IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: SuperSix on January 22 2012, 10:19:34 AM
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After I put on the new flexplate - I have a question.
I have it installed correctly - (recessed side towards engine) but I noticed that the starter gear won't be able to engage fully. Is this normal? I don't see how shimming will move the starter rearward..
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020402.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020397.jpg)
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never looked at mine to see how far the nose went past the flexplate. Maybe someone else will take a pic so I don't have to jack a car up...Challenge r is apart on the lift at the moment
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I think that is normal, but, I cannot quite focus the picture in the history of my mind
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Don't know how much help it is, but here's mine.
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So it's normal - I wasn't sure if the starter gear completely engaged the flywheel - looks like it doesn't.
I didn't see anyway to adjust it anyway - I know the flexplate is installed correctly.
Thanks!
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That normal for a stock type starter Mark. Just make sure to check the clearence between the shaft and the teeth on the flexplate. You can use a 1/8" allen wrench to check it. Flat to flat should fit right in there.
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What we used to do if we had a starter with noisy engagement was remove the solenoid and engage the drive by hand. We wanted to be able to insert an opened full size paper clip at the point where the gears mesh at their tips. GM is the only one that does this. I used to have a bunch of shims. What some people call starter alignment is more like pinion depth.
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Wonder if subcontractors or suppliers just gradually "cheated" the tooling over the years.
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What we used to do if we had a starter with noisy engagement was remove the solenoid and engage the drive by hand. We wanted to be able to insert an opened full size paper clip at the point where the gears mesh at their tips. GM is the only one that does this. I used to have a bunch of shims. What some people call starter alignment is more like pinion depth.
Even better than that. Most starters come with some shims, and a neat little tool. It's a 1/8" diameter steel rod about 6" long. It's proper usage is to slide it between the flexplate/flywheel teeth, and the starter gear shaft.
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What we used to do if we had a starter with noisy engagement was remove the solenoid and engage the drive by hand. We wanted to be able to insert an opened full size paper clip at the point where the gears mesh at their tips. GM is the only one that does this. I used to have a bunch of shims. What some people call starter alignment is more like pinion depth.
Even better than that. Most starters come with some shims, and a neat little tool. It's a 1/8" diameter steel rod about 6" long. It's proper usage is to slide it between the flexplate/flywheel teeth, and the starter gear shaft.
Since I haven't bought my starters from a mass rebuilder in a long time, who is still doing that? Would a DIY'er remove the solenoid to take the measurement?
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I got a starter from Vatozone years ago and it came with a shim and a rod. Can't say for sure if they still offer it or not.
If you don't want to remove the solenoid just disconnect the large wire that runs from it to the starter motor. Applying power, or having a friend turn to start, the gear will pop up.
Now that I think abou tit, that might not work. Seems like the stocker uses a fairly solid strap to send power to the motor....
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You can use a 1/8" allen wrench Gary, just remember that the flat runs on the starter shaft and the teeth to check the measurement.
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I don't think any of the mini starters were ever shimmed? In the last 25 years, I never saw either shimmed, but, I have not seen a very large percentage