new best

[Tim Hensley]

the year has started out good 11.881 @ 113.5 but I could not figure what the popping was after I let off at the end of the pass, tell I looked and saw the two step light lit I was left foot braking and standing on the switch It sure was noisy.Not sure how to adjust it started at 2700 no retard  60ft not so good(1.881)   went to  2800 and 8* retard and helped the 60ft (1.723) I stall at 2800 felt like I was on the convertor a little hard like it was tring to drive through the brakes. Got any suggestions?

[Steve Wood]

I don't have any experience with that two step, but, could it be that your converter is too tight for that rpm?

[Charlief1]

What's the combo of parts Tim?

[Tim Hensley]

The converter is a Street Edge they clam true stall 2800 I would like to leave not so close to the stall I can only hold the 2800 at the track with the slicks on,no way with street tires. trying to build boost at the line.to get a better 60 ft.The combo is Home ported heads (cleaned the casting bumps no reshaping)5857  ball bearing bilit S cover a old Action 15 row SLIC Action cold air 206/210 roller 42.5 lb and TT 5.7 Alky chip and a Lonnie D box

[Steve Wood]

How much boost are you making when you are against the converter at the line?

It seems to me that the converter is a bit tight for what you are trying to do.  I don't know how you really know what true stall is as it depends on how much hp the car is making so that a 400 hp car will stall lower than a 600 hp, etc., but...

I would guess you could make 6-7 psi without much hassle on a set of drag radials with the turbo and the foot brake with normal chip settings...not sure on slicks.

How tall are your slicks?  28"?

At any rate, it takes hp to get a good sixty foot time...and traction to go with it.  The two step will not make it quicker if everything is right, but, it will make it consistent..or it should

Remember that I am not familiar with Bob's two step so my comments may conflict some how.

1.  Make sure the alky is not spraying at all until the boost gets up to 12 psi or so.  Too much alky too soon kills the power and spool up.

2.  Add as much timing as possible in low gear to build some heat quickly which will not only help the low rpm hp, but, it will prevent the alky from bogging the car at lower rpm.  Bogging is probably the wrong word...Slowing is better.

3.  You can also try reducing the A/F at launch to get the heat up.

It would be nice to see a data log to see what the A/F is at launch and right after.  You want to stay out of detonation, but, you don't want to be much richer than that if you want to make all the possible hp.

4.  You may need a different converter before it is over if nothing else helps.  Again, you have to make hp to get it out of the hole and you are doing pretty well.  If I am right, that turbo should spool fast but, it is really working hard to make a lot more mph on the top end because it is not much more than a TE-44 so  11.5 and maybe 118 mph might be getting close to the practical limits and better than many.  The additional rpm range provided by the cam makes it hard to keep up with airflow, I think.

How many mph did it pick up on the back half of the run?  I would not be too surprised to find that turbo is a bit small for that cam and it is running a bit flat on the top end.

[Tim Hensley]

Not 100% sure 5-6? That is why the 2 step No multi tasking skills .2200 RPM @ 0 psi 100%+
slicks  are 28-9X15 I was running 255-60X15 MTDR, It took 20 passes last year to get it to hook The Helwig bar was the ticket,The track prep in Hawaii is not so good.
Hoosier and Mickey Thompson both recommended  the slicks to be more consistent for bracket racing
And the 2 step was added to help  me be more consistent.
My Alky is set at 6 and I have not touched nothing on the PAC,no KR O2s 780 all the time ,I will order a wide band this week (AEM)
I will check the Alky turn on this week I think it is 10 psi
I had been running a TT 5.6 street chip adding 2.8*, I gained no MPH by adding more timing than that ,the O2s came down just a little 760-770s I was stuck at 111mph 12.1to 12.5 ET  1.8 to 1.9 60s one 11.93 ET with a 1.628 60FT 89.9 660ft 111 mph 1/4 (like to know how I pulled that out of the hat)
This year same tune but with a 2 step
Five pass the two best where
                   1.784 60ft 7.776 660 @89.56 mph 12.166 @ 111.19 2step 2800 no retard 5th pass
                   1.855 60ft 7.943 660 @89.19 mph 12.344 @ 110.98 2step 2700 no retard 3ed pass

I installed a  TT ALKY chip locking the convertor @85 mph
 
First pass     1.802 60ft 7.651 660 @ 92.05mph 11.92 @114.1 2step 2800 no retard no timing change to chip 6th pass of the day
Second pass 1.723 60ft 7.586 660 @ 91.68mph 11.88 @113.5 2step 2800 8* retard no timing change to chip 7th pass  of the day all passes  at 24.5 lb boost (Turbosmart E street)
I think retarding the timing 8* on the 2 step bilt some heat my O2s were 664 @000 mph no KR on the second pass  I have always been 780s at 75 mph +-2or3 mph
No data logger. Im staying in the 11.90 bracket class, I'm there just want it to run consistent ,I'm sure 11.5 is it with 42.5 injectors but my target ET was 11.90.
This car is a beast, spools fast and pulls like a small block on the street I leave it in drive to keep from hitting the limiter

[Steve Wood]

I would think 24 mph pick up in the last half would be quite good and you are at 22 so it is not laying down appreciably.

You are right, retarding the timing in the two step builds more heat.  Using more low gear timing will normally add more bottom end and get it moving better in the first part of the run.  I would think you could run something like 26 degs in low and 23-24 degs in drive, but, every car is different and you want to work up to it for sure.  Things last a lot longer if you don't push for the absolute last bit.

I am not sure what limiter you are hitting, but, I would be looking to shift around 5600 with that cam.

The wb will help, but, it sounds a bit rich to me.  People get hung up on numbers like 10.6 A/F, etc. and most cars like to be a bit leaner for milder combinations.  We start looking for that magic number instead of finding what the car likes without having detonation.

You injectors, with alky, are good for about 11.0 so they are fine for your goals.

Trying bumping the spray point ON point up to about 12 and see if that adds any consistency.

Still sounds to me as if you are fighting the converter a bit.  When that happens, my experience is that consistency goes away.

[Tim Hensley]

Thanks for the kind words .I kept hitting TTs 6000 rpm rev limiter trying to shift manually.Lonni e set the trans governor at 5500 I just put it in D and go.We have one more Test and Tune day before the point season starts.the first time I raced the car it was just to have fun ,I was hoocked and only took me a few races to get it to run 12.90 but that was not fast enough.My new goal 11.90.From the first pass to pass# 34 I have gotten there..I could not have got this far without Vortex and the other Buick Form.Im getting down to the small details,I need to get a good consistent short time.My plugs look just a tad rich and just of the line a hint of smoke about a car length out and sometimes none.A little more on the burnout.I need my leaner # a little closer to the 60ft mark around 50 mph I believe. I beleve adding a little timing in 1/2 gear will help.and Im going to pull the 2step back to 2700 and 8*retard.My 60 I hope will stay around 1.6 1.7 and pick up my 1/8 mph and let the 1/4 run out to 114mph.I can do it with this converter I just have to work around it.maybe giving up a little on the 60,and running 115-116 on the top, I would rather have the outer lane covered by the 1/8.Thanks 

[Steve Wood]

You are not the only one that has problems manually shifting!  LOL  I did not know Eric's limiter was that low..maybe it is not on the SD chips which I used.  Seems like it goes bang about 6200 on mine. 

5500 should not be losing you much, if any, with that cam.  That is conjecture on my part, but I think it is close to the end of the power band.

I need to get back to work on my Vortex site as I had started some new stuff but got distracted. 

You should not have any problems running 11.90s with a 1.8 sec short time.  I would not be surprised to find the car a bit rich.  It is hard to get rid of that puff of black when you first hit it.  Your stock o2s suggest to me that it is still a hair rich, but, trial and error will tell you better.  A little pick up on the top end will get you there.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Steve thanks for the info you have posted -- it will help me a lot.

on the BB 2 Step - it also has a built in Rev limiter mine is set at 6000 RPM -- Check yours

I believe that Erik's chips don't have a Rev limiter.

braking up could be something else  

Also if using Julio's Alky kit - i think his factory "come ON" settings are at 4 PSI. look in it - to confirm

on the BB2 step with -8* and NO CUT. I can get 10 Psi boost below 3000 soft braking it with the Alky spaying full blast. (I have other problems going on so i haven't tried turning it (Alky) down yet till i fix my other issues first.)

BTW I just started playing with my BB 2Step. So confirm everything i posted [size=78%]          [/size]

[Tim Hensley]

Yes my BB2step is set at 5800 to keep off TT 6000 rpm limiter that cuts fuel not spark
Yes ALKY dose go red about 4psi and green about 10 psi , red is turn on green is spraying (this is the setting out of the box)
This is my understanding of the tuning manual.
I checked mine is green @10 psi .I will be turning it up to 12 next week
10 psi @ 3000 your convertor is looser than mine.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Yes my BB2step is set at 5800 to keep off TT 6000 rpm limiter that cuts fuel not spark
Yes ALKY dose go red about 4psi and green about 10 psi , red is turn on green is spraying (this is the setting out of the box)
This is my understanding of the tuning manual.
I checked mine is green @10 psi .I will be turning it up to 12 next week
10 psi @ 3000 your convertor is looser than mine.

Converter - mines is a 9.5 3200 L/U. my turbo is a TE-6031 with a OE garret exhaust housing.


with out the 2step the most id hit is 4-6 PSI holding on for my life and still pushing through the brakes.
[size=78%] [/size]
I am almost sure that the TT chips DO NOT Cut Fuel -- that would mean a sure death to ALKY users.


Edit i just searched on his site (on a 2008 post) did find that he does put a rev limiter of 6200 on street chips.   


another search on TB.com and i came up with this a 2009 post

Julio and I learned years ago about rev limiters with alky:smile:. None of the TT alky chips have a rev limiter in them. If it's a street or race chip, then it will still have a limiter (unless the customer asked me to remove it).

this is the thread [size=78%]http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/303232-am-i-rev-limiter-do-i-have-issue.html[/size]


your best bet is to contact the horse him self on the Rev limiter stuff.


Alky - from my understanding when you get the first light the alky is slightly spraying  then when the light changes to the other color its spraying at a much higher rate ?? 

[Tim Hensley]

I was  getting ready to pull the plugs and check exhaust bolts for the last test and tune day (Feb 4th) and found one upper A arm bushing not looking so good and a little more looking ,found the tires felt like I had a little tow out,sure enough lower ball joint was bad.Like the big dumb --- I can be I stuck a impact on the upper A arm  bolts.Can a person purchase these?or just tack them in place.(I don't want to do that)

Iv been reading a lot of post and fill Im not so far off.Ill be double checking fuel pressure Im sore it OK adding a little timing in 1/2 and start  spraying ALKY at  12psi.
My book says my AC 43's gap is .032 I have never noticed a misfire.I have not pulled them seance I installed the ALKY chip t,My BLM did drop to 121 on the way home with the new chip on the road it had been 122-124.I  have no concern. 
 

[Steve Wood]

I always run .035" on the plugs and never have missed a beat up to 30 psi.  Many run .032" just in case because they feel maybe it will help a weak ignition fire the plug...I don't believe in such, but, I don't see any harm, either.

BLM's are close enuf.

Don't remember if I have seen anyone sell the bolts, or not...smear a little locktite on the shoulders and pull them up gently.  They will be fine even if you have to do a contortion act to hold them while tightning.  One of my cars has one that likes to turn.

Couple of years ago, I had to replace a bushing again, car sure behaved better under acceleration and hard braking after the wheel quit twitching

[Charlief1]

If you're talking about the bolts that hold the uppers in place you can still get them through GM. Had to get a set for an 80's truck a while ago and found out they were still available.