Author Topic: Brake bleeding  (Read 4818 times)

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DCEPTCN

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Brake bleeding
« on: January 16 2006, 04:00:42 PM »
Aight guys, the GN is up and running and has been taken for a few quick runs up the road and back. The brakes are all soft and spongy and need a bleedin'. Is this a total PITA? If so, I'll be paying a shop to hang my exhaust soon and could just pay 'em to do this as well, but I'd rather save the dough if it's possible.

Offline Ttype83

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Re: Brake bleeding
« Reply #1 on: January 16 2006, 04:51:40 PM »
It's hard to do with a vac pump, get the wife to help.
1. take cover off master cyc
2. have wife pump 3 times slow and easy and hold to the floor...or it'll shoot out the top if she does it to fast.
3. loosen the nut at wheel untill pedel hits floor, thighten nut start again.

It's a good idea to have something on the floor first and spary some wd40 on all the bleeder nuts.
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Offline 87natty

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Brake bleeding
« Reply #2 on: January 16 2006, 05:40:04 PM »
I can't remember how I did it last. But I think I had the key on, master cap off. I like to put the brake fluid can in the master cylinder upside down, so I don't run out of fluid. I'd have all four tires off, and then start at the right rear. Have someone pump the pedal as you open and close the nut. Another trick is to get a section of vacuum hose and put one end on the nut, and the other end in a can of brake fluid. This way you don't suck air in and you know you're good because no bubbles come up while pumping. Then move onto the left rear, then right front and then left front. Might sound complicated, but it's not.
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Offline SuperSix

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Re: Brake bleeding
« Reply #3 on: January 16 2006, 07:52:18 PM »
Go to a local parts store and get a one-man brake bleeding kit - WELL worth the money. They have a system that beelds air, but does not let air back into the system.
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Offline sun dog

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Re: Brake bleeding
« Reply #4 on: January 16 2006, 09:38:12 PM »
Yeah those one man bleeders look cool.  It replaces the fitting on the cylinder/caliper with a new fitting that has a check valve in it, so you can loosen it and pump your own pedal.
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Offline SuperSix

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Re: Brake bleeding
« Reply #5 on: January 16 2006, 09:41:48 PM »
Quote from: "sun dog @ Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:38 pm"
Yeah those one man bleeders look cool.
'87 GN, 60lb, TA49, THDP, FTP cam, T+ lots o' shit - SOLD
'07 Ford F150 Lariat 2WD, 5.4L 3v - 255k
'20 Kubota BX2380. FEL, 60" deck
'78 IH/Case 184 Lo-Boy
'99 Kawasaki Bayou 400 4x4

Offline gordyzx9r

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Re: Brake bleeding
« Reply #6 on: January 17 2006, 03:13:32 AM »
When I move back to the states I pray I move close to someone who is a hobby mechanic...and patient to teach, and it would be nice if they knew a thing or two about TRs.

Offline Be4u

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Re: Brake bleeding
« Reply #7 on: January 17 2006, 05:26:46 AM »
One thing I know FOR SURE is that you start with the rear passenger side...then rear driver. Next, front passenger then lastly front driver.

I believe Natty is right about the IGN being on. Dont you also have to pump the brakes 10 times befor you start?

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DCEPTCN

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Re: Brake bleeding
« Reply #8 on: January 17 2006, 11:44:52 AM »
I believe that I will look into one of those kits. This really sounds like a cakewalk job.....groovy .

Offline SuperSix

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Re: Brake bleeding
« Reply #9 on: January 17 2006, 07:15:13 PM »
This the one I have:

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=175


Looks like Autozone has a vacuum bleeder you can rent fro free too. Might want to check the large parts store around you.
'87 GN, 60lb, TA49, THDP, FTP cam, T+ lots o' shit - SOLD
'07 Ford F150 Lariat 2WD, 5.4L 3v - 255k
'20 Kubota BX2380. FEL, 60" deck
'78 IH/Case 184 Lo-Boy
'99 Kawasaki Bayou 400 4x4

Offline Recklessrob

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Re: Brake bleeding
« Reply #10 on: January 18 2006, 01:25:24 AM »
Do it with the ignition off. Pump the pedal 10 to 15 times
before you start to relieve pressure from the accumulator,
for those with Powermasters. For vacuum brakes, pump the
pedal untill its hard. (vacuum depleated from the booster)
Order is: Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, and Left Front
I don't recommend leaving the cover open on the master,
or the bottle method mentioned. Brake fluid is hydroscopic. (it attracts moisture)
10 minutes of exposure on a humid day is enough to ruin good  
brake fluid. Keep the bottle closed as well.
The "check valve" style bleeders are supposed to be the balls.
I haven't used them personally though.
I usually have someone pump the pedal for me. Many are willing
to do this, if bribed with beer or any tasy alcoholic beverage.
Hope this helps.
Rob

 

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