IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: phil_long on October 03 2012, 10:22:22 AM
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my mom just took the car to get it inspected since im at work. the car passed inspection, but the guy claims that there was "air" in the lines of the radiator, and if the car sits too long that it will over heat. Im like at what temp did this happen? she says its all written down. Im thinking to myself that his definition of overheating could be different than ours. :rolleyes; We'll see tho
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there is usually air in the system initially after draining the radiator. It will eventually purge after a few heat cycles. You can speed the process along by removing the radiator cap when it is cold and adding some coolant to top it off...or you can wait and it should blow out into the reservoir and be replaced by the coolant in the reservoir.
Sounds normal to me
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How much rubber did your Mom put down?
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No rubber (hopefully). Now i have to fig out what's going on with the car. Apparently, when she got home, it WAS overheating. That's weird to me simply because i had no issues what so ever last night driving the car home. She said that the coolant in the coolant resovoir tank was bubbling. :x This is about to send me in flames. Lol. I just want to get ahead
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AND, is it possible that the t-stat is bad? i went to change it out but never did since they didnt have any 160's that would fit. I didn't see a point in replacing my 180 with another.
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she said that the water temp light came on
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I know I'm ranting, but i didnt clear the code that i seen in my Scantool on the drive home. When i got in the car, it was a code 23 in there. I fig'd the shop didn't get a chance to clear the code. I will when i get home. not sure if this is relevant or not tho becuase my SES Light was not present for this code last night when i drove the car home
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You could look it up and see if it is relevant! http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/trouble_codes.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/trouble_codes.htm)
I would look and see if the harness is connected to the sensor
On the overheating, I don't know. Was the fan running? Does it have water/coolant in it now? The thermostat could be the culprit among other things. You are going to have to look at it and see what looks out of place.
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if coolant lamp was on you dont have air in the lines you have boiling coolant
code 23 is unrelated as thats air temp the sensor by the airfilter and 23 is low reading which it throws if the sensor is unplugged while key is on , and its a soft code in that it will turn on a SES light and set code but once its reconnected the SES lamp will go out.
you arent running a temp gauge? , what about a scanmaster as it would read out coolant temp
check that the fans are running
if you had water that boils at 212
if coolant mixture it shouldnt bubble until 240, if your rad cap holds pressure it shouldnt have gone to a boil until 260
inform your mom that driving while over heating ranks up there with one of the worst things you can do
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Due to her driving it oppose to me, her looking through the SM wouldnt have helped me much. Im just bringing up the issues now so I know what to go thru when i get home. there is coolant in there oppose to water so I suppose the temp was ridiculously high. fortunately she made it home with the car. i will check the thermostat(put it in boiling water?) and see what happens. thanks
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and, im not sure as to how this occurred when the trip back home last night was longer than her trip to the inspection place.
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first start by seeing if the car is full of coolant...if it is not, find out where it leaked out (I am assuming that the reservoir did not overflow. Might check the oil to make sure it is not a milkshake.
Then, if the car is full of coolant, crank it up and see if the fan runs. If not, fix it.
If the system is full of coolant, and the fan runs, then check if the coolant is circulating... .when cool remove the radiator cap and see if coolant is flowing thru the tubes and into the passenger side radiator tank. You should also be able to grab the upper radiator hose and feel if it gets hot/hard at 180 degs...(check the the CLT on the SM to check for the 180 for the thermostat opening and 197, or a bit more, to see if the fan comes on
If the coolant is full, fan on, and coolant not circulating... then pull the thermostat
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thanks Steve
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And keep in mind that the overflow bottle having bubbling coolant doesn't necessarily mean boiling.
It could be the radiator burping air out. In that case, it will draw coolant back in when it cools down. That's pretty normal after opening up the cooling system.
Any idea if your thermostat has a steam hole in it (and clocked to be on the topside). Without one of those it will take quite a few heat cycles to fully burp the system.
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these are good points. unfortunatley Earl, i dont know what the steam hole is. guess i should've taken a pic of that when i had it out. AND, if it is in there, i didnt know it would have had to go in a specific way. im learning though so take it easy on me
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It would have been a hole that you drilled in it...not sure how well they work on a Buick because I noticed the holes I had drilled in mine were pretty much blocked by the housing...
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hmmm. Ok.
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So, i ran the car up to 183 and i never seen the fluid get sucked down into the radiator. the hose going into the water outlet did eventually get hot, but it was way after the 180 mark. My fan also didn't kick on.
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And, the car was full of fluid. the fluid that filled up in the resovoir had flowed back into the radiator when i made it home. my mom said when she got out the car earlier, the coolant had pushed up to pass the full mark. it wasnt past full last night when i drove it though
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I got it fixed. I forgot about that fan connector i had to fix before i sent the car off. Just fixed it. fan came right on at 197, car warmed up to 203, dropped back down instantly to 190, and the fan turned off. SO we good to go
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Need to fix that connector...or by a new one from Caspers and replace it...much ado about nothing. Nice when it turns out to be simple
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Im going to replace the t-stat though because it's not opening until about 200 or so. Got the car out this morning, and it ran up to 210, then never went above 200 once it came back down to 190. i enjoy learning. so would you all recommend a 160 or 180?
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180 or 190 only.
Where do you live?
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I prefer 160 or 180, but I have doubts at the moment about the 160's quality
the problem with the 180 is that your new chip programs the fan to come on earlier so it will run more than it needs to. I am sure Eric can fix it for you if you request it.
Before you change the thermostat, put your new injectors in and the chip and see how the temperature acts.
Above 180 is too hot.
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180 or 190 only.
Where do you live?
Lol. Im in Saint Louis!! Thing is, with a sticking T-Stat and a fan that's not designed to run until 197, I'd expect temps like that.
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I prefer 160 or 180, but I have doubts at the moment about the 160's quality
the problem with the 180 is that your new chip programs the fan to come on earlier so it will run more than it needs to. I am sure Eric can fix it for you if you request it.
Before you change the thermostat, put your new injectors in and the chip and see how the temperature acts.
Above 180 is too hot.
Got it.
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remember that your fan is not coming on until 197 so there is nothing to keep the temperature below that other than the air flow thru the radiator when you are driving. So your temp is going to be higher than it will be with the new chip
Also, I often notice that the first time the thermostat opens in the morning, that it goes higher than it does the rest of the day...
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remember that your fan is not coming on until 197 so there is nothing to keep the temperature below that other than the air flow thru the radiator when you are driving. So your temp is going to be higher than it will be with the new chip
Also, I often notice that the first time the thermostat opens in the morning, that it goes higher than it does the rest of the day...
Nice. I'll keep this in mind my good sir. Thanks
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And, the car run so good now, one can only wonder how well it's going to run with this TT chip and injectors!! :D
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It should have better drivability..s moother at all points....and if you can run more boost, which you should if the fuel pump and hot wire are good, then you may have another 20-30 hp
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with the tt chip the coolant fan will also come on sooner at 168
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The car is set at about 12 lbs right now with the stock chip. The TT chip is set at 17 i believe. The new fuel pump is in there with the hotwire kit. Im extremely excited. Installing this weekend. The car is still a bit scary to drive. When i tap the gas she just go. Never experienced turbo spool this fast.
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LOL
it gets better...
Now, let's get your hard headed cuz straightened out because he won't be too happy when he finds out how a Regal is supposed to run
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LOL
it gets better...
Now, let's get your hard headed cuz straightened out because he won't be too happy when he finds out how a Regal is supposed to run
Lol. I been trying. Dude has everything done to his car, ranging from GN1 Heads, to cam, etc. Its so annoying to watch that pretty car of his sit there like it is. All he needs is a turbo(thats what's wrong with it) to make it driveable. :O
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hell, we are going to have to kick his ass with your car, then!
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hell, we are going to have to kick his ass with your car, then!
:rock: :rock:
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Went out to buy a 160 T-stat. They gave me the wrong one at first. That Mr. Gasket brand is complete shit!!! But the Duralast??? Frigging perfect!! Just installed it, and the car runs perfectly cool!!!!! Between 162 and 167. Progress is my middle name now baby!!!!
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damn, I did not think Duralast had one in our size...Phillip Progress Long...got a nice ring to it!
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was that a 3846 ?
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now, buy this and put 8 oz in every six months
http://www.amazon.com/RMI-25-Cooling-System-Treatment-Quart/dp/B004JV8PI0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1 (http://www.amazon.com/RMI-25-Cooling-System-Treatment-Quart/dp/B004JV8PI0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1)
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damn, I did not think Duralast had one in our size...Phillip Progress Long...got a nice ring to it!
I can go for that. My actual last name now is Jordan. It's been changed since 6th grade but I enjoyed being a LONG for so long. And yes, it's a 3846. RMI huh?
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yeah, it will actually help keep it a little cooler in the summer, but, it will keep the system clean and remove some of the deposits that are in the engine now plus keep the water pump seal in good condition for a longer time
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Ok, Phillip Progress Air Jordan
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Or Phillp No Air, No Mo, Jordan
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:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
They all seem to work just fine!!
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damn, I did not think Duralast had one in our size...Phillip Progress Long...got a nice ring to it!
:rofl: