IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: GavinHunyady on January 02 2015, 10:26:04 AM
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I figure I'll start a thread here to go with my build this winter.
I've been publishing some youtube videos to go along with it, but here is the back story and the plan.
I bought the car in 97 when I graduated high school. it had 60k on it, and I drove it as my daily for about a year. it was in great shape, all stock, but it burned up a trans that year. I got the trans rebuilt by a local very reputable builder, and put a maxeffort chip in it with all the supporting mods. Fast forward 10years, the car sits in my garage 90% of the time, due to a handful of chronic issues, leaks, powersteering, brakes, dead A/C etc.
I, on the other hand, am considerable better than I was in college when it comes to fabricating and building cars... and now I have a real place to work on cars and all the equipment I need. (I've raced oval track cars for the last 12years, built a lot of different cars and engines). So now I'm setting out to rebuild the car right: freshen up the top end of the engine, ditch the powermaster, put a real turbo and converter in, update the tune, clean up all the chronic issues, put a nice exhaust kit on it, not some homemade janky crap.
So far, I've torn the engine down to the short block, and built it back up:
freshened heads, blended the bowls, valve job, .005" deck face
stock cam was KO'd, replaced with a roller from Full Throttle, harland sharp 1.55 rockers
rebuilt the front cover, hand surfaced the oil pump plate, replaced with stock height gears
did the RJC bullet proof headgaskets, port matched the intake, and put it all back together
mods all together are:
RJC power plate, 62mm ported TB, alkycontrol, 340pump, 16930 converter, 3" terry houston DP, 6265 turbo
Here's the VLOG on youtube, subscribe for updates!
#1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q163TqoKAqc&index=5&list=UUmtNb4VMnSXVbauJ4Dfn96w (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q163TqoKAqc&index=5&list=UUmtNb4VMnSXVbauJ4Dfn96w)
#2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAAKmJjRK_A&list=UUmtNb4VMnSXVbauJ4Dfn96w&index=3 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAAKmJjRK_A&list=UUmtNb4VMnSXVbauJ4Dfn96w&index=3)
#3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uD7LCxW85Y4&index=1&list=UUmtNb4VMnSXVbauJ4Dfn96w (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uD7LCxW85Y4&index=1&list=UUmtNb4VMnSXVbauJ4Dfn96w)
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Very cool...and thanks so much for sharing!. The 6265 is a legitimate 9 second capable turbo...as Bison turned the trick with it a couple months back. I run the JB 6262 with the 16930 convertor...an d the time is in my sig. Wish I had your shop. Keep the vids comin'!
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Thanks for sharing. Should be nice working on the brake swap with the engine out. Only pain I've read about the hydro boost swap is running the lines. Keep it coming!
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Video #4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1I_9854y_o&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1I_9854y_o&feature=youtu.be)
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Lookin' good!
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#5 today... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeoJ9ymXdlU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeoJ9ymXdlU)
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If you're gonna go with a FMIC...then RJC or nothing. Same goes for the exhaust and DP...RJC...or nothing. Stay away from the Chinese junk...cuz that's all it is.
There's a rumour there's some idiot north of the border that's gone 6.72 at 104.67 with a 6262 with a 16930, a TT 5.7 chip and reworked 8445 heads. :) The 6265 makes another 30 HP all in over the 6262.
Any chance you could shoot a video of the parts you have for the hydroboost...a nd the install? Thanks for the vids so far...the car is coming along great. :cheers:
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I agree, I would only consider an RJC or an older PTE FMIC. I also intend to stay away from the imported IC cores and exhausts. I am sold on RJC. I'm struggling to find a reason to spend an extra $100 for a PTE SLIC.
I already have a Terry Houston DP, its ceramic coated and has been good for me. It will go back in, likely with the 3" RJC stock location exhaust.
Before I put the engine back in, does anyone know where a guy can get the trans cooler hard lines? Mine were pinched and I replaced with a pair of -6 hoses, but I'd like to bring the hard lines back into the game since they fit so much better.
Yeah I think I'm ready to take the next step... I can do a video of the hydro boost install, I've already got the powermaster out. It might be a while in order to include the power steering pump installation.. . but thats a good point since this is a popular swap these days. I've been considering using the cadillac master cylinder since its shorter and will clear a larger P/S reservoir.... which allows you to run two returns to the reservoir instead of T-fittings (less joints=less leaks)
You guys feel free to point out any other videos I should do based on this stage of the game, and I'll try to make it happen. I'm considering that NVU dash from the other board... I think that would be a good one. I really want to clean up the interior, I'm sick of boxes and gizmos all over the place.
Here's some install videos I'll consider:
RJC 3" exhaust
HR rear sway bar
hydroboost
headliner
MAYBE NVU dash/interior rehab
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I would check with classic tube and inline tube for the lines, they must have made some up by now.
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I've run the PTE SLIC on my white TR. About the only complaint I have with it is that on one side you use the stock bracket and the other side has an aluminum bracket. It shakes a bit hanging out there. Also, you'll have to cut there up pipe to get it sit down enough to clear the hood insulation.
When it's time, I'm going with a front mount from RJC for the Gray Ghost. Every once in a while, one will pop up for sale, usually when you don't have the money or if you do have the money, someone beats you to it.
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I would check with classic tube and inline tube for the lines, they must have made some up by now.
Good call, inline tube is close enough that I can try to shoot over there at lunch, they have them for $50 and classic tube has them for $69.
I've run the PTE SLIC on my white TR. About the only complaint I have with it is that on one side you use the stock bracket and the other side has an aluminum bracket. It shakes a bit hanging out there. Also, you'll have to cut there up pipe to get it sit down enough to clear the hood insulation.
When it's time, I'm going with a front mount from RJC for the Gray Ghost. Every once in a while, one will pop up for sale, usually when you don't have the money or if you do have the money, someone beats you to it.
Exactly dude, I catch a FMIC every now and then, but they all sold within 20min (seems like). Since thats the first knock I've heard on the PTE SLIC... I think I'm sold on the FM.
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Finally watched #5.
As for exhaust, I had the hooker set on the white TR when I first bought it. Kind of quite but had a drone that was annoying between 1800-2100 RPM. Researched a while and settled on RJC 3" single to a stock location muffler with dual outlets. The inlet to the muffler is straight thru and exits on the driver side. Fiberglass baffling, as far as could tell, for the exit to the passenger side. Nice sound. Does have a drone but not near as annoying as the hooker set up. Single pipe to after the axle and the rest of the weight is all in the rear, where you need it.
Just my two cents
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Yeah that is the system that I'm planning on, I'm trying to really get rid of the drone.
I had a cobbled up 3" single that dumped at the axle. It was part of an ATR single shot and had an ATR 3" muffler, and it droned like crazy. Fun when I was younger, but now I couldnt handle driving the car for more than 30minutes.
So an idea that I had was to weld a flange to the ATR muffler and use it to replace the "test pipe" basically adding a muffler to the system. It might help, it might make it worse. It will probably add some backpressure, but probably not enough for me to care since I think we'll very easily meet our targets for the car's performance. After its all together I might try to buy a used test pipe and do a side by side comparison... now that I think about it, it may make sense to buy the test pipe first to build my muffler-test-pipe to the right dimensions.
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I've read a few threads on the other site about guys putting a few mufflers in line. Heck, one thread mentioned a guy that had put three mufflers in line. Allegedly it solved the drone issue. Who knows... I would be interested to see if you could find a muffler of the right dimensions to fit in place of the test pipe and still be able to slide a test pipe in and out of it as well as kill the drone
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I've heard that the test pipe is about 13" long, which means the old ATR pitbull muffler SHOULD fit, it would probably require a captured bolt to be in the flange before its welded to the muffler. I already have the flange from RJC to try it... I'll fab it up after I get the exhaust purchased and hung. it probably wont be "track-side removable" but I doubt I'll care. (as Scoobum keeps reminding me, the car will be plenty fast)
:cheers:
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I'm only up to #3 but my question would be:
Does Barb? have a passport? How much to come up here and clean engine parts? A keeper!
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I'm only up to #3 but my question would be:
Does Barb? have a passport? How much to come up here and clean engine parts? A keeper!
Or down to Texas! Will provide room and board!
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Gavin...that THDP will fit like a glove. I'm fairly certain that puck won't control boost with that 6265. Jason sells a biggie puck. Call and ask him if it'll fit that THDP. You may have to break out the die grinder and clearance the inside of the pipe so it swings freely. On a sidenote, I heard Jason was in an ATV accident. If that's true...he may not be back at the shop just yet.
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I'm only up to #3 but my question would be:
Does Barb? have a passport? How much to come up here and clean engine parts? A keeper!
Or down to Texas! Will provide room and board!
Can't have her, she's also my crew chief, lawyer, and shooting partner (she runs an AK like it owes her money).
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1240648_585261421538664_1096496239_n.jpg?oh=078da17031ba974a72c88a548d6c3e37&oe=555FB240&__gda__=1431599721_3741fe5ceb14d4a5ad6b3761a712fecc)
(https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/269069_10150215971821331_3672379_n.jpg?oh=390eff6231ecd94a7925c63a873f5c99&oe=55246280)
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Gavin...that THDP will fit like a glove. I'm fairly certain that puck won't control boost with that 6265. Jason sells a biggie puck. Call and ask him if it'll fit that THDP. You may have to break out the die grinder and clearance the inside of the pipe so it swings freely. On a sidenote, I heard Jason was in an ATV accident. If that's true...he may not be back at the shop just yet.
Yeah I had a discussion about that with Brian, I really dont want to use an external gate. I thought this THDP had a larger than stock puck, but I dont know what it will take either. (I imagine now that I have everything apart I can measure it... not sure why I hadnt thought of that yet.)
I also heard about jason being hurt, hopefully he's ok.
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here's this week's video. We made a lot of progress, I also started shooting a video for the hydroboost installation, but I'll put that all together in 1 video.
I need some help with the powersteering pump, see the end of the video... let me know if you have any feedback or a correct part number. @ 9:15
http://youtu.be/DdBYmSWSvkE (http://youtu.be/DdBYmSWSvkE)
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Didn't watch the vid. What are you having probs with? Have you looked at my swap thread?
http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=4228.0 (http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=4228.0)
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nothing to do with the conversion, just replacing the PS pump (old one groaned really bad all the time) and the inlet tube is very different.
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Nice job on putting the gusset in! Can you swap the tube off the old pump?
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that tube is pressed in, not sure I could get it to seal if I were able to get it out. I'm just wondering what other (original) stock ones look like. Most replies seem to state that it is the correct one.
I wasnt super proud with the way the gusset turned out, but I figure the show must go on.
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I see.
Try this thread for the parts others are trying.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?threads/422809/ (http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?threads/422809/)
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I'll take a pic of the steering pump when I get home. I have one sitting on the shelf that came off the barn motor
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I see.
Try this thread for the parts others are trying.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?threads/422809/ (http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?threads/422809/)
:icon_lol:
thats my thread on the other board, they seem to be saying the replacement pump I have is correct.
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Most don't realize how important it is to have ZERO pre-turbo leaks. You've got the bases covered. Nice work. It'll spool like a mad whore. :rock:
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I'm still going to face the exhaust manifolds with a flat block and some wet sanding to make sure they are flat and smooth.
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Pump off the barn motor is exactly like your replacement pump. Has a hose with clamp making the connection
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thank you, it looks like the rubber hose to your pump sort of takes that same shape. I wonder if there was a design change in there somewhere to save money on that pump. (I'm sure you can package more pumps/pallet with the short inlet tube, even if it was just a short trip from Saginaw to Flint)
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You might look at highway stars or kirbans for the hose. Looks molded to make the routing clear everything. I've never had to buy one, so haven't looked for one.
I find it amazing to see how businesses come up with ways to cut costs. Back when I was turning dials, I came up with a way to not make a tooling change when running orange juice crushers. Shaved about 6 seconds off the manufacturing time and thus increased production. You would've thought I had saved the company with the way management reacted
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thank you, it looks like the rubber hose to your pump sort of takes that same shape. I wonder if there was a design change in there somewhere to save money on that pump. (I'm sure you can package more pumps/pallet with the short inlet tube, even if it was just a short trip from Saginaw to Flint)
I wonder if its a post production change and in its present form fits another model as well.
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I would guess it fits a few models... I'm feeling google lazy or I would check, but I'm a bit surprised how many people have not seen the one like came off my car.
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I picked up my new trans cooler lines from inline tube tonight, does anyone have pics of how they fit in the frame? I cant figure it out just by looking at them.
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Do these help?
http://perfauto.tripod.com/data/4-096.pdf (http://perfauto.tripod.com/data/4-096.pdf)
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Do these help?
http://perfauto.tripod.com/data/4-096.pdf (http://perfauto.tripod.com/data/4-096.pdf)
you da man!
Although my radiator doesnt have those fittings in it, so thats a small concern. I was on the fence about switching the radiator anyhow.
I dont have any of the unions or the clips/brackets. but I guess that wont be the end of the world to find those now that I have that drawing and part number.
thanks again!
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Hey Gavin!
I went with these silicone PS hoses from GBody Parts last year while replacing my PS pump & reservoir at the same time.
Works great & fits like a glove.
"Just sayin"
http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_22_44_50&products_id=1274&osCsid=9d069e415d04348ec07bfbe00a9f5402 (http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_22_44_50&products_id=1274&osCsid=9d069e415d04348ec07bfbe00a9f5402)
http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_22_44_50&products_id=1271&osCsid=9d069e415d04348ec07bfbe00a9f5402 (http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_22_44_50&products_id=1271&osCsid=9d069e415d04348ec07bfbe00a9f5402)
Highway Stars also offers the hoses in the more traditional rubber material:
http://highwaystars.net/brakes-steering-suspension/ (http://highwaystars.net/brakes-steering-suspension/)
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hey check that out, there is a different shape for the 86 hose... that explains that. I might run an aftermarket reservoir, so bulk hose will probably be ok, but thats a really good find.
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Video #7 http://youtu.be/EVY8goo9VAM (http://youtu.be/EVY8goo9VAM)
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video #8
Page Not Found - Hivelocity Hosting (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxbxvzn7HFY#)
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Disconnect the green plug that's just behind and below the alternator. One is a tach signal, and the other one goes to the fuel pump to facilitate draining the tank via the fuel rail
Plug and wire for A/C compressor is routed behind and then between the bracket to connect to the compressor. Let me know if a pic would help
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Disconnect the green plug that's just behind and below the alternator. One is a tach signal, and the other one goes to the fuel pump to facilitate draining the tank via the fuel rail
Plug and wire for A/C compressor is routed behind and then between the bracket to connect to the compressor. Let me know if a pic would help
I knew that didnt look right, I'll have to tuck that green one back into the harness. I have a jumper somewhere with a clip on one end that I made to purge the fuel tank by connecting that wire to the alternator, I need to find that.
That makes sense why I didnt mark those 2 because they werent connected to anything. Just goes to show you cant remember everything after letting a car sit for several years.
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Gavin...any issues with the emissions idiots there with the breathers in the rockers and the EGR plate? That's $350 x 3 up here for fines. Each emission infraction is $350 bucks. I'm not joking.
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no inspection in MI, land of the free.
for example, I ran the car with an open DP for a year... so I'm cleaning soot off the floorboards this week.
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We have these Ministry Of The Environment assholes out cruising around in gov't vehicles pulling cars over they THINK may have been tampered with from an emissions standpoint. I've had a couple of run ins with them...and they have a higher than thou attitude.
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BTW Oshawa needs to rename their OHL team so Flint can have the Generals back. (I guess at least you guys are also a GM town)
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We have these Ministry Of The Environment assholes out cruising around in gov't vehicles pulling cars over they THINK may have been tampered with from an emissions standpoint. I've had a couple of run ins with them...and they have a higher than thou attitude.
I like to ask them "Well Officer, what evidence do you have that leads you to believe you have probable cause to search my vehicle?" Makes em think at least. Might not work in your "jurisdiction".
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a little fabircation in this week's video. I'll probably take next week off as the parts come in for the exhaust and intercooler.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEKLyJgmays (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEKLyJgmays)
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I'm getting ready to do the headliner on the GN, I have a guy that is a reputable interior guy, I was going to have him re-foam my driver's seat. Anyhow, I'm debating, do I have him recover my stock headliner OR is it worthwhile to get one of the highway stars headliners?
I think the cost will be a wash... so what is everyone's experience of the quality and appearance of the higways stars part?
BTW - I got my new RJC DP and intercooler so I'll at the very least have some video reviews coming up, as well as the hydroboost installation, I just need to find time to edit it and upload. The 3" exhaust was backordered, so I wont get that for a few more weeks.
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Dan and I have an interior specialist that we farm that stuff out too. I had him redo the headliner and visors on my old POS. Not exactly the same material...but he did a beautiful job. Depends how picky you are on the exact fabric.
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I refoamed my front seats in the white T. Bought the foam and covers from PUI and did it myself. I am not so sure the foam was correct for our cars though. It sure did increase the seating height and not knowing what it was like to sit in a new GN bucket seat, I wouldn't know if my foam was just that worn or the new foam was just a bit too thick. It wasn't easy stretching those covers over the foam and luckily I was up to date on my tetanus as more than once I put a few holes in a finger with those hog rings
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Hey, look at that, I was your 100th subscriber. Anyway, I've really enjoyed catching up on your progress. Keep the videos coming.
Ryan
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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thanks!
Yeah I've been slacking lately, the modified needed some attention before the first race that is in 2 weeks. I should be back on track with the GN by the beginning of May.
I have some videos shot, but I havent had time to edit them. (hydroboost installation)
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Alright, I'm still editing the hydroboost installation video, but I did take time to do a little work today and shoot some video. Installing new rear arms, and getting ready for the driveshaft/trans to get buttoned up in the next video.
https://youtu.be/DEzQbQR8ASA
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Highway Stars headliner was a really good fit, no screwing around (astroroof=tricky)
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I'm slacking on videos, I know... I have 2 shot but not edited and uploaded...
Anyhow, where does the ground cable from the battery go? I forgot to label it, and I thought it was someplace obvious... but its not appearing to me right away. thanks in advance.
I'm getting close now, hot side of the exhaust is complete, mini starter is in, a/c condenser is swapped. I ported the wastegate hole on the garrett .63 housing, and aligned it with the oversized puck on the RJC pipe. I'm hoping this mod will help control the boost and minimize boost creep, since the cross sectional area of this port is now significantly larger. I'm getting ready to take the bumper off for the intercooler install this week. Then I need to order the next round of stuff, (fans, sway bar, translator) and we should be ready to fire and start road testing.
Unfortunately I'm still waiting on my 3" crossover exhaust from RJC, so I'll likely have to rig something up to get it on the road for now. That means it will be loud and annoying for a while, I fear.
In case anyone is interested, here is a side by side of my old THDP and the new RJC DP. oh snap! I just realized I forgot to weld the WB02 bung in the DP... well that's gotta come back off.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1dnryrKjf5k/VX7ewuspd9I/AAAAAAAADPE/DOkW9Bc9AQM/w809-h455-no/2015-06-15.jpg (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1dnryrKjf5k/VX7ewuspd9I/AAAAAAAADPE/DOkW9Bc9AQM/w809-h455-no/2015-06-15.jpg)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2jZyA-QoNDw/VX7ewg_gsgI/AAAAAAAADPE/cfeA9aQgNSY/w809-h455-no/2015-06-15.jpg (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2jZyA-QoNDw/VX7ewg_gsgI/AAAAAAAADPE/cfeA9aQgNSY/w809-h455-no/2015-06-15.jpg)
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ko-ZMLiModg/VX8JJpt2ClI/AAAAAAAADRA/pHOUzG3OVas/w649-h365-no/buickonground.jpg)
First time on the ground this year... new shocks all around, new rear control arms, no more airbags
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last week's video: https://youtu.be/7ppF1XEm4Q8
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IIRC the battery ground strap goes to the PS front side of the block. Make certain there is a clean, paint and rust free, surface for the cable. Otherwise you are going to have a serious amount of electrical issues.
EDIT: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/battery-ground-location.405183/ (http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/battery-ground-location.405183/) Yup right around/on the turbo support bracket.
I also recommend running some additional grounds between the block, body, and chassis.
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Thanks
I searched like crazy and couldnt find that thread. Anyhow, that was where I supposed it went just based on the length and size, but I wanted to make sure. I have a strap on the back of the driver side head to the body, but I was thinking about running one from the engine to the frame somewhere too.
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Lowest bolt hole for the turbo J bracket on the block. All that I have seen have been sandwiched between the block and the J bracket.
Looks like Mike beat me to it. Thanks for the shout out in your vid! I spoke with Jason the other day and he said he's still about 4 weeks out on the exhaust. I was hoping to get that same exhaust as well.... Looking good with the build!
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Thank YOU for picking up that wire loom for me! I have the actuator on the turbo, I just welded it to the compressor clamp. About to go install the FMIC right meow.
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finally got over the hump on a lot of things. I had to put someone on blast too, some of these jokers on the other board are ridiculous.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaJPdSpsMMg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaJPdSpsMMg)
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Gavin, I used a 3/4" Champion spacer to clearance the two pipes...and I use stock engine mounts with the RJC engine brace.
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Top of my up pipe rubbed the hood insulator with both HR engine mounts and a precision stretched SLIC. I removed the passenger side engine mount and went with a stock one there. Then put in an HR poly tranny mount. No rubbing after that.
LT1 MAF measures almost 3 1/4 on the outside diameter. Have to stretch a 3 inch coupler to fit it but it will go on.
I did the exact same thing with the actuator by welding it to the existing clamp on a TE44. It appeared to line up well in the vid
Should have stayed on the dudes screen name a little longer in the vid. Did you blast him on a feedback thread?
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So you can only get a parallel flow part that can't be flushed should the compressor kak?
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Top of my up pipe rubbed the hood insulator with both HR engine mounts and a precision stretched SLIC. I removed the passenger side engine mount and went with a stock one there. Then put in an HR poly tranny mount. No rubbing after that.
LT1 MAF measures almost 3 1/4 on the outside diameter. Have to stretch a 3 inch coupler to fit it but it will go on.
I did the exact same thing with the actuator by welding it to the existing clamp on a TE44. It appeared to line up well in the vid
Should have stayed on the dudes screen name a little longer in the vid. Did you blast him on a feedback thread?
OK, I already ordered the HR trans mount, we'll see how that works out, if not I'm going back to stock mounts. That would really suck after spending all that money on poly mounts.
I guess my cool air filter cone only works with the stock MAF then.
So you can only get a parallel flow part that can't be flushed should the compressor kak?
Sorry, I'm not picking up what you're putting down here.
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There are some real winners on the other board... approach with caution. I am running just the DS HR mount (Gen I from the initial run) and it works perfect.
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I probably didnt need the HR mounts, but my stockers were pretty worn out and oil soaked so I didnt want to mess with them.
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Is this plug from the EGR solenoid? I think it was what my old heated O2 was plugged into, but I cant remember.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZnrtVg8Ng2c/VZSKNSF39UI/AAAAAAAADSU/U7RqRI_1_6U/w983-h553-no/15%2B-%2B1)
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some finishing touches:
https://youtu.be/qyMyTSZbgDs
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That looks like the plug for the EGR. I haven't seen one in a long time. They are always hidden under the coil pack around here
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Erics shuts off the EGR via his chip. I tossed the EGR and the box.
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thats what I thought, GTG there... I need a grill spring and a jounce bumper though if anyone has either of those laying around I'll pay a fair price for them not to pay $15 for 2 + shipping from kirbans.
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I've got some grill springs. You want both or just one?
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I've got some grill springs. You want both or just one?
Nevermind.., Just started watching your VLOG. Just need the one. I'll get it out to ya tomorrow
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Found them
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Didn't make it to the post office yesterday. I'll try Monday
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Sorry, I was out of town the last few days. Thank you!! I'll be on the look out for stuff I can repay my debts with.
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wiring.... ick.
Before:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S6SgOixMw5w/VZvqUvIq_PI/AAAAAAAADUE/fnQQwHa0tXI/w900-h506-no/15%2B-%2B1)
During (moved alkycontrol mess to the glovebox, loomed all wires, loomed wires for linelock and gauges/switch panel, ditched scanmaster and TCC lockup switch):
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vHVqor-h-sM/VZvqQGFl2gI/AAAAAAAADTg/Qlref5qrKYA/w900-h506-no/15%2B-%2B1)
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It's getting there...
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almost done wiring, this takes a lot more patience than I typically can handle.
Anyhow, while cleaning up in the console and shifter. I came across this broken spring and weird c-clip.
Maybe these are clues to making my shifter button work again. but I dont see how exactly. I can see how the button is connected to the J-hook thing that controls detent and lockout in the shifter. Is it as simple as putting a spring on the bottom of the J-hook and through a hole above it? Then what is the c-clip thingy?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4Idg6M520e8/Vbu9Vp_r1oI/AAAAAAAADZk/DwIm6NeNjMw/w180-h320-no/15%2B-%2B1)
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Spring for ashtray lid?
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Dan and I had to replace the complete shifter assembly in mine back in the spring. There's one or more springs at the bottom. I wish I had of taken pics to show their location. The long white plastic rod is adjustable so the shifter button works correctly.
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usually they( plastic bits) are broken but g-body sells an aluminum replacement set
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I'm still not sure where that c-clip in the photo came from... or the little spring.
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I believe the c clip goes around the round bar that gives the detent feel on the gear placement and the spring attaches to the rod inside the shifter and the c clip. I had mine apart a few years ago and could be wrong. I do know that I went with the aluminum shifter guts after that.
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from glen
(http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-iehmm/products/789/images/1983/Shift_handle_GM_diagram__17615.1438887139.386.513.jpg)
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spring is from ashtray lid
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from glen
(http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-iehmm/products/789/images/1983/Shift_handle_GM_diagram__17615.1438887139.386.513.jpg)
thank you, it looks like #30 is the part that I'm missing. I dont see the ring anywhere on that diagram though... (Its not the one that holds the handle on)
I'll have to look at the ash tray lid a little closer, I didnt see anywhere for a spring to go at first glance.
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I've finally gotten around to putting more work in on the buick. This wiring is such a ball buster I have a hard time sticking with it. On the other hand, I have gotten:
the parking brake pedal back in
the RJC 3" crossover exhaust installed
the intercooler piping installed correctly
the headliner repaired (I forget if I had updated that or not yet)
I need to figure out where the connector for the turn signal stalk is, I'm sure some google-fu will find it...
I'm getting close though, remaining items:
WB02 installation
finish wiring the gadgets, powerlogger, WB02, etc
send the alky pump out for a rebuild before spring just to be safe....
and we should be ready to roll
I've got a lot of videos shot, I just havent had time to edit and upload...
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Damn, Gavin! You need to bring some of that energy down here and help me finish some of my projects!
Glad to see you are making progress :)
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How did you do in the exhaust in stall? That is the system I think I want. Jason I believe has one.
Can we get some pix and maybe a vid of how it sounds?
Thanx
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I hope to have a video up this week of the unboxing and installation.. . it (the video) didnt turn out very good just because of the lighting under the car.
It looks really good though.
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Glad to see you back! I subscribed to your YouTube channel and anxious to see what you've done.
Rich, I had that exhaust on the white T and will be putting that same exhaust on GG. It is basically a flow thru exhaust. Here's a link to the exhaust from Jason's website
http://rjcracing.com/product/exhaust-systems-2/ (http://rjcracing.com/product/exhaust-systems-2/)
Scroll to the bottom of the page and there's a vid
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Cool, we will expect an install thread and vid from you when you get to it then :D. Haha.
Just want an unbiased vid, not that I don't trust a seller but if they aren't selling me one I trust it as unbiased better, or something like that.
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I did have to make some alterations, and I recommend some welding.
I still have a lot of footage from the hydroboost install that needs to go up also.
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Looking forward to both. Welding should not be a problem though I will need to refill my cylinder.
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you want it... you got it!
https://youtu.be/M6qgrEsvKL8
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https://youtu.be/P1DQnnhRXms
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BTW, does anyone know where to find the connector for the turn signal stalk?
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The relays for the alarm in my limited were installed behind the drivers side kick panel. That may free up some space over there behind your glove box.
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thats not a bad idea! I've already loomed up a harness and extended all the wires, it just needs to find a home.
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Nice work! :cheers:
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Video Log is great! I too hate wiring so the end really put a smile on my face.
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oh man, I'm finally done with the wiring... connected the WB02, PL and all the interior is back together.
I finally got the brakes to bleed, I had a collapsed hose on the RF, I also put new drums on the rear because I didnt have a good way to measure the aluminum drums that I had. I figure if they are still good they wont go bad sitting on the shelf.
Anyhow, in the most anti-climactic way possible... I got a no start once I finished up last night. Fuel pressure looks a little low <30psi, I hadnt set the regulator yet. I also noticed the fuel pump wasnt as loud as I expected/remembered. I did get injector pulse on the noid light while cranking and I did spark... so I'm thinking its fuel related but ran out of time (energy) for more trouble shooting last night. (also didnt check batt voltage, but had the charger on it for a while)
It did sound like it stumbled or popped a little while cranking, maybe as if it was off time. Its been a long time since I put the cam sensor in, I'm pretty sure I got it in correctly, but I've made bigger mistakes.
Anyhow, I've got some troubleshootin g to do:
- double check plug wires
- check battery voltage
- check voltage at fuel pump (hotwire fuse maybe?)
- set fuel pressure regulator with fuel pump running by hotwiring the test plug (is there a better way?)
- replace fuel filter if 43psi cant be met (not sure what else to do)
- check cam sensor timing
- anything else I'm missing other than the obvious grounds and connections (though the pulse and spark makes me think I'm OK)
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Glad to hear you are making some progress even if there are a few obstacles. Here's a link to help with your no start issue:
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/no_start_tree.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/no_start_tree.htm)
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yup :cool;
Already printed it out to take it home. :cheers:
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sounds like the fuel pressure is too low to activate the injectors.
You can squirt some gas in the throttlebody and crank it up, I suspect...doub t it will keep running until you get the pressure up a bit
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ok, got the fuel pressure set by running the pump of the diag wire...
but something is off time, it chugs and stumbles... I'll check the cam and crank sensors..
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Yup, cam sensor was off, I must have put my mark at 25* BTDC instead of ATDC. Fired right up.
Now on to the next problems, trans cooler line adapter leaks at the trans case, and low oil pressure light is on.
I'll rig up a gauge to see what the actual oil pressure is. I did prime it with a drill, though that was some time ago. As a result (I hope) the lifters are SUPER noisy, that has me really concerned.
I took apart the trans cooler lines, and the brass adapter looks ok, I wasnt sure what to expect. It doesnt look like it seals on the threads but rather the slightly conical shape of the seat. Anyone have advise for these things? Is there supposed to be a crush washer?
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No crush washer, probably just need to "massage" the line around to give it a better straight shot to get the line seated well.
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its definitely leaking between the case and the adapter, not between the line and the adapter.
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I'm guessing the pump was packed with vaseline or something to get it to prime. I don't know how long it sat but I soak lifters in some stp treatment after disassembly, cleanout and reassembly of the lifter . Some break in lube on the cam . I know you have your own "tricks" with your race engines. The lifters might just be dry. Have you broken in the cam? Maybe pull the cam sensor and spin it with the drill with a vc off to make sure it is pulling oil up. If not repack the pump and try again. It at least that's what I would do.
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its definitely leaking between the case and the adapter, not between the line and the adapter.
In that case, pull the fitting wrap it in Teflon tape(I like three turns, no less, no more haha I used to do fire sprinkers and wrapped a sprinkler head or two in my time) and reassemble. Or some rector seal #5 if you like paste. Or maybe you have some fancy stuff in your race box.
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Usually loctite 577 is what I use, but I'm not afraid to use tape.
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Tape just looks tacky, but it is what I know. I'll have to look up what locktite 577 is. I use a lot of the blue locktite. I used to get it in the little single use packets working in the oil field. I have a bunch of em as every setting tool came with it and a frac ball. I got a bunch of balls too, or can I say that? Haha my humor might not come across well on the interwebz.
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I'm guessing the pump was packed with vaseline or something to get it to prime. I don't know how long it sat but I soak lifters in some stp treatment after disassembly, cleanout and reassembly of the lifter . Some break in lube on the cam . I know you have your own "tricks" with your race engines. The lifters might just be dry. Have you broken in the cam? Maybe pull the cam sensor and spin it with the drill with a vc off to make sure it is pulling oil up. If not repack the pump and try again. It at least that's what I would do.
Lifters and cam are all new, and were soaked, also primed the engine with a drill motor, checked at the turbo line for oil pumping. That's not in the upper end circuit though. I hadnt run it with a valve cover off to see if oil is coming up through the pushrods, thats an idea. Also hadn't broken in the cam yet, between the noise and the oil light I wasnt going to let it run for 30minutes until I verified that I have oil pressure.
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Yeah, good call to shut her down and verify.
What about the "plugs" behind the upper timing gear? Did you thread em and such or use driven plugs? Could be restricting flow.
But if you are getting a low oil light that sender is right at the pump is that where yours is?
How much clearance did that pump/gears have? Might have to pull it apart and plastigauge it to see.
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the light comes on at 4 psi so, along with noisy lifters, you definitely have a problem, it would seem. Did it go out when you primed it with the drill?
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It's been over a year since I've been in there... but don't think I touch those plugs, shortblock stayed together. I did put a new set of pump gears in and resurface the oil filter adapter. I forget the measured clearance. I dont recall the pressure relief spring setting either... so I might have to look into that.
Yeah sender is right at the block near the pump, on the T to the turbo. I'm going to pull the sender out and screw in a fitting to run a mechanical gauge. I'll run it with a drill motor and check pressure before I fire it back up.
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It did lose prime, ran it with a drill and it wasnt picking up any load. So I pulled the oil cooler lines, filled them by hand, and ran it again. After a good 30sec or so it finally started to pump. And I confirmed that the light goes out when I key up the ignition.
SO that is all good, I suspect that what happened is that it lost prime when I installed the oil cooler adapter. I had it primed on the engine stand, but never verified once it went into the car.
I also found a leak at the oil cooler adapter to the oil pump, so I ordered a new o-ring for that. I'll pull the driver's side valve cover and look for oil while running the pump by hand before I put the cam sensor back in.
Getting closer though, wish I had more time to work on it, dang roundy round car hasn't been allowing that.
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Alrighty, leak at oil cooler solved with a new o-ring. Then re-primed the system and re-installed the cam sensor. Fired right up, lifters quieted down... 'tsallgood now. I ran it for 30minutes, the fans cycled on and off, idle seemed ok for a first run, fuel pressure stayed constant. It's time to start tuning, w00t!
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:atbeer:
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:cheers:
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decided to install the A/C parts that I bought: dryer, o-rings, orifice tube and fake R-12. I need to do some reading, but at first glance the mityvac doesnt seem to be able to really pull any vacuum on the system from the high pressure port. Maybe I'm not patient enough to pump long enough?
I dunno, I'm nervous, its my first time. Gathering reading materials.
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What kind of fake r12 did you get?
I'm kinda working on my ac too. What about hoses, using the originals?
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original hoses, I found the tell tale stain from the leak on the condenser.
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Glad for you that she's running with no oil leaks....
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anyone know where the latest powerlogger download is? The one on FTS website is like 5years old... is it right?
EDIT: just found a lot newer one on turbotweak forum
my PC doesnt have a CD rom drive, so the version that came with my powerlogger is useless.
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Can you swing it over to a thumb drive or does your computer not have a USB, what about one of those small chips like goes in your phone. Download on phone on micro chip and move to you device , or Maybe on your desktop or at a friends desktop that has a cdrom.
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All he has to do is download it to his computer from TT or whereever and execute the file. The program resides on his computer and he can reflash the PL unit in the car by connecting the usb cable to his computer
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Giggity, made the first test drive today. Running the turbotweak axis, I wanted to keep it simple and get the thing running while sorting out what the new combo wants. So far I'm pretty happy, it seems to be doing ok with the low load driving. I'll be getting the alky up and running next since everything seemed to be working correctly.
Now there was 1 little problem... after driving around for about 20minutes... the voltage light started to flicker. Measured with a voltmeter and got the same 11.6-11.8V at the battery and alternator as the powerlogger was seeing. It seems like the fans would have killed the battery if the alternator completely crapped out. I have another alternator I can swap out, and I also have an external regulator that I can put on the alternator to try it out. Does anyone know what signal I should look for out of the brown wire that goes to the alt?
It was really, really nice to have this car back on the road and driving, I cant believe how much time had passed.
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am I reading this right? a blown light bulb can cause the alt not to charge?
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/introduce-yourself-community/97267-alternator-not-charging-need-help.html (http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/introduce-yourself-community/97267-alternator-not-charging-need-help.html)
what in the actual F***?
I also noticed that the hood light all of a sudden stopped working. Bulb looks ok... bad ground somewhere?
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I will try to remember to measure one of mine tomorrow. I think GM says as low as 35 ohms and as high as around 400....I never measure the resistance of one of the little push in dash light bulbs.
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I will try to remember to measure one of mine tomorrow. I think GM says as low as 35 ohms and as high as around 400....I never measure the resistance of one of the little push in dash light bulbs.
so there is legitimately a light bulb that I need to replace?
I swear I'm losing my google fu all of a sudden.
EDIT: found it... and thanks for the clever response. :player:
So now I see that the light doubles to excite the alt on start up... the flickering bulb could be a bad connection. I'll order the caspers kit (or cobble my own) just to get testing and later get around to fixing the connections in the dash.
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The light bulb in the dash is the only bulb involved. It is flickering so it is not burned out. That bulb serves as resistance to drop the voltage a tad to avoid burning up the alternator . Some GM cars had a resistor paralleled across the bulb in case the bulb burned out. I've not seen one on a Regal but there might be some.
The question is this: Is the alternator bad, or does the bulb in the dash have a flaky connection to the pc mylar. If you want to find out, rig a jumper with a small bulb in the middle to act as resistance. Hook one end to the battery or back of the alternator post and the other end into the brown wire coming from the dash. When you turn the key on, this bulb should light up and burn steadily. When you start the car up, the light should go out and the alternator should be charging.
If the alternator is not charging, then you have a bum alternator.
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Here's the latest VLOG, but you guys already know all the gory details.
https://youtu.be/WjonfgKBQr0
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grrr, oil cooler line started leaking at the rad again.
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What's an oil cooler? I guess mine was a factory delete. :)
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Mine has that option too!
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Mines been deleted as well. Get the precision remote filter with turbo feed line. Mounts behind the passenger headlight and feeds the turbo filtered oil
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Whats the logic on deleting it? Just the reduction of leaks/threat of hose failure? I can only assume that the conditions that warranted the use of an oil cooler were driving patterns that I would not see (i.e. davis dam, extended hard track use, nurinburgring, etc) On the other hand, I already have the stuff and would hate to remove something that was required to protect the engine.
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Reduction of leaks is the big factor. If you must have a cooler, plumb one inline with the remote filter. Then again, that's another place for leaks
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One conversation that will never die, oil cooler discussions. :rofl:
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Finally got around to watching the video log. Car sounds and looks good!
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One conversation that will never die, oil cooler discussions. :rofl:
man I searched for one to get the scoop and couldnt find much... my bad.
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Steve...correc t me if I'm wrong...but doesn't Billy Anderson have several dozen 55 gallon drums full of oil cooler/adaptor lines. I prolly forgot to mention that I hand out IC fans to the neighbourhood kids as frisbees.
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Finally got around to watching the video log. Car sounds and looks good!
Got your grill spring in there too... :cheers:
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Nope, Brad, you are right. The cooler would probably be beneficial in the conditions that Gavin mentioned, or if you were continually hot lapping the car, but about all it does for the average guy is making the coolant run about ten degrees hotter.
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Gavin...nice work in the glovebox. :rock:
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Nope, Brad, you are right. The cooler would probably be beneficial in the conditions that Gavin mentioned, or if you were continually hot lapping the car, but about all it does for the average guy is making the coolant run about ten degrees hotter.
Since you probably use your car about the same as I do and in texas, I'll consider the oil cooler not required... and I've already deleted it. Tired of chasing oil puddles around already.
New problem is that I realized why the under hood light wasnt working, same reason the radio and dome lights werent working. Now to track down the short that is causing the blown fuse.
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Cig-Clk Antenna relay, AC control head, radio capacitor, security indicator, chime module, instrument cluster (digital), radio, cigar lighter, glove box lite, engine compartment lite, footwell courtesy lites, power door locks, dome lights, trunk lites, vanity mirror lites, BAT terminal. These circuits used an orange wire for power supply.
I'm getting old...but wasn't that usually the cigarette lighter socket that always caused that fuse to blow?
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Best thing I ever did was put a self resetting cct breaker in that fuse slot
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here's what I found, I've been unplugging things and poking around to look for the issue. So it looks like the headliner needs to come down to find the short. I forget, where is the harness that goes up to the roof with the dome light in it? I might unplug it as a field fix, I'll unplug the cig lighter also to see if that fixes it. I have continuity to ground at the vanity mirror plug also, so I fear the whole wiring up there is shorted to ground.
(https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13631430_10206597959767608_6395610927001135223_n.jpg?oh=5edd763162962ae5fa3770947df2a9e8&oe=57F1AB0B)
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I think it was the socket, itself, that was the problem on the lighter...mayb e not. Should be some posts on the forums about blowing this fuse
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There's a knack for getting that headliner out. Take your time...the backer board snaps real easy.
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yup, had to do it when the fabric got replaced.
EDIT: turns out the vanity mirror is shorting, took it apart and couldnt see any obvious arcing or anything. So we'll roll without any lights in that for now.
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Does anyone have an autometer electric fuel pressure gauge plumbed into your powerlogger? I want to make sure I'm doing this right. Watching the gauge I seem to be keeping up with boost, but in my data log it looks like I'm about 15psi fuel per 20psi boost. I'll change the fuel filter this weekend to play it safe, but I figured I better make sure that the data logger is set up correctly.
I didnt think to have the wife record video of the gauges with her phone, but just from watching I would guess its close.
AFRs in the 10-12 range, bringing the alky on around 5psi, and I have it set to run full pump current at 20psi. No KR, but I've got the timing pulled way back, only 15* at WOT. I'm trying to be conservative. :icon_redface:
I'm not really stumped or anything, but I'd be happy to take a second opinion on some logs just to make sure I'm not missing anything. Admittedly I've driven the car more in the last week than I had in the previous 7years. Man it feels good to have the car back out on the road!
:atbeer:
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Lately, I have seen a few good comments about the autometer gauge, but, I remember quite a few negative comments a few years ago.
Is it in agreement at idle?
Attach your logs and we can look at them :)
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Look at the offset voltage in the PL, you may need to adjust it. I always zeroed out my pressure transducers using the offset voltage; meaning you may have to bleed pressure off at the rail after going key-on. After that you can easily determine if pressure is going up 1:1.
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How does the power logger hook up to the autometer gauge? I'm guessing the gauge has a transducer and the powerlogger just piggybacks on that same transducer. Does it(the transducer) just screw into the end of the rail? Any pix of the setup? Thanx
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You run the signal wire from the transducer that screws into the end of the rail to the appropriate PL terminal. The transducer also has power and ground connections
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I saw where the pwr lgr had two inputs you can configure. I wondered if the one transducer was feeding data to both the gauge and the pwrlgr. Good stuff with motorhead zeroing out the transducer to correct an erroneous reading with residual pressure.
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Tap the signal wire to the gauge and run the tap to positions 4 or 5 on the analog block...
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Thats sort of what I figured, and I get 43psi at 43psi on the gauge... I'll check for the offset that Mike mentioned, but it would be super weird if those lines crossed right at 43psi. All good tests though.
:cheers:
I drove the car all the way to Warren for the employee car show today. Everything seems to have survived... need A/C in a bad bad way though.
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Anyone find a statement of accuracy on the autometer sender?
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like what is the tolerance band on the reported output? I've not seen one.
I've also not seen a better method to log fuel pressure. I am open to suggestions though! :chin:
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If I read you correctly, the autometer gauge appears correct but the PL output is lower?
Have you verified the gauge against a mechanical gauge?
Disconnect the feed from the autometer gauge and feed only PL with the signal from the transducer for the moment. Still read low? What battery voltage is PL reporting under boost?
Also look at the voltage being reported by PL and calculate the pressure yourself to see if you get what PL calculates
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Correct, BUT... I'm not 100% that the gauge is correct. It moves too fast for me to see it with absolute certainty, while driving.
I like the idea of checking the sender voltage and checking, I'll also go back and check battery voltage in the log.
I checked the gauges at idle with the vac hose off... so that would be a mechanical gauge at 43psi, power logger at 43psi, and the gauge at 43psi at the same time. I can only assume that isnt chance.
I'll shotgun it with a new fuel filter just out of principal.
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Do they all bleed down to 0, and at the same rate?
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You could plumb sender and mech gauge to compressed air and adjust the reg to confirm correlation.
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Unless the transducer has two outputs it may be corrupting the signal by having the PL listen to it; unless the gauge has its own I/O feeds.
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Interesting hypothesis. One would hope the sender and gauge designers did impedances correctly. A digital voltmeter across the sender should be able to verify if the PL loads the sender when attached.