable link. As far as I know, they are in good order. The wiring harness is a new (2006) Casper's harness. However, I very well could have missed one.
Mr. Wood. Yes, the chip does not have the Anti Theft. It is the factory installed alarm. After taking the dash apart, I looked at all the wiring behind the I/P and everything looked good and tight. If found two fuse holders with 25 amp fuses in them. They were still good. I removed them and cleaned up the contacts and reinstalled them. I also made sure all the grounds are in good condition, especially the battery ground from the negative terminal.
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Steve asked earlier...and I didn't see an answer. What's the fuel pressure set at?
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I have not been able to check it yet, I have to get a fitting that will fit the new fuel rail. I'll see if I can get that fitting either this evening or sometime tomorrow.
Thanks for reminding me of that question.
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I doubt it is the factory alarm but we may have to bypass it to be sure.
Again, try laying a plug on the valve cover to see if it sparks when you crank it...connected to the plug wire, of course :D
You did install the crank sensor thru the proper slot, I would assume. They normally will not start if you run the blades thru the other slot
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Steve, roger that on the Factory alarm. As far as the crank sensor, the blade is going through the outside slot, or the slot that is closest to the crank. When I installed it, the blade lined right up with it. Please tell me that is the right one.
First thing in the morning I will do the spark check.
I'm thinking that I might have wired the starter wrong. I have never had a problem with the door locks and head lights before with the old engine. I know it should be pretty straight forward, however, with me being a computer geek, nothing is ever easy. I'll be looking over the wiring for the starter this evening making sure it's Ok.
Thanks to everyone for all your help. I truly appreciate it.
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sounds right on the crank sensor...shoul d be like this http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cranksensor.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cranksensor.htm)
As I said before, it probably will not fire if the plugs are wet-that's because the voltage takes the easy path thru the gas instead of arcing between the electrodes.
I am assuming that the injectors are being pulsed because the plugs are wet. If it were sitting in my shop, I would not make that assumption but would plug my noid lite into one of the injector harnesses.
All the fusible links go to the small terminal on the starter. The purple wire goes to the other small post. If the starter is cranking the engine over, then you know the purple wire is on the right post and the other wires (fusible links) go to the other small terminal that has 12 volts on it all the time-just like the big post that the battery cable is connected to.
Does your check engine light come on when you turn the key to ON? IF not, then we have a wiring problem most likely at the starter. If it comes on, then your dash warning lights, instrument panel lights, etc should all work along with the headlights unless you shorted out a fusible link somehow.
If the check engine light comes on when you turn the key on, check the ccci fuse and the ecm-ign fuse.
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Bob, your'e in good hands with Steve & Crew!!!
Bill
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Earl is the Allstate guy!
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Bob, "CONGRATULATIONS" on your daughter getting married! I wish them the "VERY BEST"!! :cheers:
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Got it! The car was able to start. It didn't hold an idle but I was able to push the gas a little bit and it reved up. I stopped it after a couple of seconds to ensure that no harm would be done to the engine. The problem stemmed from the single black wire going to the wrong terminal on the starter. As soon as I changed it to the other terminal with the battery cable, everything lit up, head lights the security light all that. I also able to reset the theft deterrent.
Now, the next order of business is to keep it idling correctly. I have the TPS set to 42, I'll recheck that. I'll also check the fuel pressure to make sure it's set to 44, if memory serves me correct. I still need to get that adapter to that fuel rail, it's the rail that comes with the Champion intake. I'll get that done sometime this week.
One thing though, when I did rev the engine, it did seem to have a miss. I'll check the spark plug wires to ensure that is tight with them.
Thanks to all for your help. :cheers:
Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. :rock:
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Earl is the Allstate guy!
Close. I'm the Mayhem guy! :)
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Bill, thanks for the "Congrats". And thank you for all your help as well.
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that's progress...onc e you can keep it running, we can start looking at other things
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double check the plug wires to be sure they are on the right plugs and coil terminals...ma ke sure the coil/module is firmly bolted to the bracket and the bracket is bolted tightly to the intake
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Roger, it's going to take a bit though, I have to get my dash back together first and with the week coming up, work calls.
I'll post as soon as I get all this taken care of. Thanks again.
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anytime!
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Well now, after putting my dash back together and all. I still had to barely put my foot on the gas to keep the car running. It also still sounded like it had a miss. I looked at all the plugs, cleaned them and made sure that all the plug wires were correctly set and tight.
I was going to check the fuel pressure, however, before I could do that, I realized that my battery was draining very quickly. This was not happening before. I can't even keep a charge on the battery. I noticed that all I have to do is open the door to create the massive draw on power. I put a meter to the battery and it read normal charge. I opened the driver door and it went down about 4 volts. I dismantled the dash again to see if I pooched something. Everything looked good. I tried the test again, and still a 4 volt drop when I open the door.
I have checked all the wires, especially the ones at the starter since I just got through messing with those. Any suggestions would greatly appreciated.
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Something should blow or smoke with something like that kinda draw. Almost sounds like a bad battery except I doubt it would crank over.
Okay, are you reading the voltage at the battery with a meter, or are you looking at the scanmaster voltage?
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Roger, no smoke or smell. However, when I have the charger hooked to recharge the battery, I hear a buzzing sound when I open the door.
I had to re-seat the battery cables as the bolts are stripped a bit. I'll also make sure the grounds are good and the battery is recharged. I'll check scanmaster voltage when the battery recharges.
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I want to know what voltage is being shown on both the battery with a meter and off the scanmaster display.
A four volt drop would require many amps and the act of opening the door should blow a fuse instantly if something is pulling that much current. The buzz sounds like the convenience center chime to me but?
Pull the cig-clk fuse and see if things change
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Well, I recharged the battery and got everything hooked back up and tight. I also made sure that the extra ground from the battery to the front quarter was hooked up and tight as well. I had 12.3 volts at the battery from the meter. I put the key in and turned the ignition to on and looked at the meter and I had 11.8, the scanmaster showed that I had 11.5. This is with the door open and all. Everything seemed to be working correctly now. No big draw or anything. ????
I am going to let the car sit and go mow the lawn. I'll come back to it in a few and pull the cig-clk fuse as well. Could this all stemmed from just a bad ground?
I'll re-post here in a few. Thanks for all your support. I really owe you big. :cheers:
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yeah...but that battery does not look right to me
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Ok, I pulled the cig-clk fuse. Everything seemed OK, all lights on and bright. I then tried to turn the car over. All the lights dimmed the went off and I heard a couple of clicks from the starter, that's it. I'm guessing that I burned out the starter?
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No, your battery has a bad cell
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I have also noticed something else. My power master breaks won't charge. Since this is an 84 TType, am I missing a fuse or something that the power master needs?
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A bad cell. Well, that sure sounds a lot better than a bad starter. Funny, I just bought that a couple of months ago. I'll get that returned this week.
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they can load test it...sounds like it breaks down when a load is put on it...hence the big drops when the door is opened or the starter activated
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as far as the not wanting to run at idle, be sure there is not leak around the base of the egr valve or the block off plate if that is what you are using
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Roger that, I'm using the Champion Intake, so there isn't an EGR on it. I also have the vac line blocked off.
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sounds like an air leak some place to me
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or you have a plug wire switched, injector harness switched, or the cam sensor in backwards LOL
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Hey Steve, just wanted to give you an update. Sorry for taking so long, taking care of the wife doesn't leave me much time to work on the car.
Anyways, I have adjusted the fuel pressure and have it at 42 lbs. I have checked all plug wires and have made sure that they are all tight and working. The coil pack is new and working. The crank sensor is sitting correctly. Battery is good now. It will start, but stumble and die after a few seconds.
You last stated that you feel it's an air leak, so my next priority will be to block off all the unneeded vac lines like the cruise and HVAC to see if that makes a difference. I will also look at the injector harness since that is the only wiring that isn't new. I might just go ahead and replace it.
Thanks for your help. I'll let you know what happens when I am able to complete these tasks. :cheers:
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Steve, I was able to work on the car a bit this evening. I plugged the vac lines for the HVAC, Cruise Control and the PCV. I attempted to start the car and while it fired right up, it would run very rough for about 10 seconds and then die. This is actually the best it has run so far.
So, could the vac block be the next item to turn to, or something bigger?
I appreciate all your help.
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bob, it seems to me that it would take a massive air leak to do what you are describing....
Is it showing the correct fuel pressure when you crank it?
Be sure the maf pipe is tight on the turbo and the same with the other pipes to and from the turbo, intercooler and throttlebody are all tight
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also, does the check engine lite come on when you turn the key on...burning brightly and steadily, and go off when it starts?
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Steve, as far as the fuel pressure, when I turn on the key, the gauge pegs around max but bounces around as well when the fuel pump turns on. When it turns off, it goes down to 42 psi. When I am cranking it, it does the same thing, pegs out at maximum as well as bounces around a good bit.
Could the fuel pressure regulator be bad? Is there a way to check it to make sure it's good?
The engine light does what you asked, turn on when the ignition is turned on and it goes off when the car starts. I'll see if there are any codes stored. I do have a scanmaster.
Will the scanmaster store the codes so I can record them? If so, I'll try to get them for you this evening.
One other thing, when the car was idling, I tried to press the gas to get it to rev a bit, however, it immediately died. Any time I tried that when it was running during the 5 to 10 seconds it was running, it died.
Thanks for your support. :atbeer:
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The scanmaster will store recent codes. Sounds like there are none but it won't hurt to check to be sure.
Something is up with that fuel pressure gauge or the regulator, it would seem. Is that an electric or mechanical gauge? Pressure should be steady while cranking and drop slightly when it starts.
Do you get black smoke out the tail pipes when you start it? Pull a plug and see if it is nice and dry as it should be and not wet or excessively black.
You can take the top off the regulator and check to see if there are any holes in the diaphram plus make sure there is no crud in the regulator that might cause it not to work right. If you have another gauge, you can swap it in to be sure it is not the problem.
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this is basically all there is inside the regulator
http://www.accufabracing.com/index.php?option=com_redshop&view=product&pid=71&Itemid=7 (http://www.accufabracing.com/index.php?option=com_redshop&view=product&pid=71&Itemid=7)
take the diaphram out and check for debris
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Steve, I was finally able to get the tamper resistant torx sockets needed to take apart my regulator. There was no debris and the diaphram seemed in good working condition with no cracks or holes. One thing to note, the end of the spring that rested on the diaphram was very worn and a bit lopsided, however there were absolutely no shavings at all. I have had this regulator for many years and I don't even remember where I obtained it from. I might still have a stock regulator somewhere.
As for the black smoke, I get some black smoke but not a lot from what I can tell. It does smell very rich though. The plugs are still getting fouled. There is a good bit of black soot on them.
The gauge is a mechanical one. I have used it quite a bit and have never had any problems with it.
Thanks again for all your help. :cheers:
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if the plugs are black, something is wrong.
If the fuel pressure is really doing what you say, that will do it and flooding will kill the engine.
If the cam sensor is 180 out, that might do it as well
If the maf is not reading 4-6 when you start it, but is reading higher, that can make it run rich very badly, too.
Sounds like rather than a big air leak, it is getting too much fuel. Got anyone you can borrow a different gauge from?
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I was looking at one of your other posts on turbobuicks.co m. You know, it might be the cam sensor. I might not have set the engine on the compression stroke. I'll need to check this. Something tells me that I'm going to have to tear a lot down and redo this. Either way, I'll be working on that today when I get a break between house work.
Thanks again, I'll let you know how it works out.
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If it is set wrong, don't feel bad! It has happened to a lot of people before you came along! :D
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No, I won't feel too bad. It's all in the process of getting it right. I'll let you know what happens when I get it completed. Thanks again.
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Steve, well, I had reset the cam sensor got it all back together, started it and still no go. Pretty big blow. :(
So to recapture all that has been completed so far: Cam Sensor reset. Fuel pressure set to 42 psi. Crank sensor showing that the harmonic balancer part going through the slot closest to the engine. I have changed the coil pack (did not change the module).
Still when I crank it up, while it catches right away, it dies within a second or two. There was one time for S & Gs that I pressed on the gas to keep it going. It chugged along, but it sounded like it was only firing on half of the cylinders, very rough. I took out plugs from cylinder 1, 2, & 3. 1 & 2 were fouled but not wet. 3 was fouled and wet.
So, that is as much as I can remember at this time. Not sure where to go from here. I do appreciate all you help.
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can you find another fuel pressure gauge? We need to find out if the pressure is jumping around or if it is steady like it should be...
Should be a steady 43 when the hose is removed and cranked, or about 34-35 when running if you put the hose back on...
If you check the spark, is it nice and blue and strong?
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Steve, I'll have to get another fuel pressure gauge. I'll check the spark this evening. Should I look at replacing the coil module as well?
Should I also look at swapping out the fuel pump? I currently have a double pumper. Could it be defective?
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at this point, I see nothing that says the module or coil is bad. I assume this worked okay before?
I would verify that the fuel pressure is actually jumping around first, but, if you can take power off the second pump, I would do that to see if the pressure stabilizes. If the second pump is going off and on...or coming in too early, it could cause a problem since the regulator probably cannot deal with the extra fuel at low speed
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Roger, the coil pack and module did work before. The double pumper is new. I'll get that new gauge this weekend and let you know what gives.
Thanks and have a wonderful weekend.
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try unplugging one of the pumps..I hate those damn things
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If both pumps are running when not into boost it will over power the regulator and cause the car to run rich. I have my second pump set around 14 psi (Hobbs switch) to kick in.
Sometimes I will manually kick the second pump on with the hood up to see if the fuel pressure jumps up & to hear the pump run. I also have an idot light that comes on in the cabin when the second pump comes on but all that is really saying is that current is being supply to the pump which does not mean it's really working. That is why I check the second pump every now and then.
Hi Bob, are you sure that cam sensor is in right? Steve, "You Thee Man" :rock: Trust me, God has a special place for you. :cheers:
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I hope so! It takes forever to figure something out long distance sometimes. I had one guy that was setting the cam sensor on #2 tdc..guess he was a ford guy
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Hey Steve, got that new gauge and put it on the fuel rail. Here are the results: The gauge went to 80 when the key was turned on and the fuel pump built up pressure. When the pump went off, the pressure went down to 43psi. When I started it, the pressure went up to 100psi. The car was able to run for about 5 seconds before dying.
What is different is that the car didn't sound like it had a miss. It didn't smell like it was flooding out either and there is no black smoke coming out the tail end.
I'm not sure if the double pumper could be isolated to just one pump. It's a Racetronix G7 double pump system. There is a hot wire kit, but it also connects to the stock connector. I'll take a look online.
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If you have the Racetronix DP Harness you can change the wires easily for which pump is the primary & which comes on at xxlbs boost. My Hobbs switch is set for 15lbs on 2nd pump. I have one of the first 5 made & they are all non adjustable with Hobbs switch.
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Hey Will, good to "see" you. I'm pretty sure that the sensor is good. I do believe that I have another one. I do have one question for you though Will; did you get a balencer from TA Performance? If so, is the second tic mark the 25* ATDC? I ask that because the marker that came with the cam sensor tool doesn't line up with the tick mark on the balencer. I used the marker that came with the cam sensor tool as my 25* ATDC mark BTW.
You mention the Hobbs switch. Well, I don't know if my pump came with that Hobbs switch as I had gotten it from Gbodyparts. I did get the hot wire kit though. Is it an electrical switch? An add on? Light bulb!! Please tell me more about that Hobbs switch and where it is located. A pic would help a lot. I think that's the problem.
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Hey all, well this is embarrassing. Yeah, looking through my work bench, I found the Hobbs switch that I neglected to install.
Can someone please steer me to some instructions on how to install it?
I apologize for wasting your all's time. I do thank you all for helping me as much as you have.
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Hobbs switch needs a Vac Source & I "think" mine is tapped into EGR line (which I don't use anyways) or any good place to put a T in the line. Not sure it might need a power source but my memory is poor! Altho it seems to me that it has a Pos-Neg plug on the bottom??
I'm sure many here can explain better!
Pretty basic stuff & trust me I am NO Electronics wizard!!
I'll look tomorrow if nobody responds by then. :cheers:
PS: The Hobbs switch only actvates 2nd pump under boost so it may not be an issue for just keeping the car running.
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sure sounds like both pumps are running to get that kinda pressure...unl ess the regulator is not regulating.... got to figure out which it is...
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I'm pretty sure it's both pumps running at the same time. I have to install that Hobbs switch. Once I do that I'll get back to you and let you all know what's up.
Just need to find some instructions on how to install it. Hoping that William will chime back in.
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Bob, I used the a stock balancer and used a measuring tape to make a mark for the 25 degree spot, than filed a small slot there so the spot would never be lost. You hook the Hobbs switch up to a vaccuun/boost hose and than wire it into the second pump. I'm sure there are directions on here as to how far from the TDC balancer mark to make the 25 degree ATDC mark and someone here most likely has install directions from Racetronix as to how to wire everything up including the Hobb switch or go to their site or give them a call. I did this stuff a long time ago so this stuff is not fresh in my head and I would not want to give you any bum information offhand.
Bill
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If you have a stock balancer I would double check to make sure that the one you think is TDC on the TA balancer really is. Look at the crankshaft key slot on the stocker and where the TDC mark is in relation to it, then compare it to the TA balancer to be sure you are using the right slot on that balancer for TDC.
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Success! I was reading on the Racetronix site how the two fuel pumps are jumpered to run at all times. I removed one of the jumpers and the car started right up and continued to run albeit it was still running rough. I only ran it on 3 occasions for about a minute or two at a time. There was a lot of smoke this time, it literally filled the man cave.
One thing though: The fuel gauge still read 80psi when the fuel pump first kicked on to build pressure. When running, the gauge was at over 100psi. However the car kept running this time.
I'm thinking that the fuel regulator spring is sprung. I'm going to replace that next. It is very old, I can't even remember where or how I came to it.
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well, at 100 psi, it is getting 52% more fuel than it is supposed to at idle....it will not run properly like that and it is probably filling the oil with gasoline which would mean, I would change the oil before running it anymore. Cannot be doing the cylinder walls and rings anything but bad things
Might be the thing to do is replace the regulator. I do not see how both pumps running at one time can do anything but flood the engine as the regulator cannot handle the flow as Bill said.
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Roger, I'll be changing that oil and filter first thing today. I'll get that regulator on order first thing in the morning. Good thing I was using Amsoil, hopefully it gave it enough protection to cause little harm. I won't be starting it again until I get that new regulator on. I'll also get that Hobbs switch figured out and installed as well.
Steve and all others: Thank you so very much for helping me out. I truly appreciate your help and especially your patience with me.
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If the regulator does not work check that the fuel return line is OK, not plugged, etc.
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Roger that Will. Thanks. I'll let you all know how it turns out. I'm thinking about heading down to Gbodyparts and picking up that new regulator. It will save the time of shipping.
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Well, I finally went to Gbodyparts today and got another fuel regulator. Put it on and the fuel pressure came up steady and slow until it stopped at 43 PSI. Hit the ignition and it fired up right away and kept running albeit a bit rough. There was no smoke this time. Not one bit. The fuel pressure gauge still reads high. I then shut it down. When I went to start it a second time, the fuel gauge read high, around 65 psi and then went back to 43 psi. I started it and again, no smoke. While it was running rough again, I revved it a couple of times. Again no smoke. However, I noticed a liquid started spewing out from just behind the driver's side head light. I immediately turned off the engine. It was gas. I killed everything and pulled all power from the garage. I have a fan running to get the fuel to evaporate.
The fuel was coming from the vapor canister. I pulled the hose that hooks to a fuel line. It looks like was coming from there. The only thing I can think of at this point is Bill's advice to look at the fuel return line to see if it is plugged. Not sure how it's plugged since all fuel lines are new. PFM I guess.
So, what would be the best way to check to see if the fuel return line is plugged, and how to clear it?
Thank you all for helping me out.
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I removed my vapor canister, and at the hard line end located on the side of the frame rail that goes back to the fuel tank from the canister I installed a 90 degree fitting which connects to the hard line with a short rubber hose to point down towards the ground so no dirt can plug it. I thought about using a fuel filter at the end of that hard line but decided against it. The electrical connection to the vapor canister I just tucked away somewhere if I remember correctly.
I am sure someone on here can tell you why the vapor canister filled with fuel and if I got the electrical part right if you want to remove the vapor canister.
One thing you can do easy is just see if you can blow air back though the return fuel line one way or another. I would use a piece of rubber hose over the return line and use my lungs. if you can not, its pluged for sure but if you can it still may have some kind of restriction like a kink, etc.
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Hey Bill, thanks. I'll be checking out that return line as soon as I can. It might be a week or so though. I have the wife to take care of so I'm going to be out for a bit. I'll let you all know what's up.
Thanks again.
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You know, thinking about it, I might just have the return and fuel vapor lines hooked up wrong. I'll be doing some tracing tomorrow morning.
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gradually working your way there...it is easy to mix the lines up at the tank....
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Well, got the hoses switched after getting a couple of adapters for the lines. Got the gas tank lifted back into place and everything hooked back up. Turned on the ignition and the pressure rose steadily to 43psi. I started it and the pressure stayed at 43 psi. After the engine warmed up, it was pretty smooth, a whole lot smoother of a idle than before. Pressure always stayed the same at 42/43 psi. No smoke, a good clean burn it seemed. Scanmaster readings are as follows:
AF 07
L8 45
BAT 13.4
INT 128
BL 138
ATS 104
R 875 (Had some variation from 800 to 950 at times)
TPS .42
IAC 109
cc 131
Please let me know if these readings are good or if I need to make more changes.
Thanks again to all who helped me. Your help made me persevere through all these problems.
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sounds pretty good to me! should be a lot better than where you started a few weeks ago!