IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: tb3 on December 25 2011, 08:21:25 PM
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anybody install poly energy suspension body bushings before?
they say to torque to factory specs, our buicks are 52 foot lbs, right?
is the bottom bushings supposed to bulge out pretty good?
I've never seen the factory rubber bushings bulge out like this
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52ft lbs seems like a lot..
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Sounds kinda high to me as well. Guess I'll try and find my disc and see what it says.
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well crap! I don't have my disc manual handy. I better back these things off for right now then
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You're right - it is 52ft/lbs.
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52 just feels way to much.
I found this link. http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=45764 (http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=45764)
different bolt size=different torque. and assuming "wet" means with anti seize applied?
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I had bought new body bolts from g body parts, I'll check what size they are in the morning.
I is tired, we had Christmas yesterday, I worked on the Buick all day
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ok, I'm all good to go. I forgot that the bottom half of these poly bushings are angled inward at the top. I put them in about a month or so ago, but I've been waiting to tighten and torque them down until I had my rear suspension work completed and fuel tank reinstalled before I aligned the body.
instructions say to torque to factory specs or until the washer bottoms the sleeve. I bottomed the sleeve on all of them and gave them a extra German torque and am calling it good.
so basically, they where appearing "bulged" because of the sloped head on the bottom bushings.
a good nights sleep also helped.
cars coming along nice, I'll post pics sometime this week.
I'm changing th front input seal on the differential right now, and will also install my killer new alum rear end cover
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I will be changing the front diff seal too - lemme know if you have any tips. What cover? TA?
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ta cover, but I've got couple hours of work into it.
seal is easy if you have the right basic tools.
I'll post tommorowor wed
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the front diff seal has a nut with fine threads (std right hand threads). I put some kroil on mine and let sit a few hours.
I used a impact to remove it. the yoke should slide right off. If it feels stuck, it can easily be tapped from the rear on one of the "ears".
I just used a big flat head screwdriver to pry the seal out. Be careful to not nick surfaces.
I used a machined flat plate and a hammer to tap the new seal in.
I'm a nerd so I bead blasted and painted my yoke (not the surface the seal rides on though)
I'm not sure what the torque is, but all the diff seals I've done in the past I've just tightened down till the yoke is seated, then did 2 seconds of impact on it and called it good. The nut is a lock nut, so make sure it is still doing what its supposed to.
I am probably 3-4 months at least till my engine and trans goes back in. so I just put the driveshaft clamps back on so I wouldn't lose them.
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rear suspension and underneath resto work on the back is done. and yes thats a stock sway bar. I want to see what kind of handling and traction results I get with the new poly body bushings and greaseable poly control arm bushings, and boxed lowers.
those are bilstein shocks, alum drums, all new stainless fuel and brake lines.
If I wasn't confident I'll be keeping the car forever, I'd probably not have shelled out the extra money for stainless. The car shouldn't ever see any salt roads, but what scares me is the dissasimiliar metal corrosion. Seems to always do a number where the tube clamps bolt them to the frame.
The stainless is harder to manage, but I have a tube bender, so if I need to tweak here and there, its no big thing.
I bought them from classic tube, and have actually bought lots of lines from them in the past, and if theres one thing I've noticed is that the bend placement is always dead-on, its just that their not always bent to the correct angle. So spending $40 for a decent tube bender is worth it.
The cover is from ta performance. I painted it and sanded the fins shiny and cleared the whole thing.
With it being aluminum, you can't use the stock cover magnet.
So I thought I'd use the little flat spot area thats cast into it and place a flat magnet there.
I didn't have one laying around, so I bought one from summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FTM-GP101/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FTM-GP101/)
when the box showed up at my door, I picked it up and as I walked through the metal door frame of the house, the box damn near jumped out of my hand, lol!
It then hit me that I may be asking for trouble. this is one seriously wicked magnet.
So I did a mock up and loosely placed a piece of masking tape to hold the magnet in its spot while I put it up to the housing, and it stayed put. So I guess I'm gonna be ok using silicone to hold it there (see pic). I placed it on the side farthest away from the ring gear.
Since I openly claim to not be the brightest candle on the shelf when it comes to alot of things tr,.....If anybody reading this
forsees big disaster by doing it that way, please speak up, lol.
notice the pic where I got the 3/8's drive ratchet, extension and socket just hanging from the outside of the housing after I mounted it. that is one wicked magnet.
I do have the magnetic fill plug also, but hopefully nobody tells me this magnet is overkill. I have removed diff covers before after onlhy a few thousand miles since the last fluid change, and the magnet always has metal on it
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The only difference I will add on the yoke is to measure the difference between the pinion and the nut. If not that make a mark on the nut so you can align it to a specific point or you can over tighten the nut and screw up the bearings.
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thanks charlie.
How would I correct the torque/alignment if I've already removed the nut without measuring it?
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You can't unless you tear into the diff. What you've done is crush the crush sleeve more than it was so you'd need to take it out and replace it with a new one and reset the pinion depth. Not something you can do on the car without taking the carrier out. Sorry about that. Hopefully it's not to tight and the bearings are ok.
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That's what I was worried about when I replace mine.
So - charlie, I should measure the exposed threads before removing the pinion nut? Or measure the exposed part of the pinion before removing?
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Take a punch and dimple the end at a specific location, then make another on the nut that lines up with the first. Count the threads so when you start going back together with it the "dots" line up and you have the same amount of threads exposed. Did that make sense Mark?
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Yes sir - makes perfect sense. Kind of like replacing a tie rod end.. Count the turns, etc.
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LOL I always measure the tie rods from outside to outside and use that. It keeps it a little closer that way.
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just checked the pinon nut thread depth with 2 other 8.5 rears, and I needed to tighten this one a half turn.
Thats something I'll look out for in the future.
thanks guys
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just checked the pinon nut thread depth with 2 other 8.5 rears, and I needed to tighten this one a half turn.
Thats something I'll look out for in the future.
thanks guys
Don't even think about it. Each axle and pinion are different so you can't use one to check another. Grab hold of the front of the yoke and see if there's any movement up and down. It should have very little but it should have some. If it does then you may be fine, but don't tighten it up any further until you check everything out. If you over tighten it you will ruin the bearings and possibly the gears.
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dang it!!! how am I gonna have a reason to redo a bone stock rear if I do the job right???
lol! I'll check when I get home tonight. I'll also break out the book and do a little double checking and reading. The cars not going anywhere for awhile.