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Topics - gordyzx9r

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16
For Sale/Trade/Want To Buy / Old parts and junk for sale
« on: October 31 2014, 12:49:25 AM »
Just in time for  :114:

It's stuff you don't need and/or don't want but will buy anyways 'cause it's car parts and it beats the crap out of buying purses and handbags and shit that your wife/GF/SO will spend your money on.  Most of it's old crap that was pulled off of my GN at one point or another as I upgraded and/or replaced shit for no reason.  But there are a few new items on the list which I've had sitting around for awhile...

So, what's in the pictures below is what there is.  If you don't see the hardware in the pic, then it's not there.  A couple of items I don't have the instructions on.

Make offers, don't forget about S&H.  I'm shipping from 36619. 

If you live in/near Pensacola, Mobile, Biloxi, Gulfport, New Orleans, Baton Rouge, Shreveport, Hattiesburg, and/or near any of those places along I10/I12 I might be able to save you S&H and deliver them in person (so long as you don't need it right away and can wait a couple weeks or so until I meander into those towns on business).

 ·         2 Bar MAP Sensor
·         Air Filter Housing w/Dirty Air Filter
·         Alternator
·         AM/FM Cassette Player (in '99 I had the tape deck repaired...I think it still works)
·         Ash Tray
·         ATR Billet Oil Filler Tube
·         ATR Black Beauty 8mm Plug Wires
·         ATR Downpipe
·         ATR PCV (2)
·         ATR Pitbull Chip
·         Cam, OEM (came out of my GN with 80K miles…not sure what you’d want it for)
·         Casper’s Ground Stretcher Kit
·         Casper's Tach Tap Mating
·         Casper's VDO Converter
·         Charcoal Canister Bracket
·         Chip
·         Crankshaft Sensor (I'm pretty sure this is one of the "recalled" ones...not sure why anyone would want it, but here it is nonetheless)
·         EGR Stuff
·         EGR Stuff (see pics)
·         Fake Wood Trim for a Limited
·         Front Cover
·         Front Cover, Machined (the one with the pump)
·         Front License Plate Bracket
·         Fuel Injectors:  As far as I know the injectors are the stock injectors
·         Fuel Pressure Regulator
·         GN Wheels (2)
·         GNS Accessory Fuse Box Kit, New
·        GNS Radiator Box In Kit, New (http://www.gnsperformance.com/#!bodyframe-g-body/c15ae)
·         Horn Ring, New
·         IAC
·         IC Fan, New
·         IC Fan, Old
·         IC Shroud
·         Intercooler, old (79K miles)
·         Jack
·         Kirban’s Body Mount Frame Washers
·         Kirban’s Brake Dust Shield (4)
·         Kirban’s Reproduction Vacuum Line Set
·         Kirban’s Valve Springs
·         Kirban’s 3 Piece Front Brace Kit, used (no mounting hardware)
·         Lower Control Arms, OEM
·         Oil Pressure Sender
·         PCV (2)
·         Plug Wires (I don't know if these are original or not, they're grey and they say "Autolite" on them)
·         Poston fuel pump wiring upgrade (I do not have the instructions)
·         Prothane Urethane Body Bushing Kit
·         Quick Spool Controller (I don't know who made this...I think I ordered it off of ebay, but never used it)
·         Radiator Cap
·         Radiator Overflow Tank
·         Ramchargers Dual Fans w/Racetronix PNP Wiring Harness Kit (never installed)
·         Rearview Mirror
·         RJC Pulley
·         Starter, Mini
·         Starter, OEM
·         Stewart Warner 10K RPM Tach (never installed, I just used it when I was troubleshootin g a problem with my 8K tack)
·         Stewart Warner Fuel Pressure Gauge
·         Stewart Warner Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge
·         Stock Front Cover
·         Stock heads Set 1 (I was told they’re leaking past the valves)
·         Stock heads Set 2 (came off of my GN w/80K miles)
·         TA-49: Rebuilt by PTE MAR 2015
·         Timing Chain and Gears, Old
·         Timing Chain Set, New
·         TPS
·         Turbo Tweak Chips (4)
·         Upper Control Arms, OEM
·         Vacuum Block
·         Vacuum Lines
·         Wastegate Vacuum Hose (2)
·         Water Temp Sender
·         Windshield Washer Fluid Tank
 

17
A/C, Heating and Cooling / Troubleshooting the AC
« on: October 29 2014, 06:16:57 PM »
So:

The AC & Heater system.

I haven't used the AC in years.  It was converted to 134 awhile ago.

I charged the system.

When I turn the AC on maximum, I hear a click sound, the RPMs alter slightly, and air blows through the vents...but it doesn't get cold.

When I set the controls to heat, heat blows out through the floor vents only, it doesn't come out the console vents.  If I set it to vent and set it to hot, I get hot air.  When I set it to defrost, it seems to be working correctly.

When you set it to heat, should it blow air out the console vents, or just the floor vents?

Where do I start?



18
For Sale/Trade/Want To Buy / For Sale: White 1986 T-Type
« on: October 28 2014, 10:59:10 PM »
I'm selling the white '86 T-Type.

$9K firm.

Hopefully I can make this look better than the mashed together post I've made on the tb.com FB or Buick Swap Meet FB page.

 I had new body bushings installed about a year ago. Both head gaskets were replaced two years ago. The car is originally from TX, so there is no rot underneath, very clean. It was a race car at one time and did have a cage. I don't know if the motor, transmission, and rear end are original. The paint is original and it does need a new paint job and some minor body work. When I bought the car, the Alky system powers up, it does test...but it's not activating under boost for some reason. If I get time, I'll try to troubleshoot it. It's either the MAP or some other kind of electrical issue. It is leaking motor oil, probably the rear main...like most Turbo Regals out there. It has Weld Wheels on it, and those are what it comes with. I don't have the original wheels. The interior is blue, and for the most part it is in really good shape. No rips, tears, or stains in the seats. There are some holes in the carpet from the cage but you can't see them unless you look for them. The normal stuff is cracked like the horn cap and the speaker deck. There is a nice dash cover.


In May 2013 I had the front suspension gone through with all new control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, sway bar links and bushings, PST polygraphite performance front end kit, as well as springs and shocks. Sometime in APR 13 I had the body bushings replaced with new rubber from Kirbans along with all new body mount bolts and radiator core support reproduction bushings. I did not have the GNX bushings installed...th ey forgot, I think I have them somewhere and if I find them I'll throw them in the trunk for you. In JUN 13 the lifters were replaced. I have quite a few receipts for everything I did, most of what the previous owner did. And I have the original ad from eBay when the original owner sold the car on eBay. I also have a copy of the GMHTP the car appeared in. Buyer will get all of that in a binder...
This is what I know the car has on it based off paperwork I have and what I see on the car:


160 Thermo
340 w/hotwire
70mm TB
Aluminum 4" mass air flow pipe
Aluminum radiator
ARP studs & billet caps
Auger upper plenum
BGC Stretch SLIC
Billet Adj FPR
Braided SS brake line kit
Comp Cams K69-248-4 Comp Cams High Energy Cam and Lifter Kit 212/212
DEKA HI 60lb Inj
Dual fans
Dynomax exhaust with Magnaflow 5"X8" aluminzed offset 3" mufflers
Embroidered trunk kit
Engine tie down
GNX Style Dash
Hotchkis bar
HRpartsNstuff Poly Motor Mount (driver side)
Hybrid Boost Controller
IAC Angle Boss 45 degree adapter plate
GNX style dash
Jeep Steering Shaft
Kirban Mystery Theft Deterrent
LPW rear end cover
LS1 Mass Air Flow Sensor & Translator
Moog springs
New fuel hangar
New fuel sender
New Walbro Fuel Pump
NPT weld in bung
Pat's 3200 Torque Converter
Pryometer probe
Razor's Alky control GN progressive kit
Rear end girdle
Regal driveshaft loop
RJC Power Plate
Roll back fenders
Scanmaster
SE Turbo 3" DP for stock w/Test Pipe
TE45A with PTE Turbo Saver
Trans temp manifold
Transcooler
Transmission Temp sender
TT chip
UMI Boxed LCA
VDO convertor tach module
VSS converter module
 
And a BOV…because, whatever.
 

19
IHADAV8 Playground / And here I am (again)...
« on: October 28 2014, 10:36:03 PM »
It's been awhile since I've posted on here (or any TR board for that matter) and kinda disappeared altogether from the internet this past year. 

Here are the quick updates:

  • I got divorced.
  • I have joint legal and physical custody of the kids, which means they live with me for 6 months and with her for 6 months.
  • I got full custody of the dog, cat, and the hamster.  The dog, being a Shih-Tzu does not do well for my man card.  For awhile there I refused to have him groomed and was telling people he was an English Sheep Dog runt.  The cat died, she was over 20 years old.  But before she went, she killed the hamster.  I had to get a new hamster to replace that one so my son wouldn't find out (this makes Hamster #3).
  • I got stuck with the house and had to lease it out because it won't sell due to a crappy market.
  • I still have my toys (GN, T-Type, Ninja, Truck, Trailers, etc.).
  • I moved to the Eastern Shores of AL (it's near Gulf Shores).
  • I have a girl friend now, and her Love Bird has moved in with me and has established a relationship with my dog.  It's very, strange.
  • I am working for Ingersoll Rand, and it's awesome.  Seriously, it's a great gig.
  • Things are starting to finally normalize for me a bit and I'm kinda making my way back into my hobbies.
  • I had to come to the realization that I have too much crap and not enough time to play with it (let alone maintain it).  So, I'm selling the white '86 T-Type.  I might sell the truck and the trailer too and buy a smaller truck or a jeep to play with.  It's a GMC 2500HD that gets 12MPG so it sits and collects dust...I only use it to tow the trailer and I only pull the trailer if I'm taking a TR somewhere (which I don't have time to go to BG or Reynolds or wherever).
  • It took forever to get the GN back...I mean seriously, forever.  The first two FUBAR attempts took over a year, and the third build took over a year.  During that time, I was seriously contemplating getting out of TRs altogether as I was getting really frustrated with the thing and people not following through or owning up to their mistakes.  Because of that I was avoiding talking about TRs and haven't kept up with the community at all.
So, what's new in the TR world?  What'd I miss?  What are the new gotta have parts?  What parts are no longer available and everyone is scrambling to horde?  Vendors?  Conspiracies?  I am so out of touch it's ridiculous...

As for the GN, this is what was done (motor and transmission):

Twisted 6 Racing/Chris Hogeland Rebuild:  4340 Forged Stroker Crank, 4340 Forged 6" H-Beam Rods, Custom Roller Camshaft, Morel Roller Lifters, Custom Front Cover w/Oil Pump & Oil Pump Pickup Tube, Billet Main Caps, Custom Forged Pistons, Custom Ring Set, T&D 1.65 Roller Rockers, Custom Springs w/Lightweight Titanium Retainers for Roller Setup, 10° Locks for Springs, COMP Cams Valves, HD Valve Seals, SS Engine Bolts, Custom Trend Performance Push Rods, Billet Timing Chain, COMP Cam Internal Balancer, ARP Main Studs, MLS Head Gaskets, Push-Loc Vacuum Fittings, 3"  SS Downpipe, SS Waste Gate Actuator, Boost Controller, JW Flex Plate, HD Flex Plate Bolts, HD Water Pump, Intake Spacer, HD PCV, COMP Cam Oil Pan Gasket, COMP Cam Intake Gasket, COMP Cam Rear Main Seal, COMP Cam Header Gaskets, & COMP Cam Valve Cover Gaskets

Transmission:  Jason White (V6Racer) Stage II 200R4

That complements the existing stuff:

• AC Delco CD Player (part # 16085434) with wiring harness adapters
• AEMC Digital EGT Monitor
• Aluminum Brake Drums
• ATR Adjustable Wastegate Actuator, Billet Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Charcoal Canister Relocation Kit, Driveshaft Loop, Heavy Duty Rear Sway Bar, Heavy Duty Transmission Pan, Polished SS MAF Pipe, Polished SS Throttle Body Inlet Pipe,  SS 1½” Headers,  SS 2½” Exhaust w/Pit Bull Mufflers, SS Crossover Pipe, SS Race Pipe, & Passenger Side Valve Cover Vent Kit
• B&M Transmission Supercooler
• BFG Goodrich 236/60 R15 Radials (front
• Bill Ragland Custom Pre-Luber with Moroso accumulator and solenoid
• Blistein Gas Shocks
• Casper’s 3 Bar Map Sensor, Audible Knock Detector, Fan Harness GN to SPAL Fan, Headlight Brightener Harness, Ground Stretcher Kit, Casper's Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade Kit, Heavy Duty Battery Positive Extender & Negative Battery Cable
• Champion Ported Cast Iron Cylinder Head, GN1 Ported OEM Aluminum Intake Manifold, GN1 IAC Valve Adapter, CNC Series Buick Power 6 Valve Cover
• Classictube SS 2 Piece Tank to Pump Line w/Inline Filter, SS Complete Brake Line, SS Emission Tube, SS Fuel Injection Feed Line Throttle Body Injection, SS Fuel Lines, SS Fuel Rail Feed, SS Fuel Rail Return Line, SS Transmission Line Kit, SS Vapor Line, & Stop Flex SS Braided Hose Kit
• Conley 22 Row Intercooler
• Cotton’s Performance Upgraded Rear Brakes
• DC Tech Chromed Turbo Shield
• Eibach Pro Kit Rate Springs
• Full Throttle Speed 160° Thermostat, Dual Air Bag Kit, High Flow Water Pump, Power Logger, & Scanmaster Scan Tool
• Gbodyparts Aluminum Bumper Supports, & 15” x 10” Grand National Wheels
• HRpartsNstuff Poly Motor Mounts
• K&N Air Filter
• Kenne Bell Rear Seat Brace
• Kirban’s Body Bolts, Engine Bay Mounted Front Brace Kit, Mechanical EFI Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit, Power Window Harness, Power Antenna Saver Wiring Kit, Brass Brake Proportioning Valve, & 22 Piece Reproduction Body Mount Bushings/Cushions Kit, GNX Body Bushings, Radiator Core Support Reproduction Bushings/Cushions Kit & Body Mount Bolts
• Lo-Jack
• Memphis Car Audio 3½” & 4”X10” Speakers
• METCO Motorsports Adjustable Upper Control Arms, Lower Control Arms, Valve Cover Breathers, Billet Thermostat Housing, & Thermostat Clamp
• Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Tires P275/50R15
• Pat’s Performance 10” Lock Up 2800 Stall Converter
• Performance Instruments 6 Gauge White Faced Stewart Warner GNX Style Instrument Cluster
• PST Polygraphite Performance Super Kit
• PTE TA52 Turbo & Turbo Saver with Wix 51049
• R-134A Air Conditioner Conversion
• Red Armstrong (Quad Air Inc.) XP Plus Fuel Pump & Ignition Wires
• Replica Plastics Bumper Fillers (Rear)
• RJC Billet Aluminum Pulleys, PCV, & Power Plate
• RK Hi Performance Billet Relay Covers
• SMC Alcohol Injection
• SPAL Dual 11” (2,780 cfm) Pull Fans w/Shroud
• SSBC Quick Change Aluminum Caliper Upgrade Kit & OE Replacement Rotors
• Steadfast Column Guard
• Steve Monroe’s 62mm Machined Throttle Body & Matching Plenum
• Stewart Warner Hood Mounted Fuel Pressure Gauge with Stewart Warner 100 PSI electric sender
• TA Performance Bearing Cap Studs & Rear End Girdle
• TR Custom Parts Aluminum High Flow 3 Row Radiator w/Oil & Transmission Cooler
• Turbo Tweak Chip & High Impedance 60lb/hr Injectors
• Turbobuicks.co m 200 Amp Alternator
• UMI Upper & Lower Front A-Arm Kit
• Viper 791 XV 2-Way Security & Remote Start

 



20
So...because of work and family, I couldn't get to the GN for a month and it sat in the garage.  Finally get some time to finish braking it in, and guess what...it won't start.  Battery is dead.  Go to jump it and holy shit, the audible knock sensor is screaming with just the key on (car not running).  Turn the car on, it starts and seems to be running fine...the audible knock sensor still blaring away but nothing on the SM.  I didn't wire in the KR sensor so I have no idea WTF wires are where so I let the damn thing eat itself and eventually it dies.  So I take the car out because I still haven't broken it in yet and don't want it to idle. 

Nice normal drive, no smoke, nothing.  Inside the temps and pressures are good.  The TPS is off at .38 and the BL is high around 138-140.

So I get it home and go to put it in the garage when I notice that it had been spitting out giant black gobs of who knows what the hell with water out of both exhaust pipes. It didn't feel like oil, it was like giant flakes of carbon or something.  So I clean that up and go to put it in the garage and notice that the INT is 160.  WTF!?!  It's never done that before. 

Pop the hood, then I notice the overflow tank looks like it's full of dirty water.  Open that up and it's brown and green.  Wait a bit, take off the radiator cap and it's bright green with what looks like a brown/yellow halo.  I drain out the overflow tank and it's full of sludge and sediment?  Probably at least half a cup of brown mud and sediment.  But it's not oil, it's almost like sand.  Bill said he always puts in GM stop leak tabs and thinks that it's maybe that, or maybe when they cleaned the block the cast iron got some rust on it and it's getting flushed out? 

Just because I'm  curious, I decide to check the FP while I'm under the hood...hook the two wires up together and fuel starts spraying out of the fuel line tap from the shaft that goes into the bolt that connects to the rail.  So I take that off, take the cap off the schrader valve and put it on the fuel rail for now.  I ordered a new Fuel Line Tap Schrader Tee 1/4" ACESS VALVE from Caspers today.  I imagine it was leaking like that the whole time I was driving it.  Could that somehow have lead to the high INT and this black soot that's coming out of the exhaust?

So, I'm about to check the plugs and the plug wires...hoping that all the plugs look normal. 

Bill is thinking I need to do a compression test.  I don't think I blew a head gasket as the temps are fine, it's not a milk shake or white...it's just freaking dirty and filled with some kind of sediment (from the stop leak tabs?).  I have a 10 gallon air tank and a compression tester kit that I have yet to take out of the package and he seems to think he can talk me through it over the phone.  I also have a set of noid lights, but not sure which one I'm supposed to use as there is a set...see picture.

Man I wish I lived near someone with some sense of mechanical skills and some knowledge about these cars...

   

21
General Buick Tech / Brass fitting sealant for alcohol tanks?
« on: August 08 2012, 10:06:38 AM »
On my original plastic float switch for my alcohol system there was some kind of sealant on the threads.  I was told I wouldn't need it since the new float switch was brass and I was hooking it up to a brass line.



Should I use some kind of sealant on the threads?  And if so, what kind?  When I went to Lowe's and asked for a brass fittings sealant they just looked at me like I was crazy.

22
General Buick Tech / Where to get this exhaust hangar piece?
« on: July 14 2012, 03:34:51 PM »
Where can I find one of these?

23
For Sale/Trade/Want To Buy / Stuff for sale
« on: July 14 2012, 03:23:19 PM »
Have these old items for sale still:

2 Bar MAP Sensor
 Air Filter
 Air Filter Housing
 AM/FM Cassette Player
 Ash Tray
 ATR Billet Oil Filler Tube
 ATR Black Beauty 8mm Plug Wires
 ATR Pitbull Chip
 Casper's Tach Tap Mating
 Casper's VDO Converter
 Charcoal Canister Bracket
 Chip
 Crankshaft Sensor (Recall)
 Downpipe Shield
 Fuel Injectors
 Fuel Pressure Regulator
 IAC
 Jack
 Kirban Brake Dust Shield (4)
 Oil Pressure Sender
 PCV
 Plug Wires
 Quick Spool Controller
 Radiator Cap
 Radiator Overflow Tank
 Rear License Plate Bracket
 Rear Speaker Hangars (Pair)
 Rearview Mirror
 Red's Volt Booster
 Starter
 Stewart Warner 10K RPM Tach
 TPS
 Vacuum Block
 Water Temp Sender
 Windshield Washer Fluid Tank

In addition to those items I also have:

TA-49:  8 years old, 3K miles, & I was told it is leaking.
Stock heads:  Off of my GN with 80K miles, I replaced them with Champion Irons.
Stock heads:  Off of my T-Type, I'm told they were leaking past the valves.
Poston fuel pump wiring upgrade, I do not have the instructions.
Stock front cover, I replaced mine with a piece by Earl Brown.
4 Turbo Tweak Chips

24
IHADAV8 Playground / My new (to me) 1986 White T-Type
« on: July 10 2012, 11:43:34 PM »
Well, I bought it and brought her home. 

Here is what I know of it so far:

1986 T-Type
ARP Studs w/ Billet Caps
Comp Cam 212/212
RJC Power Plate
TE45A
PTE Turbo Saver
60lbs. Inj.
340 w/Hotwire Kit
70mm TB
Pat's 3200 L/U
SE Turbo 3" DP
Razor's PAC Alky
TT chip
LS1 MAF
BGC SLIC
Scanmaster
Dynomax Exhaust
Boxed Arms
Moog Springs,
UMI Lowers
Hotchkis Bar

Originally a TX car with 71.5K miles on the body, no idea what's on the power train or even sure if it's what originally came with the car or not (stock motor, stock transmission and G80 rear end). 

It is clear of rot except for one spot...right rear fender along the body crease at waist level it was scratched/gouged down to the metal while being worked on at a shop.  The shop put it outside in the elements for a few weeks and it started showing corrosion.  My friend sanded it down and painted it with white primer to keep it from getting worse. 

Blue interior.  It was caged at one time, but it was removed.  Apparently it was a staged race car but the stage motor was taken out and they scraped together a motor and threw it in.  Front bumper is fiberglass but someone painted the rear chrome bumper white and the idiot at the shop scraped one pretty good so now the chrome is showing on the left rear.
 
I've repaired some of the electrical gremlins, got the speedo working, the tail lights (connector by steering column), got the fans going again (bad wiring), and some other things.

He blew both head gaskets...and in the process of getting it repaired it was discovered that the valves were leaking so he had the heads replaced with the new stock heads.  Those were just both replaced by Bill Ragland so I know they were done right.

What I know it needs:

It's not idling right, you have to keep giving it gas to keep it running for the first few minutes.  No malfunction codes.  And I haven't had time to get the numbers off the scan master, but I thought I saw .54 on the TPS.

Transmission fluid is leaking from the lines going to the radiator. 

Fuel gauge isn't working.

Brakes need to be purged and the fluid replaced, possibly a new accumulator ball. 

I think it needs a completely redone engine harness as we're constantly finding frayed/exposed wires on it. 

It's going to need a paint job, nothing crazy...just a plain jane white paint job with out the trim or emblems.  Even considering having the spoiler removed and the antenna hole filled in. 

Maybe a new carpet, but at the very least I need to look under there to see what the condition is after they removed the cage.

In the papers that came with the car I found the original ebay ad for it that my friend purchased it via, unfortunately plugging in the item # doesn't work (I guess since it's been so long). 

This is from the eBay ad:
Quote
130277859354
Starting bid:  $8K
White ext. w/black out trim and blue int.
One owner car with original title from 1986
Car has approx. 72K original miles on the body
The car was previously modified and has been returned to close to stock cond.
The car was in GMHTP and a copy of the magazine will be provided to the new owner

Fresh eng. and xmsn. < 300 miles
Engine built to stock w/exception of Billet Main Caps, ARP studded bottom end, Comp Cams 212/212 Cam
Xmsn. rebuilt with very mild shift kit and teflon seals
Fuel Inj. 42lbs.
Boxed rear upper and lower control arms with new bushings
New KYB shocks front/rear
New Moog rear springs
New Moog Sway bar end links
Wildwood manual proportioning valve to adjust the brake bias
New AC Delco fuel pump
New stock MAF pipe
New turbo hose/clamps
Stock airbox setup w/new filter
Stock exhaust
tbs.com mini starter
4 core stock style radiator with oil and xmsn cooler built in

I paid $4500...I think I got a good deal out of it. 



25
IHADAV8 Playground / Mad Max: Fury Road
« on: July 06 2012, 12:49:31 AM »
I know the truck and trailer are from Mad Max:  Fury Road which is getting filmed in Africa.  I think the monster car is too...but I could be wrong.

I loved the Max Max movies, expect for Thunderdome.

Mad Max 4: Fury Road George Miller will be directing the fourth Mad Max film, Mad Max 4: Fury Road. Shooting was originally scheduled to begin in 2011, but rare high levels of rain in the Australian shoot location made flowers bloom, which detracted from the post-apocalyptic feeling that Miller was going for.[3] Instead, shooting begins July 2012 in Namibia, Africa.[4] Tom Hardy will be Mad Max, with Charlize Theron as costar.[5] Theron's character will be missing the lower half of her left arm—her stunt double will be Annabelle Williams.[6]
  Mad Max: Furiosa Mad Max: Furiosa will be shot back to back with Mad Max 4: Fury Road.[3] "We started with Fury Road, but we then started to do a second story and a third, we’ve written the script for the second and almost finished the third."[7]
  Sixth film George Miller announced yet untitled third part of his Mad Max reboot.[8]

26
General Buick Tech / SMC Low Alcohol light comes on, tank is full
« on: May 29 2012, 05:39:10 PM »
I have one of the 1st generation SMC alcohol systems and the low alcohol light just started coming on even though the tank is full.
The alcohol system is working fine otherwise.


I just had a bunch of work done and the engine was pulled in/out a few times so I'm wondering if they might have inadvertently snagged a wire or something.


I have the original instructions but it doesn't cover the "low alcohol" warning or have a wiring diagram.




27
So...I still don't have my car back yet, we had to wait for the motor to get back.  Then there was a problem with the DMV since I retired and resettled in another state while the car was in a ship in a completely different state...

Anyways, motor is in...DMV issues are worked out, but there are some odd gremlins popping up. 

1st:  When you go to disconnect the battery, the car tries to start itself.   The key was NOT in the ignition.  He loosened up the positive battery terminal and it was just about to come off when it tried to turn over.  It doesn't always do this.  Another odd thing, I had a tbs.com mini starter and it would always kick off the audible knock sensor and sometimes it wouldn't turn over (changed it out twice), he put on his mini starter (not a tbs.com starter) and it works fine, every time without issue.  He thought he had gotten it at autozone so he got me one (which looks identical to his) but it kicks off the knock sensor too.

2nd:  Odd vibrations felt at 3K RPM.  Took out the Pat's 2800-3000 L/U stall and put in a stock converter and no change.  Changing out the drive shaft tomorrow, then the alternator and pulleys...hope it's nothing internal on the new motor. 

I'm not there...just relaying what's happening thus far and seeing if anyone has any ideas I could pass on.



28
IHADAV8 Playground / What to look for in a new laptop?
« on: February 03 2012, 08:48:55 AM »
My personal laptop took a nosedive, I've had it since '04.  I took it in and windows suffered some kind of damage that requires it to be reloaded.  I nursed that thing along for years.  Only 2 USB (the old kind) ports, I had to use a wifi card as there wasn't an internal one...been fun, but not worth going to through the hassle of reloading windows.  I had just made backups of everything a few days prior so I didn't lose any information. 

I was browsing through office depot and wal-mart...holy crap, prices seem cheap but there are also way too many choices. 

What should I look for and what should I avoid when making a decision?

29
I replaced my gauges with Stewart Warner gauges years ago...when I did that, the kit came with an oil pressure switch (sending unit?) that only had one prong for a wire as opposed to the stock ones with three prongs(?). 

Where can I find one of these one prong switches that will fit a turbo regal?

My oil pressure gauge is reading 15 PSI low, which made Bill real worried until he hooked up an under hood gauge.

30
General Buick Tech / Timing
« on: January 06 2012, 07:59:10 PM »
"I ordered a new TT Chip and the timing was set at 18-19, compared to the old chip which was at 20-21.  Only difference when I ordered the chip was the 212/212 cam and the Champion heads/intake.  Is that normal timing?  We didn't make any changes with the turbo or intercooler, still have the 23 row SMIC and the TA-49 with a 2800 stall l/u."


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