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Messages - jason

Pages: [1]
1
IHADAV8 Playground / Re: Vintage race car
« on: August 03 2014, 02:28:10 PM »
I saw you leaving that show.  That car was pretty nice.

2
Car Stereo and Electronics / Re: incorrect stock door speaker
« on: May 10 2014, 04:23:36 AM »
paper in the door says 0701

3
Car Stereo and Electronics / incorrect stock door speaker
« on: May 04 2014, 01:30:26 AM »
After listening to the stock CSII system belt out crackly garbage for the last 10 years (time flies I guess) I finally buckled down and decided to change the stock speakers.  Actually, I figured I'd replace them while I replaced my outer dew sweeps with the repros I ordered like 3 years ago...

anyhow, the stock 5.25" speakers I had in the door were p/n 16054454: A 4 Ohm speaker found in other late 80s-early 90s Buicks.  With the 10 Ohm 3.5" dash speakers wired in parallel (stock configuration), the deck was subjected to only a 2.85 Ohm load.  Bad.  I ended up keeping the stock deck, stock 5.25s and just replacing the in-dash 3.5" speakers with more modern 4 Ohm ones.  I rewired the fronts in series so the deck would only have to deal with an 8 Ohm load.  Overall, it sounds much better now.  Not amazing, but definitely acceptable.

The door panels had never been off.   I searched for the p/n on turbobuick.com and it seems it happened to at least 1 other member there.   I wonder if they just ran out of 10 Ohms on the assembly line and put in what was on hand.

4
Nice buy.  That thing is sure to turn heads.  You can never have too many wagons...

5
General Buick Tech / Re: one more over-rated question
« on: February 26 2013, 11:58:37 AM »
here's what they look like installed on a B-body.  It should give you a pretty good idea.

6
General Buick Tech / Re: one more over-rated question
« on: February 24 2013, 07:51:56 PM »
I just ordered a set of these rear triangulation braces for the TR and Roadmaster Wagon because they had a GP going on.

Maybe one day I'll get around to installing the SC&C GN Chassis brace if I can get to spend some time at home.

7
IHADAV8 Playground / Re: Optispark-Which Brand?
« on: February 23 2013, 02:38:54 PM »
The optispark on all B-bodies is vented.  Stick with GM/AC Delco/Delphi.

Currently 199$ at summit.  However I've been told that a GM rep on a conference call with Summit said they were not a GM performance part.  Apparently, even though summit's site is displaying a " GM Performance Warranty" these are NOT AC Delco parts. Who knows.

I have a friend in Montreal with an AC Delco unit with under 200km.  He installed a cam I sold him and put it on, then blew the engine.  I sold him a complete stroker that had a brand new Delco unit so he no longer needs this one.  I can put you in contact with him.

First and foremonst, ensure your opti is the culprit.  It is very often misdiagnosed.  One very common cause of misdiagnosis is the opti-coil wire. I've had more issues with leaky WP seals than the opti itself.  Most damage occurs from the WP weeping into the opti or a failed vacuum harness.  IOT replace the WP seal, make sure you get the appropriate tool.  Either the actual Kent Moore or the replica from Buffman.  It's pretty small, so if you need to borrow it, I'd be glad to mail it to you provided you mail it back.  However you can buy it new from Buffman for about $11 shipped.

When I've had the opti out for various reasons, I've done the following as preventative maintenance:

1. use an E4 reverse torx socket to take it apart;
2. Apply red loctite to the 2 small screws holding the rotor in place ;
3. reseal the opti with a constant SMALL bead permatex #2 or equivalent;
4. replace the WP seal (as required).  Felpro Timing cover gasket set TCS 45956 has all the gaskets you need.  The 2 small o-ring are for the WP driveshaft, not the opti;
5. replace opti o-rings with 2x GM p/n 10474278 Distributor drive shaft seal (a new opti should have these already installed);
6. Clean the opti electrical harness contacts with contact cleaner, then shrinkwrap the connector on the opti side; and
7. Replace the opti vent harness.  A failed/cracked vent harness will cause problems often misdiagnosed as the opti.

It's worth noting that the optispark is a very simple component and is easily serviceable.  It contains the following parts:
1. the housing and trigger wheel;
2. the optical sensor; and
3. the cap and rotor. 

Usually either the cap and rotor simply wear out or the optical sensor fails. Occasionally the trigger wheel rusts and gets coated with oil. Occasionally the two screws holding the rotor in place will get loose and/or back out.  A few people have experienced failure of the bearing in there.

If you get trouble codes and the opti interior is clean, then the sensor failed.  If you replace an opti because of a bad cap/rotor/secondary issue, save the optical sensor as it can be reused and is not cheap to buy on its own.  Caps/rotors are wear items so just buy new ones.

You can watch this http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=255280]GM optispark service video to understand how it works in excruciating detail.

I keep a working coil and ignition control module (ICM) assembly in my storage compartment along with a cheapo ratchet and a deepwell socket for the coil studs.    You can find a cheap one at a junkyard.  90% of opti failures leave you with a misfire but the car still runs.  An ICM failures leave you stranded.   Undo two bolts and three plugs and you can swap the coil/ICM assembly and keep going.  When installing a new ICM only, it's essential to ad the heatsink paste.

8
General Auto Tech / Re: Best Front End Parts?
« on: March 26 2012, 10:05:03 PM »
Don't know if it's too late, but there is a group buy going on over at the impala SS forum for complete front end rebuild kits at $219:  http://www.proforged.com/1978-96-Impala-SS-Caprice-Front-End-Kit.  This is for the kit w/ 9/16" Ball joints (which your Impala has).

If you are interested, I have a set of brand new lower control arms with the upgraded 5/8" Ball joints (discontinued, no longer available anywhere) installed.   You would need to buy a set of spindles/knuckles for 5/8" balljoints (discontinued from GM).  There are VERY FEW left , after that they are gone.  They are currently being sold (liquidated I suspect) approx $65 per side (shopgmparts.co [/color]m) which is a FRACTION of what they were going for a few years ago.  Hell I called the dealership here last month and they wanted $660 PER SIDE.

18021377    Knuckle, LH, 2nd des. for 5/8" stud
18021378    Knuckle, RH, 2nd des. for 5/8" stud

Order the front end kit with the 5/8 ball joint in that case: http://www.proforged.com/1995-96-Caprice-9C1-Front-End-Kit, you will then have a spare set of 5/8 lower balljoints.

The 5/8 Ball Joint was used mid 95-96 on the 9C1 as a reliability upgrade.  A very nice upgrade to do.  You can read about it in detail here.

The owner of Pro-Forged, Zack, is a really nice guy.  I've used the pro-forged parts and they are superior to Moog.  The "knurl" is better designed.  There used to be pictures on the forum, but they got lost a while ago.   The pro-forged parts have a 1M mile warranty.  I have used several of their front-end kits and have never had an issue.  The ones I put on the roadmaster in 05 are still going strong more than 100k km later.

If you are going to go through the trouble of changing the front control arms, then I recommend doing front springs at the same time.  Moog 7628 or Moog 80098.  If you can get a good price on GM parts, ACDelco 45H0184 or GM 88913497 PN (price is for a pair) will make the car feel like it lost 1000 lb and are a good match for the stock rear springs.  They are stock Impala SS height but have a 750 in/lb rate.   Click here to see an installed pic, and pay attention to post #31, which gives you the proper way to install the coil and p/n for an upg. isolator.  Slap on some Bilstein shocks B46-1104 front and B46-0929 rear and you're set.  I'm using them (springs AND shocks) on my b-cars and absolutely love them.

If you've never done so, replace the differential gasket with Fel-Pro RDS 55028-1.  The stock gasket did not have the proper oiling holes.

Good luck.

9
General Buick Tech / Re: Caspers Headlight Brightener
« on: March 15 2012, 10:09:02 PM »
I have a set of Bosch SBQ46 H4 housings and in all honesty the Autopal lights seem to be an exact replica.

Someone needs to start selling these "kits" for plug and play idiots like myself.

The std (non-HID) H4 kit is plug if you buy the Matrix upgraded wiring harness and pigtail.  It will prevent the switch issue Ed referred to.  The pigtail just swaps the poles on the low beam light so you're powering the correct circuit.  if you don't want to "push in the pins" yourself, you can order this pigtail, and it will truly be plug and play. 

Stock sealed beam


 H4


 
Pigtail




10
General Buick Tech / Re: Rear swaybar
« on: March 15 2012, 04:17:40 AM »
I just ordered a Hellwig. Race-mart has a great price, but they charge $25 for shipping.  I ended up having summit price-match them since they I needed something else from them and they ended up waiving S&H on the whole order.

Wouldn't the g-bodies have rear axle lateral movement w/o the OEM-style swaybar, especially with the flimsy stamped lower control arms ?  Upgraded lower control arms with stiff bushings would be a good idea with the pro-touring type bar. 

11
General Buick Tech / Re: Caspers Headlight Brightener
« on: March 15 2012, 03:51:02 AM »
Have you considered simply doing an H4 conversion ?  Very easy, very noticeable difference.  The H4 housing is glass with a much better reflector, giving a nice, sharp cutoff pattern, and the bulbs have much higher wattage.

seller rimiinc has the kit you want on ebay at a really good price.   It includes new H4 and H1 bulbs (60/55W and 100W respectively).  You'll also want an upgraded harness with relays in order to avoid burning the stock headlight switch.  You could make your own but the at $30 it just isn't worth your time.  the 2x H4s and 2xH1 on high-beam will draw more currant than the stock switch can provide.  Optionally, you can order the pigtail connector to make life a bit easier on yourself, or you could swap the 2 pins on the low-beam plug on the car.  Keep in mind you'll still need to do this even if you get the harness.


2x Autopal H4/H1 conversion = $60
Matrix 01-133 Harness = 30

Sub-Total: $90

optional:
1x pair [ul=http://www.ebay.com/itm/270321339119?_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649&item=270321339119&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT&vxp=mtr]heavy duty H4 pigtail: $6
H4 bulb upgrade: 100/55W or 100/90W (pushing it...expect to get flashed on the road, though the sharp cutoff helps): $4.  Mention it with your order

total: $100


12
General Buick Tech / Re: ATR pitbull muffler question
« on: March 06 2012, 04:55:06 PM »
Thanks for the info.  They look identical to the ones posted by 1kwiksix.  I'll give them a try.  Sean, I hope you don't mind, but I saved the photo of the Impala SS system and will post them on the ISSF.

13
General Buick Tech / Re: ATR pitbull muffler question
« on: March 05 2012, 08:24:09 PM »
They are straight through mufflers.  I was wondering if ATR used the same muffler p/n on the Impala SS and the Turbo Regal, or did they used different one to tweak the sound for each car ?  The exhaust pictured is an ATR quad muffler system I had on my Roadmaster.

14
General Buick Tech / ATR pitbull muffler question
« on: March 05 2012, 01:55:09 PM »
Finally posting after registering almost a year ago.  Finally transitioning from tbs.com.

Did ATR manufacture application-specific mufflers ? 

I have the 4 stainless mufflers from my old impala SS quad muffler system.  The ones on my Turbo Regal are the aluminized steel ones and have seen better days.  If the mufflers weren't specifically designed to cancel out a specific frequency I was considering using the 2 centre ones.  They seem to be roughly the same dimensions as the Turbo regal ones.





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