IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => Transmissions => Topic started by: dyermullet on August 27 2012, 12:23:00 AM
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Once I got my replacement trans up in the car I dropped the pan and found this.
(http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/rr337/87buickregal/DSCN0354.jpg)
Their are no wires connected to the solenoids. I am going to pull out my factory manual tomorrow but I need some help. The trans is a 84-85 and my car is a 87. It looks like it has the two pressure switches that I need. I labeled them 1 and 2 in the picture can someone tell me which one is 3rd gear and which one is 4th?
I need to buy the connector for those switches, and I need the 4 pin connector that passes through the case.
Where can I get those, does anyone have part numbers or a source?
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Odd - they look to be bypassed.
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I am confused what do you mean bypassed? Someone cut the wires to the switches, the TCC is still wired up that is the two wires you see in the picture.
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Oh.... Oops.
So they just cut the connectors off and left the wires disconnected? Weird..
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ck will have the harness for the brf. once you have it the hookup will be obvious
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Oh.... Oops.
So they just cut the connectors off and left the wires disconnected? Weird..
Harness cut off wires gone. I recognized right away what was missing.
ck will have the harness for the brf. once you have it the hookup will be obvious
Thanks I will look into it. Can you send me a link to ck website. It is early and I am having a brain cramp on who ck is. Plus I am at work so I try to minimize my non work internet usage.
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ckperformance. com
heres a diagram
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an alternative is to ask your chip maker if he is using these switches
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Thanks for the help everyone. Does anyone have a procedure for how to adjust the shifter, I need to adjust the cable to the trans, and the trans to the linkage that goes to the column.
Steve,
They are being used turbo tweak gen 6.0 (or whatever it is called). I need to switches for the programing plus I want the converter to lockup in 4th when going down the road.
Scott
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ckperformance. com
heres a diagram
I feel like a dumby now, I knew who CK is. I have been out of the buick scene for about 3 years and just forgot all this stuff. I am glad I found this forum though. I got directed here asking asking on V8buick.com.
This trans is a BQ17 I think. It only currently has a three wire connector but there looks to be two pressure switches inside. So if the one pointing down that I labeled "1" in the diagram 4th gear and the one with the "2" third gear? I am assuming that based on the wiring digram you gave me shows the trans that only have 4th gear lockup are all in the same area, so it makes sence to me that area of the valve body is 4th.
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Welcome!
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for some reason, I thought Eric did not use the switches and that he locked the converter by mph only...need to go do some reading I guess :)
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You have options mine will only lock in 4th gear above 55 MPH. I requested that with no lockup in 3rd because it mades my car lug the engine a little bit. Also with his chips the 3rd gear switch is important because of tunable settings for ignition timing, also WOT fuel, and AFR with a wide band are adjusted based on if the car is in 1or2 and then 3or4. That is 6 different points that are user adjustable. Like I said earlier I have been out of the game for 3 years but at that time his chips seemed like the best around and I have two one for stock injectors and one for 65lb running E85. I have been very happy with his chips, the E85 tune out of the box killed my trans first trip to the track. My car never idled well and I constantly had to adjust the IAC havn't touched it in 5 years (3 of them don't count). I didn't start the car for about 18 months it fires right up. And it has a tank of old 93 in it so the plugs are all fouled from the wrong tune the car starts and idles and doesn't stall.
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I have only used the SD chips so you are a lot more up to date than me on the conventional chips...put some fresh gas in the tank and run a couple of tanks thru it...change the filter. If it idles okay, I would guess you are good to go
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fresh gas will just foul the plugs out again. I need new plugs and a tank of E85.
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Just wondering if you ever found the procedure for installation & set up of the transmission shifter cable?
If anyone has some details on this, I'd appreciate your help.
thanks,
dave
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Steve
I miss read your post and found some confusion in mine. I had to adjust the iac every 30 days when running a thrasher chip and others. After I went to turbo tweak never had another idle issue never touched it since. Been years
K six
This trans is a loaner from a friend that wanted to see if it was any good. I am still working on the car so have not drove it much. I will rebuild my trans and swap it back in this thing leaks like a sieve. I have a factory service manual just did not have access at the time I posted originally. If I remember I can find the procedure for shifter cable and scan
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it should be obvious as soon as you look at it, there is only one adjustment point on the entire shifter assembly
the shifter is non adjustable
the bracket that holds the cable at the trans pan is non adjustable
the linkage bracket on the trans is not adjustable but the pin where the cable connects is adjustable with a nut on backside of the pin .
if the car doesn't go into park when you slide the shifter forward you need to adjust it at the cable pin (provided the lockout assembly isnt binding it )
before getting under a car safely support and block the wheels
put shifter in park and with trans linkage rotated clockwise (to park)
if it wont go to park because of the lockout rod loosen the 13mm nut on the pivot
adjust the cable pin so that the cable just slides on , tighten the nut at backside of the pin
now the lockout rod is only adjustable at the pivot point where the rod from the steering column meets the rod that goes from the frame to the trans shift linkage bracket and it allows the reverse lights to operate as well as lockout the key in column from turning preventing starting in any gear other than park or neutral
with key off and trans in park lightly push up the rod that hangs from the column , and tighten the 13mm nut
to check you should be able to key on / key off and remove key easily and it should be able to key on and key off with trans in neutral , if not readjust
now with the linkage adjusted you need to ensure that the ecm sees the park switch and that you have reverse lights
theres a white switch under the dash by the floor on top of the steering column that rotates to adjust (it will click as its rotated left or right )
it should self adjust simply by putting the trans into low 1 and then back to park
try it
with key on put car in reverse and see if the rev lights at the tail come on .if not the switch can be adjusted by adjusted as needed by rotating it with your hand
if you have reverse lights you should have the park signal for the ecu when its in park
to verify the park signal to ecu you would need to connect a scantool ( powerlogger or old otc/snapon ) or you could check for ground at pin B10 at ecm
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That is a great write up thank you.
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Thanks PacecarTA.
Much appreciated!
Will giver a try tonight.
I've been having great difficulty getting into Park & also the key will not come out of the ignition in alot of occassions.
Will try the adjustments first, before I attempt to change out the shifter cable that I have sitting in my tool box.
Thanks again.
dave
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heres the lockout diagram
part #13 is the bolt that need to be loosened to adjust the rod to the steering column to slide inside part #15
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heres the shifter diagram
the nut (#10 lower) needs to loosened from #12 (pin) which will allow you to slide it in the slot of the linkage arm