IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Spoolin' on January 06 2011, 05:58:22 PM
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What sounded like a sticky lifter turns out to be a flat lobe on the cam. My engine has about 6000 miles on it, and when it was built a Poston cam was installed. The cam I currently have I do not know the numbers on it, but it is two stages up from a stock grind. I don't mind it, but with my mods it doesn't really gain me anything either.
Here are my mods and what I am planning to add this spring. I'd like to get some input from the GN guru's here that have more experience with these turbo v6 cars since this is my first one.
Current Mods
-.030 rebuild
-cold air intake
-36# injectors
-ATR Pitbull chip
-Adjustable fuel psi regulator
-Fuel pump hotwire kit
Mods to come:
-Turbo Tweak chip
-3" Single Exhaust w/3" downpipe
As you can see, I have and what I'm going for is merely a bolt-on car. I want something that is quite driver friendly as I drive this car to work almost every nice day in the summer, heavily on the weekends, and to and from my girlfriend's house which is 40 miles away, so I don't want to take away any of the fuel economy either (I lose enough thru the gas pedal
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Silly question, but why not a stock cam?
Gurus - are the stock cams worth a crap?
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For your setup, I would not get too wild with cam selection.
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Silly question, but why not a stock cam?
Gurus - are the stock cams worth a crap?
That's my question also. The way I see it, a stock cam would be fine for my setup.
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For your setup, I would not get too wild with cam selection.
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One step up, two steps up...I love it when you guys get technical!
this is my recommendation http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001BU208CAM+eq++Tp+
remember you must get all the debris from the old cam out, or, you will be doing it again shortly
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we were waiting for a real gooroo to show up
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One step up, two steps up...I love it when you guys get technical!
this is my recommendation
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As Steve said also said make sure you clean out the block. That lobe material needs to be boiled out of the block. Also get a new oil cooler if you had one or remove it. Also try and figure out why it wiped after 6000 miles or it may happen again.
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As Steve said also said make sure you clean out the block. That lobe material needs to be boiled out of the block. Also get a new oil cooler if you had one or remove it. Also try and figure out why it wiped after 6000 miles or it may happen again.
This is why I keep my stock cam - way too many stories about wiped cam lobes with aftermarket. (Well, that, and I don't need anything more aggressive than stock)
Why is that?
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99% of failed aftermarket cams appear to come from poor installation/break in techniques or sorry imported lifters that are not properly hardened.
The stock cam is matched very well to the stock turbo.
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I checked a few other manufacturer's out, but this morning I placed an order the 208 cam, lifters, and pushrods from Full Throttle. Should have parts next week sometime. :cool;
Its hard to say why that cam got wiped out so early, but as Steve said without a larger turbo and better flowing heads, a cam with more duration won't do any good. The guy doing the R&R for me owns probably the best independent shop around these parts, is a gearhead to the end, and the only guy I trust to work on my cars other than me. We have discussed cleansing the block, and he made the same mention as ULYCYC.
I can't wait to get it running right and install my new tranny.... Then let it sit for the rest of the winter :rolleyes:
I will have a BRF core for sale in the near future if anyone is interested.
Again, thanks for all of your help fella's :cool;
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Maybe you can recommend good lifters to go with his cam purchase?
Thanks for clearing up why they wipe.
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If your heads and or block been machined the over the counter pushrods will be too long. Get a pushrod length checker to make sure. This may have also wiped out your first cam.
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Maybe you can recommend good lifters to go with his cam purchase?
Thanks for clearing up why they wipe.
altho expensive, I prefer GM lifters. According to the mags there Johnson and someone else are once again making lifters in this country.
The original GM lifter had a stelite foot on it...hopefully they still do.
I think Earl had some information on such at one time
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If your heads and or block been machined the over the counter pushrods will be too long. Get a pushrod length checker to make sure. This may have also wiped out your first cam.
Definately. I'll contact the fella who I purchased the car from and get block info. :prayer:
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Block info.... I can help you sir.
109 casting, made of iron, 6 cylinders, 231 CID. Am I missing anything? :finga:
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I have the old Poston 202/202 cam and I think it's great. Pulls hard and ZERO lope at idle.
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I have the old Poston 202/202 cam and I think it's great. Pulls hard and ZERO lope at idle.
Since when did your Buick run?
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Block info.... I can help you sir.
109 casting, made of iron, 6 cylinders, 231 CID. Am I missing anything?
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I have the old Poston 202/202 cam and I think it's great. Pulls hard and ZERO lope at idle.
Since when did your Buick run?
My GN isn't broken, it's waiting on a turbo and IC that I just can't afford. When it was last on the street it ran like a motherfucker. My setup is, IMO, pretty awesome.
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what kinda turbo are you looking for?
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I stopped down at the shop today to drop off my new tranny, and found a new suprise
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Hello he has a ATR Pit Bull Chip...that needs to be dumped asap...waaaay too much timing...get Eric's chip or Bob Bailey's for your combo
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Hello he has a ATR Pit Bull Chip...that needs to be dumped asap...waaaay too much timing...get Eric's chip or Bob Bailey's for your combo
Already ahead of you. As soon as its up and running, Mr. Marshall will be getting whats left of my hard earned money :psix;
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Well, $75 bucks of it anyway...or have they gone up? At any rate, that is some of the best money you can spend on you TR.
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I stopped down at the shop today to drop off my new tranny, and found a new suprise
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He isn't doing the work himself, and the heads are being pulled off.
IMO, the clown he bought the car from just slapped the engine back together to get it sold. I know the story behind it, but I'm not at liberty to say anything. Bad deal. :mad;
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subscribing
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Here's the latest update -
The engine is on the stand, and the heads are at the machine shop. I'm having them checked and all valves/springs/seats replaced if needed. Hopefully I'll have them back next week. No diagnosis on them yet, but the way it looks to me is that the valve is not the correct one... Not sure though.
I got my new cam, lifters, and pushrods from Full Throttle. I dropped them off the other day. Once the heads are back, re-assembly can begin.
As my good friend 1twisted6 stated, I bought this car from a "GN guy". He had a couple TR's sitting around (one of which was a GNX), and a few other Buicks from the 60s and 70s. I bought the car for what I felt was a damn good price, and the recently rebuilt engine had approx. 200 miles on it as I was told from the previous owner. I bought the car, and drove it very gentle for the first 1000 miles of ownership. I found some loose bolts, turbo oil line fitting to the block was finger tight with no teflon on the threads, loose oil pan bolts, etc. I signed the paper saying 'AS-IS'. Not really a big deal to me, and I expected to work some kinks out of it anyhoo.
I drove the car all summer problem free. 1twisted6 helped me tune the car to get decent boost - was only getting 10 psi, changed the solenoid and adjusted my wastegate actuator - set up a scanmaster, and added a boost, oil psi, and temp gauges. Throughout the summer, the tranny got softer and softer thru a 2-3 shift under WOT. I knew what was coming next... and planned accordingly. I knew it wasn't long when I wasn't getting any lockup in OD. However, I didn't plan on a top-end rebuild either, but thats the breaks. My friend who is doing my engine work couldn't find anything other than that valve and a worn lobe... He thinks the original cam just wasn't broke-in properly.
Hopefully it will be better than when I got it. I have really gotten into these Turbo 6 cars since selling my 60's Muscle cars. I still love a throbbing big block thru a pair of Flowmasters, but when I made the decision to start a business something had to go... And the big $$ went just before the market tanked. Someday, I'll have another to park along side my Buick :)
More updates to follow. Thanks again to everyone for there help, I greatly appreciate it.
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Well, boys and girls, the saga continues and can only be described in one word - Fuck.
The engine came all the way out of the car, while removing the old tranny to make way for the new one, it was easy to notice that two motor mounts were the only thing holding the engine in the car, so out it came to the stand.
With the engine out, the oil pan was pulled. Lots of debris in the pan. I was able to get a much better look at the cam bearings, which are all fucked. The front one is scored DEEP. the other three are starting to peel apart like a hangnail. At this point I said to hell with it, its all going to the machine shop. The oil galleys for the cam bearings weren't lined up correctly, I'm not sure the cam journals are straight just because of how my friend who owns the shop the car is at described how tight the cam came out, and after seeing what was in the pan, I'd be a damn fool not to boil that block out and have the line bore checked for the cam. And I sure as hell want the rod and crank bearings checked out. The one positive thing I have to say is that the cylinder walls still have a nice cross-hatch machine finish to them.
I didn't plan on a rebuild, but for the effort of removing 12 more bolts, I want everything checked out. The flipside is I trust everyone doing the work, and I have a feeling after everything is rebuilt, it won't have to come apart for a very, very long time :)
Its obvious to me that the fella I bought the car from couldn't build an engine out of Lego's. So many corners were cut putting this thing together... I'm not an engine builder, but I'm very involved in every process and know my share about how engines work. IMO, this thing got slapped together so he could make a quick sale. I bought the car AS-IS, so there's nothing that can be done about it (not that I would pursue or have the time to pursue legal action). I plan to conduct a very polite, formal letter letting this guy know that I'm not impressed with his work and that I have no hard feelings toward him. I paid a damn good price for the car, and even though I'm sticking $5k in it, its worth it.
I got a few pic's with my camera phone:
(http://i31.servimg.com/u/f31/14/41/27/89/01170110.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=418&u=14412789)
(http://i31.servimg.com/u/f31/14/41/27/89/01170111.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=419&u=14412789)
The heads are already at the machine shop, and the block left this morning. Should have it all back the week after next. I'm going to have the machine shop assemble the long block while they have it also. For the time being, I'm going to get some painting done while the engine is out, clean up the firewall, and a couple other things like paint my valve covers :cool;
More to come.
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Wow. Good attitude. At least now you can have some faith in it, and a bad-ass engine compartment. :)
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the bright side of the matter is that you will know that it was put together properly...
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I went to the shop today where my car is at, and did a bunch of cleanup on the engine bay and undercarriage. First, I soaked the oil/grease/grime/old undercoating off of everything, then I wiped it all clean. This car is so solid it would make one's head spin. Still had black paint underneath all the gunk :D
After I got some of that scrubbed up, I put a nice, new thin layer of undercoating on the tunner while the tranny was out. I also scrubbed the crossmember, control arms, and front frame rails and gave them a re-do. Everything looks nice except for the firewall, which didn't take well to a cleaning. I'm going to have to touch it up with some gloss before the engine comes back.
I'm also going to paint up my valve covers before they go back on, I have an idea for a black cover w/some aluminum accent on the top. If they don't turn out, I can always go back to gray :)
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I think satin is closer to right for the firewall
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Talked with the guy at the machine shop today... :mad:
I've been taking this quite well I think, considering I'm reffered to as a hot head by many of my family and friends. But today I've had enough of the bad news with my engine. Turns out the piston rings were installed incorrectly, the ARP studs were not champfered over, one connecting rod was very tight at the piston, and my rod and cranks bearings are fucked thanks to the cam debris.
The shop is going to take .010 off the crank and get new bearings for everything. Fix my valve issue, and assemble my engine. He said it will be well into February before I get it back as they're being ordered to paint there shop by the owner (who I work for part-time at one of his 17 parts stores). Not a big rush right now, but I made it clear I will want my car back on the road by April 1st, and he said it shouldn't be a problem at all :)
I've kicking around the idea of writing a very professional yet get-my-point-across letter to the guy I bought my car from. He talked a big game, but its very obvious that he couldn't build an anthill out of sand. It won't get me anywhere, but I'd like to make it clear that I am not impressed with his craftsmanship. This motherfucker calls me every couple of months to see whats new with the car... I wonder if he knew his work wouldn't last?? Nonetheless I'll never buy anything else from him nor will I recommend anyone to buy anything from him. He's a big wheeler dealer on TB.com, but I know how the clique works over there so I won't post it up. What burns my ass is when he fucked someone else on parts, I read the post and called him to let him know what was going on.... Only to have my own issues shortly there after :mad:
Oh well, on to bigger and better engines :cool;
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If you talk to 10 machinists on how to build a engine you will get 10 opinions and they all can be right.
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that is good advice....no use in looking back...I doubt the guy deliberately messed up the engine...and, as Ed says, one thing goes bad, the debris will soon mess up everything else...that is the reason we are always insistent that the engine be completely gone thru. Most don't heed the advice, but...
Take it with a grain of salt and go forward....
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When I saw all of the garbage in the oil pan, I decided there would be no corners cut putting it back together, because someone cut corners the first time.
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Curious, How many miles did you put on the car since purchase?
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Approx. 6,000 miles. When I bought the car, the engine alledgedly had 250 miles on it. I drove it very cautiously for the first 1000 miles before I started stepping into it or anything. I never raced the car at a track yet, and the only mods I installed were a boost gauge, oil psi gauge, and temp gage. It came with a CAI on it already... and had the shitty pitbull chip also.
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So at 500 miles did you change the oil and cut the oil filter open and check?
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To be honest, I don't remember. I know I changed the oil early, like a couple weeks after I bought it, because I changed all the fluids. If there would've been something suspicious, I would've caught it.
I know I'll be overly cautious this round, as I am with all of my vehicles.
Let me ask this - what oil is everyone running? Are you using ZDDP? Do you still run 10w30?
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To be honest, I don't remember. I know I changed the oil early, like a couple weeks after I bought it, because I changed all the fluids. If there would've been something suspicious, I would've caught it.
I know I'll be overly cautious this round, as I am with all of my vehicles.
Let me ask this - what oil is everyone running? Are you using ZDDP? Do you still run 10w30?
The first oil change is very important after break-in. The first start-up oil is loaded with assembly lube that clogs up the oil filter and if metal particles mix with it, surfaces can wipe out in short time. Inspecting the filter can show this. You can be as responsible for the engines demise as you feel others are...
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I run whatever weight oil it takes to maintain at least 15 psi oil pressure at hot idle....
I run a good oil that has sufficient zddp in it in the first place. I do not run additives. There are many oils out there now that are professionally blended that are made for older cars. These have plenty of zddp in them.
Most of the original zddp scare was aimed at cars with very stiff valve springs as used with full blown race cams but the snake oil guys jumped on the bandwagon and stretched the limits of the truth considerably.
Brad Penn, Valvoline Racing, Castrol whatever they call theirs, Joe Gibbs, Mobil One 15-50, Comp Cams, Z Alt, Amsoil whatever they call theirs, etc. all have plenty of zddp.
The initial break in is where most people go wrong. One definitely needs an additive such as GM EOS, or comp cams, etc.
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A lot has happened in the last 6 weeks since my last post. I have since quit my job and went to work for at the shop where my car is at. Not only is it a great change of pace, its also quite lucrative too. Having been a dealership employee most of my young life, the independent scene is so much easier.
I haven't gotten my engine back, but it is deemed to arrive late next week. The block was dismantled and cleaned. The cam journals were line bored, and thank goodness they were straight. I got a fresh set of bearings, new rings, and the wrist pin issue fixed. Turns out on removal of all the pistons, they were all tight at the pin. Told the machine shop to fix it, because as I said before, I don't want this to come apart anymore. As far as my valve issue, from what can be seen is it appears someone over-did the valve job last time and dressed the tips at the very end. I'm having all new seats, valves, and keepers installed while there apart. Once I get the long block back, I can bolt my intake on and put it back in the car :D
I do have a question for some of you Veterans - Is it easier to put the engine in with or without the intake on? I know getting the valve covers off can be a pain in the ass depending on which one you're removing... To me it seems easier to bolt all the accessories on while the engine is on the stand, then do the install. This is also the first one I've had to do, so what do I know?
As far as the detailing goes, I've since painted the firewall with a semi-flat black that blends quite well over the original. I also did some "spring cleaning on my intercooler and got all the black residue out of it. I then repainted it and painted the intercooler shroud with the semi-flat. Next up is to order a re-pop intercooler tag from TR unless I find a cooler decal to put there instead. Today I'm going in to prep and paint my drive pulleys, intercooler fan, driveshaft, and finish undercoating the lower control arms. The snow is melting fast here, and by this time next month I'll be on the road with it. :psix;
Some other goodies I ordered was a new air filter. I went with an AEM dryflow filter as its oil free and came well recommended to me by my friend/boss. I also ordered up my TT chip from Eric last week, and got me a sweet ASC vanity plate for the front with a pair of tinted plate covers. They are illegal in WI, but I put a pair on Ms. Spoolin's car when she bought it 2 years ago and she's had no trouble... But then again her driving record isn't as colorful as mine, either :rolleyes:
All this means is that I should finally register my plates to the car, so when I get stopped I only get a warning instead of tickets...
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Here's a couple of shots of my GN in its current sad state of affairs:
(http://i61.servimg.com/u/f61/14/41/27/89/03050110.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=520&u=14412789)
(http://i61.servimg.com/u/f61/14/41/27/89/03050112.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=522&u=14412789)
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Lookin good! Glad to hear the shop gig is working out, sometimes a change of pace can mike life that much better.
I would love o have a lift. :cool;
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Congrats on the new job...keep us posted on the Buick.
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Put the intake on
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Talked with the machine shop today, and I'm getting an engine tomorrow :supz: :supz:
Should be getting it in the car with the transmission this week, and hopefully light up the plugs by the end of the week. Of course, that all depends on how much work we have next week. Our turbo Eclipse project is done, and our '62 Fuelie Corvette is getting trailered back to its owner tomorrow. Unfortunately now I think I'm coming down with the flu, because I sure feel like shit right now. Perhaps an engine on the stand can cure that.
I do need to re-paint the valve covers. Apparently the guys at the machine shop didn't realize the parts washer would take the paint right off of them :rolleyes;
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Awesome. TAKE PICS
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Oh Snap!!
(http://i61.servimg.com/u/f61/14/41/27/89/03230110.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=528&u=14412789)
Just before I painted the block. Going to get the accessories bolted up, intake on, and drop it in hopefully before the end of the week. From there, it will take about 15 minutes to put the tranny in it. If all goes well, I may be able to hit the key on it by the end of next week.
Oh, I have to install my cutout also :evil; Then comes the new chip install, hotwire kit installed, and see how well those 16" Continential's hook on the street :supz:
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Got my intake, plenum, and exhaust manifolds painted and installed today, along with a few other things. Bought new motor mounts, knock sensor, waterpump, plugs, hoses, 160* t-stat, and a few other small misc. items.
Painted brackets and the dipstick tube and installed them. Ran out of time today, but it's literally ready to go in the car. Thinking I will bolt up the transmission and set it in all together.
(http://i61.servimg.com/u/f61/14/41/27/89/03250110.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=541&u=14412789)
(http://i61.servimg.com/u/f61/14/41/27/89/03250111.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=542&u=14412789)
Should be able to break the cam in next week, and maybe even take it for a drive :psix;
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if it runs half as good as it looks, you will have a winner!
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On a side note, I've really been messing with my neighbor/best friend over the whole build. He has a 00 Trans Am with a forged LS1 and a P1SC Procharger on it, putting down something in the neighborhood of 600hp. He's very competitive, and likes to be the top dog. I explained to him that I was just doing a stock rebuild with a bolt-on or two. Lately, he hasn't called me unless he wanted to know what was going on with my car. The last time I talked to him, he asked how it was coming, so I explained to him it was ready to get the accesories hung on it and set in. Jokingly, he asked me "Full stroker motor, right?" So I said "One way to find out. Bring your wrinkle walls.... And your wallet!" He got all defensive asking me if I really wanted to put money on it :D :D I've been playing along with the whole skit, and posting pic's on my Facebook that he will see. Overall, he's a pretty savvy guy when it comes to performance stuff, but he had a GN two years ago and he doesn't know all there is to know about the mighty 3.8. My buddy 1twisted6 and I have been commenting on the photo's and discussing GN1 heads, ported plenum and intake, and I even mouthed off something to the effect of 60 lb injectors and a different turbo, just to get the masses all worked up!!!
Around here, a lot of people do this "roll racing" going from 40-120. Personally, I think its stupid because they say it 'eliminates driver error'. From what I know, thats part of racing isn't it? Being able to drive your car? Then they will use the excuse about its not hard on your driveline to launch it, which sounds like a ricer excuse to me. The T/A mentioned above has a Moser rear end, subframe connectors, torque arm, etc. and will have no problem leaving the tree, but they insist on this roll racing crap because thats what they do in the big cities :jerkit;
I say, if you want a roll, take your ass to the baker. If you want to race me, we do it at the track - off the tree or off the armdrops. I raced a buddy on the street last year, came into a stop sign hot, and he got loose with slicks and skinnys and kissed a lightpole pretty hard. A good life lesson learned.
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I love seeing the progression, thanks for the pics and the stories.
And I agree - the launch is what separates good drivers, as evidenced by all the bracket racing and it's popularity.
I REALLY hope you smoke your neighbor.
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Nice!!!
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Nice!!!
Shut up and knock he 3" of dust of YOUR TR, slacker.
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The engine and transmission are in!!!
All thats left to do is:
-hook up the exhaust
-get the engine accessories bolted on
-connect the wiring harness to the engine
-repair some vacuum lines
Then it will be time to break in the cam. I am curious to know what others are running for oil? Do you use a performance oil w/zinc in it? An SM oil w/ZDDP? A performance oil with zinc and ZDDP? I was reading a topic on the other board, and the answers were pretty one-sided over ZDDP -they came from Richard Clark and Dennis Kirban. Nothing against either guy, DK has helped me on more than one occasion when I've emailed him with a question. I've also bought some products from him (and paid crazy shipping costs). But its one of those things, you can ask 10 different people and get 10 different answers. I prefer the knowledge here (Steve Wood :yawinkle: ) Is there such a thing as too much zinc in oil? I want to be safe after cam break-in, becuase this car will get moderate use.... And after what I've had to put in it, I'm going to want to step in it without worries :D
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From what I have gathered reading the threads about zinc - during cam break in, you can't really have too much (within reason). After that - a moderate amount wouldn't kill it.
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From what I have gathered reading the threads about zinc - during cam break in, you can't really have too much (within reason). After that - a moderate amount wouldn't kill it.
Right, so if you're running a performance oil that has the correct ppm of zinc, you shouldn't need an additive?
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For regular use, es. I would load up on the ZDDP for the initial break in, that's it's main purpose anyway. Most cam manufacturers break in lube is mostly ZDDP anyway.
I have never used any additives in any of my cars though.
Nver had a problem either.
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Oils were recently discussed in this thread:
http://www.ihadav8.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2238&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
In this thread, read this link.... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsletters/Gas-Diesel/November-1-2010.php
Some serious oil guys quoted there within.
here is some more info from LN Engineering that specializes in Porsches
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z1
I did not look up the paper by the GM Oil engineers debunking the zddp myth but if you google on that, you will find it.
there is an increasing awareness that most of the hoopla is vendor driven. All the articles on the subject originally were in regard to racing engines using very high valve spring pressures and crappy imported lifters....
Look around and you will be hard pressed to find significant cam failures on engines with with original gm lifters.
Someone mentioned this as being reportedly good lifters...
I see they are supposed to be hardened.
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1405J
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I was saying to only worry about the ZDDP during break in.
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I have Lucas cam break-in additive, which was recommended by my engine builder.
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most definitely use plenty of cam break in additive with zddp
no disagreement there :)
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No ZDDP additives here and no issues.
I would definitely use liberal amounts of break-in lube/additive initially.
My input on oil, long story short, I know someone that is an engineer with BP and suggests 1 quart of full synthetic with the remainder dinosaur oil. This yields ~ 94% of the advantages of running all synthetic. This has worked well in my cars for the past 10 years with no failures.
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Interesting concept.
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I purchased some Mobil 1 15w50 after doing all the research. I'm not going to use it with the initial break-in, but after I drain it out I'll be replacing the break-in oil with it. The zinc content is 1300 ppm from the info I received from exxon mobil. I have it in writing in case anything goes south.
Speaking of break-in, Everything is together and if I get time today, I'll be turning it over!!
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Make time!! :D
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Make time!! :D
X2 Plus Video of start up......... :psix;
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Its starts, it runs, and its off the hoist!! I was going to take it for a drive and break in the rings, but after having a sunny, 79 degree day last week here in WI, today we got a mix of rain, sleet, slush, and snow. The damn salt trucks were out tonight too.... Hopefully the rain we get tomorrow will wash up the roads and I can take it for a ride on Thursday. This weekend I'm going to detail the whole car and get it clean. I got my decklid back finally and I'm not real happy with the outcome, but oh well live and learn - its still way better than it was.
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You can see the nice layer of dust on the car:
(http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/14/41/27/89/04190110.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=551&u=14412789)
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Fuckin sweet.
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That is great! Rings were broken in by the time you finished the cam break in......you are good to go if there is good oil pressure, and no drips, drops, or leaks of any other nature!
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Pics of motor installed?
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I'll take some tomorrow!!
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Still haven't got any engine pics yet, but I did detail the living piss out of the car today. Light buff, polish and wax. Took me about 4 hours on the exterior alone, thank goodness the interior wasn't bad at all, just needed to vacuum it out.
(http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/14/41/27/89/04240112.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=555&u=14412789)
(http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/14/41/27/89/04240114.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=557&u=14412789)
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I suspect it looks really nice.
You really need a better camera?
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Cell phone pic's. They're never the greatest.
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Well, I took it for about a 100 mile cruise yesterday, and for the most part everything went well. The only trouble I had was sitting at a stop light in Madison, the car stalled out twice. Then it acted like it was misfiring... It smoothed right out and was fine after that. The car drove like a million bucks, and I forgot how much other interior stuff I have to fix yet, but its no big deal. I didn't get into it hard, but stepped into it a few time just to create a couple pounds of boost and hear that turbo whine. Going to put some more miles on it this weekend as-is, then next week change my FPR and install my TT chip.
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Well, the car is all dialed in. I've got about 1000 miles on it now, and I must say it runs a hell of a lot better thanks to a TT chip. I was able to make the 2.5 hour drive to Great Lakes Dragway to hold it wide open and fine tune the car.
Everything on the scanmaster reads 780-800 and 0.0 under WOT. I'm not sold that my added gauges are reading correctly, so its time to get some new ones (these ones are only a year old, but they're from Summit).
The only gripe I got with my new drivetrain is that I've got a front pump seal thats seeping. I have a warranty on the transmission, but that company is acting like a real dickface and won't cover the repair now. They first had the TCC wired wrong, and I had to have that corrected before I could drive it. Oh well, its not that bad of a job to do, just a little time consuming is all.
Other than that, I'm driving the hell out of it. And last weekend I smoked the living shit out of a 'built' honduh with it :D
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I suspect it looks really nice.
You really need a better camera?
Better camera shots. Took these at the gate to my driveway:
(http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/14/41/27/89/hpim1214.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=606&u=14412789)
(http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/14/41/27/89/hpim1215.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=607&u=14412789)
Here's some from the track:
(http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/14/41/27/89/102_1110.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=608&u=14412789)
(http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/14/41/27/89/102_1111.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=609&u=14412789)
90 Degrees and humid, sitting in a black car that the A/C needs to be recharged in with long pants and a helmet on. Not my idea of an ideal day off.
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so, does it run better than it did before...outsi de of the chip change?
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so, does it run better than it did before...outsi de of the chip change?
I couldn't hook the track. I had a pair of 26" ET Streets bolted on the back w/18 psi of air in them and I would spin all thru first, into second, and start getting traction once I was past the 1000 ft mark. The car does feel a heck of a lot stronger than before.
Track prep was pretty terrible, and the daytime temp wasn't helping matters.
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Very nice dusk photographs. Car looks good!
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sounds like progress to me!
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I went to a annual car show a couple weeks ago that's held here in Wisconsin. Its a 2 day event for the show, and they ususally get about 1200+ cars. After the show on Saturday, a bar a few miles outside of town has there annual burnout competition. A fellow TR owner I met up there was nice enough to video tape my 22 seconds of fame and post it on TB.com. Here's a video of my GN doing a burnout:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLVXKGIof_0
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MOAR TIRE SMOKE!
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Very good...
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Nice!
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Don't be this guy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2yNaDLTNOg
Pissy that they won't fix the tranny. Imagine if you were a regular joe with no resources. Snookered.
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Don't be this guy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2yNaDLTNOg
Pissy that they won't fix the tranny. Imagine if you were a regular joe with no resources. Snookered.
Whats even worse the idiots spray water on the fire !
DOH lets spread it and make it stronger.
Where was the baking soda or B extinguisher sheesh fools.
AJ___