Author Topic: Upper Control Arm Bushings  (Read 8383 times)

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Offline Charlief1

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Re: Upper Control Arm Bushings
« Reply #30 on: April 17 2012, 11:50:54 PM »
The Eibach springs are really stiff for a V6 car and I'm not a fan at all. You have to remember that the stock fronts are at 347 lbs/in and the rears are at 122 lbs/in. The front eibachs are over 600 in the front and 180 in the rear, but I may be wrong about the rears. I can't find the notes I made but I do remember the fronts are really heavy. With the shorter height your rear arms are really off and your IC is probibly out in front of the car now.
 
What rear bar do you have on it right now and have you scaled the car for front to rear bias as well as side to side?
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Upper Control Arm Bushings
« Reply #31 on: April 18 2012, 09:56:07 AM »
ATR rear, no front.

I put the Eibachs on for handling and looks and I like both...yes, the IC is in front of the car.  I had drops on the lower bars, but, it really unloaded bad at the top of first gear.  Looked like a mopar when the body lifted straight up but needed some shocks to ease the downside..  They were made for conventional springs.  Think I still have them on the other car.

Yeah, I cornered the car and adjusted the rear uppers a bit, but, I don't remember what the front/rear is...seems like the fronts were a bit over 1100 and the rears were 800+.

The real problem is the pavement and too much air pressure in the Nittos.  A too tight converter just allows too much abrupt power for the conditions.

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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

Offline Charlief1

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Re: Upper Control Arm Bushings
« Reply #32 on: April 18 2012, 12:33:42 PM »
What you're suffering from isn't to much pressure but not enough give in the rear so that you get a good weight transfer. One dirty little trick is to use an offset bushing in the ears on the axle. It's only a 1/8" offset but it brings the IC further back so you get more bite. What most guys don't realize is when you move the lowers down you may move the IC back but you also move it up at the same time. Idealy you want it below your butt closer to the actual CG of the car for the best weight transfer. It's also better to have the LCA's level with the ground.
 
Try lowering the rear pressures in the tires some and see how it effects the traction but I think you'd be better off witha  few other changes to the suspension to get more out of it Steve.
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Upper Control Arm Bushings
« Reply #33 on: April 18 2012, 01:29:54 PM »
I don't want to lower the pressure...I run 24 psi with Nittos because they handle well with that...they hook a lot better down around 18.

Depends upon which school of thought you belong to with regard to the IC location in the vertical sense.  I am more the Dave Morgan school and like to have it a bit above the neutral line....

In the end, it is really immaterial as this is a street car and I normally don't go from a stop and I prefer the car to handle well at speed in turns.  When I broke the previous converter and went back to my multiclutch, things got worse because it is about 400 rpm too tight for the turbo.  That causes the boost to suddenly hit hard just as the car is beginning to unload toward the top of first so it is a question of timing.

I have the Performance Trends software and have computed many different combinations.  My gut reaction without any computations is that an 1/8" will not do much with a lowered car.  It's more an esoteric exercise anyway, in this case.  I have seen G Bodies that had the IC behind the car and they still would hook pretty well.  :D

Steve Wood

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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

 

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