IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: SuperSix on August 22 2011, 12:12:39 AM
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Anyone have an opinion on these kits? Also - what's the main reason for wideband? More accurate measurement of A/F? What practical reason is there for basic street use?
http://www.turbotweakstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1050 (http://www.turbotweakstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1050)
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So far I'm leaning towards AEM or
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/103_107/products_id/357 (http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/103_107/products_id/357)
these NTK may be a bit tougher.
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Having bought two Innovate lc-1s and having one blow on start up, and having another lose the analog section after a couple of years, I have a replacement for the first one still sitting in the box.
I would buy the AEM or the Plx before I bought another lc-1. I have not checked the forums lately, but, there were many posting with the same problems as me. I did not see as many problems with their LM model.
the factory sensor is a narrow band sensor which means it is only truly accurate at 14.7 to 1. See the write up on my site. I built my first wideband about 12 years ago and I still use it on my carbureted cars at times.
Wide band sensors give an air fuel ratio that is generally accurate between 10-1 to 17-1 air to fuel. This is very handy for tuning seriously fast cars. After several years, I have realized however, that I can tune just as well using the factory sensor and going as lean as possible without incurring timing retard...when I see a hint of retard, I add a little fuel or cut the boost a pound for safety margin.
I know this is heresy, but, let's face it, guys have run into the Nines without a wideband so it is not much of an effort to run safely in the elevens. Some guys bench race theory all day, I prefer to run whatever works for me.
At the moment I am running open loop speed density chips in both cars...I am running open loop because the the wide band failed on both cars so I said to heck with it. One car has the digital side working, but, the analog side which drives fueling is dead. If they die at the wrong time, it can be quite damaging.
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I know this is heresy, but, let's face it, guys have run into the Nines without a wideband so it is not much of an effort to run safely in the elevens. Some guys bench race theory all day, I prefer to run whatever works for me.
At the moment I am running open loop speed density chips in both cars...I am running open loop because the the wide band failed on both cars so I said to heck with it. One car has the digital side working, but, the analog side which drives fueling is dead. If they die at the wrong time, it can be quite damaging.
With that being said. What would you recommend doing on a run for tuning when the NBO2 reads: 760 right after launch, and peders off to 713 at the end of the run??
It's a gocha question. ;-)
My wideband read a steady: 11.40 for the run. NBO2 are terribly unreliable for anything off of stoiceometric. If I had seen 713 back when all I had was a NBO2, I would have been adding fuel.
Didn't need it though as can be seen.
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I guess you missed the point about no timing retard? There is no "gotcha" because I was taught that the nb was a switching sensor and that one tunes by avoiding knock as the factory sensor was meaningless. Example on my site showing the difference between a wb and a factory nb.
You must have missed this as well in my post above?
the factory sensor is a narrow band sensor which means it is only truly accurate at 14.7 to 1. See the write up on my site. I built my first wideband about 12 years ago and I still use it on my carbureted cars at times.
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I've had NO issues with either my LC-1 or MTX-L... I really like the MTX-L. REALLY LIKE IT!
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I've had NO issues with either my LC-1 or MTX-L... I really like the MTX-L. REALLY LIKE IT!
I have heard some good things about it. Hopefully it will be more reliable than the lc-1. Maybe they will trade me for my unused LC-1?
:D