IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Dragonational on January 02 2006, 11:25:52 AM
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ok here is my Idea. in the front of the car right behind the grill i am thinking of putting a 2 1/2 foot piece of PVC pipe. I am going to block one end off and seal it. That is going to run into the modified stock air box with a K&N filter and a soild pipe back to the intake. The thing about the 2 1/2 pice of pipe in the front is i am going to cut out the whole front section of the pipe. That should give me a "forced" or "ram " air type of effect, Clear as mud or do i need to explain better?
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ok here is my Idea.
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Thanks for the info. What i am meaning is that the whole front area of the pipe would be cut out in other words i will have a large area for the motor to pull the air in. I figured that the area would be large enough to pull more air at one time. I am not too concernd about the ram air aspect i just figured this my be a new inexpensive way to keep a stock look and get some performance.
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I am up against the same proposition, and after doing a lot of reading on turbobuick 7 turbobuicks I have narrowed mine down to either a mark Hueffman big mouth or a large K & N filter mounted in the engine compartment by the charcolcannist er. If you do a search, you will probably come to the same conclusions. HTH.
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I actually consider the Big Mouth setup an upgrade to the large K&N mounted near the charcoal canister. I noticed an immediate improvement with the Big Mouth setup.
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I think some depends on ambient air temperature. I was on a thread last night that was posted somewhee on turbobuicks.co m regarding this very same issue, and there seems to be more than one train of thought. Some of the very experienced racers believe that a cooler air temperature does not help as much as it on a normally aspirated engine due to the turbo, which is where most of the temperature increase is. BTW, Top Speed, could I e-mail some questions to you regarding your experiences with Champion heads regarding smog requirements?
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This is just one of the threads on this subject that I found, but some very interesting info on it,
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36359&highlight=Big+mouth+cold+air
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BTW, Top Speed, could I e-mail some questions to you regarding your experiences with Champion heads regarding smog requirements?
Can I get the results of this investigation? :evil;
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ok, bitch, I will post an open question: I knew that I would catch shit for that. happy New Year, Natty
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ok, bitch, I will post an open question: I knew that I would catch shit for that. happy New Year, Natty
Listen Methuselah, we're both trying to hustle the same system. Let's use our powers for good. :prayer: :psix;
Happy Fucking Monday, Gary.
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Hey, works for me. What are your thoughts, natty, and did you read that thread that I highlighted. Very interesting reading from some top minds, too.
Czarnota wants $1700 exchange for heads & intake through his source, so I need to look into Champion. I will call this week and let you know what I find out. But I know that TopSpeed has some info on them. However, Czarnota's source does not screw with any of the smog, but leaves it all there. Champion likes to remove everything, and i don't know if they will leave everything if asked. Would depend on their manufacturing process and how it's done.
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I have a big K&N in the engine compartment by the canister right now. What i want to do is leave the engine compartment stock appearing but modify the box so that it is a blow through with a K&N filter. Does this make sense. Man i wish i had pictures or something i could show you so that this makes since.
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Gary, regarding the Champion heads, they make two types -iron 8445 CNC, and aluminum. I have the iron heads. The irons can be bought with the egr tower filled with lead or left as cast. I chose to leave the egr functional since I have to pass yearly emissions in Atlanta.
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Regarding the Big Mouth intake, I feel it is better for a street driven car to take in a lower ambient temp then the under hood temp. Sure, the turbo adds heat but if you start with a lower temp to begin with then the additive effect will be lower than if you had started with a higher under hood temp.
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I have a big K&N in the engine compartment by the canister right now.
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I am thinking of modifying the air box to take a 3 inch pipe. I will try a mock up to show you guys but it may take some time.
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Regarding the Big Mouth intake, I feel it is better for a street driven car to take in a lower ambient temp then the under hood temp.
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you would think that if the air is colder coming to the turbo then it would be colder going out. It might not n=make that drastic of a change but small changes are a start.
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you would think that if the air is colder coming to the turbo then it would be colder going out.
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you would think that if the air is colder coming to the turbo then it would be colder going out.
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I have a big K&N in the engine compartment by the canister right now.
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I have a big K&N in the engine compartment by the canister right now.
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There is another cold air system on the market that is pretty well respected. It is called the "Tinman" cold air system. I do not know who makes it or what it costs.
Might be worth looking into if you are going to go the cold air system. I am uncertain as to what I am going to do.
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If your gonna do anything DIY do an alcky kit...
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I copied this from that thread. I thought that this was posted by Nick Micale, but this was posted by "Woody" who, passed away about 2 weekd ago. He was a hell of a racer, and probably still is.
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#15
azgn
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: scottsdale az
Posts: 140 I have run tests with an underhood filter vs outside ram air & no filter and there wasn't enough difference in MAT temp (after the turbo, measured in the plenum) to matter....a degree or two at most per the FAST (mid 10 sec car)
99% of the heat added to the charge air is done so by the turbo and most of what is taken out is done so by the intercooler (so outside cooler air DOES matter....but only with regard to the efficiency of the IC)
these tests were done at a race track and everything was cooled to ambient (like about 90* here in AZ)....there "may" be some gains on a street car
I have a hunch all that plumbing may inhibit airflow also....I am sticking with a straight shot underhood open & big cone filter (with outside air blown on it via 4" pipe under airdam)
for those running alky, there is absolutely no reason to worry about IAT ahead of the turbo
______________ ____
Woody
Basic TSM recipe 24 lbs boost
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I'd have to agree with Woody's comments. He did say he channels fresh air from under the air dam to the filter. As long as the pipe size is big enough, your restriction shouldn't be too bad with the Big Mouth or something like it. Remember that Woody's car moved ALOT of air.
RIP Woody.
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What impressed me the most is that Steve Wood, whom I have the utmost admiration for, and Dan, (Grumpy) all agreed with him.
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I guess it's like throwing frozen cookie dough and thawed cookie dough in the oven. Either way, the oven is still pre-heated.
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I agree waste of money... just get a $40 KN
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I've got a 3" chrome MAF pipe and a 14" K&N for sale if anyone wants it.
(Tried to add a pic but it wouldn't show it.) Let me know and I can email you a pic of what it looks like.