Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - earlbrown

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4
16
IHADAV8 Playground / Free custom Mobil1 tag bracket
« on: February 08 2017, 01:06:19 AM »
Found this the other day while playing on AAVs website.  Gonna get one for an SHO that says ''Cli-Taurus"

 The bad part is a Wal*Mart receipt won't work.

https://apfco.net/secure/P3729W/LicensePlate

17
General Buick Tech / Is a TT6.1 worth the extra money of the 5.7?
« on: December 28 2016, 10:04:02 PM »
I need to get a chip bought for my 4.2L before the end of the year since thre's going to be a large price increase on Jan 1.

I already have the scanmaster3.0, power logger, PLX W/B, and a translator.


Should I just stick with the 5.7 or should I spend the extra cheeze for the W/B tracking?


19
I wasn't going to post this one but it was already on my flashdrive so screw it :)

(note: I inverted my wideband graph so rich is higher)

While running lean right around stoic, the narrow band will just stop talking.  I would imagine the ECM wouldn't do anything (as evidenced by the wideband not getting richer if the BLMs are locked...  But in this case, I have an extender and the ECM can read past 255 now.  When I enriched  the mixture the NB stopped fruiting out and the line was closer to a match. 


On the second one I'm showing 8.1 degrees of knock retard...   but my timing went from 30 to 30.4 degrees.   Where's the retard?  It would make sense to me to see an inverse of my knock curve on the timing. Actually it would make sense to see MORE of an inverse curve as it's harder to cure knock than it his to avoid it.

20
Unfortunately, my boost logging doesn't work since I removed my boost/tach module to get it rebuilt....    and I haven't hooked up my FP transducer yet...

My engine is a 4.2L with a little over 9:1 static, max ported 8445s with O/S valves, 215/220 roller, GT3255, and an extender chip on 93 with 19/17*.

PL is with a PLX wideband.

First pass is tuner style with the wastegate backed off as far as it will go. (about 5ps when I'm forced to let off, I think)  What's odd is that .7* is LOUD AS HOLY HELL. It literally sounds like drunk gnomes with hammers and marbles under my hood. I suspected the knock circuit wasn't reading right but it works fine...

#2.   So I popped the wastgate arm loose.  It makes right at 2PSI at the top of second  The knock readings not parrallel what I expect to see and hear with that amount of knock.  No freaking idea why PL shows .7 when you can hare it in the next county.

#3.   I upped the BLM adjust to 13 (of 18) to see what putting the BLMs closer to 128 would do. (since high compression likes more fuel it makes seance. ESP with my extra cubes and flow)

#4  Seemed to be the right direction, so I set the BLM adjust to 18.

#5 Made two changes at once. Maxed out the LoGear fuel and got rid of the default +2* 1st/2nd ignition advance.  It was SOGGY as hell driving to my turnaround spot then flooring it.

#6 Same as above. but much less soggy than #5. Still soggy and still knocking at @2PSI. Honestly, I don't think I'm knocking from cylinder pressure. I think I increased my burn rate and I'm just lighting the spark too soon.


I spend a lot of time with my piston engineer when I was designing my pistons. He mentioned that he like his inverted domes to require as little advance as possible. I agreed.   From the passes I made today it would appear that I've just increased the efficiency of my engine 'too much' and tuned myself right out of my chips' window. 

What I do know.  It started out lean as hell and adding fuel brought my numbers closer to where it's a good starting point to find 'the magic number'.  Pulling timing <i>seemed</i> to help, but without a way to pull it until I see a difference, that's speculation.

Thots?

I'm am surprised that I can knock the 295's loose without boost. That's one stout N/A V6 with a cork in the exhaust  :)

21
General Buick Tech / for those that don't go on the other board....
« on: March 30 2016, 05:13:47 PM »
I finally got everything sorted out with logistics and pricing with my piston manufacturers.
 
 What I've done is create a better Buick Street/Strip piston that's every been available.  After going through heroics to make my 4.1 have 8.99:1 just to find out what total shit hpyers are, I ended up creating something cool.
 
 6 pistons with locks and JE pins are $550.   (they can be sold in any number if you want a 7th for the shelf, or burn just one and need a replacement).
 
 [​IMG
These are lightweight box forgings that have been machined to work in virtually ANY Buick V6 build. With a 22CC inverted dome it's possible to achieve decent compression with any bore size from 3.801" all the way up to the biggest 4.1 build.  My piston engineer ended up having experience with Buick V6 NECKCAR and Kenny Duttweilers drag stuf back when he was head enginer with JE. Needless to say I let him setup the exact shape of the inverted dome's walls.  He and I were on the same page as far as capturing the flame kernel for maximum efficiency and minimizing the amount of ignition advance as much as possible.  I'm pretty happy with how these came out.
There's a few people already running them for a while now and It's what I have in my GN as well.

The really cool thing about these is how easy they are to modify. I can change the bore, ring pack and compression height with no change in price. The pins can be set up floating or press fit so they'll work with stock or aftermarket rods.  For guys running BBC rods or SBC rods, I can put those pins in with a slight bump in price and make it a 'bolt it' job.
That also works good for guys that are just now building virgin engines.  Rather than pay to bore it out, I can make them 2 or 5 over then all it takes is a hone job and a set of file fit rings.  Plus I can move the piston up the bore instead of decking the block and making it thinner.  The savings on the bore and deck job will pretty much pay for the pistons.

These things are truly what the Buick community needed many many years ago. I wish they'd been available before I decked the hell out of my block, Then had to machine my intake...    TWICE!     These would have saved me a lot of trouble when I learned the hard way that 4.1 decks (and older 3.8's) are taller than 109 3.8s.I finally got everything sorted out with logistics and pricing with my piston manufacturers.
What I've done is create a better Buick Street/Strip piston that's every been available.  After going through heroics to make my 4.1 have 8.99:1 just to find out what total shit hpyers are, I ended up creating something cool.
6 pistons with locks and JE pins are $550.   (they can be sold in any number if you want a 7th for the shelf, or burn just one and need a replacement).

These are lightweight box forgings that have been machined to work in virtually ANY Buick V6 build. With a 22CC inverted dome it's possible to achieve decent compression with any bore size from 3.801" all the way up to the biggest 4.1 build.  My piston engineer ended up having experience with Buick V6 NECKCAR and Kenny Duttweilers drag stuf back when he was head enginer with JE. Needless to say I let him setup the exact shape of the inverted dome's walls.  He and I were on the same page as far as capturing the flame kernel for maximum efficiency and minimizing the amount of ignition advance as much as possible.  I'm pretty happy with how these came out.
There's a few people already running them for a while now and It's what I have in my GN as well.

The really cool thing about these is how easy they are to modify. I can change the bore, ring pack and compression height with no change in price. The pins can be set up floating or press fit so they'll work with stock or aftermarket rods.  For guys running BBC rods or SBC rods, I can put those pins in with a slight bump in price and make it a 'bolt it' job.
That also works good for guys that are just now building virgin engines.  Rather than pay to bore it out, I can make them 2 or 5 over then all it takes is a hone job and a set of file fit rings.  Plus I can move the piston up the bore instead of decking the block and making it thinner.  The savings on the bore and deck job will pretty much pay for the pistons.

These things are truly what the Buick community needed many many years ago. I wish they'd been available before I decked the hell out of my block, Then had to machine my intake...    TWICE!     These would have saved me a lot of trouble when I learned the hard way that 4.1 decks (and older 3.8's) are taller than 109 3.8s.

22
IHADAV8 Playground / Who's GN is this?
« on: April 08 2015, 01:49:49 AM »
http://streamonline.me/top-gear-us-season-5-episode-3/



Found an article titled ''top 10 list of websites dedicated to lists of movies''...    So I clicked it to see where www.iafd.com ranked.  I knew the article was crap when it wasn't listed.


Turns out they had one that was about cars in movies...   http://www.imcdb.org   I had no idea that a GN was in Moonlighting.  Turns out, I missed it when I went through the series a couple months ago.

23
IHADAV8 Playground / I hate when I get beat to market....
« on: February 27 2015, 02:36:16 AM »
Threre are so many places that a linear electric generator could provide ''free'' power.   I'm still amazed cell phones and MP3 players don't have a little weight in them to reclaim some motion energy and put it back in the battery.

http://gizmodo.com/finally-a-wearable-that-lets-you-charge-your-gadgets-b-1688232359

24
General Buick Tech / My forged pistons...
« on: October 21 2014, 05:13:04 PM »
A few people have been asking me about these things and I just haven't had time to handle the avalanche of overlysimplist ic questions that will come from announcing them on TB....

For those curious these are the slugs I've been messing with the last couple years.  They were designed by me with the help of the former lead engineer at JE (who's currently working for the former owner of JE).
 What I wanted was the ability to be flexible with the dimensions as far as bore size, ring size, pin size, and most importantly (to me) compression height.
  The reverse dome is the only thing that' really set in stone. At 22cc's it's smaller than normal for a little extra pop and the shape has much more thought into it than just a relief for cylinder pressure.  With our math we're expecting them to require 2 to 3 less degrees of ignition advance to achieve the same power. I was pretty happy with the outcome of how it came out.

The bore size can range from 2.500" all the way to 5.500", needless to say that will cover every Buick V6 made. The only limiting factor is ring selection. Have to be careful not to make a slug that has no rings! lol.  I can make the compression height whatever I want and stick whatever pin in it, I want. Perfect for guys wanting to save a trashed forged crank by using long BBC rods.

It looks like they're going to be $500 for a set of forged 4.1's with pins, locks, and moly rings, or. and $550 for 3.8's with pins locks and rings.   I was hoping to get the set into the $400's but aluminum has just been climbing too much the last few years.  I've never really prices a bunch of different pistons before but I think that pricing is pretty good.  Obviously they're cheaper without rings.

Anywhoo, that's one of the things I've been up to between naked chicks, building Ugly Drum Smokers, and drinking beers.

25
IHADAV8 Playground / any electrictions here?
« on: October 19 2013, 01:07:06 AM »
I'm looking to replace my leaky conventional water heater with a tankless....

While doing the research on current consumption .vs temperature rise .vs GPH I noticed I have a 30A breaker on my current unit.  Whats odd is that it has two 4500W elements.  At 246 volts I should be pulling more than 36 amps.

Are my heating elements prison raping the laws of thermodynamics, or does my beaker just not feel like conforming to society's wishes?

26
For Sale/Trade/Want To Buy / ported polished turbo inlet bell
« on: July 04 2013, 01:13:42 AM »
Comes with a block off plug installed. $20 shipped in lower 48. $25 with the Stainless Steel bolts and washers.



paypal address is earlbrown@mindspring.com

27
For Sale/Trade/Want To Buy / rod balancing fixture
« on: July 04 2013, 01:10:55 AM »
This setup is just as nice as when I opened it out of the box. It even comes with the original instructions.

$100 Shipping will be $8 in the lower 48.

This one is close to the one Jeg's sells for $168 +ship except mine has padded feet and a longer swingarm.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66844/10002/-1

28
Brand new Speed Pro L2481F forged pistons and Sealed Power moly rings in .030" oversize.

They've been balanced and all weight exactly 734.03grams. (yes I balance parts to a 1/100th of a gram :) )

The pistons are wrapped back up and placed back in the factory box. The rings have never been opened and sealed in the box.     $350 plus shipping.   PM with zip code for a shipping quote.


29
For Sale/Trade/Want To Buy / LS1 & LT1 MAFs - tested and working
« on: June 26 2013, 04:32:15 PM »



3" LT1 $50 shipped and 3 1/2" LS1 $80 shipped lower 48

paypal is earlbrown@mindspring.com  PM for snail mail address if you prefer sending gold bars (or money orders)

add $5 for super cool SS allen bolts

30

Timing cover $100 (timing cover not included)



Complete intake manifold - 69pc $80



Valve Covers $14


Turbo Shield $10


THDP DP 8pc $9


LS1 & LT1 MAFs $5


Turbo Bell $5   (bell not included)


Stock and SLIC intercooler-8pc $9


Crank balancer pulley/intercooler fan 12pc $13


20bolt oilpan 40pc $20


14bolt pan 28pc $16


200 trans pan $19


10bolt rear diff 20pc $15


paypal address is earlbrown@mindspring.com  If you like checks, MO's, gold bars or cash, PM for my snailmail addy....

Shipping is $8 period, no matter the weight.

 I can keep the costs low by taking advantage of USPS's flat rate boxes. (if all you want is something small like a 'onesie-twosie' let me know and I'll see if I can mail them cheaper)


Boltkits Photos by earlbrown | Photobucket

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal